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Could you make a video with your studio setup?

OK - the lens discussion - I understand that people enjoy that, That aside - I would like to see a video of your images and a discussion on each one. Not the lighting or camera stuff but anything else. Your photos are a cut above and it is pleasing to see them - cheers - Bruce

Might pick one of these up and dust off the X pro1.

Wondering if I should sell my XF 35mm f/2 and Sigma 30mm f/1.4 to get this Viltrox. Seems like a nice in-between lens. Only thing I'm worried is the light transmission due to the vignetting. Would I get shutter speeds more approximate to the Fujicron at f/2 or the Sigma at f/14.? Would be nice if you could share the RAW files of the comparisons so we could check them in more detail. Please? :D

The XC 35mm F2 is still unbeaten for the money

What's your tip for programming your R8 to make it easier to use out in the field? Tell me about it in the comments.

This is one of the most thorough and entertaining product reviews of a lens that I have ever seen. Excellent work.

It's a very good lens, especially i got it for the equivalent of $124 USD . It's definitely a no-brainer. I also love my Viltrox 13mm 1.4 . Even more than my Fuji 23mm 1.4. Never expected this ! 😮

I’m considering swapping my eos 77d for the R50 would you say this is an upgrade or not..? Great video btw 👍

Pelicans are the best

I ordered this camera just now after after watching this video!! Definitely a life a long subscriber now ❤ I usually take wide landscapes - mountains and valleys! Kindly advise, what lens shall I get with this?

Bought this lens at full price on the same day as my Xpro-2 and it has barely left my camera since. A criminally underrated lens IMO, ESPECIALLY at second hand prices. Would love a speed update with WR though!

Great review. Looking for a new camera. Torn between this and the Sony A6700. I already own some L lenses but open for a new platform

What do you think about the Nomatic Luma 18L McKinnon? Did you go with something else instead? Tell me about it below.

Thanks for clearly explaining everything!

Very suitable for the new compact camera like XM5

Wow...terrible audio quality....

Its so good.

at 15:10 that is NOT lens flare!!, its a light leak, from the darkslide seal, Don't worry, its only an AUD$60/70 repair, not too bad, considering the name Hasselblad, you can also tell it, by the feel of the slide, it must have resistance!, not feel like taking an egg out of a frying pan with a spatula, if its that easy, the slide seal is going, GET it FIXED!!!!

a handy tip, you say you cant cut down light, yes thats half right, I live in Australia, and in our summer, it gets bright, aka EV 13-17 (same as the value on the lens bottom), for ev 14+ USE only asa 100/200 film this saves burnt out negatives (flare/glare), also use the 'pro-shade' or the supplied lens hoods ALWAYS, when the sun is low and ~ 20 Deg. from shooting direction, this is the FLARE zone, avoid it at all costs, also use your mirrorless to meter, set asa corresponding to film in use, and EV. compensation to +2 to emulate film, it takes more light to shoot film (to get good contrasty negs); one other tip, if the sun is bright, use the cloud cover as a natural diffuser, to soften the light.

a WARNING, at 11:26 DONT do this!!, wind the camera FIRST!- the shutter operates off a screw/screwdriver mechanism, it MUST be cocked to prevent jamming it, you can tell by the film counter a little window is by it (on the magazine), and one on the body opposite the one on the mag. it must be WHITE, a pneumonic applies here, white is right, red is dead (film SHOT/body de-cocked), and also watch it when changing backs, white/white is GREAT, RED{body}/white is BAD... take the mag OFF, re-cock, then add it back, all is FINE for shooting (if you don't, it winds a frame without shooting it, aka a BLANK); another process can be done too, for 205fcc, 203 and 2000 series (focal plane bodies), a button is under the winding crank, it is a multi-exposure button it de-couples the shutter cock and film winder, so you can use this when changing mags too.

I have one, they are GREAT cameras, one tip, at 9:53 you MUST pull the latch and let go smoothly, these cameras are NOT made anymore, so we must take care of them 🙂; and avoid as much wear and tear as possible (other than shooting them, if you own one PLEASE use it, they are not just mantle piece ornaments!).

I saw an AD400 and AD100 in your video. Have you used the AD300? (I'm considering one). I use the AD200 & AD100 for location work and have been very happy!

What are your thoughts on the Viltrox AF35mm f/1.7? Were the images impressive enough for a sub $200 lens?

Great this helps a lot. My current biggest questions: if i buy the eyecup viewfinder, does it show the correct way or does that also move left and right inverted? The picture is also upside down, is it not? Thanks

I just ordered this and it should arrive tomorrow. Your review was super helpful! I think this lens is taking a beating because people wanted a 1.4 version of the optical quality of Canon's other prime L lenses (like the 50 1.2 which I own, and the 85 1.2) and of course this is optically compromised and relies on profile correction (through the camera or software). But I don't think Canon's goal was to give you a 35mm prime version of the 50/85 f/1.2, just at f/1.4. They priced it at half of the 85mm and 2/3 the MSRP of the 50mm. This is clearly a hybrid lens (they call it that themselves) aimed at photo+video shooters. Anyone who has used a non VCM L lens (I own the 50 1.2, and the RF 24-70 2.8L IS original) to shoot video can tell you how the focusing on those lenses are clearly not optimized for video, whereas this lens clearly is. I'll update after I get the lens and use it at a couple of local museums.

