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Factory Of Fun
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 17 ต.ค. 2011
I am here to share my love for making, designing, and building all the things. Mainly focusing on 3D modeling, 3D printing, prop making, and painting. We love creating something from nothing!
Labyrinth Pinball Topper - Goblin City Walls
In this fun video, I share how to make your very own topper for the amazing Labyrinth Pinball Machine. Inspired by scenes from the movie specifically the goblin city scene at the end. I will briefly break down how the model was made. I will 3d print the models, then prep, paint, and mount it on the game. Thank you to @BoFPinball for creating such an amazing game and nailing the theme!
Enjoy!
3D Models on MakerWorld: makerworld.com/en/models/628453#profileId-553104
Spray Paints Paints
Rustoleum Primer Filler: a.co/d/dKIMvB8
Army Painter Matte Black Primer: a.co/d/gHDJ9EI
Rustoleum Gray Primer: a.co/d/hxxlu0L
Rustoleum Matte White: a.co/d/3uwqx5B
Acrylic Paints
Citadel Agrax Earthshade: a.co/d/aHIfA4u
Army Painter Peachy Flesh: a.co/d/65gWjNo
FW Acrylic Ink Burnt Umber: a.co/d/aBxhmhq
Acrylic Medium flow additive for creating a wash: a.co/d/9uGQv2d
For the Wash: in a 2oz bottle add 10-15 drops of ink, and roughly 20 drops of the Acrylic Flow aid then add water, leaving a bit of room at the top of the bottle.
Chapters:
00:05 Intro
01:37 3D Model Overview
03:45 Sanding and prepping for paint
04:26 Priming the models
6:39 Painting with Wash's and contrast paint
7:34 Final Reveal
Enjoy!
3D Models on MakerWorld: makerworld.com/en/models/628453#profileId-553104
Spray Paints Paints
Rustoleum Primer Filler: a.co/d/dKIMvB8
Army Painter Matte Black Primer: a.co/d/gHDJ9EI
Rustoleum Gray Primer: a.co/d/hxxlu0L
Rustoleum Matte White: a.co/d/3uwqx5B
Acrylic Paints
Citadel Agrax Earthshade: a.co/d/aHIfA4u
Army Painter Peachy Flesh: a.co/d/65gWjNo
FW Acrylic Ink Burnt Umber: a.co/d/aBxhmhq
Acrylic Medium flow additive for creating a wash: a.co/d/9uGQv2d
For the Wash: in a 2oz bottle add 10-15 drops of ink, and roughly 20 drops of the Acrylic Flow aid then add water, leaving a bit of room at the top of the bottle.
Chapters:
00:05 Intro
01:37 3D Model Overview
03:45 Sanding and prepping for paint
04:26 Priming the models
6:39 Painting with Wash's and contrast paint
7:34 Final Reveal
มุมมอง: 469
วีดีโอ
DIY 3D Printed Fallout Vault-Tec Phone Dock
มุมมอง 2255 หลายเดือนก่อน
Using the power of 3D Printing, craft paints, and creative inspiration, we make our own Fallout Themed Phone Dock. This was heavily inspired by the awesome model on Thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/thing:1345070. Inspired by the existing design we re-created the phone dock from scratch, and made it even better! Plus we made 2 different versions! I hope you enjoy this and it inspires you to make...
3D Printed Jaws Barrel with Hidden Storage
มุมมอง 3736 หลายเดือนก่อน
In this video, we will make our very own iconic Jaws barrel from the movie, but with an added surprise. This barrel has a snap off top revealing hidden storage inside! We will paint, weather the paint using 2 paint chipping techniques, create our own acrylic wash, and add rope to make it look movie-accurate. 3D Files on Printables: www.printables.com/model/916594-jaws-barrel-storage-container M...
Lets make a Fallout Vault Tec Inspired Ammo Can
มุมมอง 1136 หลายเดือนก่อน
Another fun tutorial from the Wasteland. In this video, we will create some custom-designed artwork to use as stencils that we will then spray paint to give an ammo bin that Vault-Tec touch. Links and Materials: Metal Ammo Bin: a.co/d/bVhekZg Golden Sunset Spray Paint: a.co/d/eE2lFx5 Removable Vinyl: a.co/d/4IlBRTX Cricut Vinyl Cutter: a.co/d/8RhKSjK Artwork: www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/jse4anqejft2...
