This is pretty much just raw, uncut video of me sending one of the true classics of the Gunks, back in April of 2024. This was a very special moment for me, for a couple of reasons. Firstly, the climb is a genuine testpiece for any climber, with its three technical cruxes and very runout nature. I wasn’t really considering it as a project until February, when I found myself trying it on top rope and I discovered that it felt within reach. Over the next two months I worked on the route, trying to figure out if I would ever feel dialed-in enough to go for it on lead. Eventually I took the leap and when I sent it I was almost completely overwhelmed, as you’ll see here.
The second reason this was so special for me is that I got to do the route surrounded by my friends Esther, Jackie and Shay. Jackie belayed me (and helped me with beta!), and Shay shot almost all the video you see here. I had a tripod set up and Esther took some video too. For months I thought I would edit the best bits of all three videos together but when I finally sat down to do it I decided the best version of the video was just Shay’s footage, uncut.
Shay died tragically in June, after complications following a heart procedure. He was just 34 years old when he passed away. I only met him a few years ago and almost all of our time together was spent climbing! Still I considered him a true friend and I wish in our short time knowing each other we had found more opportunities to just hang out in contexts other than climbing. It seemed like we had infinite time for that to happen, but now it never will. I feel lucky to have gotten to know him at all. When I watch this video and hear Shay saying "beautiful, Seth" at the final crux, and see our embrace at the end, I take comfort from the fact that we had these special little moments together, which I will cherish always. Rest in peace, Shay.