วีดีโอ

Si, es una beuna cancion.

I would put in a quart then install it mate.

Thanks 👍

That's great news, glad to hear you're back on the road again. 👍

Glad I could help a brother out. All the best mate. 👍

It's best to take the inlet manifold off and pull out the VVS solenoid. Check the strainer mesh for any debris. If there is, then your engine is toast. Hopefully, you've caught it time mate. Good luck 👍

Yeah, it was. Lucky I caught it in time. The car is all good now. 👍

If the noise is coming from underneath the car, it's usually the TCM or your TCM motor. I would check for any damaged wires, then I would try resetting it through the obd port. If that doesn't work, try a TCM module.

I can only dream can't I 🎅

Yes, and they always forget to stamp the service book too. Thanks very much for your positive feedback. Glad I could help!

I've had my R56 since 2011, I get the oil changed every 5000km or I do it myself, the mechanics who work on my car have NEVER stamped the logbook, so like honestly I have no clue what imma do when I sell it. How am I gonna prove it's service history lol. ​@@gbcautoworks

I would plug in an OBD reader and see what fault codes you are getting.

@@gbcautoworks I Got C121C-00

I never let it get that far. No fault codes on the dash. I just had the tick getting louder and louder. I didn't want it to get that bad that the VVT solenoid strainer would fill up with debris and blow my engine. I caught it in time.

Not sure, I'm in Australia. Thanks 👍

Cheers!

I went with the OEM mopar non MDS camshaft, OEM hellcat latest edition lifters, OEM gaskets, MDS blank plugs, Felpro headbolts. I also put in a new waterpump. I didn't want to go with a stage 1 or 2 cam as I didn't want to burn excess fuel or have a car that shakes due to the chop. The car is loud enough with the exhaust and air filter.

@ ok nice bro I’m going do a cam swap myself what bolts do you replace? I know head bolts, rockers arms, camshaft bolt, crankshaft bolt will need to be replaced with new but what about timing cover bolts ? Or any other I’m missing would help bro!🙏🏽

I used the original rocker cover bolts and torquedthem up. They have been ok. I replaced the inlet plenum gaskets. I also changed the exhaust gaskets and bolts but it's not necessary. The hardest part of the job is getting into the exhaust. I split the exhaust and pulled the heads off with the exhaust manifold still attached.

@@gbcautoworks ok bro sounds good. Was it only one lifter that failed or was it multiple and was it the mds lifter or the non that failed?

​@@Uknow02 yes, it was only the one MDS lifter that failed.

Thank you 😊

There are lots of splines inside the torque converter turbine. Also, most TC hold around 2 - 3 quarts when full. I only put one quart in. Just enough. Hope that helps 👍

Not at the moment mate. It's just a hobby for now. 👍

Sounds like the TCM module is faulty. Can you check the wiring connections to make sure that its all plugged in correctly? Have a look at Fuse F94. Do you have any friends with a similar Jeep that could let you swap over the module to check? Good luck. Hope you get it sorted 👍

Yeah, was a tad hot this week 😆 it's going to be a nightmare painting the remaining panels in a few weeks. At least they will dry quickly!

Yep as shown

Thank you. Will be worth it when it's completed ✨️

Its a 2014 mate. WK2 model.

It's from a BMW Mini Cooper 2013 Diesel.

I'm originally from Airdrie, which is a small town in-between Glasgow and Edinburgh. Moved over to Perth WA around twelve years ago. Cars are my hobby, so if I can help anyone save some cash and give it a go, then I'll be happy. Thanks for your positive feedback. 🙏

Yeah, all the trucks are getting expensive these days.

Was a nice SUV.

Yeah, I know the pump fills it up but I like to put a quart in there mate. Just in case. Thanks 👍

Thank you! Cheers!

I had sanded through to the bare alloy. The etch primer attaches to that. Then I just used the normal primer filler. I never use epoxy for anything, although I know others swear by it.

Glad it was helpful!

Glad it was helpful!

What the hydraulic lifters or the actual engine?

Adorable

I have shown it on the other video about suspension checks. Usually, your steering will shake around when pressing the brakes. Or the car will wander around while driving. Best way to eliminate it from worn disc vibration is to get under the car and pull/push on the control arms and you will see it moving excessively. Hope that helps mate.