I just ordered my X100VI, - half way through watching your review! It wont arrive before Christmas, but hopefully before my birthday in March :)

As of this writing, the latest firmware for my Flashpoint R2 Nano for Olympus was (R2nano_O_v1.01_app.bin). However the latest firmware for the Godox X3 for Olympus was newer (X3_O_v1.02_APP.bin). So I updated the firmware of my Flashpoint R2 Nano with the Godox firmware using Godox G3 Launcher (V1.1). It worked great and now when you start the Flashpoint R2 Nano, it shows Godox instead of Flashpoint on the screen. I figured that Godox will keep the firmware updated on their products better than Flashpoint (Adorama). Hope this helps!

🤔 Looks kind of like Mr spacey, sounds like Kevin spacey, and name is Kevin. Kevin spacey, is that really you?

I got the Godox X3 and absolutely loving it!!

Did you get the Flashpoint or Godox R2 / X3 Nano? Are you liking it? Tell me about it below!

New to your channel and i like what I see. Subscribed. I also think you take great photos and that you probably earn a, or at least, some living from that, rather than many youtubers who earn a living from TH-cam revenue and not professional photography. All the best.

I have only used Kodak and Fuji portrait film with my RB67. Thanks for sharing with us your experience with Kodak Gold 200.

Hey - based on your choice in car and colour - I should subscribe. I replaced my failed air remote with an off-brand and it seems A-ok.

Great video as always! I went on an overseas trip recently and decided to take only the 35 1.4 and to keep things light, I am amazed by the IQ of it. I had some bloody amazing shots of my wife too. Its light, sharp and renders colours beautifully. I dont care about digital correction as the end result is simply fantastic.

I have the c the cm and the 150,50,and 80mm lenses, 45 prism 3 backs ext. tube. been collecting dust for a long time .

P for pixel shift!🤣

Welchen Flash und Transmitter verwenden Sie Outdoor?

Thank you for the video. I owned that lens for a more than two years. My problems with this lens was always depth of field: for the same price you get full frame 50 mm lenses with an aperture of 1.4. The depth of field of the 63/2.8 is at most comparable to a 50mm/2.2 ... nowadays I own an 65mm/1.4 for portraits an the 35-70mm for the rest ...

Excellent review. Thanks for sharing. Congratulations from Spain.

Has your opinion of the autofocus changed since the recent firmware update about two weeks ago?

I love the RF 85 1.2, 28-70 2.0 (of course not a prime but anyways), and the 135 1.8😊

Hi Kevin! Interesting choices. I have all the RF zoom lenses, the only prime I have is your #1, the 85mm f/1.2. I went for that one so I had something for portraits with that 3D pop from the bokeh. On lens corrections, so long as the corrections make the images top notch I don't see an issue with that, as there are optical limitations to what manufacturers can produce, every time they push one trait to a new limit they may need to correct one of the other traits to make the whole thing work. It's not as if people need to even think about it, the camera or software applies the corrections in the background, you never have to see the uncorrected image so don't go looking for it and you'll never worry about it.

I really appreciate the explanation of the controls on the app display! Thank you for that :-) The 1080 P limitation only applies to video going to the iPhone. Your SD card is still recording 4K if that's the way you have your camera set. If you use a microphone and mount it on top of the accsoon, it will be top-heavy and move if you don't have it tightened down well. Also, if you tilt the accsoon so you're looking at your iPhone at an angle instead of from straight behind the camera, the microphone will be pointing down somewhat from your subject. So when using a microphone, it's best to mount it somewhere other than on the accsoon itself. I have mostly used my.Accsoon at night, so the screen is more than bright enough. But during bright daylight when photographing wildlife, it would be nice to have a sun shield for my iPhone. But that of course has nothing to do with the accsoon itself.

Does this lens work well with Rp camera?

Have you got your hands on this RF50mm F1.4 L VCM lens? VERY curious about your impressions regarding f1.4 bokeh vs f1.8 and best uses like studio or street.

Fair review. Yes it’s overpriced but so is the X100 VI. Captive market for us users. However, unlike Canon, Sony and Nikon lenses it’s aluminium and glass, not plastic. It’s also made in Japan so has a quality price premium. Very few main brand lenses and converters at this price point are made in Japan, they are usually offshored. Sigma is a rare exception. My first converter for the X100 VI was the wide angle. I needed this for a recent trip to historic cities in northern Spain like Salamanca, Segovia, Toledo and Madrid. Whist it was time consuming to take on and off, like the tele converter I have a standard approach: use the excellent Nisi shaped filter as the normal set up to avoid dust getting into the camera, stick the filter and the plastic back and front converter covers into the little soft bag Fuji supplies then attach the converter (never pointing upwards to avoid dust ingress). As a mini system the camera and two converters work very well and all can create sharp photos in the right hands. You have reminded me to do the latest firmware update.

My Lenses N0 1 : RF 50 f 1.8 // N0 2 : RF 28 f 2.8 // N0 3 : EF 40 f2.6 sim 😉

Great video! I love what you are doing with the RF 16 f/2.8. I have a budget list. The RF 85 f/2 is at the top. I need to "fall in love" with my RF 35 f/1.8 and maybe pick up the RF 50 f/1.8 before leaping into the L-series primes. I have rented the heavenly RF 85 f/1.2. WOW!! I agree with others about the 100 f/2.8 and am thinking about upgrading from the EF to the RF version.

50 1.8, 28 2.8 is my current tag team for my r6². Easy carry, I am a hobbyist