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@@hakata888 no unfortunately I still have a light humming noise, not really sure what it is. Haven’t had any issues though

@@briankent1922 I used the 300 clutch basket in my build, so I only have an extra primary gear I believe. should be able to source the parts on eBay for a decent price

@@skipper6160 ok thanks

@@Dariopaz-m6h rear stamp? Not sure what you are referring to…

@@cjgamer755 definitely a blast, whole weekend was an awesome time

@@themanuel111 I don’t have any grinding or bad sounds at this point, but these g2 diffs are notorious for crap bearings/gear mesh from the factory

@@skipper6160 before you got it fixed were there any noise when decelerating?

@@themanuel111 no, no noises, if you have audible noises on decel you have a bigger issue than just a seal. Confirm that it’s the diff and not just cvt noise before you pull it all apart

@@skipper6160 on my Atv model I’ve heard most issues are bearings since the seal breaks down and debris from it goes into the bearing making it act up also moving around. It doesn’t struggle to run or anything it’s just noise

@@justin_steen I have definitely considered adding a drain bung in case of any swamping incidents lol

So mine is a frame conversion. We took a 05 CCSB rollover and cut the super duty frame down to fit the bronco body. So everything underneath is 05 F250. I believe we cut about 3 feet from the center section of the frame. Biggest things are shortening the driveshaft, fuel tank, moving body mounts on the frame, modified firewall, and modified the front rad support to accept the 6.0 intercooler and rad. Driveshaft ended up being super short, had to order a custom shaft from Tom woods with a double cardan at the top. Modified the bronco fuel tank to accept the 6.0 sending unit. Used the bottom half of the 6.0 core support up front. And obviously all rear lines had to be shortened. We kept the bronco dash and heater box, so no A/C, just defrost heat bc we modified the firewall so much. And then wiring to the bronco ignition and putting the 6.0 cluster in the bronco dash. We also took the 6.0 4x4 switch and mounted it in the bronco dash. Hopefully this helps, I’m sure I’m forgetting some stuff. It’s a big endeavor

Also if I remember correctly the driver side of the fire wall we swapped directly in from the 6.0, so that we could mount the pedals and master cylinder up directly. I think we modified the 6.0 steering shaft as well, since it still has the bronco steering column on the inside.

This mod in addition to adjusting the shifter definitely helped a lot, I’d recommend doing both on any g2 machine. I think a lot of the dealers do a crappy job setting these machines up before they sell them resulting in bad shift lever adjustment

@skipper6160 thanks for the reply. You got a new subscriber Today

It’s a major PITA. Basically just gotta take it one turn at a time with a regular ole combination wrench, but you’ll get it!

I can't decide where to go RVS or motor I have can am outlander 1000r xxc 2022 did you try the RVS tune

@@mataralmuhairi2402 Go with Rvs you'll get 10 horsepower to the wheels. Motor sports addicts only around 6. Yes I have the RVS stage 3 on tune on my 2023 Scrambler xp 1000 S it's a whole different animal now.

Yessir, was able to clear it with my PV3 tuner once I got it

Actually it’s the rear but on newer models they got rid of the wear ring

Aside from my slip on, my machine is completely stock, and it definitely woke it up a bit with the custom tune. How many miles are on your machine? As crazy as it sounds my wheeler didn’t really feel like it came alive until around 4-500 miles were on it.

Mine has 411 miles 25 hours lol

@@kgrant2317 huh, definitely should be broke in by now. Anyways if you plan on keeping the machine and putting some miles on it I’d definitely recommend throwing a tune on it 👍

According to Partzilla the bearing p/n is the same from the 850 to the 570, so yes it should fit

On this particular cylinder I believe you could rotate that elbow any direction you want although I wouldn’t recommend angling it too far downward as the reservoir may have a hard time getting the fluid to the cylinder. I am not familiar with that bike tho

I have the same problem, the elbow is sticking, can't turn it. Did you said youbuse penetrating oil? Which one?

Pretty sure both the mount and the spring were Amazon specials

@@skipper6160 any idea how big that mount is I am wanting to order one for my bike, but I'm 2k miles away from it

Secondary is supposed to spin in park and neutral by design, the resistance of the one way allows the secondary to spin with the primary, which reduces belt wear, one way bearing wear, and also allows for easier shifting into gear which was the point of my previous video. When sitting still in gear is when the one way comes into play to allow the primary to spin independent of the belt while the secondary doesn’t move since it is now mechanically locked to the wheels. As long as you don’t have creep in gear, which I don’t, everything is all good. For what it’s worth I do have an OG maverick belt instead of the original belt which is supposed to be marginally thicker than the original.

If I had to do it all over again, I probably would just have bought 30s and floorboards. The 28s pull great and are definitely trail-able, but I find it likes to get high centered on the a arms too much and I would like the extra ground clearance. I think the stock clutches wouldn’t really have any problems with the 30” aztex either

@Skipper wonderful I've got the dalton kit already so Aztec 30s might be a good fit it's also a 650 max so the extra size may help as well..

I run the same wheels as well.. love the beadlocks

I think I used our 1/2” IR air impact to get it off, may need to find a buddy with a Milwaukee 1/2” if it’s really on there. That or try turning your regulator on your compressor up, sometimes you can get a little more oomph that way

I smeared it all around the inside of the one way helix, basically you want the grease where the little pins ride on the inside, but definitely not on the outside

Glad I’m not the only one 😂. So far I definitely enjoyed the tune it totally rips. I do have one gripe which is it seems to cold start much harder, but after about a minute of running she’s cherry

Glad it helped!

You are absolutely right, I ended up looking up that clip after the fact and realized it was all good 👍

Currently I do not, servicing the one way seemed to help a bit but it’s still there when I’m in park or neutral. Maybe in the next few days I can grab a video update, because the shifting actually improved a lot

@@skipper6160 i ended up finding the source of the noise after commenting last night. The exhaust gasket where my front header connects to the cat was leaking

​@@skipper6160 hey man mine has the same issue. Dealer said they regreased them (when they should be replaced) and took out the friction washer, and now it still chirps and shifts way worse then before I brought it in. Did you find the total cause of the chirping sound, and do you think that removing that friction washer would make shifting harder. Thanks hope you're doing well

@@tylermcbride2807 I personally haven’t experimented with taking the friction washer out, I’ve always just left it in. I can’t imagine the washer would have much of an impact on shifting versus the bearings. I also have re-greased the one-way mechanism a couple times now after the new bearings and still have a light squeak at idle. If you have a chirp on engagement that’s a bigger deal imo