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i cant see what im supposed to push😔

th-cam.com/video/f9pmr47NL9s/w-d-xo.html

The hole is a shipping hole and at the predelivery inspection, the dealer should take the rubber bungs out the bag supplied by Mazda and put one rubber bung in each side of the car. There is a Mazda part number for the rubber bung.

thanks

I'm happy to have a ND in California. My rotors don't even rust. But good video. Also. Just grab the panel and pull it strait up. No need for a tool at all unless you have Trump hands.

Mazda needs to get a grip...shocking that these cars rot like they do.

Thank you for sharing this.

My 2009 Mazda 5 is still going strong at 230k miles and counting. Original owner. All maintenance and repairs done by myself. It's been a great car. I'm going to see how many miles I can get out of it!

Thank you man 🙏🏼

Great video, I just bought a mazda5 and have been doing so much work to itz. Literally everything you said except change the fluids, I’m a little worried I might ruin the transmission. The car has 280000km and I don’t know if it was maintained previously. Do you think it would be wise to change the trans fluid or just leave it. When I checked it, it was black.

Wtf happened to that screwdriver 🤣

THX Very helpful!

Thank you! You're video helped me fix the problem

how about a 2014 we’re the location of the tcm ? 3 series

Literallt been sitting here trying to replicate this and the three bolts on the back absolutely REFUSE to come off right now. I keep having an issue where my sockets won’t stay on the bolt they just pop right off the second I put any serious pressure

Dude! Thank you for this. Do you need to torque those three bolts going into the hub or just tighten as much as possible with breaker bar? Also, what grease did you use?

another day im thankful i dont need salt for my roads lol. instead, 600 thousand potholes. Australia.

Please, please use a plastic trim removal tool. You can literally see bare metal paint chips from what you did...

You could have a broken shear pin on the drive shaft beside the gears or a keyway that has broken or fallen out ! If you have the machine running with the bottom cover off and you lift the wheels off the floor and see what is happening ! Sometimes the shear pin or bolt is broken and it is still stuck in position so it looks like it is fine. You could also turn the shaft by hand with the wheels off the ground to see what is going on ! When you are done always use carb cleaner or varsol to wipe off any oil or excess grease on any belts or pulleys and the rubber drive wheel and then sand the drive plate ( The round metal plate ) And wipe it clean as well ! Everyone seems to think that all snowblowers have a transmission ( A few of them do and a most of them were made in China and I would not buy one of those ever because it will cost more than the machine is worth new if you are paying someone to do the job ) but most just have a simple system that drives forward in 5 or 6 gears and backwards in one or sometimes two gears ! Forward is on one side of the circle shaped disc and reverse is on the other side of centre . If you are going forward in reverse or not moving at all in some gears it could be because the adjustment is wrong meaning the rod is too long or too short ! At the top of the machine under the gear shift tou will see a removable clip that you can remove and then turn it clockwise or counterclockwise usually about one or two turns and then try it ! The only other problem you could have is maybe you only had one wheel with a shear pin and the other was free wheeling and the other wheel has a broken shear pin and the pin might have fallen out ! I work on them all the time and once you know what does what it is easy to figure it out !

Sir - you should go into gaenercology.

I wouldn't use metal tool to release the side panel. It might damege the paint.

What white thing, cant see anything

You helped me fix my lil' 2007 Yaris, thank you, friend!

Can't see shit should've removed the bigger panel lol

Before putting your blower in the vertical position, take a piece of plastic bag (or zip lock bag) and put it under the gas cap and screw the cap over the plastic. The gas cap has a vent in it and if your gas tank is over half full, it will still drip even if it's screwed on tight. The plastic bag will seal it completely. Before putting the cover back on, wipe that metal drive plate down with alcohol or brake cleaner to get any grease or lube that may have got on it while you were working on it.

Do you drive it in the winter?

Thank you!!

Thank you for your video! Worked. Saved a trip to expensive dealer-land.

Thanks! Using this now. Replacing the rears in my new to me used 16 nd that has 170k and a new nd2 engine/trans in it🎉

Great. Many thanks. Cleaned pipes and jets on bonnet. Didn't work. Good to know that there are 2 pumps for front and rear. I'll need to check /replace one for front. Helpful.

Thank you!

Rear washer

Thanks brother ❤

that is a shocking amount of rust fo such a new car

Very useful video, thank-you. My 2016 ND is in need of new bearing at 99,500 miles. Winter isn't the best time, unheated New Hampshire winter and all, but these things seldom happen at the best times. I'm subscribing.

awesome, i just bough a used yaris that is having this issue. this gives me an idea of what to try. appreciate the simple and quick video.

Muchas gracias amigo 😊

OMG thank you so much!!!!!!!!!

Show us how to change the chain 😅

Damn only if all YT videos were like this. Very helpful.

did this end up working for you?

a briggs engine on a craftsman snowblower? wow, that must be OLD

Hey man I just wanted to say I am in dire straits with the rear drivers side bearing on my 2017 Club and I was desperate for information on how to do this repair and this video has saved my ass. There is so little information online for this replacement and this has been a huge help, thank you! You have earned my subscription

Thanks halped a lot ;)

I refuse to believe your belt is on all 7 pulleys... Mine when it's fully on I can't get it even within 2 inches of the 2 bolts

Can you route the belt entirely from the top of the car? Or do you still have to pull the air dam to reach to lower pulleys?

Thanks

Thx so much for your video.👍👍👍

Just saved my some headache with this “stretch” belt. No tensioner had me concerned 😂

Very helpful and saved me a lot of time. Replaced the plug with a couple of sta-kons and now working fine. Thanks