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Respectfully, "auto remove silences", "reduce gaps" or some sort of option like that in your video editing software will massively improve your retention.

This is fantastic. The link no longer works, are you able to produce another?

I didn't try it now, maybe you know the answer ;-) - I have a Xrite Colorchecker Passport, which I didn't use like 10 years, as it was bound to LR only, after that I've switched to Capture One - and it was so buggy, I switched to ACDSee, which got much better than it used to be, but I didn't like it anyway at the end. This year I've switched to Linux from Windoze and I've found Dartkable, which I love very much ;-)! I've seen that 'color calibration' module but didn't try it so far. Thoughts? TY!

Thanks, absolute game changer for photographing bathrooms with LED lighting! Your vids are the best on TH-cam!

Can you explain the point made at 5:55 please? Why does it go after the sigmoid module and how does it impact the process chain?

I have a doubt; I load a RAW photo in darktable, and export it to JPEG, without touching any editing menu. Just live anything in darktable by default. And te result is a JPEG photo with more noise than the JPEG that camera makes automatically (I shoot RAW+JPEG). Any ideas?

The old DSLR cameras are still Very relevant as I recently decided to buy a DSLR camera But didn't want to spend a ton of money on a new entry level one and picked a 16 year old canon 1000D as an affordable experimentation and training tool it only cost me £80 versus spending £600 on a new 2000D that is the current entry level model that is very similar so if I ended finding the camera to heavy to confuseing or just to time consuming to use I wouldn't have emptied my bank account getting it b

Another brilliant channel I've had to sub to aha

Instead of reinventing the wheel, Darktable has reinvented the tone curve ... but I'm not convinced it was necessary.

Amazing content, thank you!

How do you import styles to darktable?

I have a D40 and the standard colors are already a bit better then life. Only neutral gives you more reference colors. I think modern cameras are just more accurate

Ccd secret sauce 😊😅😊

Great Video, I'm still using my D300 purchased new in 2008 as well! I just got a D800 cheap as I wanted to try full frame, but like you said the lens makes more of a difference than the camera most of the time!

I can't say I was crazy about the images you picked. A lot of the CCD look is the way color contrast with the unsatured parts of the image. It's pretty obvious if you look through any D200 galleries...

CCD sensor cameras are loved by seasoned photographers. This feeling is not driven by publicity or hype; rather it is based on experience and eyes that can differentiate. Therefore, they are unlikely to be distracted by noisy promotions. Long live CCD sensors.

Super amazing greatly appreciated...🎉

Haha that history tab when you first open dt is intimidating lmfao

It's better - because it's OpenSource! I have used DT since 0.4 release. But not, during the past 2 years anymore. LR/PS is a cr@ppy subscription model - go figure !

I have the same exact picture of a flower in both RAW and JPEG files. The RAW file looks like 💩. The JPEG looks okay but i want to sharpen and brighten the flower while darkening the background. When i use the RAW file, i can't even get it to look like the JPEG much less get it to sharpen and brighten. When i start with the JPEG, i get like half the control settings than i do with RAW files. Can you do a tutorial maybe where you show how to make a RAW file look like a JPEG file?

I've been using dark table for a month and I still can't figure it out. Any image I put in there just looks worse afterwards than it did before. The split view screen is what's killing me. I'm color blind so if I don't have a split screen to compare in real time it just looks like the images exactly the same as it was before.

You are spot on about everything! "Old cameras" are a bargain nowadays. I'm curious about the astrophotography set up lens/telescope combination. Do you have any video about it?? Thanks!

I have both the large and pocket size color checkers. For on the go photography the Color Checker Passport (pocket size) can't be beat. I've been using color checkers for over 45 years when I want the most accurate colors.

I thought the conventional approach to sharpening was to do a little in the RAW editor and then, depending on the output destination, some amount of sharpening again.

Should you take a bath, comb your hair and shave? Probably so!

Thanks That looks great

Very helpful.

I've been testing Darktable off and on for a long time. It is a steep learning curve and, as you mention, DT has a lot more refined adjustments available than in LR. However, I've always had a problem with it crashing. This on Intel and AMD processor computers with 16GB or 32GB of memory and dedicated SSDs to handle large file sizes. Right now I'm working on the ins and outs of Luminar Neo. I've used all their other titles too going back to their early days. I've been testing software since 1979 when I bought my first computer. (First Apple with floating point processor instead of integer. No lower case on the keyboard, no printer controller, no floppy or hard drive, programs came on cassette tape, when the first modem came along it was 300 baud, so slow you could easily keep up with text as it appeared on the screen. LR, and PS, seem more and more bloated every day.

Doesn't Darktable let you make your own adjustment panel of most used controls? I might have that mixed up with another photo editor, I play around with all of them from time to time. Not as much as I used to when I was a pro photographer and working with PS since very early versions. Rawtherapee has it's pros and cons too. I mostly like it's RAW sharpener capabilities.

