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They have a little O-ring where they install into the port. If the O-ring is used, there’s a good chance that is in need of replacement.

@@rcmaintenance656 Thank you! I noticed that was actually the problem and it was worn and in the way of it sitting all the way in place.

That’s so awesome! I wish I had more time to make more videos. Your experience is exactly why we made this!

Thank you for the kind words! So glad we helped you save a bunch of money!

Your welcome! Glad it was helpful.

It should work fine. You will just need to buy all the parts that match your exact year, make, and model.

Awesome! Love it👍

It can, but not 100%.

Awesome! Great job. Imagine how much you saved doing it yourself 👍

It depends on what you get. The CarPlay units are pretty pricey, but I found that one on a special. The total price was just under $290. Again, CarPlay comparability is the expensive piece. You can get double DIN units that play video and have navigation for cheaper. I like the CarPlay integration because you’re just using your phone on the screen and use your own music, phone, messages, navigation, etc.

Where did you get it I’m trying to buy one with all the stuff you got

T J I’m sorry for the late response-I didn’t see your message until this morning. Did you get it sorted out? The P0010 is likely that intake VVT solenoid, but could be wiring, dirty/clogged screen on the solenoid, to name a few possibilities. The P2270 is a constant lean condition at the heated oxygen sensor. That could be a bad O2 sensor, a result of the sea foam, a symptom of the VVT error, or even an ECM problem. We had a failed UCM that gave no symptom except the CEL (check engine light) for the fuel pump control circuit. I had to get an ECM from the junk yard and program it. Save a ton of money because I was able to get the hardware from the college I teach at. Let us know if you still need assistance or if you got it figured out. Again, sorry for the delay!

​@@Rcworship79 That is alright. Thank you for responding. The problem still exists. I recently changed the oil and oil filter at 2500 km (usually at 5000 km) just to sort out, if it is the dirty oil causing the issue. The oil didn't look bad as I expected. Also I removed the connectors and checked the resistance of intake and exhaust solenoid. The Intake measured auto-range 11 Ω and exhaust measured about 11.5 - 12 Ω fluctuating. I believe it is in the acceptable range? I haven't completely removed the solenoids yet to see what is going underneath (clogged screen?). The car still has rough idle. The check engine light is still on. A strange thing I noticed while driving is CEL sometimes disappear and appears back after sometime accompanied by rough idle. I regularly scan for engine codes back after the drive. So far there are no new codes other than P0010 and P2270. Do you see any connection between these codes? Could they be anyway related to a faulty ECU or wiring? I checked with few workshops and they said it would take 5-6 hours to diagnose. I don't know how much it really costs to fix this issue or if it is something I can do myself. What do you recommend me doing next? Thank you Ryan.

T J Sorry-that last post came from my personal TH-cam account. I would take the solenoids out and look at the screens-and make sure there isn’t junk clogging them up, at least to rule that out. That other code-I gave you some possibilities in the last response. Start with the P0010 and then move on once you’ve sorted that issue out. It is possible that these are indicative of a faulty ecm, but that’ll take some testing.

​@@rcmaintenance656 Np. I'm going to do it today. Yesterday the CEL disappeared and came back again after I drove a bit. This is strange, which made me think could it be result of a faulty wiring or the ECU itself. Anyways I will start with cleaning the solenoids first. I hope a MAF sensor cleaner will do the job. Should I connect the solenoid to a 12V battery to spray clean it completely once they're removed? It has got the "clicking" mechanism inside when 'powered' that I saw from other videos. I'll update how it goes. Thank you Ryan !

​@@rcmaintenance656 Cleaned the intake and exhaust solenoid with MAF sensor cleaner. There was very little clog around it. They were connected to a 12 V supply to clean it completely. I also spray cleaned the MAF sensor with the the MAF sensor cleaner and changed the air filter. Finally cleaned the throttle body (butterfly valve) using a Throttle body cleaner after disconnecting the battery and the connector to TB. There was quite a bit of carbon buildup found inside. Cleaned them with a lint-free towel. I performed the ECU reset and the CEL was gone and found to have come back later. Scanned the OBD to find out the P0010 code again and P2270 disappeared. Performed the electronic throttle body relearn by cranking the car on idle for 3 minutes and ignition turned off for one minute. Performed the procedure thrice. Took the car for a drive accelerating, decelerating and braking through traffic and highway for about 30 kilometres. Noticed the car got increased power and idle RPM fluctuated between 650-1000, Coolant temperature read fine, Mileage got back to 9.5L/100 km from 35L/100km which was previously shown in the instrument cluster after the relearn procedure. The car when comes to a stop while driving or when parked still gives a rough idle with light in the instrument cluster flickering slightly. The battery was replaced 8 months ago. No issues cranking cold start or any other time. Possible suspects responsible for rough idle, when researched discusses about: * Vacuum leak/ Air leak (Injectors/Vacuum tubes) * Air leak at O-rings of intake manifold and fuel rail * Fuel filter * Fuel injector/injector bar * O2 Sensor * Electrical wiring defects * ECU defect * Spark plugs * Throttle body / TBS * Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid * Ignition coil pack * MAP sensor * Spark control unit * Torque converter solenoid * Alternator * Clogged catalytic converter * Timing chain Which one of the above mentioned would you recommend me to be checked next? Please reply when you've time. Thank you.