3D Printing for practical every day solutions
มุมมอง 1536 หลายเดือนก่อน
In this video, we dive into how to use CAD software with a 3D printer to solve everyday problems creatively. Now this is just one simple example, but you can imagine how this concept could expand to several use cases. The sky is the limit! If this was helpful please give a like and consider subscribing. Thank you My gear: Bambu X1 Carbon: bambulab.com/en/a1 Bambu A1: bambulab.com/en/a1 Caliper:...
DIY Fallout 3D Light Box
มุมมอง 9K6 หลายเดือนก่อน
Embrace the wasteland with this end-to-end walkthrough showing you how to make your very own 3D Fallout Lightbox. Link to the 3D files on Printables: www.printables.com/model/878436-fallout-logo-3d-light-box-marquee Materials: Model Masters Rust RF Paint: a.co/d/2y59Yv3 Addressable LEDS: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088B85G38/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 Bluetooth LED Controller...
Fix that terrible squeak in your Bambu X1 or P1P
มุมมอง 12K8 หลายเดือนก่อน
Is your Bambu X1 or P1P making a terrible squeaking noise when the bed moves up and down? Look no further this simple trick will save your ears. All that is needed is a very light amount of synthetic (not silicon) grease on the upper edge of the belt - or the pulley - on the bottom of the machine. Super Lube is one of many products that could be used. Just ensure it's rubber-safe.
Fusion 360 Threads for 3d Printing
มุมมอง 2.9K8 หลายเดือนก่อน
Let's look at a few ways to create Threaded objects for 3D printing. Specifically how to use the built-in thread tool and the coil tool to make your own custom threads. 00:00 Intro and overview 03:22 Basic Sketches and Extrusions 05:20 Section Analysis 05:57 Thread tool 07:34 Coil Tool 14:56 Tweaking a Coil 20:49 3D Prints
Restored Sega Baywatch Pinball Macine
มุมมอง 9279 หลายเดือนก่อน
This is an overview of a 1995 Sega Baywatch that was very recently restored. If you are interested in the LED driver mod it is called the Energi Maestro an can be found on Pinside here: pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/led-gi-smoother-for-data-east 00:00 Intro 00:35 Playfield 02:30 Cabinet 04:24 Cabinet Interior 06:33 Backbox and boards
Analogue Pocket shockproof Hard Case
มุมมอง 28910 หลายเดือนก่อน
In this video we share examples of our Analogue Pocket shockproof, padded hard case. This case holds an Analogue Pocket Plus 4 Gameboy Advance games, or 2 Gameboy games, or a mix of both. You can also have a game in the back of the pocket as well. The interior is foam and a custom TPU (rubber) insert to hold the games and the pocket. If you are interested in purchasing one you can find them on ...
Fusion 360 3D Marquee for 3D Printing
มุมมอง 3.9Kปีที่แล้ว
Welcome to another Fusion 360 Modelling tutorial for 3D printing. In this video, we will work with Fusion 360 starting with creating a sketch based off of and SVG. We will walk through importing and SVG as a sketch, adding offsets to the sketch, creating extrusions, and finally creating our bodies for 3d Printing. We will sum it up in Bambu studio where we will prep and slice the model bodies f...
Bambu X1 Carbon Terrible "Squeaking" Noise SOLVED!
มุมมอง 23Kปีที่แล้ว
SEE how-to video here: th-cam.com/video/isLn3LPubrU/w-d-xo.html It ended up being the Z-Axis Belt on the bottom of the machine rubbing against the upper lip of the idler pulley. Added a very subtle amount of grease to the edge of the belt. All is good. Having an issue with my 1-month-old Bambu x1. I am getting a terrible Screetching noise that I have isolated - I think - to the back lead screw....
Installing LED's in 3D printed Light Displays
มุมมอง 2.7Kปีที่แล้ว
Installing LED's in 3D printed Light Displays
Fusion 360 Modeling for flat multi color 3D Prints
มุมมอง 9Kปีที่แล้ว
Fusion 360 Modeling for flat multi color 3D Prints
How to Fix First Layer Gaps in Bambu Studio
มุมมอง 10Kปีที่แล้ว
How to Fix First Layer Gaps in Bambu Studio
Bally Creature from the Black Lagoon Restoration HD 1080p
มุมมอง 2.8K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Bally Creature from the Black Lagoon Restoration HD 1080p
Tales of the Arabian nights Bed of Nails Mod
มุมมอง 1362 ปีที่แล้ว
Tales of the Arabian nights Bed of Nails Mod
Custom Tales of the Arabian Nights pinball topper
มุมมอง 2132 ปีที่แล้ว
Custom Tales of the Arabian Nights pinball topper
Is there a recommendation for belt tension on the z axis?
