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@@grasscutter1963 basically, if you’re doing a retrofit and load calc says 3 ton or less, do the 3 ton. If it comes out to 3.5 ton or more, use the 5 ton and set dip switches. In the end, the unit wants to follow the saturation so indoor blower speed is important (as always).

That one was actually made by our installers. We just bought one for my uncles though. It was from Benoist Brothers here in Jackson, MO. It was the exact fit for the 120K btu furnace. I’d have to double check that one

I’m sorry that I just now saw this! Is it new construction home? Or an existing? What is the square footage of the main floor? Is there a second floor or just main floor with a basement?

I would definitely go with the 100k furnace since it is a two-stage. It depends on how cold it gets in your area and what you plan to use as a setpoint for the HP switchover.

My dad said: Need to tell him, pound for pound two wheel drive yes it would

I can’t say I have. The company I work for actually installs Carrier, so I’ve only put in a handful of these. I don’t think it would work out too well though, considering the compressor modulates based on evaporator temp. Without having a set superheat, that inverter would probably be constantly hunting. That’s a good question though 🤔

Hey now, no where was it said that the cub was better 😂

Gotta tell ya, I’ve dealt with that sensor 1 time, and told the unit to ignore it 😂 I advise everyone to get the 2.0 since it has 2 speed! Plus it has aluminum coil instead of copper

After consulting the big book of secrets (manufacturers install manual 😂) you HAVE to install the trap vertically. It will not work horizontally according to the manual. So, if they cannot utilize the manufacture trap, they will have to find a way to make one themselves. Also, something that I myself didn’t even catch initially. The rubber 90 that comes right after the inducer draft motor, it has a little drain that comes off of it. It actually comes from the factory uncut (no actual hole). It would have to have the end snipped off to expose the hole. If they’ve installed several of those furnaces, I’m sure they aware of that but just figured I’d mention it. There is a picture of this in the manual on page 18. Hope this helps

@@jcforward741 JC, Thanks SOO MUCH for the quick reply!!! I read the part about the bottom inducer port 1/4" cut off in this configuration today. I'll check that myself before they return, but my guess is they preformed that task. As far as the trap goes, I'm guessing since the condensate collector box wasn't draining even without a drain hose connected to it, they'll fix the trap issue when they return. But the issue they can't seem to figure out is why the water will not drain on it's own from the collection box drain port with no tubing attached. Water builds up to about 2 inches above the drain port all the while with air bubbling through the port into the collection box like it's 'sucking' air. Eventually the water level reaches the sensor and shuts the unit down. It only takes about 3 minutes to do that. Thanks again!!

@@mike-md yes, the collector box IS under a negative pressure. It will suck air through the hole while it is running. Now, I’d assume when you shut the inducer down (drop the W call) all of the water will drain out because it is no longer under negative pressure. The condensate trap stops the air from flowing in, which allows the water to drain out freely

JC@@jcforward741 That's it....Thanks!! Now they just have to figure a way to get a trap installed. Thanks again!!!!

@@mike-md no problem! Please let me know what they figure out! I’m always curious to know how these turn out

Kohler

I believe the circ fan speed is also your low heat speed. So whatever low heat blower speed is set for is how fast it will run. But I would not change that if it is already set up for proper heat rise for your W1 call. Remember, these are 2 stage furnaces, so they have a W1 and W2 heat stage and blower speeds, so make sure to set your blower speeds per manufacture specs

IF I am understanding you correctly, I believe the answer is yes. The relays i use Have a normally open and normally closed pole. only one of the two can be energized, so when you apply power to the coil (24 V side in my case) it shuts the 120V off on the normally closed terminal and supplies it to the normally open terminal on the relay. The way this one was set up is so that the green and yellow light cannot be on at the same time Because of this really. Once I plug it in at the stand, there is always power at the relay, It’s just my switches location that decides which light is on They do also make these relays with a 120 V coil if you are not able to use a transformer for some reason

A lot of brands are actually going to Media now too I’ve noticed. I’ve worked on a carrier and a Lennox vrf air handlers that I know were both made by media

@@jcforward741 Midea makes the HP but has a Mitsubishi compressor.

@@Balticblue93 it used to have Mitsubishi compressor. From what I was told, I don’t think they do anymore. Mine has Mitsubishi, but I’m pretty sure newer ones don’t

Adding some dialog wood go a long way

One of our companies best installers came out and did it. Blows my mind how he’s able to do this stuff! I asked the same thing about the evap coil especially 😂

The LP conversion is the same as any other furnace. Swap out a spring in the gas valve and orfices on the manifold. Dial in proper gas pressure for low stage and high stage. I think it’s around 4” low and 10” wc high. And yes, it can run with a straight condenser

@@jcforward741 thank you for getting back to me. I am new to this. And if I just use it for heat do I still need a straight condenser to be installed?