Autozone.

Reginald Gibby Thank you! We ended up having a bizarre issue with the fuel pump control circuit and ended up having to replace the ECM. No symptom except a check engine light, but it needs to pass a smog test now.

Thank you for the note. The idea behind disconnecting the battery ground when doing any electrical or electronic repairs is to ensure no damage is done to them or the PCM. It is a precautionary measure. In this case, with the key off, there is no power to the solenoid, so there is no real reason to disconnect the battery. Remember, when you disconnect the battery, unless you have a memory saver device, you have to reset clocks and radio stations, and you have to perform a complete drive cycle to run the monitors before you can smog it. Hope this helps.

Tom, You can use a cheap code reader to erase the codes. You can also call your local parts store and see if they can pull codes and erase them for free. "Worst" case, drive it for a few days to a week and the system self-check monitors will run and determine the errors are no longer present, and the service engine light will be turned off. Let us know how it goes.

Yep. After two days the check engine light went off and the car is running smoothly. Thanks again.

The tool I used is from Cornwell tools, the PB-3. You might be able to find one from any of the professional tool trucks or suppliers. Here's a link to the actual one from Cornwell, for your info: corporate.cornwelltools.com/webcat/products/PB3-%252d-16%E2%80%9D-Pinch-%26-Pry-Bar.html What is so good is the curved end. Good luck with you search.

Free Samples it’s possible, but I would definitely suggest you get another opinion. It’s highly unlikely all that will be bad with no light on. Sounds like they want to throw a bunch of parts at it and make a quick buck. What are the symptoms?

Hey Billythebassist, according to the specs this should be replaced if not within 5-9 ohms. I've always been very hesitant to buy and replace parts when the numbers are close, but the engineers have the specific parameters worked out, so swap it out. If you're not in too big a hurry you can look around on some online parts websites and find much better prices. Look at the warranty terms also. Even Amazon has some great deals on factory and aftermarket parts. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

@@rcmaintenance656 Will do, Thanks!

M. P. We are happy to hear that we could help! Thanks for telling us!

M. P. Wow! This is what makes it worth it! I’m so glad you got this figured out and did so against the status quo and stigma of gender or age. You’re an inspiration to others, so keep it up and take care of your own stuff! We’re very honored that we could help you out with this👍

good jod grandmom !!!!

rodney arredondo let us know how it goes.

cutehumor How did everything go?

@@Rcworship79 my valve sensor tested bad. Since I was getting 1 ohms, I replaced it with Autozone duralast lifetime part. If the sensor tested normal, I would have cleaned it and reinstalled. but with the new sensor everything is good. engine idles perfectly now

robowis1 awesome-so glad this helped! Good to see people taking diagnosis and repairs into their own hands.

The intake is on the side of the plastic intake manifold and the exhaust is the side of the metal exhaust manifold. Also, the connectors are different between the two.

Josh Henry let us know how it went.

Thanks for your feedback! We appreciate your words and will take them into consideration! We aren't new at filming but we are new to doing TH-cam, which we know is different in many ways. Hopefully we get better and make it easier to help others!

​@@rcmaintenance656 On TH-cam, there are people who know how to use their video editors. but I am not one of them. I found it to be rewarding to wait for a sunny day. But hot sunny days will also make me sweat. Sometimes I do the right thing by planning the videos in advance on paper. Then I forget to look at my face in the mirror before I start recording. Having paint on your face or dirty lenses can require extra editing work. I appreciate your response and can assure you that TH-cam used to frequently ask if they could (edit) stabilize the videos that I recorded while holding the camera in my hand. I always regret recording on a cloudy day but I still do it sometimes. I think that I noticed a section of your video where the original audio was replaced later. I did that once or twice by using features from two cheap editors. But lately I realized that the DIY videos that get the most views have "no spoken words." The advantage that theses "speechless" videos have is that they do not need to be translated to any language. Almost all of them have sound in the form of some kind of fast paced annoying music. Maybe my next video will be a "silent" one. It is always about the next time that I will have the privilege to record a new video or delete an old video. Either way, it is work..

@@generatorblue The editor I used to edit this video was Adobe's Premier Pro. DIY videos in my opinion are overrated, because they like to skip steps and leave out things. Not having to translate is nice, but having videos in multiple languages can be a huge benefit, so I can get a friend to translate, but these things are better and more informative than "speechless" DIY videos