วีดีโอ

Thank you so much for the video and may god bless you

Thanks for this video I have that same job to perform...

Fantastic video and very thorough, thanks.

Very helpful, great detail! Hope to see more content, thanks. 🙏

Thank you Dr. Andrew. I like the riv-nut solution. I will check this on my L494

I had the same problem but don’t forget they have two earths one on each side of the front wheel arch under the plastic covers 😊

Thx for the video.

Thanks for making this video. I had the exact same issue on my Range Rover Sport L494, 2016. I performed your repair and it sorted the issue. Much appreciated.

brilliant. thanks

Hi Dr. Fantastic video, thank-you.

If you are watching this video, please know it will be nearly impossible to do this without the LLR tool. Also, the rearward front lower control arm wasn’t too challenging for me, but the forward arm was a real bear. Took me hours per side just to get the ball joint to release. Reassembly was easy. Best video for the job!

I'd like to know if you had a quote from a LRJ dealer and if so, how much?

Very informative, thanks for posting.

45 for an alignment wow It’s $200 and up here in America

Things like should be part of maintenance checks for long term owners. Regular issues need a little wiggle when you your 5k oil change

Excellent video , really clearly explained with full detail of parts and tools required …. !

WoW..!!! Fabulous video.

How can we access the e manual ?

Great video - you are a brave man! When you say knocking, could you advise if this was at all speeds or low speeds?

Great job and great video.

Just subscribed here having watched this fantastic tutorial. I have the same noise coming from the same side on my discovery 3. Great job! Thanks!

Great write up. Have same issue so will be doing this. Interesting about the ride comment, mine is currently riding terribly so I hope this cures!

Super

Hi , nice content ,more range wrenching videos please !

Thanks for this Andrew, this was a very helpful guide and helped me with my current earthing problem and resolution.

Nice, I like your channel and Raymies Garage for L405 videos.

Dont sell it you will need it again

Awesome. I couldn't locate by sight or touch one of the two bolts. Do you think the engine designers could have made it any harder to remove a starter motor?

can we all acknowledge the production crew in this high quality film?

Excellent video - thank you. I had this issue too…£500 for Land Rover to repair! 😮 This was my 12th and final Range Rover….the L405 was the worst car I have ever owned….far worse than any of the five P38s I owned! Hope you have a better experience with yours….good luck!

Rangerover L405s make great boat anchors.

No start scenario usually with continuous power down on start or spurrus fantom fault codes when cranking = EARTH LEAD IMPEDANCE failure - continuity test will show good earth lead but adding a second earth lead will eliminate no start- power down on start - annoying fantom fault codes on starting .......in my experience 😑

Rang Rover / Land Rover = Nice looking Junk

Excellent video

That was a nice easy to follow write up Andrew. Good description on how you carried out the diagnosis and repair

th-cam.com/video/Xvw9fuyrXk8/w-d-xo.html

Great video, really helpful. I've linked to it in my own video detailing how I refreshed my solenoid, after following your video to get it out 👍

As said remove the inlet manifold,it's easier and only takes a few minutes You may as well clean it out while it's off.

Thanks for the video, followed your instructions, 60 mins start to finish

ha, 90 minutes (6 hours later) :-) Thankyou Mr Sutherland! This is the only source of info that really gives the hints as to where the bolts and what tools you'll need. Haynes manual? Rubbish. Forums scraped for info? Hard going. This video? Not bad. If you can get a mechanic to do this for £100, chose that option because this job is a right royal pain. My top tips, having done this to refurb the starter solenoid just yesterday, are: Maybe by 03 plate has different setup (Denso starter) but remove the +ve feed AND THE GROUND CLIP THAT NESTLES THERE BUT IS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO SEE because it's black and covered in 20 years of grime. It will take some persuesion. Releasing/penetrating oil. Use it. Liberally. Often. Those seemingly welded on nut and bolts will give in eventually. That 15mm nut? Pull the spanner forward and down to open it. The 13mm nut the other end just does not have any range of movement inbetween those hoses. The back bolt that is shown in the video using the long extension? It really is hard to find! Use your phone's camera to help see under the jumble of pipes. Then use your fingers. REMOVAL OF STARTER: Beautifully understated, it is awkward and takes time! Rotate the starter along it's left-right axis to free it before pulling up on the back end once the drive is free. You'll need to be brutal, move those hoses out the way, but it will come out. Don't despair - getting it back in is a whole lot easier. REASSEMBLY: Once the starter motor is vaguely in the right place, first bolt to do it the one needing the long extension. this will help seat the starter in place. Wiggle it a bit to get the locating lugs on the starter body in place. The front bolt, with the 15mm nut, is proper tricky to get in place unless you have the fingers of a squid. A good 10 minutes of finger yoga got me there in the end. WARNING: Dropping spanners, bolts and nuts into the bowels of the engine and undertray is insanely easy to do, and retrieving them an upsetting challenge. My toppest tip is to get a magnet on a felxible wire to get yourself out of this tricky situation. about £5 from Toolstation, under their mechanics tools section. Great video tho. If you suddenly find your freelander really won't start anymore after months of being "playfully reluctant" to start - this is all you need. Oh, and the solenoid repair kit off ebay, about £10. TY Dr S!

It's easier to remove inlet manifold