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Send an email to info@hush.info please

I love the criticism, tell us more about what we did wrong here. We will do better for you next time.

I don’t see anything wrong with this technique, you will have 2 different modes peaking out in the 2 ceiling cavities. That shouldn’t affect the reduction too much. I normally try to stay away from dropping a new ceiling under an existing ceiling unless the original is a thick plaster from a 100 yr old building. I think key would be to have 3 layers of 5/8 Sheetrock minimum.

Yes, MLV is very difficult to handle, we find that cutting it into smaller section makes it easier to manage. Over lapping and or taping the seams with vinyl tape works well.

Still wearing it!

@@Lo5icaL0n3 Thank you.

I’m not really sure I understand the question? What type of gap?

Do you need another explanation for something?

1lb MLV, staples

says the idiot who thinks you're breathing air threw the door gaps....

That is definitely the most difficult part, figuring out if you have a window or a door. .

I don’t like the way steel resonates, I would go with 1 3/4” solid core wood.

You could do it, I would just lighten up the drag on the door sweep, pull it up so it’s just touching the carpet barely. A lot of the sound that might transfer through that bottom gap will be absorbed by the carpet, depending on the thickness of the carpet.

If I handed you a 4 x 8’ cut of MLV and let you hold it in your right arm and 2 tubes of green glue in your left arm, you wouldn’t think twice about which one would physically stop more sound. We don’t use it anymore. It’s too magical for us.

We’re not trying to impress you. It’s free knowledge. Read a little. Start with the description, then move to the comments.

@@HushSoundproofing lol I see why your subscription number is so low for sure now. I was being nice. Your video SUCKED!!! Anyone attempting to do this on their own without any construction knowledge would be lost af. You didn’t cover tools, methods or any scenarios. I mean my f-ing lord most people have carpet as well and you didn’t cover that either. I wouldn’t hire you to trim my hedges lol.

Start with the seal, see where you’re at, then replace the door.

A second door would help. What is this a podcast room? Radio show? Soundproof door with an auto closing door seal would be the best.

Yes, you want to open and close frequently while installing so you can still open and close.

@@HushSoundproofing I’m reluctant to install the weather stripping for fear that the door casing will crack further!

@@stephenflynn7600 if you measure the gaps, you would want to buy weather stripping with the correct size compression, it should be snug but not hard to close.

Two methods on the same door! The peel and stick works, I just reinforced it with screws. You could use a grinder to cut the metal or a metal saw. Best of luck with the project!

What is frustrating? What part do you need help with?

@@HushSoundproofing all of it! Can I send pics of how I am installing it?

@@stephenflynn7600I’m willing to help, I don’t have time to walk you through the whole process individually. Please ask a specific question.

@@HushSoundproofing I sent a picture , don’t know if you have seen it?

@@HushSoundproofing I think I know what I did wrong? I was attempting to install the Frost King Door Set on the door latch side of the door.

I’m sorry to hear that, no self closing mechanism? They are required in New York now. I think any attempt to pad the door will help. The solution may be replacing the door though.

@@HushSoundproofing there is a industrial grade damper on every door in the building, though it's obvious the management doesn't care to maintain some of them. The lobby door for our entire floor for example slams like a nuclear bomb all day long even though it has one, but the one on the floor the management lives on somehow closes perfectly nice and clean lol. I had them check my neighbors damper, and I did notice they went and checked it, but either they just didn't fix it or the neighbor is pulling it to a slam regardless.

@@jamesalphonse1099 you know, there are people out there that are just uncontrollably ignorant to others around them. More than that, they stomp when they walk, and slam every door and talk as though everyone is deaf. These folks keep us in business. You got to talk to the guy and see if he will allow you to spend some money on his door to get yourself some peace. We often times become mediators in scenarios like this one. It’s not easy. Best of luck.

@@HushSoundproofing unfortunately I'm about 99% sure he is doing this on purpose. This is a refurbished factory with concrete floors and cielings and really well insulated walls, you essentially have to be screaming to be heard through the walls. Since this guy moved in he was obnoxiously loud, first with music from the early afternoon to the late night/early morning every day, then later on with constant non stop barking for something like 12 hours every day. I complained about the music stuff to the management a couple times, and left a couple notes under his door asking him to train his dog for separation anxiety so it would stop barking, I think between those two things he hated/hates me and decided he would start slamming his door because noise ordinance laws have nothing about that and the land lord won't make him stop it. He also started screaming like a banshee for hours 2 or 3 nights a week either at his dog or at whatever sportsball game happened to be on. By the time the door slamming thing came around I lost my cool and did what I shouldn't have done; confronted him again but this time angrily saying he was causing me panic attacks and anxiety. He immediately put on unmistakable smug face and said, "I'm just letting the door shut under it's own weight!" And I called him a jackass because his door hadn't been slamming all along. The truth is, he is just a prick and has no ability to have consideration for his neighbors.

