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Thank you so much. Blessing to you and your family 🙏🏻

@@thebikeguru91same to You 🙏🏽

I must be honest I’m also pretty into the old school look that’s why I chose a K4 GSXR1000 for my turbo build. I’m 6”4 so the new bikes so small for me too.

lol not my toys my brothers I sold all mine while I heal up. We both big Ducati fans.

@@thebikeguru91 Plenty of time mate! They are amazing bikes.

Hi great question. I do it to confirm my rpm limit is accurate as bikes rev to very high rpm so it allows me to check a few things like knock, true limit, power drop to drop limit if necessary as pointless having limit high when power is falling, also to make sure my AFR is in check when close or on limit, motorcycles hit limit quite quickly also so when on dyno it’s tough to predict when to shut off, maybe other tuners have other reasons. Thanks for your comment.

Appreciate you trusting me to work on it, amazing bike.

Thanks bud.

Thanks for your comment, that would definitely help a lot to either bore these throttles or replace with larger ones and velocity stacks but have a good feeling that a head port and polish would be a major move along with at least 288cc injectors would do the job nicely. It’s not often I see injectors topping out in a naturally aspirated motorcycle. Should’ve posted a vid of the oscilloscope on the bike was just awkward to hold it and load the bike up so high. Thanks for your input.

@@thebikeguru91 Would you by chance know what factory Kawasaki injectors would be higher flowing than the stock ones in the 17+ Ninja 650?

As far as I’m aware they are 240cc injectors but please don’t hold me to this I will have to do some research to be sure. If I were to choose a set I’d probably use a set of 2007 zx10 injectors they 330cc the newer zx10s are 400cc. Just have to be sure you use injectors that have the same hole and spray pattern.

@thebikeguru91 I believe older 650s had higher flowing injectors as well. The 2017+ ninja 650 injectors also just look generic with no markings. The vulcan s and older 2016 and below ninjas use EAT287 injectors which seem to be higher flowing. I think the 38mm throttle bodies I'm getting will have those injectors. I guess we'll see when I order and get everything in.

Sounds like your on the right track I’ll investigate best route when client comes back for more mods. Thanks for that info will look into it for sure. All the best with your mods. 👊🏻

It was a pleasure to tune it. Thank you so much for your feedback.

That will definitely be done bud thanks. Looking forward to tuning it for you.

Amazing thanks for sharing. Yes certainly if you do engine mods it’ll be a weapon down the quarter mile. They are certainly impressive machines. Thank you for your comment. Good to know there is a large amount of M109 owners cause these bikes are certainly very underrated.

@@thebikeguru91 Haven't even considered opening the motor yet. I am however toying with the idea of forced induction (low boost for stock internals) when funds allow it. Should make for an even more interesting ride then. 😁

The new clutch model is definitely a bike worth owning. How far we have come from the 80’s. Glad to be a part of this era of tech advancement. Yea with euro 5 bikes ECU flash is a sure way to enjoy the most out of your investment. Thanks for your comment.

What do you want to know? Happy to give advise or info

Hi unfortunately at this stage all our flashes are custom on bike flashes. I will be expanding my service in the future to accommodate mail in service.

​@@thebikeguru91 Hey guru, where are you located, for a tune ?

Hi is 1000$ for flash and tune.

Good day, possibly your reading it wrong the gain on power and torque is all the way from bottom to top. If you look at the colours on the final numbers they correlate to the graph colours so you can see massive torque and power gains right through the rpm range. HP was 36-85hp and Torque was 45-60nm, the line spacing on the start of the run would be closer as there is a substantial amount of stage cause by the load brake calculations when starting run. But still a positive number compared to pre-run. Thanks for your query.

Thanks for the comment I am so glad you’re enjoying the content and for the direction in what’s interesting. Much appreciated.

Thank you. Appreciate your comment and glad you like my content.

Thank you. Appreciate your comment. Glad you enjoyed the content

Very impressive bike. Very underrated.

Hey Bryl. Been so hectic my side lately. Also got new phone as my other one got destroyed on dyno. They did give me the message. Just been hectic with a few things going on. will give you a shout soon.

That would be great gerald talk soon bleesed B,

Hi we didn’t purchase them in Australia but I see there is a bike shop that also advertises the KSPP velocity stacks. Think it’s dyno bike that I saw them advertised. Or you can order the oem full power stacks from Honda part number 17225-MJE-DBO (you need 2 of them).

Yes you can look into the airbox and see if the velocity stacks are closed off. Alternatively get a dyno run.

@@thebikeguru91 Don't I have to open up the bike to look into it?

Only the airbox where filter sits you can see the velocity stax from there. Bit of stripping required but if it’s lams (learner approved motorcycle) it’s restricted model

@@thebikeguru91 i got a 2024 cb650r, on the papers is says L3e-A3, 0.34kw/kg and 70kw. Comes straight from the honda dealer with 0km so it should be unrestricted I think but all the comments everywhere are making me doubt as if 35kw motors go around without the buyer knowing it actually is one..