Watched your first video. Thanks for creating the second video explaining how to solve the issue. I’ve had my X1C for about a month and I have the same noise. Same story.
yeah,..man:)👍
thank you!
very cool pins you have :-) I have the same printer and almost the same pins, most from the WPC and WPC95 area, but I'm mising such a nice looking TotAN you have, thank you for supporting the community with this video.
thank you work out good no more squeeeeeek
QUICK TIPS... 1) PREVENT "DISAPPEARING SKETCH": DISABLE 'Preferences > Design: Auto hide sketch on feature creation'. 2) 'TRIM' BODY (top/bottom, 10:48): 'Extrude(INTERSECT)' (using single 'rectangle').
Hi, maybe I missed this, but is it legal to sell this Fallout thing you did?
Thank you for your question. No please do not sell the files or the finished products. On maker world and printable you will find it states this as well. Cheers
Hello, thanks for your video. What PLA you use to clear layer? Thanks
Had the same noise on my P1S… thanks for pointing me in the right direction. It was the z-belt
I just started a print with something on the bed. 😢 started getting this noise. Ugh. Gonna have to look at it I guess
Thank you, P1S squeak gone!
I was going crazy with this squeaking, oiled everything I could multiple times, and didn't even know this existed. Zero info on wiki. Thanks a lot! your video made my day
Thanks for introducing the Bluetooth modules to me - and I like that rusty paint. I've done my rust just with standard acryllics.
This is awesome and looks fantastic! @WalterBranning great model! @tha_factory_of_fun your painting skills are fire🔥🔥 I Immediately thought that the vault door would have a wireless charger built into it. Possible design change....just sayin..
Great idea!! I think you are onto something
no GOOD - too much overhand at 90 degrees.
Are you saying there is too much overhang? Not true, as long as any edge angle is no more than (roughly) 45 degrees perpendicular to the build plate, it will print fine as these did.
@@tha_factory_of_fun That's not a 45 bro.
@@GeorgeGraves Im going to help you out here. There are plenty of 45 degree angles in both models However, there are small regions that are not 45 in the rounded example. So why does this still print perfectly fine? It is because 3D printers have the magic ability to bridge my friend. I think in order to not mislead folks we would have to get into overhangs, nozzle sizes and bridges. Again these models are perfectly fine. Thanks for the comments
Maybe consider designing a model that articulates a solution to your concern and share it with the community? That would be great!
@@tha_factory_of_fun Your attempt as "engagement" is cringe.
That works - thanks! Oddly they don't mention that squeaky pulley in their maintenance guide...
Looks rad! Great tutorial on this. Love this kind of content! Keep it going! Thank you!
Nice! The colors really match well when you see it on the game.
Can I find the STL for 3 start thread ?
Hi there, which model are you referring to? Sorry, I am a little confused. Either way I can probably share the STL
@@tha_factory_of_fun Thanks for replay, Im looking for 3 start thread I found on google, 1 thread & 2 thread, 4 thread and 6 thread but the triple one I couldn't find it
many thanks man! it drove me crazy! now it is silent and calm
Thank you legend.
Thank you! I was just about to tear the whole thing apart. that noise was driving me crazy! I owe you a beer good Sir 🍻
Sick 😎
Having tried making my first lightbox in 360 just yesterday, seeing this is super impressive.
Thank you so much for watching I hope it helped
This is next level! do you take commissions? I would love to print a box like this but of my unit patch. let me know if you can help me out and design a box in this style for my unit. Thanks
Perfect! Thanks so much fixed my squeak cause of this 😊
Fusion no longer adds tolerances to threads automatically. Machinist and CAM shops complained that they no longer met specs, so Autodesk removed the auto tolerance feature. Apparently they have a lot more paying machinist and CAM users than they have paying hobbies to who do 3D printing.
I am glad you liked the original, and love the improvements you made to the design! The extra details really add to it especially the radiating supports (don't know why I didn't think of that) and the base really did need to be a little thicker.
Your model was awesome!! It was a key inspiration to this, and I owe a ton of the design to you. Thank you!
Thanks so much! This solved my problem! My issue was the front left pulley on the bottom of the printer was rubbing against the belt. I added a tiny amiunt of grease to the upper lip of the belt, hit home for alignment and the squeaking was gone!
