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I have almost same jointer. G0490W. I just tore down the machine and am waiting on Shelix delivery. Getting the bearings out was a real chore. Nothing like your machine or the Grizzly TH-cam. I rally had to press hard with a puller. I plan to heat the blocks up a bit before pressing.

Get to the point!!

Came here to see resawing with a table saw, not a story about the bandsaw 😂😂.

Sorry, but that piece is waaaay to tall for you to be using it against that short fence. Looks VERY risky and dangerous.

Thanks for sharing this. I have a lot of scrap plywood and other boards. I checked out the link you had. But I didn’t want to buy more plywood so i grabbed a piece that I thought would make a good base and got to work. I’m almost done. I do like that you created the rabbet and dados. I did not do that. I was under a time constraint. I have most of my cart done. I did mess up and got ahead of myself and didn’t drill holes. But… it works out better because I’ll use up some scraps and just use scrap ply instead of the metal tubing.

Hey, nice tips in this video. How deep did you make the holes? And did you discover any weak areas in your solid core door? Reason I ask is that I also have a solid core door but I don't think it's solid wood all the way over - there's some kinda material in there but couldn't say what it is. Was not certain I could put dog holes anywhere except the outsides, where it definitely is solid wood.

thanks bro

I would have used that Japanese pull saw and never looked back. Save the Sawsall for demolition work. Why wouldn’t you just run those two boards through your planer or run a no.7 across them? You can’t burn $10/board foot cherry. That’s some end-stage Scarface $hit right there. Use some $100 bills for tinder. [lights acetylene torch] “Say hello to my lidl fren!”

You made one mistake in your installation. The smaller front bearing should be pressed onto the cutter head first, as it slip fits into the block. Doing it the way you did it may not have it pressed all the way onto the shaft

I thought to myself "Oh NO!" When I saw the Sawzall! Lol! BUT, I also thought you were keeping both sides for book matching. Like you said, "Ya do what you have to..." I agree.

I've been doing the same thing to book-match for years. I've got two helpers for the process. On the end grain I take a circular saw and connect the cuts as a guide for the saws all blade and I use one of the saws all blades with the carbide teeth.

You can also just get ready shades, and put them inside your garage window and it sticks at the top and lets as a shade does, and No One can See through. So much easier.

Thank you, Uncle Jason, for this informative presentation. Now I have even more "ammunition" in my battle with the wife to allow me to buy a drill press for my shop, my "man cave" as I begin my retirement. I particularly like the clamp fix for the fence problem as it points out one more use for that tool. Next, is the extender fix for the short spindle depth / drill bit. Keep up the good work of practical, well made presentations.

Great tips, thanks.

Where are you buy this guide?

Even after a year from being posted, I needed to route some sled guide on the outfeed table I built and this was a perfect example for preparing the jig first, then getting the router setup for 3/8" depth. I'll fiddle with the length of the guide slot, but figure 9 1/2" will do it. Thanks for putting this out there.

Great presentation, Subbed! thanks for taking the time to share.

Great idea to make consistent dog holes.

"Watch the last video I did on the chisel rack." well I assume it did not make the cut for quality after some time. I'll miss you chisel rack build.

Thanks for the demo. I also don't have a jointer and I manage as well.

I enjoy watching your videos!

Jointer, my second most used tool. But I do like what you did there showing the average garage woodworker how to quickly square a board. There are many ways to skin a cat.

Depends on the joints you want to make- never felt the need for a mortice jointer or a dovetail jointer. To do the task you are engaged on I would just use my planer on one edge and then my thicknesser. Just the job for this sort of task.

That Stanley scrub plane is a real paradox: they were cheap tools for rough work, that are now so rare they're expensive. I did a similar glue up when I was making my kitchen table legs, but used the bandsaw to do the work of the scrub plane, then tidied up with the jointer plane.

Hold on, you had handsaw's but dont know how to sharpen them ?

Could not agree with you more on the jointer and fingers. Might I suggest a no.7 size plane next time. The no.7 will get stock flat easier and faster.

I enjoy doing things with hand tools. The only thing I don’t enjoy is thickness planing and still use a machine to get sides parallel and to a uniform thickness. Good demonstration, the one step you did not show is verifying you are straight down the length of the leg. Sometimes you can be square, but still have a crown or dip over the length. I use a 4’ aluminum straight edge with a milled face to verify.

The handwork for building a handwork bench is very earnest. Really enjoyable. Shannon Rogers, and others, have inspired me to do much more with hand tools. I used to start everything on table saw and now I am more willing to handsaw my parts. Next time you sell something give me a call.

You use the tablesaw to square off the edges of the board. You can square the entire board with a tablesaw.

I'm not sure I understand why you didn't square up the boards BEFORE gluing them together. Making sure they are square on two sides and then run the faces through the plainer would have saved you a lot of work.

I sold my jointer 2 months ago. Had it for 15+ years. Hardly used it. It ripped 2 of my fingernails off one time and am missing a piece of a finger….

Curious why this matters? Is it because you don't like the look of it or is the size different enough to actually matter?

Wouldn't this amount of gap close with the clamps on the glue up?

Hi , may be you should have a look at the rollers that feed the wood in and out , I think that the one that takes the wood out of the blades has not enough pressure to keep it flus to the plate down and the wood moves up by the wieght of the lengh pending down at exit , if not just pour a support at the exit of the planer to keep the wood from bending down by its weight until you get someone who can fix your planer . Good luck . Your video is nice and says what your audience need to see .Keep it like that . you have one more subscribers + a like 😀

What's a snipe, please?

Great tip! I’m definitely going to do this. By the way, It’s usually called museum wax in case you’re looking for it on Amazon or something

Really useful video and I like the way it was presented.

Great video.

if this does indeed work you may have just revolutionized planing lol. Buying right now!

Museum putty just might be what I need in my RV camper. Thank you for the tip!

Hello. Nice to see you again. Hand tool workbench progressing along.

Hi, I am looking for the referenced video you mentioned ( How to build a chisel rack) on how to get equal spacing, but do not see it in your videos?

Have the same machine. Spent a week trying to get those beds parallel and co planer. Still not perfect but got it has close as i could. Head is off by .002 across the width of the tables. may try shimming the cutterhead. Really complete video. Good job!

Good explanation and detail on this repair. I have this X5 bandsaw, purchased new in 2006. One of the nice things about it is that the heavy duty spring was actually included with this saw by Delta.

My cuts are drifting using a fence that is installed in the fence slot. I watched a video where a guy was able to adjust the table to get the direction of cut parallel with the fence. Is your model adjustable like that? I can not find any adjusting screws to reposition the table, and the manual does not include any such adjustments for that problem. My model a 28-276. All watchers welcome to respond.

Clamping a clamp! As a beginner with few tools I couldn't figure out how to hold a board down to "rip" cut it all the way across, so that tip really helped me out, even though I'm sure it's obvious to most, heh.

I bought a delta bandsaw from a gentleman it ran good I loaded it in my truck got it home unloaded it plugged it in and it won't run any suggestions?

Looks like you are using a Saw Stop with a Freud limiting blade - That's a NoNo

For starters I love your videos, hope you continue to make more...I'll give you a pass on the sink next to the electrical box because that might have been the only place to put it that would fit etc....but putting your flammable storage right next to the electrical panel! Thats a new one! Why recognize they need to be in a metal cabinet and then put it closer than code allows to the potential source of ignition? Just something to think about, hope you make more videos, promise thats the last from the peanut gallery.

it blows my mind that from the factory the cutter head needed to be shimmed, I have 3 jointers they're 70-100 years old and not one if them has a shim on it, you would thing they would be able to machine things better these days than back then