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i wish i had view you video sooner! i just soldering the wire to the bed without changing/modifying the cable. so 12 amp from each original cable. the original connector burn just like the picture you showed. my anet is pretty old +- 8 year i think and only advice is to add fan on the board ( i put a big pc 120mm blowing on the bord and the x step motor) and add a small 20mm fan right below the stepmotor for the bed and add heatsink to those 2 stepmotor. they wont get hot anymore and since i add that cooling system i have 0 glitch printer is perfect! without cooling those stepmotor would slip or just go nuts on their end.

Thank you so much it finally helped me to get my bed leveled right. I wish I knew that to fold the paper. Also you described the feeling of the paper under the exstruder well enough to know when to stop and that was the key for me.

prefer the mark 1 case, It's nice to have a choice

this is a perfect demonstration of the anet a8. lets face it, its a rubbish printer as stock. but the kit does include most of the bits needed to build a good printer. mine is 2 years old, with all of these upgrades and more, and i get the same print quality as friends with decent expensive machines. videos like these made that possible. thank you from myself, and all the people who dont yet know they need to thank you!

What type of shoe polish will be compatible with the spray paint?

with the ATX power supply what time take your hotbed to get higher temps?

Mount the printer to a stable platform or surface, thus reducing any movement of the frame.

i bought an A8 recently and funny thing it came with an upgraded connector and the auto bed leveller and 3d printed mods, i was quite surprised

Can you please do a step by step full video on how to do all the wiring?

Any chance you can print a screen grab of the cura settings please

Sure did

Did you print it on the anet a8?

get the marlin firmware for mesh leveling and overtemp safety features

my cble already came upgraded and also siliconed inside the pins with in the connector on top of dual wires. still debating soldering since that's no thing for me to solder. but, if ever need to swap the the bed it's an extra step.

Hi great vid, My second chinese stock PSU died yesterday, thinking of upgrading with an ATX PSU like you, one year later, does is still work? is it safe? some talk about too thin PSU wire for the amp needed . I run 2 mofset like you .all the rest of the electronics parts is stock. I just added fuses. thanks.

thanks, big help.

thanks buddy, printed and well done.

I recommend adding fans for the motherboard because the ic’s get pretty hot

Good stuff. Been running an A8 for about 3 years now. Prob still my favourite lol. A couple of things may help make it even safer. 1) Upgrade the firmware. The stock firmware still ships with thermal runaway detection disabled. This means that if the thermistor or heating cartridge fall out, it will still keep heating and is a fire hazard. 2) Some sort of hotend cable support to stop 1 from happening in the first place. 3) Periodically check the grub screw that holds the hotend cartridge in place to stop 1 from happening. 4) Would suggest a 15a car blade fuse on the bed power cable and a 5a on the rest. I also put a 3a dedicated on the hotend. There are NO fuses on the stock board. 5) Heat washers between the bed springs and the heat bed as the springs are very close to the traces and the only insulation is paint. Lastly, I am not sure what one 12v cable on that PSU is rated for, but you are pulling about 10-15a over those cables to the bed. I used AWG14. Love the spool holder. Keep it up.

I've run my Anet A8 for 2 and 1/2 years with no power supply problems, no heat bed problems, no mosfets! Printed rolls of filament. The acrylic Y axis motor did shatter and had to be replaced with a metal one.

A cool mod idea unsoder reset button attach deacent cables/ whier mount the bution on out side of the enclosure

Thank you for telling me about the bed wiring. I have found the common practice of directly soldering the wires to the bed to be an inelegant solution and knowing how to rewire the connector Is great and I feel dumb not realizing that's why there was two connections for both positive and negative. Good job, Anet, on making your cheap printer a little more dangerous than necessary.

Nice video! There is no reason to fork out for a new ATX PSU. Any old PC PSU from 200W up would be more than adequate for the job. But the basic idea is fine as then you also have the +5V at hand for any Arduino or Raspberry PI add-ons.

Brilliant video dude, well done. Wish this was on the updated version though as thats what I have, would like to know what issues still persist

Does the fan blow in towards the mainboard or out

This is my favorite anet a8 build video! Excellent job!

Great video..gonna print one !!! Keep up the great work.

How is the Electronics Box wired for power?

Also, how is the fan powered?

What fan did you use for the electronics box?

Anet A8 Electronics Box, why? can you sent the gcode?

I printed the case and installed it. it looks a little big on the printer but I love it. now I just need you to come over and rewire my box mine looks terrible and yours is so clean.

Awesome. You've convinced me to go the proper route and wire it up properly. Looks cleaner, sounds better and is probably safer. Thanks.

Was hoping for a truthful review, but its sponsored. So much zitting and stringing, and some of those cubes :|

Very helpful. Well done. Thank you :-)

like vid, can you do a video on how you installed the 650w power pack , as i am confused how and where the wiring goes thanks

I'll give this bad boy a print job on my Anet A8. This sounds like what I am looking for.

great job

bloody ripper video mate. i just got mine during the week and building it yesterday / today. building it as base to start with then will mod ASAP. thanks heaps for sharing, esp with the AU content man

great desing but can you redesing this MKII box for 30 amp mosfet version?

good observation with hot casma at 6 amps per terminal

Hello, how often do you check the calibration on your printer?

A great informative video about the A8, I ordered one and is in transit, also I ordered some upgrade parts. I will definitely add this video as reference in my researched data about it. Did you upgrade the MARLIN software to turn on the runaway heat detection system function (FIRE PREVENTION FUNCTION)? I understand that the firmware provided with the kit comes with this function turned off.

Incredible video! I think you covered all the gotchas except for a firmware update, and auto bed leveling.

Been a while, Ben. Are you still making new content?

Great!

Just printed and installed the MkII. Brilliant job mate, well done.

Awesome video about a8. Even I just built this one week ago and not sure how to go about printing the adding. You already printed the wire chain zero the heated bed - did you do that with Abs or Pla ? After reading/ watching a ton of tutorials it seems most the adding that are near heated bed need to be in abs. But out of the box it’s difficult to print abs as the bed has a hard time trying to get to the 100c mark and even if it does the prints are bad with skipped layers. It seems the solution is to insulated the bed on the backside and/or make a enclosure for ABS prints. Please let me know if your parts are pla. Thanks.

CABO Nice work. A lot of people not have upgraded to RAMPS with Raspberry Pi3 Octoprint and dual Mosfets. Is there any upgrades in the future upgrades to hold such components? I love the the case but not that far in Remixing yet to make that type of modifications yet. Would definitely Print if these upgrades were available.

Great video - eloquent and factual. Do you think you'll add a Bowden extruder?