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Iv never heard a violently angry instructional video 😂

That's an interesting point you make. I don't know much about metallurgy, but that does seem to make sense. However, since they are dissimilar metals (steel & aluminum) they react over time & can be difficult to separate. FYI in my short "Rust Removal Part 2 of 2" I did use Anti-Seize compound. The link is th-cam.com/users/shortsHLy_x8Fv4Gw

I did use Anti-Seize compound in my short "Rust Removal Part 2 of 2". The link is th-cam.com/users/shortsHLy_x8Fv4Gw

@AvengerAdventure sweet i use that stuff to! I use the zink one mainly

Thanks for that tip !! I use the aluminum anti-seize version and I didn't even know the zink version existed. I'll give it a try.

I also use anti-seize & that prolongs the effectiveness.

This work takes me 1.5 to 2 hours. So I totally see why you wouldn't want to bother w/ it. For me I don't like rust so I do it.

Must not live in rust belt 😂

At tire shops such as Discount Tire, Les Schwab and Big O, we do this every single time the wheel comes off. Rust is bad no matter how much is there, get rid of it when it’s easy.

If I have to change a flat on the side of the road, I won't have to struggle to get the wheel off. By the way, in my short "Rust Removal Part 2 of 2" I did use Anti-Seize compound. The link is th-cam.com/users/shortsHLy_x8Fv4Gw

Good point. Thanks for mentioning that.

Thanks for watching & commenting

Yes I agree. This was a tedious & time consuming job. But I knew that before I started and that helped me get thru it without destroying anything. (They should have put the alternator where the power steering pump is).

@ScottXDavidson Hi Scott, the Coolant had been drained, but I forgot to mention it. Thanks for pointing that out so other viewers will be aware of it.

I'm glad the video was helpful and thank you for commenting. Regards.

Thanks for watching & commenting

I used to change oil at your recommended mileages. However about 8 years ago, a master mechanic sold me on AMSOIL 0W30 Full Synthetic Oil along with extended oil changes mileage of 10K miles. At that point I stopped using Mobil 1 Full Synthetic and I switched to AMSOIL. Thats what I've been using for at least 100K miles. Over that 10K mileage interval I end up adding just under 2 quarts of oil to make up for what my engine is leaking or burning (that's 2 tenths of a quart per 1,000 miles - that's acceptable to me). My check engine light has NEVER been on. So i know my catalytic converter is NOT burned up and NOT clogged up. Also I do NOT have any smoke coming out of the tailpipe, so I know my piston rings are still sealing, and I know that my cylinder bores are still in good shape (good cross-hatches) and I know that my valve stem seals are still doing their job and not letting any oil down into the combustion chamber. Also that tells me that the valve stems & valve guides are NOT worn out. At present (24 August 2024), my engine has over 142,000 miles on it. I change my Engine Air Filter every 6 to 12 months. My car sees 99.99% asphalt roads and is rarely on a dirt road. At almost every oil change, I send an oil sample to Blackstone Labs for analysis. And they have NEVER come back with any serious Red Flags. Furthermore, Blackstone has always told me that I could have gone another 1,500 miles or more on my old oil. Let me be clear that I use AMSOIL 0W30 Full Synthetic Signature Series that costs approximately $12 per Quart. And at that price it better be something that lasts and makes my engine last longer. Also I check my oil approximately every 2 weeks and I keep the level at the absolute top of the cross hatched area on the dip stick (I'd probably go crazy if my engine did not have a dip stick like a lot of newer cars). So my engine is always at the full mark on the dip stick and it is NEVER allowed to run low on oil. Also the 0W30 oil weight performs very well in my climate. Colder climates may require a different viscosity. My oil does turn very dark after about 2,500 miles but I've talked to multiple people who are "in-the-know" about this & they say it's not a big deal (specifically I've talked to technicians at Blackstone Labs and a technician at AMSOIL over the phone). Anyway, those are my thoughts....

Since the engine block & cylinder head are aluminum and the intake manifold is plastic, then if it was kept running after the hose blew off (until it just shut off due to overheating), then cylinder head could have warped along w/ the intake manifold. Is it possible to get a 2nd opinion from another mechanic ??

@@AvengerAdventure yeah I have a blown head gasket , they said they can fix fit 3,168. , bc a new engine would be 11,000

Yes, these MOPAR plugs are pre-gapped correctly. I did, however, double check all gaps with a feeler gauge. This was NOT shown in the video, but I installed them & then (due to 2nd-guessing my work) took them back out to check ALL of the gaps. Since on the first installation the crush washer (or crush gasket) was CRUSHED, when I reinstalled them, I torqued them to 20 Foot-Pounds. This figure came from the Haynes Manual for the car. Note the diagram on each MOPAR spark plug box shows how to tighten the plug with a NEW & UN-CRUSHED GASKET. This is what I did in the video. After the gasket has been CRUSHED, then you have to revert to using a torque wrench to tighten the plugs correctly.