Well you will for sure know if it’s a restricted bike because it doesn’t have the airflow and it’s been leaned out on the fueling to accommodate the restriction you would feel it loose all it’s power at higher rpm. If it doesn’t pull linear straight through it’s not unrestricted.

Thanks for your comment, much appreciated. Really glad you enjoyed the content I will certainly try fix the noise and use tripod next time. I agree the head mount is a bit erratic.

No not quite, the stacks we install are dual stage larger volume stacks so they will have a slightly different result to just machining out restriction. But yes it won’t be a massive difference. Yes flowing more air into engine and getting smoother flow out as well as correcting the low airflow tune on the ECU will do the trick. If you just do stacks and not ECU you will certainly run to lean and blow motor.

Good day, the reason for that is most manufacturers give you a crank power output as they use engine dyno’s not chassis dyno’s. This does not factor in losses which we call transmission losses this term is the loss of power caused by the drag factors like clutch, gearbox, length of swing arm, chain and sprockets, tire and any component that is linked to the crankshaft. Therefore you can find that the claimed power output is around 10-15% more then what the rear wheel power reading is, on a shaft drive motorcycle the losses are even up to 20%. This is the reason for not seeing the spec the manufacturer claims, however I could set my dyno up to give a crank reading by altering the calibration to ad the 10% but I feel clients are riding on the rear tire not the crankshaft so I prefer an actual real world power reading rather then crank power as do most of the other tuners out there, that said if a chassis dyno does not have a load brake it is then a crank reading as no losses can be calculated when starting the run by using the brake to calculate the actual losses to factor into the final equations. I hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching my Chanel and for your question which is a good one.

@@thebikeguru91 OH my never knew this, never new dyno can inflate numbers. Thank you for this insight

Pleasure yes all dyno’s read differently due to how they set up or what type of dyno. At the end it’s just an expensive ruler it measures a base number then you do work then it measures the gain. If you have environment sensors and load brake you can get repeatable numbers in various temp conditions. That’s why it’s always funny to me how people argue about numbers. So many variables. Keep well. Hope you enjoy my channel

Thank you for your comment. Sounds like you’re doing the right thing by upgrading your bottom end first specially the oil pump and you’ve strengthened the bottom with the crank. I’ve seen to many failures on harleys that guys put massive big bore kits in and upgrade only the lifers and cam. All the money spent but no oiling system upgrade. Sounds like you have the right mind set to modifying your Harley. Glad you enjoying my content. Where are you located?

Personally I really like the Honda cb650r but the MT07 is also great. I think it’ll be a personal choice if you like I can overlay the 2 power curves of both models tuned and send them to you. Then you can see where each one makes its power and see if it suites your application. Let me know.

Good day in Cairns Queensland Australia. Sorry for delay in reply.

Glad you’re happy with it. Beast of a bike man. Temped to get one for myself. Thank you

Good day, I’m quite sure it can be restored to full power mode. The platform I use has not yet added MV to their tune list so unfortunately you’d need to look for someone who uses ECU unleashed or flash tune possibly. Then you could load in the programming. But normally if they restrict the power they limit the throttle opening or restrict the airflow so maybe get someone to remove the tank and pop open the air box and check the velocity stacks and throttle wheel to make sure no obvious restrictions.

Hi. Nice bike, if its 2024 model yes it would be the euro 5 then yes the electronics and ECU would also be load based and operate the same. Where do you live? Glad you enjoyed the video

@@thebikeguru91 im in Tampa florida, nices videos!!! 👍🏻

Hi thanks so much for your message, that’s a very good question. Unfortunately I have not been given the opportunity to tune a lams bike in stock form as yet. Most of the clients have wanted the trainer wheels taken off so only full power mods. Possibly the next one I get in I may just setup mapping before changing the stacks for test and information purposes. Many thanks for your interest in my channel and your contribution.

No sir, always compensate for ram air velocity by making peak rpm AFR 12.5:1. Have done many road logs to establish a direction for the best on dyno AFR for correction on the road. Thanks for your message. Much appreciated.

Hallo Roland, danke für deine Nachricht, wow, herzlichen Glückwunsch zum Gewinn dieser Meisterschaft. Früher war ich Renningenieur für viele Teams in Südafrika und im Ausland. Früher fuhr ich auch Rennen, wurde aber so voller Platten und Schrauben überfahren, leider so schlimm, dass es meine Rennkarriere beendete. Mein Becken war in 5 Teilen, also Showstopper. Danke, dass du meinen Kanal gesehen hast. Ich kann Afrikaans sprechen, es ist sehr nah an Deutsch.

