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Paul Lewis
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 20 พ.ค. 2011
Skirting scribe joint
How to create a simple internal angle scribe joint to bull-nose skirting. for more complicated skirting the process is the same.
มุมมอง: 19 020
วีดีโอ
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It looks like the thin bit of the skirting is sitting above the skirting it's joining to
Very basic but it works. I was brought up to use my saw stock with a double notch that held the door nice and plumb.Then I later in invented the gravity clamp called Magic Gripper. The interesting bit is my prototype was created in wood with other of the shelf parts. So you can sill make them cheap if money is a tight. Is this a college environment?
Great job mate. Only two minor observations. One is that you had an awful lot of play (movement) on that door. Wouldn't it be better to really lock it down while hammering and putting pressure on it? Just curious. And secondly wouldn't it be better (safer) to use some type of larger mallet (rubber or wooden) to drive the chisel in? Anyone care to answer that, I'd appreciate it. It's my first attempt at doing it. I'm very handy with tools since my dearly departed dad (who passed in 2022 at the age 94) was a master carpenter and taught me young on how to handle tools.
Hi, Yes, fair observations. I was using a door 'Shooting block' which a lot site carpenters make from scrap wood, it is just a short piece of 100x50mm which uses a wedge in a shallow housing, I have been using them for years and feel happy using one. Some might use a workmate. But I can see in the video how it looks unstable. Many site carpenters just use hammers, mallets are generally used by bench joiners. Mallets are large in comparison and as a site carpenter I just wouldn't use one or have room for one in a tool kit. Also I feel it is just whatever your preference may be. I was taught by 'old school' carpenters when I was younger and am aware of how much knowledge they had. I hope you manage to fit your hinges ok.
Legend. Thanks mate
Hi Excellent work, although I need clarification as you marked out the undercut but didn't undercut it. You cut straight down.
I did undercut the vertical cut slightly, I exaggerated when I showed the undercut prior to making the cut. As long as it undercut by less than square it will be fine. Thank you for your comment I hope this video helps you.
I did it with Woodglut.
Thanks so handy and all material from scrap on site Chris
Great video But wont work with MDF boards. Too weak. 🤬
Cheers Paul.👍👍👍👍👍👍
Waste of time
Use a tenon saw next time, much easier
Very nice job. If you don't mind me saying, I'd get rid of that workmate and make a saw horse to a height that's more comfortable for your height. You shouldn't have to clinb onto the work piece
I agree, I'm a little short at 5'2" so most workmates are a bit high. Always difficult to make videos by yourself unless you plan it to the enth degree.. Hindsight is wonderful thing. Thanks for the positive comment.
Yes, possibly agree but I had it set up to the right height for when I was using the mitre block..When filming there are always things that can be done better unless you have lots if time for editing.. Thank you for commenting. I hope it helps you.
Marking gauge and better vice recommended 🔨🪚👍
Yet exactly my observations as well. Very important points. Also a mallet instead of a metal hammer would be safer. He almost missed completely on one of his first blows. 😱😩🤪🔨❌💥🙈....🤔⚒️✔️ Mallet would provide a wider surface area and cause less trauma to the hand in case of a miss or slip. Especially since the butt of most chisels are rounded. To make a solid strike you really need to hit it perfectly or you risk hitting yourself! 😖😫👍🏼🤬🗣️👀🧑⚖️ Also that door was moving a lot while he was striking it. The vice suggestion is very well taken and important. 🗜️ Aside from that....AN AWESOME JOB on the technique, and instructions. VERY, HELPFUL and INFORMATIVE. Cheers mate! Thanks for the video! 😉👌🏻😊
very helpful, thanks
Thanks, just what I wanted to see.
You need a better vice to hold the door still....
I'm gonna be honest and say you have to be very good with your router control to do this. Balancing that router is not easy. If I did this every 3rd time I'd screw it up
I would agree, but as with many things practice makes perfect. One of the reasons for using a lighter router allows for easier movement, but it may not be that stable. 35mm thick doors are tricky, 45mm fire door edges are definitely easier tho.
Absolutely brilliant video
That’s a very nice chrome hinge, here in America, the hinges are much bigger. Bigger is better! 🇺🇸
Thanks for taking the time to show this
It's ok to butt your hinge tight up to the door when marking? I usually keep the slight gap on it to prevent bounce back or am I mistaken.
No issue, you can leave a little gap if that suits you. As long as the offset is the same on the door and lining. I have always set mine to the door edge. Just what I was taught when I was 16.
Thanks Paul, I am using this with my online theory group at the moment, very well done and useful, cheers bud, Peter Jones (ex Bath College Tutor)
Glad to be of assistance. I hope you are keeping you well Pete.
Glad to be of assistance. I hope you are keeping well Pete.
Ah, ok, I was wondering what you do about the rounded edges- just finish it off with a chisel.
Hi Victor, I hope it helps. Have fun! Just keep pressure on the base of the router to stop it wobbling.
@@jockey1304Hi Paul, I've found that the biggest problem for me when using my router for things like this, is it tends to travel further along than I want it to, and I end up with a wider rebate than I'd intended. Maybe some sort of end stop would work to stop it moving further to the side? Even just a quick-release clamp on the door...
@@victor9501 Yep. That would work. I try and stay at least 3-4 mm from the end mark and the chisel can easily tske out the last of the recess
@@jockey1304 Yeah, I try to as well, but sometimes it just grabs into the wood :-(
Clever to use the actual hinge to set the depth stop!
Thanks. This video has helped me big time! 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟
So glad I watched this. I was going to do mitre joints. Until now!
Creepy thumb nail but otherwise a nice video - cheers!
Perfect 🏆
Very nice same skirting I'm going to use.thankyou
Just check the walls are pretty plumb in the corners, if not use a bevel to mark / check for a square cut.. Have fun...
Thanks Paul. I need to fit offset hinges for my Mum in a wheel chair, but finding it hard to find them in UK. Any advice ?
Search for Triple knuckle projection butt hinge or Swing Clear Cranked hinge. Hafele are one of the many available brands.
Nice video thank you
Great, thank you
Thank you, you saved me. Got the same router and tried to use it for the hinges but had no idea how to use it, and that piece of timber on the fence is brilliant. I will try again now. Thank you again.
Well done. Thanks for the help.
Thanks for video Paul.Very helpfull.
get yourself a little palm router easy.
Depth stop trick. Awesome :)
Thanks for this Very helpful
Super awesome. Thank you.
Good video. Ill give it a crack !
Don't say that word! :-))
Top bloke
Better with a palm router easier to hold and steady
True blue Bears Got an example or video to clarify that?
You could title this How to hinge a slab door in six minutes, I believe the term "Spot On" applies here. The tip about setting the depth is gold! Thanks for letting us look over your shoulders!
No jig needed. Excellent.
Helpful video mate, cheers!
That's a good video I'm going to try that this week. Thanks
Love it good man
Nice tutorial - cheers!
Crossheads on a door hinge!!!!!! WTF!!!! My grandad would be turning in his grave!!!!
what's a Crosshead?
He must be spinning then. All modern hinges have cross headed screws:)
Great explanations!!