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Thank you for this video. Love how chatty and well explained it is. I used to get a weird first strip cutting into the seam and not offsetting the fabric changed everything! Thanks for sharing your knoledge

I usually fold the fraying sides together, overlock them together and wash.

You should not have to hold down that part on the machine!

Wow, and then they say women talk a lot.... Very instructive but waaaay too long, made me super tired and edgy!

I have a contactor ruler. To cut I put weights on it. And the ruler won't move. Just the snap exercise wheigts.

What a great idea! Scissors hurt my hands, arthritis.

Such a waste of time and money. Much easier to do using scissors and without the board. Many great videos on TH-cam on how to cut continuous bias tape. Here is the one I always use and it was posted 14 years ago.. th-cam.com/video/12VNavQleCM/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=MissouriStar

Oh my god I nearly fell asleep

If I can't afford a board, can you show where I would start the markings

does the line you make for the binding line up on the sema line or just the tip of the fabric

Too much talking. Dragging it out.

Its that point with the double lines of sewing I don’t particularly care for….

Dear Sir, i appreciate that this is a multi-purpose video and NOT a tiktak clip. You are presenting education, explanation, demonstration. Your pace allows for visual learners. Experienced sewists can utilize your timestamps and up-speed video Best of all, you invite feedback. Mission accomplished. Thank you, sir.

Too wordy & slow for me too

What's the deal with the hands!

Been making binding this way for years. And a small cutting board on the ironing board does just as well as the little table.

How is this different than putting my cutting mat on top of my ironing board?

All this to sell us a product and you don't even show it in part 1?!

To much work _and_ the bulky table to buy… it’s a no. Also most bias is done with left over pieces of fabric so this method is *extremely* impractical if you sew garments or quilt. If you _sell_ *only* bias tape _maybe_ but it doesn’t make it faster or _easier_ I wish you all the luck though…

I can not believe that I just sat through this and at the end told there is a part two… ABSOLUTELY NOT!

I would prefer all one ‘part’.

If I use upholstery fabric for welted piping will 1/4 in' seam be strong enought ? thank you.

Sooo complicated! I just need a ruler, a marker and (maybe electric) scissors, But no special and expensive additional items. First I sew the two triangles together, then close them to a tube with one row shifted, and then cut along the markings I made before. Of course, if I needed miles of bias tape my hand would get tired by the scissors eventually. But any method would do then. I’ve got electric scissors for the job I can use for any cutting, worth the money anyhow.

You seem to be a patient man with a calm demeanor. Two good traits to have when giving video instruction. However, there shouldn’t be a part 2. We should have seen the finished product in a video this long. PLEASE don’t show us what other people do that you’re not going to do. We don’t need to wade through what will not be a step in your procedure. We want to stay focused and we don’t want to waste time.

Very informative and nice video. Thank you so much!

This was time I will never get back!

not for me

I dont understand why you say that fabric ONLY stretches on the bias. That is not true. Lots of the fabric I have stretches ACROSS the fabric but not up/down. If that makes any sense. What TYPE of fabric are you talking about? You dont specify. Different people use different types. At the moment I am using Tshirt fabric that is 100 % cotton and it certainly stretches across very easily. Maybe you only mean that stiff type of cotton?

This TH-camr seems like a very nice person but I will never use this method to create binding. Most likely the reason is how it's being taught. We are quilters ... not morons! While all quilters should seek out alternate ways of doing certain quilting operations as a way of staying current but this particular tutorial is ridiculous! P.S. Using a metal ruler with a rotary cutter is the worst thing you can do to your blade! Aarrgghh!

I lost track of the number of times this guy used the word “confused”, I only know that if you follow his instructions you will be. And why, since he did not bother about matching the edge on his first join, did he not take the opportunity to match the pattern?

OMG! Fast forwarded and discovered only seeing not the cutting 🤦🏻‍♀️

I have 5 quilts with the binding folded like this. They are 30 years old and everyone of them have failed because it is a one single layer of fabric at fold. Not so great when the quilts are used and wash and drued.