@@thebikeguru91 Thank you for the Congrats 🙏 Last Year was the first Year for for the Trophy Championship after the Covid Time and the first Trophy650 with the new Model CBR650R. I am retired, Age 63 and all my Opponents was unexperienced young Men, so it was easy for me to win. But i have Problems with my CBR that is the Reason, i always searching in Internet for Information about this Bike 😉 In past, in Switzerland i was have a own Testbench for Bikes and was prepare for Racing, most i was work with Powercommander from Dynojet but in Thailand have now no One importe the Powercommander and i am far away from the next Testbench. My first ask to you: do you have a all Gear Diagram from the 650 ? I mean the CBR650 is in the Gear 5 and 6 restricted. I am not sure because i never was see a Diagram from Gear 6 and nobody was talk about this, even the Technican from Honda Thailand. I mean, the 6. Gear have a Overdrive Function, long Transmission, less Ignitiontiming. That is Reason i only use the first 4 Gears with a 16Z Sproket, i never upshift to 5 or 6. My Topspeed in Buriram is in Gear 4, 223 km/h by 12'400 rpm. And my Bike is lean to much. I have a Stock ECU, a Akra Exhaust, no Airfilter only a Iron Net, i have the KSPP Lams.

I can check the restriction and get back to you on that. When I do the cbr650 lams the restriction is the velocity stacks only the ecu is tuned for those velocity stacks so the injection time is totally wrong when you fit the performance stax. So I normally change the fueling and timing a lot to get max MBT and correct fueling on the ECU I have not seen speed restriction. You could be running so lean that it’s causing bike to run out of power. Best thing you could do is get it run on a dyno in 5th gear and send me the dyno graph (hp, Nm and AFR curve) to see what’s happening. What year model is your bike? Also what is the ECU part number I can check the type of ECU and see what’s going on in the map.

@@thebikeguru91 I have no Chance for go to a Dyno, the next is 650 km far me. I have the Model 2019 and this Model is overheating too. Many Crashes because the Coolant sprayes to the Reartyres. I was modyfied my Cooling System. I was test many different Sprokets, Front and Rear. Even a 14/44 can not rev a Gear 6 over 11'600 rpm But if i make the Transmission so short, i not can use the Gear 2 in Buriram, the Track is to fast. So for me the best Way is 16/42, maybe 16/41 is better but this Sprokets i will get only in the 520 Size and to now i use the Stock 525 Chain. With the Tyres i have some Option for adjust to. I use Pirelli and my fastest Laptimes going with the Super Corsa 180/60 but in 2 Pionts on the Lap, i running into the Limiter. With the Superbike Slick 190/60 have a few more Diameter so the RPM Level is a few lower and i loose Laptime. I will searching now for a ECU Flash for not lean to much and for delete the Limiter, for can a few more Over Rev.

That’s a pity no dyno close by. As far as the overheating goes, have you removed your thermostat but left in the outer restrictor? You only cut out the sensor that opens and put plate back with the jiggle valve facing upwards to get the air out. Also I was under the impression that it’s against the racing regulations to run coolant in race motorcycles so we used either aqua clear and distilled water or to use mocool which is race approved no glycol coolant. Ok I am back at work on Monday I will take a look at the software and get back to you. Maybe you should invest in a wideband AFR gauge to fit to your motorcycle so you can check the fueling while riding this is a good alternative if you can’t get to a dyno. They can be bought cheap for like 30$ even off AliExpress. Best to get one that used a LM 4.2 Bosch style wide and sensor. Must display actual AFR not just dots saying lean or rich they no good. Getting data will be the only way to get your bike sorted properly. I’ll check if I can do bench flash on your model then your welcome to mail me your ecu to flash. Will get back to you on this.

Thanks ☺️

Thanks for commenting but I have no clue what you just said 😂😂😂sounds like you know what you want though.

Total build cost me in the region of R350k (South African Rands) that’s not including my labour.

Hey Bryl, good to hear from you. Hope you like my channel. And can’t wait to see what you’ve done with the bike. It’s a beast and I will be honest I miss it lol 😂, will be building another beastie soon.

G I just wanted to see if you can explain how to check air shifter timing and to set and am still improving on her and hasn't gone for first fly as yet 😊

Hi Bryl, that shifter is an HM plus it doesn’t utilise air, it was calibrated on the dyno but you basically hold the black button on the back of the control module then key on it’ll count down 5 to 0 when it hits zero release and it will be in programming mode, from there you tap black button to cycle through the settings and and hold down to move to the next setting once you’ve gone through them it’ll revert back to Home Screen

Hi gerald i will gove it a gp just do i have the bike running or with ignition on or off 2:07

Bike not running. If you want GP shift you only need to turn the linkage 180 degrees then set the shifter from c (compress) to e (extend) and it will be GP style 1 up and 5 down setup

Sorry not sure what your asking I’m based in Queensland Australia

Made 380hp at 10psi boost

Nicely done