@@jamesalphonse1099 mmm sorry about that. Sounds about right. I’m guessing you may be experiencing a structural vibration issue coupled with the higher frequency airborne noise. The combination can really get your blood going. Noise ordinances are all grey with a tiny black and white line on the borders. Continue applying pressure. Something will give. I would take as many steps as possible on my own door and walls. Problem is noise like that can be coming from everywhere, hvac, electrical plumbing… you name it. I hate to say this but if it doesn’t stop soon, for your own health, I would consider moving. In extreme cases it might be best to remove yourself from the situation. I hope this works itself out. Best of luck.

I’m going to say no, this is just going to reduce sound by a few decibels. I think the reduction you’re looking for would be the combination of 2 doors or a single soundproof door.

@@HushSoundproofing I have noticed a reduction along with using door sweeps. I think you’re correct with the double door. I’m going to also apply some acoustic caulk and see how that does 🤘🏼🥁

@@mattnormandrums consider taking the trim/molding off the door and filling the gap with spray foam, I like to shave the spray foam after it’s cured and seal with acoustical caulk. I have no doubt you will figure it out. You’re a drummer, smartest man in the band

@@HushSoundproofing hahaha nice. Thanks man. Let you know how it goes

I believe lathe and plaster serve a purpose if they are already incorporated into the existing structure of an older build. Sometimes we see plaster that is 3-4” thick that noise is still transferring through. In combination with other materials plaster is a good sound reducer. It’s definitely not the single answer to your noise issues. Many materials with different densities, that’s the key to getting a great reduction. Sonopan does not look like a product we would consider using in our treatments. That doesn’t mean it’s not going to help, I just don’t see the value in the material if I have to choose between MLV and Sonopan. The difference would night and day. I hope this help, best of luck with the soundproofing projects.

MLV does not have the same give as neoprene or foam weather stripping. Also, it will be difficult to keep the MLV attached to the door if you use it as a door sweep. It will tear over time. If you put a strip behind a floor sweep it will help, but it’s not a solution. I think that’s what everyone needs to understand about this video, it’s what I like to call a “bandaid”. It’s not a solution. The more we layer the bandaid the better protection we get. There is a point at which we need to consider, is it worth the trouble to do all this work when we can purchase a soundproof door or at least a solid core door with a real $500 door seal.

You could definitely try some weather stripping to see how that works for you. I would say yes.

So you tried replacing the gaskets? amzn.to/32Zzu4s , are you trying to contain noise or isolate the garage from outside noise? What type of noise?

@@HushSoundproofing I did the top and side weatherstrips with the standard home center nail-on exterior flange seals, and found the results largely underwhelming. I haven’t done the bottom gasket, but couldn’t hurt. There’s no air gap or visible leakage from the bottom, so I don’t think it would improve much. Machinery noise in a brick veneer single car garage. Table saw/dust collector/jointer etc. I stripped the entire garage back to studs, sealed every crack and gap around the exposed exterior sheathing in the stud bays, filled them with rockwool, then added 5/8 full weight fire code drywall overtop. gluing around each stud bay to prevent further leakage. Ceiling has 24” of cellulose insulation sitting above it. Really the only remaining issue is the garage door- and I wish now I would have put more attention to it earlier on. Standing 40’ from the door at the end of my driveway, I’m still reading 55db on a dead silent 2am night.

@@danervin2530 I hate to tell you this but that garage door needs to go, you need to build a double studded wall with 2 doors that have a small corridor between them. You could also build or purchase a few gobos, often used in studios to separate instruments during live recordings. This should cut a couple db off the top end, human perception of sound relates 60db to being twice as loud as 50db. So 2-3 db reduction can be life changing. Also 55db is not loud, sound weakens over distance, it’s very possible you aren’t bothering people as much as you think.

@@HushSoundproofing I appreciate the feedback! I had a feeling that’s what it would come down to 😭. I knew the principal of a gobo, but didn’t know the term, so you just opened up a whole new stream of ideas and searches. Thank you!

amzn.to/3HmVvsJ The reason I suggest using this is because the vinyl is heavy. You might want to staple it to the door in a few spots to hold it up. I suggest cutting smaller pieces, will make it easier to deal with