@@AvengerAdventure You're the best man appreciate the quick response! Thanks for the video 🤙

Thanks for commenting. Sorry you had to go through all that hassle and expense. I have AAA Plus which guarantees 100 miles of free dispatch AND 100 miles of free towing. Anything over 100 miles I have to pay out of pocket per mile. I think it costs approx $135 per year, but I called them on the phone to renew recently & it was only $75 for this year but I was on the phone over an hour. I also need to get a rideshare "membership" so I can "get outta there - to safety" if my car leaves me stranded. I mean its pushing 10 years old w/ well over 100,000 miles on the clock. So it could happen. That gives me the option to leave it & come back w/ a UHaul pickup truck and a car dolly to get it home or to a shop.

Glad to hear your 2.4L Dual VVT Engine is lasting. That means you're doing your maintenance & not beating on it.

@@AvengerAdventure yes and no my sister owned it before me and beat it to hell but since ive owned it ive taken good care of it but now it hard to sell at 263k

Thanks for that tip.

Thanks for commenting. I think my videos are very difficult to find on TH-cam. I don't know why.

@@AvengerAdventure have you done the thermostats in the avenger?

Was they already pre- gaped?

@@t33mccullough15 Yes the MOPAR plugs are pre-gapped

YES I've changed both thermostats & the plastic housing on my 2.4L Dual VVT Engine. using part numbers below (I also changed upper & lower radiator hoses and the heater hoses) : Thermostat Housing - Mopar (4884571AB) Coolant Adapter Package - Mopar (68003582AB) Thermostat, Primary 170 Degree - Mopar (55111016AE) Thermostat, Secondary 203 Degree - Mopar (55111017AC) Adapter Seal - Mopar (4884572AA) Water Inlet Tube O Ring - Mopar (4884873AA) Radiator Inlet Hose - Mopar (5058997AG) Radiator Outlet Hose - Mopar (5058998AF) - discontinued (try NAPA, AutoZone, O'Reilly, etc.) Heater Supply Hose - Mopar (5058801AB) Heater Return Hose - Mopar (5058802AB) Note : The MOPAR hoses come with clamps (NAPA AutoZone, DiscountAuto, etc may not include clamps) Mopar parts are outrageously expensive, If money is tight look for a suitable substitute at NAPA, AutoZone, Advance Auto Parts, O'reilly, etc. But I did use all MOPAR parts when I did the work.

Glad it helped

@@AvengerAdventure FYI, in my city they sell the part with new pre-sealed hoses attached. They said it's to prevent breakage again at the neck. Of course it was a whooping $100 but if it helps...sobeit!

Thanks for your positive comment. I'm glad the video was helpful.

a better option to the hot glue would be something like 3M 77 automotive spray adhesive.

@@mattuber291 I ened up using a light coating of gorilla glue. Worked great.

If you have the 2.4L Dual VVT Engine, you may be looking for this these parts numbers : Thermostat Housing - Mopar (4884571AB) Coolant Adapter Package - Mopar (68003582AB) Thermostat, Primary 170 Degree - Mopar (55111016AE) Thermostat, Secondary 203 Degree - Mopar (55111017AC) Adapter Seal - Mopar (4884572AA) Water Inlet Tube O Ring - Mopar (4884873AA) Mopar parts are outrageously expensive, I'd look for a suitable substitute at NAPA, AutoZone, Advance Auto Parts, O'reilly, etc.

I talked to a professional mechanic, and he said it could be the cam phasers that are making the ticking sound and that this could be caused by a leaking solenoid control valve that engages the cam phasers. That solenoid valve will turn (on or off) the oil pressure to the cam phasers for them to be controlled. If that valve becomes leaky, then overnight the oil pressure to the cam phasers can leak down and, in the morning, they will tick on the first cold start up until oil pressure builds back up. In my case I've been able to silence the tick (even at the first cold start up) by what I did in this video so that's what I'll keep doing. I used the term "Lifter Tick" in the video because that's what I thought it was and Chrysler / Dodge for sure has this problem in their 3.6 Pentstar V6 as well as at least one of their Hemi V8 engines.

Your welcomed. I'm glad it was helpful.

Thanks for commenting. The day i shot this video clip, the weather temperature wasn't cold enough for the engine to make the lifter tick sound. But i was determined to finally get this video finished. So i just went w/ it. As far as the sound, the air door actuator (blower door) sound is more of a plastic on plastic sound. And the lifter tick is a metal on metal sound.

For a larger filter use a fl500s or equivalent

Interesting. Was the oil pump pickup tube bent or restricted in some way ??