If I might make a suggestion, have the window with you in it on the other side of the screen so you're not blocking the Histogram and the top controls on the adjustment panels. Lower left would work, or even on top of the photo as long as it's not blocking an area you'll be working on.

Very interesting content. Thank you so much. However one hint: you could use your mental slider to drop the verbal use of “all right” significantly. That would boost your overall rhetorical profile dramatically 😉.

Definitely more video's like this!

Test the color space offered by the Hasselblad H3D-39.

I always knew about styles but never bothered to learn how to do it. After our recent vacation, I started to edit some similar shots and realized, with over 1000 files to edit (well, I'll trim that to a few hundred), I must learn styles. Thanks for making this!! It will save me tons of time. I do have a few follow up questions: - Can I edit an existing style, change a few values (say RGB colour balance change 15% saturation to 5%) and save it with a new name (ex: ColBal5) - Can one rename an existing style? - How can I delete a style that I no longer need (ones I experimented with while learning/testing styles) Thanks and keep up the great work!

I switched 3 times from CCD to CMOS and every single time I preferred the CMOS output. I switched my Canon S90 to S100, my Nikon D40 to Olympus E-520, then my D200 to the D7000. Every time I found the CMOS sensors gave me better everything and especially colors

Yea lets see more of this

Might you try testing with photos that have valiant colors in the same material such as soil, dirt rocks, any nature that have a gradient shades, you might see more differences between the two. I'm no professional, but I've been looking into the sample image from CCD quite a bit, it doesn't seem to be effecting much on pure color like primary red, green, blue, but when the on materials with multi-tone color, the image from CCD seems glowing, while compare to image from Cmos and even from my own D3400, almost every color on the image looks deadly monotone (like grean grass has only one green tone, dry soil has only like brown tone, shadow has pure dead gray tone). Again I'm not a pro and expert, If I wasn't fooled by those film simulation and all color grading stuff on the sample images of D200, we might find something more concrete than this. Good video regardless. 👍

Which produced the best images per dollar?

This is the best Darktable intro I have seen. I've tried to use it many times, but despite having a lot of technical experience with photos and both darkroom and digital workflows, I would always get frustrated with figuring out Darktable and then run back to Lightroom (v6) because I simply needed to get stuff done. Now I'm going to give Darktable (and Ansel) another go. Thanks!

Nice video. You make it very easy to understand why and how to do it. Thank you.

Dude, this absolutely needs to be a series. Just found your channel, you've got a subscriber!

Great DarkTable vid. Love the editing process and hope you have more to come in the future! Subscribed and liked. Great job! 👍

Advanced enthusiast here (artist in other fields, but also using photography more and more). I skipped LR and went directly to Darktable, probably because of cost and always wanting to go against the flow, avoiding the mainstream. Learning Darktable has been a learning curve for sure, and I'm still a beginner. But it's fascinating, deep, and I learn a lot. Still, it takes a lot of time, but I'm learning how to speed things up and make presets and stuff. I really think Darktable is an amazing tool, and I feel no real urge to learn LR at all.

The main difference between using DT and LR, aside from the subscription fee, is the speed of processing photos. Professionals might prefer LR for its balance between speed and quality. I love DT, but you can spend a long time working on a single photo to achieve the desired result, whereas LR gets you there more quickly. As you mentioned, the underlying philosophies of the two are different. AI advancements may widen the gap and could tip the scale in favor of LR for the broader audience. THANK YOU FOR THE VIDEOS

Still use and love my Fujifilm S5 Pro and never disappointed me. You just have to keep in mind to think before you shoot, cuz you can‘t crop that much with such low megapixels in postproduction compared to modern cams. Btw the D200 images looked great.

Lightroom isn't even the competition. Capture One is.

he just like me fr 🥲 very affirming to see someone use darktable similar to the way i do

I'm looking for an alternative for Lightroom as I wanna leave Adobe for good after a loooong time. Been looking at a lot of info about Darktable but everywhere I look the changes (which are always instant in Lightroom) takes forever to apply in Darktable... except in your video. Seems like when you apply or change something it does it quite quick yet somehow every other video I've watched it takes up to like 10 seconds for changes to take effect. I really can't deal with every single change taking that long. Is it normally fast for you or slow? Just seems weird since everyone elses seem slow while yours is quite fast 🙃

Hello there! I'm in the process of getting to know Darktable (v. 4.8.1) after a few years of using only Raw Therapee. I admit I love many features of DT and scene-referred workflow, but... One of the things I struggle with the most is setting the global contrast. Most of the photos I have require quite substantial compressing of the highlights in the Filmic module (darks usually don't require as much). The resulting curve doesn't allow for the high value of latitude and it starts to clip very fast when adjusting contrast. The image is very flat. You've mentioned nothing about the tone equalizer module, which is supposed to be paired with the Filmic to compensate for the lack of contrast. I find it very cumbersome to use. I would appreciate some video on the subject of global contrast.

AaaaRHhhh!!! Please keep your hands still!!