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I'm not sure I understand your question. Your brick and mortar joints (between the brick) are waterproof. The water is fine to weep out on the sloped, exterior brick rowlock (sill). Once you drill the weep holes, water should not be able to overflow to the interior. If the window is still leaking after weep holes are drilled in, then you have another, more serious problem.

Glad it helped!

This is only a suggested repair based on the known source of this particular leak. I didn't bother to show the test because It's up to you to determine if this method of repair works for your application. It will not work on all models of window as there are many different frame designs. Worst case, if it doesn't work then seal the holes up and try something else. You will have at least eliminated a potential source and now you can move on to other possible leak sources. You have to run your own tests as each application is unique.

It could be. There are a lot of factors that play into windows leaking like that. Try to see if the window has a way to drain the water from the sill. All windows have some way of dealing with the water. Some have weep holes and others have sloped sill to allow for run off. usually if the sill isn't sloped then there should be weep holes located somewhere. The most common cause of water showing up on a ceiling that has a window above it is bad window frame seams. Specifically, the corners of most windows either are "welded" together (such as a vinyl window) or they will have a mechanical connection with sealed joint. When the welded or sealed joint is damaged or becomes defective water can leak through and drip down inside the wall. This may not be the cause of your particular issue but it's worth checking out. Hope this helps.

Before creating weep holes, check the exterior of the windows to see if there is a gap or any space where the glass and frame touch. This space can be caused by years of expansion and contraction of window materials as well as deteriorating, aging sealant. A very common leak source comes from water running down the exterior glass surface and then entering the window through a space between the glass and the window frame. If this is the case, the gap or space can be sealed up with a clear silicone caulk to stop the leak. Hopefully this helps! Thank you for watching our video!

Sorry your having leak issues. I'm curious as to what the window were planning to inject. There isn't much that they could do that you couldn't. My guess is they plan on "injecting" a clear, silicone caulk where the water is coming to plug the leak. This is something you can do. I recommend a neutral-cure, clear, silicone caulk if you can find some. Silicone will stick to the glass and frame of the window very well under most conditions. Seal the leak from outside. Hopefully you can tell where the water is coming in from outside. I hope this is enough info to answer your question. I tried to keep it simple. I hope you are able to get it sealed up! Thank you for watching our video!

Sorry to hear about the install error. We see this happen from time to time. To answer your question, I would have to see the style and model of the doors frame to know for sure. Are the roller tracks that the sliding panel ride on at the top of the door, since the frame is in upside down? That would be my main concern. Without the tracks on bottom, the door will not operate properly. I would only be concerned about the weep holes on top if the door is directly exposed to the weather. In other words, is there an overhang or porch above the sliding door to help shed water? If there is and the door opens, closes, and locks without issue then you should be fine. If not, then your best option is to have the door pulled out and reset. I sincerely hope you are able to get this resolved. Thank you for watching our video!

Thank you so much! I wil get pictures and videos when I get home. Is there a link a can send them to..? Again, thank you for your reply!!

@@toriolson7877 sure. Send the pictures to office@weathersealinc.com. I'll take a look.

The horizontal opening allows dirt and other debris to pass through with minimal clogging. The issue with just drilling holes is they have a tenancy to clog up fairly easy. If drilling holes is your only option, then it may be better than no weep holes at all. That said, you will need to plan to clean them out often with a piece of wire or a toothpick. Hope this helps your decision! Thanks for watching!

@@weathersealwindowsdoors8105 Thanks.

In all of the vinyl insulated windows we deal with there are typically two weep holes on the front exterior bottom of the windows. They might be caulked over. That happens quite a bit.

How do you know if you have vinyl or aluminum?

We see this happen a couple of times a year. In most cases just sealing the weep holes with a clear silicone should prevent any water infiltration of the frame. Besides, there is a risk if you choose to drill in "non-factory" weep holes. If you don't get the correct depth and placement then you can actually cause a leak as opposed to preventing one. In most cases if the entire surface of the exterior window frame is sealed (like a fish aquarium) then there should be no way that water can get into the frame anyway. In the event you do end up seeing water on the inside rim of the frame at some point (which is doubtful) then you might carefully consider drilling weep holes. Bottom line is once you seal up the weep holes that are incorrectly positioned, you should be just fine. Hope this helps!

I'm replying from the wrong account but If you want to clean the caulk out of the weep holes I would suggest a cheap set of dentil picks from Harbor Freight. They will allow you to reach into the weep hole opening and dig the dried caulk out. I have had to do this on a job or two in the past. I hope this is helpful. Thank you for watching our video!

It depends on the manufacturers design. Most fixed (picture) vinyl insulated windows do have weep holes even though they don't open or operate. Aluminum or wood framed windows typically do not. Thank you for your question.

Yes. There are a couple of other possibilities as well. Try water testing your window. This is where you use a water hose and lightly spray the window starting from the bottom. In 12" increments slowly work your way up spraying the window on the outside while someone on the inside watches for water. Once you spray a 12" tall, horizontal strip the width of the window with no water coming through. Go up 12" more inches. Spray that. If no leak go up 12" more, etc. Eventually you will find where the water is coming through or at least an approximate area to examine closer. Thank you for your comment. I hope this is helpful.

@@weathersealwindowsdoors8105 we found out that the weeping holes were siliconed and closed off. I’m not sure how that happened. It’s been an ongoing issue for us. I’m thinking that it’s been that way since we bought the house.

@@dianesullivan9126 hopefully opening those back up will solve the problem!

@@dianesullivan9126 Just got a window put in the master by the pros June '21, it has leaked ever since install. I think they flashed over the weep holes. their solution. blast the sill weep hole full of caulk....just found this video and caulk/quad is now dry. Guess I get new windows cause there is no digging that stuff out with the expectation of proper performance for the life of the window.

This may not work, but those internal blinds are operated by two sets of rare earth magnets located inside the "action" of the blind operator also known as the slide. What you are describing sounds like the handle of the sliding operator has slid down to where only one of the sets of magnets are connecting. I usually fix this by pulling down on the operator a bit then quickly snatching it back up until I feel the magnets reconnect again. You'll know it's fixed when you slide it up or down without it disconnecting so easily. I hope this makes sense and I hope you are able to fix it!

Glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching!

Yes. Repurposed as an adapter. I'm not sure as it's order by the part number not the size. We have to order it on a roll 1000ft at a time.

Weather Seal Windows & Doors I have a Peachtree Citidel slider that I need to replace the weatherstripping between the sliding door and the stationary door. Should this work for my application? If so what items would I need and how much?