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NCTradLines&Boulder
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 19 ก.พ. 2024
A TH-cam Channel set up just for NC sport and Trad routes along with NC Boulders. With beta breaks and pure climbing at its focus.
Walk The Plank, 5.8/9 Trad Lead, 4K POV
Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
Starts just to the right of Lost at Sea, on the lower side of the arete feature. Move up into a corner, pull up and follow the weakness up until you come to a juggy traverse left toward the anchors of Lost at Sea.
Watch out for loose rock and test holds carefully - the base of the chimney has a large loose block. Be careful esp w/ large parties that often congregate in the area at the base of the upper tier.
With a good directional piece or two up high the whole route can be set as an alternate top-rope by leading Lost at Sea (folks often do the start and merge w/ Lost at Sea w/o directionals)
Standard rack.
Starts just to the right of Lost at Sea, on the lower side of the arete feature. Move up into a corner, pull up and follow the weakness up until you come to a juggy traverse left toward the anchors of Lost at Sea.
Watch out for loose rock and test holds carefully - the base of the chimney has a large loose block. Be careful esp w/ large parties that often congregate in the area at the base of the upper tier.
With a good directional piece or two up high the whole route can be set as an alternate top-rope by leading Lost at Sea (folks often do the start and merge w/ Lost at Sea w/o directionals)
Standard rack.
มุมมอง: 214
วีดีโอ
Hindu Kush 5.9 P1, Direct Start Shiprock, NC. 4K Lead POV
มุมมอง 4307 ชั่วโมงที่ผ่านมา
What a bad piece! All wrong. But I was able to notice the problem and correct. The worst part of this climb was the hollow flake ledge. SCARY. That was my fully body weight and my last piece of gear. I'm still a new climber but at least im starting to notice what needs correcting! Bright side thinking. A nice warm up route and worth a climb! A single rack should see you through any of the varia...
Harpoon, 5.10a Trad Lead 4K
มุมมอง 52812 ชั่วโมงที่ผ่านมา
Flash! Crux is at the bottom and its obvious. Check out my stress of not being able to find the correct gear. Thankfully I was able to calm down and go at it with a level head! Loved this climb. Need to come back and do it again. Trad, 50 ft (15 m) At the very top of the main tier you can find this obvious left-leaning crack that climbs into an alcove. Climb the cracks, through the thin crux up...
Cleaning A Trad Route, 4K. How I get my gear.
มุมมอง 52319 ชั่วโมงที่ผ่านมา
I get this question a lot by non climbers and new trad climbers. This is how you collect your gear from a route. Sorry for the wind! But you get the idea.
Edge of a Dream, 5.7 Raw Footage 4K Trad Lead
มุมมอง 430วันที่ผ่านมา
Easiest 5.7 lead in NC for sure. Loads of places for pro and makes for fun photos. This is a must for, really anyone! Trad, 70 ft (21 m) Edge of a Dream starts on the right side of the Amphitheater. Begin on any of the horizontal crack systems on the right hand wall. Work out toward the arete and pull around the corner. As you pull around the corner take a moment and soak in the view. Follow th...
Resurrection Ramp, P2 5.7, 4k Trad Lead
มุมมอง 4921 วันที่ผ่านมา
Resurrection Ramp, P2 5.7, 4k Trad Lead
Safari Jive, in damp conditions - 5.8 - P1 Trad Lead, 4K
มุมมอง 98หลายเดือนก่อน
Safari Jive, in damp conditions - 5.8 - P1 Trad Lead, 4K
Second Coming, 5.7*** Last 210' (Looking Glass, S Side) 4K
มุมมอง 855หลายเดือนก่อน
Second Coming, 5.7 Last 210' (Looking Glass, S Side) 4K
I've got One Piece in!! Second Coming, Pitch 1 (short version)
มุมมอง 276หลายเดือนก่อน
I've got One Piece in!! Second Coming, Pitch 1 (short version)
Cleaning gear from "Unknown Flake" 5.11R** or "Raven Till Dawn" @Raven Rock, Main Wall
มุมมอง 144หลายเดือนก่อน
Cleaning gear from "Unknown Flake" 5.11R or "Raven Till Dawn" @Raven Rock, Main Wall
John Myers Memorial Dihedral 5.10b/c **** Leading with fixed Trad Gear 4K
มุมมอง 252หลายเดือนก่อน
John Myers Memorial Dihedral 5.10b/c Leading with fixed Trad Gear 4K
A La Mode, 5.8**, Sport Climb, Rumbling Bald 4K
มุมมอง 652 หลายเดือนก่อน
A La Mode, 5.8 , Sport Climb, Rumbling Bald 4K
Leftovers, 5.10a 4K (My hardest Trad lead so far!)