Way too long tutorial to make a thread imo in shapr3d it is very easy to make a thread with a profile using the revolve tool since it has a linear movement function/option you just define pitch with the linear and rotation with the revolve degrees. It can be as fast as making any profile thread in like a minute basically or less. I have been finding fusion 360 much more troublesome to learn but it also has the bugs like shapr3d but more I would say and actions you want to do are locked behind more knowledge that takes more trying the software to understand. Even something as simple as moving an object does not work for me sometimes and I still dont know why. There are like 10 options for moving an object which also makes it kind of confusing, like they did not need to include the rotate option separately in the movement of objects or sketches it would have been enough to just have the handles on the screen for moving rotating and moving the pivot and so on.
Ese sonido me tenia loco desde la segunda semana de la usar la bambu nueva y empeoraba cada dia, muchas gracias la solucion fue acetada GRACIASSSSSSS
I actually just made a phone dock myself out of a bunch of desk clutter. I used a laser cutter with birch plywood instead of a 3d printer though. I took an old goose neck lamp, tore the lamp off, added an RGB pc fan where the old light was on top of the goose neck. the base is a hexagon, with a USB C port in the top, with some LED circiutry effects on the top. 3 of the sides have functions as well. 1 side is a 110v wall outlet, one side is a 4 port USB PD hub, and the front is the phone dock, which has a lever and button mechanism that turns on RGB strips on each side of the phone to show its charging when its plugged in. There are also 2 buttons and 2 knobs. the 2 buttons control the led presets, and turn off the lights (respectively) the one knob controls the fan speed, and the other knob is actually 2 knobs stacked together, one controlling the led brightness, and the other controlling the current presets palette. All the LEDs are controlled via an ESP32 running WLED. You might want to look into adding LED's to your projects using WLED (which is free) using a $5 ESP32 microcontroller. You don't really need to know anything about coding or electronics to set it all up. It's very DIY'er friendly.
wow that sounds like an amazing project! Do you have any photos up anywhere? YES I use ESP-32's all the time with wled love em'! Thank you for watching
@@tha_factory_of_fun I posted a link just this morning in the WLED subreddit
In the official bambu lab doc, they say : DO NOT add grease to the belts as this might generate a belt slip or a layer shift What do you think, did you have experienced a printing problem after your maintenance?
I know its truly ironic as this solution was literally sent to me from a Bambu Rep. I think to be fair if they said grease can be used, people could end up using the wrong grease, too much grease, etc.. As I mentioned we are talking about a bb-sized amount very very little. I have had zero issues
@@tha_factory_of_fun which one you used?
The grease has to be added to the *back* of the belt, not the front. The affected bearing is in contact only with the back of the belt. Alternatively you can put lube on the bearing directly. It doesn't matter a lot which you do, since they will rub together during operation and spread it anyway.
Why does my X1C keep squeaking after doing this?
I love you videos. I know a guy that is just like you it’s unreal! Keep up the great work.
Thank you so much for the kind words, and thank you so much for watching
Very funny. And what a great build!
Confirmed! I had exactly the same squeaking noise, so I applied a VERY small amount (about half the size of a grain or rice) of Super Lube 21030 to the top edge of the Z belt near the idler pulley. Problem solved.
Never thought of using a Cricut like that! The paint came out real clean!
Thank you for watching! Yes, Cricuts - and vinyl cutters - are awesome for stencils.
Great !
You need more subs man !
Thanks buddy I’m trying. Just getting started. Any tips?
Just consistency I guess, you make pretty good videos I learned how to make the letter boxes from you !
Is there any way i can purchase one of these units. with or without leds?
Yes I actually only have one and it’s fully built if you are interested it’s on my Etsy.
@@tha_factory_of_fun will order in next few weeks. thankyou
amazing job!
Thank you so much for watching
Great Work Man !
Very much appreciated. Thank you for watching
Thank You👍 - have seen a few videos about this issue which apparently affects the P1P, P1S and X1. This is the best (and the shortest). Also noticed some rubber scuff marks on your printer around 1:27. Looks like it could cause some wear on the bottom belt so keen to get your view on that. Personally find it concerning that these pulleys and belts are quite exposed and could be damaged if anything got jammed between the bottom of the printer and the bench it is sitting on. Think my issue may have started after moving the printer on the bench to access the spool holder at the back - possibly misaligning that lower belt?
Same problem. Solved. Thanks!
So coooool love it
Thank you!
Nice collection I have Austin powers, Johnny pneumonic, Houdini, World Cup soccer at my house. We should hang out!
Grease the pulley, not the belt.