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Hi there. If the car is overheating, it's less likely to be the heater control Valve. This would only affect the cabin heating system. I would suggest you check the thermostat unit first as the thermostat/waterpump unit is made of plastic and are common to fail. Also the blend doors are a known common fault also, these will affect the cabin temp control also. But the heater control valve is usually located under the dash, within the HVAC box. Hope this helps!

@@AutisticCarGuy-OriginCustoms thanks but i already changed the water pump. Now no coolant leak. It is bubbbling inside the reservoir bottle if i drive past 10kms. Then overheats. The inside the room heater not working either. I guess a combination of different problems. 750$ already disappeared from pocket for water pump... Nnow gonna do it by self to save some money 😆

@mtano3 If its bubbling in the coolant reservoir, im afraid that you likely have a head gasket failure. Get a head gasket test kit, they are very cheap and will give you a good idea if the head gasket has failed or not

@@AutisticCarGuy-OriginCustoms yes i will try that👌🏻

I really appreciate your support! Plenty more to come, I assure you!!

Hi there. I use a paid system called Autodata. It has all factory specs and procedures

Thank you for your comment!

Yeppp, it sure was

Yep, it's part of the performance pack

Thank you for your feedback. Hope the video helps!

It a very badly "rebuilt" unit, from a Vauxhall Vivaro 1.6 cdti van

I was too, somehow the headlight housing was perfect, and all the wiring was tested and not a single issue

A good guess. Unfortunately it's England, in Winter. So definitely no sun! Was also a pretty new bulb

Who?

You and me both bud 😂

Same lol

At this point. Haven't we all...

Thank you Kelly! More coming very soon! Xx

Yeah... that definitely does not sound good at all. Maybe a large dose of JB Weld for good measure?

Hi Adam, that does very much sound like the cam cover seal, it's very cheap and easy to do, especially on this car, so worth doing anyway

Thanks for the reply....I also think the water pump is a bit on the noisy side too. The car is in great condition otherwise and only done 85K. I can see you know what youre doing , so are these jobs something you would consider doing for me? I've lost faith in my garage as they way overfilled my oil on a standard service (by an inch) and that's what caused the oil leak I believe. Hope you don't mind me asking. Thanks Adam @@AutisticCarGuy-OriginCustoms

@adamharland7716 It's tricky to say if I'm honest. It's more about if YOU feel confident in doing it. This car is definitely on the easy end of the spectrum. But when messing with cam chains and head bolt torque sequences. It's possible you can, but take your time, don't rush anything

Hi there. There likelihood is that you have a head gasket, Thermostat or blocked radiator issue. Have you confirmed that the radiator fans actually come on correctly? Thermostats are a common issue on this gen Audi A3. A sniff test is not totally accurate unfortunately, so it may be that you have a head gasket issue. So check gans working correctly. Then Thermostat. Radiator flow check. Finally water pump and head gasket

You are best trying the typical bleeding process. Fill the cooling system with Max line. Then with heater on full heat and full blower speed. Run until the coolant has hit the 90 degrees Celsius mark, (until thermostat had opened). Then running until there is no further bubbles coming to the top of the reservoir. Once this has happened. If your air is starting to feel warm inside the car. Put the cap back on the coolant reservoir, then go for a 15/20 minute drive. Let the engine cool down, then open the coolant cap, if the level has dropped, top up until the Max level again

Unfortunately you likely have internal failure. If its only when you engage 5th gear, it will probably be the synchros or the bearings on that end of the transmission

@@AutisticCarGuy-OriginCustoms I just thought I would update you on my gearbox issue. I took it to a few garages and they all came up with different things it could be and some of the prices I was quoted ranged £1000 to £1500!!.so I eventually found a garage who took the job on and they basically gave the gearbox a new clutch and overall replaced other bits and pieces in their and got me back on the road for £500. They look after my car now for anything else it needs. My advice is to shop around and look for good reviews on garage services.

Hi, thank you for this. Definitely worth replacing the thermostat, as they are cheap and generally easy. If you don't have an obvious coolant leak, its quite possible you have the oil cooler, or headgasket failing, as this can also cause the heating to not work

@@AutisticCarGuy-OriginCustomsi have 2.0tdi im experiencing same problems coolant keeps going down within a day and heating doesnt blow warm the garage said its all down to the heater matrix is that the case or would it be two problems?

@@jefferyposnan9543 Hi there. Do you have a sweet smell inside the cabin when the engine warms up? If so, you likely have a leaking heater matrix. Other possibilities could be a leak in your coolant hosing somewhere. Or a failed/failing head gasket

I apologise. I was not active on TH-cam during this time. I hope you managed to get this problem solved

Hi there, thank you for the comment. To help you better, where are you based and what level of rebuild your after?

It's a 2004 VW Polo 1.4 auto Reg. No, LL04 DBY Auto BKY engine code. It;s covered 112,000miles and we have owned it from new. The engine sounded tappety at 46,000 miles, took it to VW who said it was ok. Took it back at 71,000 miles as engine noise was loader. Again they turned me away. Its now 112k and its very tappety. So, we are looking to rebuild the engine and to do whatever it needs, as we intend to keep it.@@AutisticCarGuy-OriginCustoms

We are in Hendon London NW4

@yutpx That is totally understandable. I would be more than happy to perform this work, I am based in Suffolk though. If you are happy to deliver the car here, or I could arrange collection to mine. Otherwise, I do not know any good ones in your local area im afraid

Apologies for the late reply, I hope you managed to get this sorted? Did you back flush it? It could be a number of issues from the heater core being too blocked and needing replacing. To the cooling system having a leak.

Definitely worth changing the thermostat if it won't reach 90. It probably means that the thermostat is stuck open.

I always appreciate people gettin in TH-cam doing these.videos but yes I think for future reference I would just have it play and normal speed so allows people to see in depth.