มุมมอง 2592 หลายเดือนก่อน
Leftovers, 5.10a 4K (My hardest Trad lead so far!)
Bookends, 5.6** , Trad Line, @Snake's Den, 4K
มุมมอง 442 หลายเดือนก่อน
Bookends, 5.6 , Trad Line, @Snake's Den, 4K
Granola 5.8+ Trad Lead 4K (Not recommended***)
มุมมอง 1302 หลายเดือนก่อน
Granola 5.8 Trad Lead 4K (Not recommended )
Fruit Loops 5 7+ Trad Lead (Pitch 2) 4K
มุมมอง 722 หลายเดือนก่อน
Fruit Loops 5 7 Trad Lead (Pitch 2) 4K
Fruit Loops 5 7+ Trad Lead (Pitch 1) 4K
มุมมอง 1042 หลายเดือนก่อน
Fruit Loops 5 7 Trad Lead (Pitch 1) 4K
The Nose - Pitch 4 Trad Climbing (@Looking Glass)
มุมมอง 7182 หลายเดือนก่อน
The Nose - Pitch 4 Trad Climbing (@Looking Glass)
THE NOSE!!!! Pitch two Trad Lead 4K (Looking Glass Rock)
มุมมอง 463 หลายเดือนก่อน
THE NOSE!!!! Pitch two Trad Lead 4K (Looking Glass Rock)
What gear did I place on the Nose P2? 5.8
มุมมอง 203 หลายเดือนก่อน
What gear did I place on the Nose P2? 5.8
Be safe 💪🏽😀
@@s.ramanan6275 thanks! I’m tryin 😂 😊
I’ve never climbed trad before but’s it’s so cool, I’ve never seen someone clip into the karabiner through the quick release is there a reason?
Hi! Thanks for the question. Not really 100% sure what you’re asking though. What do you mean by quick release?
For some reason I remember there being a really good thread on that route.
How long ago did you climb it? 😃
I know you joked about this being ASMR at the beginning but legitimately this kind of video is so relaxing. As a climber I would love to see an hour long compilation of you trad leading to put on while I fall asleep. 😂
@@brieoflyng4755 🤫 I do the same thing! That’s why lately I’ve been leaving the music out of the videos. The pure sound of trad gear clinking around and climbing is super relaxing. Until I start the crux moves and breathe like a dying hippo. Thanks for the comment. Maybe I should make a ASMR playlist on my channel. 😂
definitely not enough eyes on this. Loved the video 🖤
Posting mistakes. This is important for learning from. 😂
Next time you climb harpoon give caption blight a run. It’s the crack to the left. Leading it is spicy but you can always top rope of harpoons anchors. Either way good send bud.🎉
Hey bro. Yeah, I got on that. Spicy lead for sure. I sent it on top rope after 9,10 falls. Can’t image leading that! 😂 Not with my skill level at this moment. But, one of these days.
That sling is the sickest trad placement I think I’ve ever seen
@@cricket1772 I thought so! A quick placement and a safe one. Had I missed the clip at the next bolt it would be a near ground fall. Glad I was able to get that there!
Subbed to your channel this week. Watched a bunch of your videos. Absolutely loving the format. Keep it up! Reminds me of FirstPersonBeta's channel.
Hey thanks for the Sub. It’s been exciting to make these videos. Putting your new trad climbing mistakes online for everyone to see is anxious sometimes. Lol. But I’m glad people are liking it!
The fear was palpable…and relatable hahaha. Nice work
@@andrew8445 lol!! Right?! What gave it away?? 😉 Lead it a second time. Wayyyyy way smoother. And controlled breathing
What’s up with the north side though? Cool looking climb, beautiful rock😎👍🏻
South side = mostly slab and lots of moderates. North side = lots of overhanging routes. So, my options are limited there. Hahaha
That #4 feels so good after getting through that crux.
@@topdogpenguin right?? A life saver 🛟 Peace of mind for sure!
An absolute classic! Ever climb the second pitch? It's even better than the first imo.
@@topdogpenguin I have. I’ve got a video of it here. I won’t say it’s better. But different. Very fun for sure!
That crack was screaming for a nut!
Is slinging that flake not like big risk of it breaking?
Yeah why bother slinging on a sport route anyway
@@andrewpatton7009 yeah. Not a bit risk. Putting a cam back there is a big risk. Thanks for asking. But, I’d be happy to hear other people’s thoughts
@@Viperz61 it’s not a sport route. It’s 2 bolts on 70’ route (mixed route). You climb much in NC? We’re famous for only adding bolts when “needed” and usually you get one or two. Also, if I fall clipping the second bolt then it’s very close to a ground fall 😉
No more risky than standing on the flake! Remember that a cam applies an outward force that will pry the flake away. A sling on the flake pulls downward, similar to how we climb. More of a concern would be cutting the sling on a sharp edge if it slid during a fall.