Noooo way lol mine is right outside my bedroom window and I can’t hear a thing. Have you ever messed with inverters? Not just Bosch, but carrier, trane, etc?

Why not resi?

Didn’t actually say anything lol 😂

To be fair, the full potential of the variable speed compressor isn’t being utilized like the communication systems like the Carrier infinities. I like the fact that I don’t have the complications that come with comm systems sometimes though. I used a time delay and a relay to make my furnace a 3 stage (breaks Y2 into 2 separate blower speeds divided by 10mins) but I have higher humidity where I live. With my heat pump Here in southeast MO, I’ve used 50 gallons of propane to heat my house since Nov. with a 22° HP lockout, which is really good.

@@jcforward741 Many Thanks for your quick reply. You confirmed what I suspected. I still think the Bosch system is a good option but am also considering the Mitsubishi 4-ton Inverter Heat Pump (PUMY-HP48NKMU) paired with the 3- speed air handler (PVFY-P48NAMU-E1. The cost is nearly the same as the Bosch system. Do you have any experience with Mitsubishi in your area?

@@sierrafoothillslife4246 I do not personally. Not a ton of them installed yet. I’ve heard many good things about them though. I will say, Mitsubishi has a well established name for themselves already in the hvac field. Bosch is still much younger, but they’re doing very well so far amongst technicians and installers approval. If I ran my own company, I’d install Bosch, Ameristar and Mitsubishi

Kohler Commands

I use the Aprilaire 8920W stat. It’s their 7” touch screen stat. I have 3 heat pump stages (I cheated in a 3rd stage for extra dehum). Then 2 gas stages. Aprilaire is always super easy to set up. If you prefer gas heat, I’d just run EM heat and bypass heat pump. But you can set up all different kinds of parameters with these stats easily. In heating: second stages will engage 2 different way. Time or temp. I’m not sure the time length before it will bump to 2nd stages, but 15-18 mins is about right. Or if it gets 2* behind, it will engage 2nd stage. Then if it gets 3* behind, it swaps to 1st stage gas heat. You can actually adjust the temp behind for each stage (if for some reason you wanted it to run one of the stages longer. It’s all in the install book. I haven’t ran my personal gas furnace yet, this will be my 1st year. Moms (in this video) does really good though. She has the Aprilaire 8476. Not as fancy but has multiple stages

@@jcforward741 thanks. I will look into it a little bit. It seems like the 8920w is out of stock everywhere and the Honeywell IAQ might be my best bet. How did you cheat in a 3rd stage? Are you using the blower to dehum?

@@xincai951 the Bosch furnace has a neat blower tab speed selection bar. It’s 5 speed I have blower Y1 call on the slowest fan speed. When Y2 comes from stat, It goes through a relay and time delay. So on Y2, the blower bumps up to speed tab 3. After the timer is up in 10 mins, it bumps up to speed 5. Just a bit longer run time for more dehum. Works pretty good.

@@jcforward741 Thank you. I am trying to do the same with my Honeywell IAQ thermostat which has an option for dhimmification using low speed fan. Do you know when Y1 is called, if the speed tab for some reason is jumped between Lo and Med fan speed, will it default to the Med fan speed or it will give an error code? Thanks

@@xincai951 if 2 speeds are jumped together, to my knowledge that would fry the controls on the motor. I’ve never tried direct tying multiple speeds together. The speed tabs are all low voltage signal that go to the X13 motor. I wouldn’t try jumping them though

Brand new home, vaulted ceiling, 1350 sq ft with basement the same size. Southeast MO climate. $115-120/month

@@jcforward741 I'm a union journemen service tech I'm in NJ 1600sqft home built in 2004 Just filled my propane tank $450 I currently have a 90% heater single stage I'll get like 2.5 -3 months out of it. Just trying to cut costs during the summer my electric bill is 220 winter is like 60-70

@@jcforward741 what do you think would be better ids 2.0 with furnace Or Amana 18 seer 2 stage HP with modulating furnace communicating system

@@johnszymanski548 ehhh 😬 that’s a tough one. Communication systems are still better at dehumidifying than the Bosch. Mine does fine, but I’ve tweaked with it and found the right spot where it will keep it below 55% most of the time. The Amana can probably dehum better, BUT… the I’d say the Bosch’s inverter compressor is much quieter because Amana is not inverter and Bosch is likely more reliable. I’ve had so many issues with Amana/Goodman equipment. Hell, this week a guy got tired of his continuing parts breaking down on his 11 year old one that he’s just putting in a 5 step Carrier inverter. So, in the end, I think I still go Bosch gas furnace and inverter heat pump personally