I knew it, something else to buy. No thanks.

This does seem a bit silly. Many use what is leftover from a pattern. Cutting strips from the scrap and sewing together works and is quicker. The other methods without the block is easier. Sorry, but this make little sense.

Unless there is an optical illusion. You are not working on a square piece of fabric, sir.

I tried watching at 2x speed, but it is still too slow.

What a great method. I think being able to use a rotary cutter gives the edges much more crispness than scissors and likely then goes through the bias maker better. Some are saying rotating the fabric around the board seems fiddly. But no more fiddly than drawing a bunch of lines and this method produces more accurate result.

40 minutes of my life I’ll never get back 🤦🏻‍♀️

i'm really trying to hang with this to get the info, but dude's attitude is coming across as very condescending

I feel the need yo add my two cents too. I did not hear or see him recommend the use of a rotary cutter ruler! It's very easy to cut yourself if you do not a thick enough ruler to prevent running over the top of a too thin ruler. Those rotary cutters are extremely sharp.

Too much talking and it’s not for me! I’d of had my binding made and sewn by the time he takes to ramble on!

With your ruler I see no need to draw lines. Just make the 2” cuts and see the strips together. I generally do it in one continuous seam and then cut the threads. I am not sure why you cut that part off at the end. It looked like perfectly useable material.

You would not have the 1/4” offset of fabric after the first pressing if you had off set the points to allow for the first 1/4” seam. It would have been a flush edge. The offset is generally done when sewing each bias strip together the old way so the edges stay flush.

I find it interesting that a fat quarter produces 12 feet and the 26 inch square produces 26 feet! Thank you for an interesting video.

Change speed of video to 1.25x to make this easier to watch. Method starts at 8:52. You're welcome.

This poor guy. He does a video and he had complaints that he talked too much, it took too much time. He does another one and now he is told to explain. I feel for you bother.

Wow! I had no idea something like this existed! I could make bias tape all day with that handy automatic tape maker! Thankyou for such a thorough demo!

I need to cut bias strips of SILK to bind the neckline & armholes of a shell top.Your method is the only way I can see that makes it doable for the silk I am using. My silk is very soft & slinky. It is woven, but not a charmeuse; it is a print.This method works for me except I don't have a strip of cutting mat narrow enough to fit on top of my narrow cheese board so I can cut the strips. My original fabric square was 15". Wood I have, cutting mat I do not have. Hmmmn. Wondering how I can cut the strips. Got to figure this out: how to CUT the strips.

You asked why people leave about 1/4” ear over the bottom piece of triangular fabric in the step at 11:14 minutes into your video. Once you sewed the 2 pieces together, at 14:21 minutes into your video, you will see that at the join where the base of the triangles meet, one edge is about 1/4” shorter, so the edges are not perfectly lined up at both ends of the seam you just sewed. If you had allowed the extra 1/4” overlap, or ear, on one end when you lined up these 2 triangles, you would find the edges lined up perfectly once your seam was sewn and pressed. What you failed to take into account was your seam width. Even though you matched up your edges, the 1/2” seam you sew bumps the join up by 1/2” therefore the edges aren’t aligned. They are off by 1/2” or so since your 1/2” seam allowance offset the edges on both ends. I’m surprised being a machinist, you didn’t take the seam allowance into account when you aligned the two fabric pieces together. On one end, your cut edge is short, it doesn’t meet the edge of the fabric it is sewn to. The same is true on the other end of the seam. You have 1/4” of your top fabric hanging over your bottom fabric.Therefore, in order to have both edges aligned, leave 1/4” (or whatever amount is necessary) to extend beyond the edge on one end and 1/4” shorter at the opposite end before sewing this seam. This is the correct, precise way to align your 2 pieces of fabric. The corners of the ends of bias fabric extend beyond the edges so that when they are sewn and pressed open, they are perfectly straight at the seam where the join occurred. It’s more difficult to put into words as opposed to visually demonstrate.

How can you do this if you don't have a bias tape cutting board?