@@mls01981hello. Great point!
Why do you insist on placing the .2, feels like .75 or 1 fits perfectly there, i mean the first placement.
@@Alex-ne8xz it’s a glaring crack. I was told some gear beta. I thought they said your first piece is a .2 then a .4. I was mixed up. The .4 is bomber. You couldn’t do a .75 or a 1 there. I went back for a second go for a much cleaner send. The .4 was perfect the next time. Where I get it it’s slightly constricting in the flaring crack. So, I felt good on it.
nervous and excited! you are literaly spiderman
Thanks man! Fun stinking climb. My new fav. Climbed this one again. Second time = much smoother!
Where is this?
Edge of a dream. @Ship Rock
How to clean an anchor: "you can take me off belay" The whole point of cleaning a sport anchor like this is to never come off belay. You only do that if you are rappelling. There is plenty of content about this online already from people qualified to give it. How long have you been climbing? NC has had deaths due to this. Stick to the climbing footy, Ship Rock is an amazing crag.
Hey. Thanks for the review. I’ve been climbing for a little over a year. It’s clear from my videos as you can see. This video isn’t meant to be a lesson for the general. This isn’t why I didn’t title it as a How To video. It’s more for my local friends who ask how I get my gear back. Good communication is key for sure. My belayer knew I didn’t need to be off belay but rather to give slack. I will agree with you in part. But this would not lead to a death. As before I came off my personal he had taken in the slack and confirmed it.
@@NCTradLines I think he was concerned with you saying take me off belay in a situation where you don't really need to be taken off. What if your belayer didn't know that you meant slack when you said take me off belay (ie a new belayer or partner you haven't climbed with before)? I know you're connected with your pas but it's still a situation where you don't need to be taken off. Not arguing or anything. Everyone has their way of doing things and I'm cool with that
@@climbingbrosNC no. I agree with both of you. But, the only issue with saying take me off belay is that it’s inefficient, yeah? Of course, before coming off my personal I would confirm that I was back on belay and ready to lower. He never took me off belay by the way but even if he did. There would have been nothing wrong with him doing so. Except for the 15 sec it takes for him to load me back up. Honestly, me saying this is a word whisker. I climb a lot of multi pitch and am used to building anchors and not needing to be on belay. Maybe next time I’ll just edit out my mistake before I post. 😝 everyone would be much happier. You get it climbing bros. I’m sure there are plenty of things people comment on with your videos? We can all improve with our comms and climbing beta. Whether we been climbing for a year or a decade or more.
Surprised no one makes a big deal with me saying at 3:15 “all I’ve got to do is, come climb down” when obviously I am not climbing. 😂
@@NCTradLines oh yeah for sure. Always that one guy who climbed in the 80s with just nuts saying how much cooler he is than the rest of us 😎
This was a pointless video.
You don’t get it. Just keep scrolling.
you are definitely not a poser🤣
I was in this moment. For those photos. 😬
I'm a noob and genuinely asking - is that not overcammed a bit?
Thanks for asking. No, it’s not. It’s just about perfect. The question is, is walking possible and if so, will that make it overcammed? In this placement that will not happen. But, thanks for asking! In still a noob myself. And thankfully haven’t gotten a cam stuck… yet!
@@NCTradLinesneat-o, thanks!
Where is this??
Cereal Buttress. At Rumbling Bald @ Lake Lure, NC. Can’t miss it.
It's not a trad climb until you have to push through bush
What do you call it then? 😂 Bush push climbing?
@@NCTradLines tell me, is pulling on roots and branches "in" where you're from?
@@tomquinn7974you tell me. Watch the full video and find one point where I pulled on roots or branches. You’ll even get a wide view with the camera unlike this portrait angel. Then get back to me to let me know that this isn’t trad climbing. 😉
@@NCTradLines I think you misread the first comment and therefore misunderstood the second one
Maybe I can make a more simple reply. No, pulling on roots and branches isn’t typically “in”. But, if you get scared enough, then they are.
how do you know how many pieces of gear to take up the wall with you? and what sizes?
A guide book helps. Or MTN projects (where routes are shared). Typically, I will bring a “standard rack” plus whatever extra the guide books or MTN projects says. If I don’t know anything about the route, then I’ll bring everything. 😂 When you’re new to trad like I still am, then I want to have as much as I can carry. 😝
Damn zero comments let me just fix that
😜
Awesome send! Imo, the stopper at 3:17 could very well have busted that flake off if you fell on it, obv cams are worse in sketchy flakes like that but stoppers can still put a ton of outward force on the rock.
It’s true! TBH, I mostly placed it because it’s a fun placement. Also, because I knew in that section, it’s the easiest climbing of the route.
how much does your gear weigh?