Can you test the park paul solenoid to see if it's open circuit? An auto electrician should be able to help you out. There's no point changing the TCM if the solenoids open circuit. ( no electrical coil to activate the solenoid).

@@gbcautoworks I see, I think I'll try it with an automotive electrician. I hope it's not something worse and too expensive. Thank you very much for your help.

I'm pretty sure they don't mate.

Did you check the transmission fluid levels? Why did you change your converter ?

It cost me around Aus$3000 for the parts, which included switching off my MDS permanently.

That's good to hear mate 👍

How did thise work out for you ? Also what were the symptoms that made you change it?

@abrahamgonzalezdelgado1717 actually it didn't work. The two different replacement parts made it worse (074AA part number). It actually works better with my original "bad" part. Car runs fine, it only occasionally gives me the "Service 4wd" indicator. The odd part is I know exactly when and where it's going to trigger. There are a couple small hills near home that trigger it. I can literally point my finger when it's about to go off. Like clockwork. I don't know what to make of it.

Thank you

It's surprising but it doesn't.

Thanks very much for your positive feedback mate. Really appreciate it. 👍👍👍 Volvo C70 - Nice car.

Thanks mate 👍

The tick was quite quiet around 60000ks, then it started to get really loud about 70000ks. I always drove in sports mode but It didn't help matters. I uploaded a short video a few months back showing the worn cam lobe. It should be easy to find mate. 👍

@@gbcautoworks Thanks!! I checked all your videos before but I didn't check the shorts. Thats exactly what I was looking for. 60000km seems very low for this problem to start, I thought the usual was around 120000km. Did you let it idle a lot, or maybe you used the MDS system while the engine was still cold? I'm asking cause I'm using the paddle shifters to stay in V8 mode until the oil temp hits +190F.

Nah man, I never used MDS at all. I got the car at 49k ks. Never let it idle either. Luckily I caught it in time and none of the metal filings went into my big end bearings. Now I have a non MDS cam and the car is sweet. That was 25k ks ago.

It's just your luck if the cam goes. Some people don't have any issues. 👍

@@gbcautoworks Yeah its interesting how some HEMI engines don't have this problem. Well I'm planning on taking a look at the camshaft in a few thousand kms, so we'll find out. I hope there wont be a problem till then, I'm at 87000km.

I don't see why not mate. Is this for a pit inspection? I haven't got round to fitting mine yet. Hopefully in the next month, then I will be taking the car over the pits for inspection.

@@gbcautoworks does it have a E badge?

Like E9 or something?

I will check when I'm back at the workshop. Give me a few days mate. 👍👍👍

Yeah bro, it has E9. Then 17.5 hope that helps. 🙂

Yes, getting there slowly but surely.

No mate, I have a ducted 14.5kw system which would be too much current draw. I have ceiling fans in the rooms worse case scenario, if we have yet another power cut. After the geny warranty runs out, I'm going to bridge the 2x 15amp outlets and wire a 32amp inlet to the switchboard.

@@gbcautoworks Because the generator is rated at 3.5KW Max and 3.0KW Watts running output, which equates to meaning it's output is only ever going to be 14 amps max with a running output of 12 amps. So you will never be able to exceed this value. I believe the purpose of installing 2 x 15 amp outlets on this generator is only to allow the user to be able to connect two separate appliances either of which can draw the max of 12 amps but not both, and combined output would not be able to exceed 12 amps without tripping the overload.

@@dickbrennan2537 Yep, true. The generator will never exceed 12.5A cont. output, as thats what its max. rating is. I am in the process of setting up 2 x 3.0Kw cont. output inverter generators/pro made 32A circuit breaker with 32A outlet parallel setup, for a maximum possible 25A cont. output and connection to the house via a manual transfer switch. For emergency power in the event of outages. Will run lights, fans, evap. cooler on rooftop, fridge/freezer etc. The OP definitely does the right thing by shedding as much possible load prior to changeover.

I need to have a look at the data plate with regards to max power ouput. Quick calculation 3000 watts ÷ 240v = 12.5 amps. I see it now, but why give me 2 x 15 amp outlets 😆 false selling.

Stage them depending on load.