I’m not sure. Maybe 15 lbs for my gear? And 10lbs for the rope?
i'm still worried about snakes for you!!!
Me too! One of these days there will be one. I’m sure of it.
What route is this?
Comatose 5.8 at The Bald
oh its hollow? puts a oiece behind it instead of the other crack
your first piece was almost never going to stop a fall and the second was a B placement at best... should have just soloed it
lol. Ok. Thanks for your info. First piece was over-camed. And deeply placed.
what? both were bomber. Over camming does NOT decrease the strength of the cam.
Zerolin, Some people just comment on things they have no idea what what they are talking about. 🤷♂️
@@NCTradLines He's right about it being hollow though. That was a solid placement but the rock quality there was not. Fun/Easy or not, I wouldn't want that risk, although to each their own. If you had taken a fall there, would you have been comfortable that the flake wouldn't blow?
@@Ceryniful yes. I would have felt 7/10 comfortable to fall on it. But, that’s because I never had a flake ripped from the wall. 😝
My favorite part of watching trad videos is people absolutely munching on cams lol
😋
Never understood why people do stupid shit like this
What makes it stupid?
Also, never understood why people make comments like this 🧐
You’re like Spider-Man! Your shoes have glue on them?
Not glue. Double sided sticky tape. 😝
maybe you need nipple guards
Haha. That Velcro got the nip real good! Thought I was bleeding!
Such a great route! And I knew Drew's voice from the first word he said.
He does have a unique voice. 😅 BTW, thanks for getting Brian some gear!
i'm gonna be honest, for me I would love the lowering part, as a kid I dreamt of being able to repel down on a rope, I lived in florida so there wasnt many things tall enough, even though i tried many repels down from small trees or jungle gyms, but maybe thats why i'm alive today. 😁
I’ll have to film a long rap next time then. We’re doing sundial crack (4 pitches) next week. I’ll have to share a nice video of that. So much fun.
It's very good of course to clip a piece in the anchor as a first piece. However by clipping to the same biner as your cordelette you run the added risc of cutting that cordelette strand in case of a fall onto that piece.
Hey. Thanks for the info. I’ve not thought of that. But that makes total sense. I’ll throw another biner on it from hear on out.
I feel like the calf pump is something no one talks about but it’s so real 😂
Right?!? Climbing the nose here. 4 pitches of slab… Hurts!!! 😅
I enjoyed the full video last night!
Hey! Glad you liked it. Have you climbed the route?
Hey I know him that’s my friend!!!!
😂
When you knocked on the rock it made me physically cringe so hard
Why’s that?
Because I don’t like my joints and knuckles hitting against rough or hard surfaces
@@Mentallyillcats ahh. I see. I’m not knocking hard. Just a little love tap. To see if the rock is good enough quality to place gear in. Sometimes i hit the rock with the cam. I’ll think of you next time I do that. 😜
nice climb! soundtrack name?
It’s in the description. Here you go! Undercover Vampire Policeman by Chris Zabriskie. Thanks for the like! 😊
1
Is 1 the best? 😝
That's a beautiful route with lots of nice features. Looks challenging yet enjoyable. Nice job.
Thanks! Yes. A very fun climb. I will try to lead it next time I’m out there
Cool. I’ll be watching and can’t wait to see you send it
Do you all take turns climbing and belaying?
Exactly. Alex (a guy I met at the local Gym) lead this route. After placing the gear, we pulled the rope and I climbed. Just like I did. Drew (route setter at said local gym) climbed it like I did. Great session for sure!
I know him that’s my friend
My biggest flaw is thinking I could do this
Haha. I’m not the only one then? 😯
finally led this today! so much fun and so many skinks
Awesome! Glad you liked it. 😊
Cn I ask why you don't climb with any nuts?
I do! Just not always. Did you see a good nut placement that I missed? 😬
I’m also new to climbing in general, and placing nuts take a while on vert climbs like this one.
@@WillManess always welcome to share feedback. Being a new Trad Climber (new climber in general) I always welcome feedback. Interesting you mention the not having gear in your mouth while making the one move before you place it. Clearly I don’t do that often as you can see in my videos. But curious. What’s the reason you’re thinking of why that’s not a great idea? As far as me ‘surviving’ that pitch. Are you saying that my gear placements weren’t good in the event of a fall? And that i was lucky that I didn’t fall and got the onsite? Or that me being old and out of shape for a full climb like this and breathing heavy was fearful for you? I will admit to my poor footwork, but when evaluating my gear placements and the fact that I placed loads of gear anyway, I will say that it’s not a lucky survival pitch I made here. But a guy who is definitely pushing his grade. Genuinely, I would love to hear your feedback.