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So I haven’t had any condensation issues but I also used rigid foam insulation to insulate the entire coop, including the ceiling. That said, I was insulating for sound, due to the ordinances in my town for roosters, so I left plenty of gaps in the insulation around the roof line for ventilation. Hope that helps.

@@joebuilds I did see that in the pro's and con's video after I posted my comment. You'll probably be fine due to the insulation. Thanks for the reply.

It’s roughly 1.25” x .5”. It was something I just milled up quickly so it’s not exact.

It didn’t work for me. The picture lined up way lower than the frame.

I wouldn’t, water will get behind the trim (unless you caulk it) and the trim is going to hold it there and speed up rot. Also, if you’re going to go straight to the corners you might as well just weave the corners and go with no trim. I did that on my cabin and it’s a really nice look. I only did the trim on my shed to match my house.

You happen to have the list or extra material needed to build it to 8 wide?

@@michaelminiscalco473 I'm sorry I don't. I just measured the width of the run and adjusted the framing accordingly. I think I ended up with two more nesting boxes than what the plans called for.

Completely agree, and it was a mess of overgrown grass. We’re currently redoing all around the coop planting some berry shrubs and adding mulch and stone!

I would use compost instead of mulch as it easier and help the plant if you use composted soil.

Sorry for the delay I have the video edited I just need to finish the voice over but I got a little side tracked building a new deck! I’ll make a real effort to get it out this week. Thanks for watching!

@@joebuilds That's ok my man, you got priorities. Don't move heaven and earth on my account ... I'm sure I'll see it in time.

I’ll try to get that video done this week. I just need to edit it. I don’t think there’s any need to elevate the boxes. They stay perfectly clean and I’ve had no issues with the chickens using them or getting in and out. I also didn’t bother with a curtain or any type of cover and again no issues at all. On slanting the floor. This could be nice but I think it might just be a bit overkill. If I’m being honest there’s some weeks that I can’t get to the eggs for an entire week. What I’ve found is the chickens will just use the other nesting boxes after they fill up their favorites. However, if you’re going to have more than 8 hens and they’re breeds that lay almost daily then the slanted floor would be really worth it. I was planning to use sand but was waiting for the laying box pads to come in. While I was waiting I used wood chips. The wood chips worked so great (no mess or smell) I just left them and went with the deep litter method. You will need to make a small modification near the doors by adding a board so the wood chips don’t pile against the doors. Also, if you’re concerned about cleanliness don’t be. The nesting boxes and the majority of the coop floor stay spotless. All of the chicken waste will simply pile up under the roost. I haven’t cleaned out in 8 months and it doesn’t smell, the eggs stay clean, and it breaks down in the coop.

Thanks for the reply and the added info. I can’t wait to get started - but my first step is regrading the property similar to what you did. Ugh, that’s not my idea of fun but it’s gotta be done

I loved this design and I was in a time crunch having already bought the baby chicks and hadn’t thought about the coop. This saved a ton of time in planing and figuring out materials.

It depends on the time of year. I have 6 hens. During the spring/summer based on the breads I’m averaging 4-5 eggs per day. In the fall and winter it’s down to 2-3. I don’t use any sort of lights to encourage the chickens to lay more in the winter.

Thank you so much!!

I did not. MDF is a pain to work with but it’s really stable. Looks great painted.

Thanks for the reply. I have heard some say when using real wood for the stiles and rails you can get a hairline crack at the stile and rail joint. Do you mind if I ask what brand of primer and paint you used? Thanks again, Jake

@jakeh409 Benjamin Moore for both.

Thank you. Jake@@joebuilds

Standard hinges. I think they were 1.5 inches

The staples I used were galvanized so they would be considered corrosion resistant and I definitely wouldn’t use any fasteners that weren’t corrosion resistant. Personally, I’ve used both staples and shank nails both work very well but in my opinion the staples hold a bit better and for me are way faster (since I have a staple gun). Hope that helps.

I’ll give it a shot. Thanks!

The minimum coverage on each side of a keyway is 1 1/2", not "about 1/2". Ideally, lol. It's a MINIMUM STANDARD! The 1.5 I mean is the minimum. This is where you actually save time using the jig, because most of your time should be used to make sure that every keyway, not just "sort of, maybe", but every keyway is covered every time. The jig allows you to set up a few dozen shakes, if you find a spot that is really hard to make your coverage, you can swap one or two around and then when satisfied, nail them all up in a few seconds.

D grade does not have 25-30% unusable, it is literally 100% unusable. A professional grader has graded them, at a loss for the mill, they lose money by processing and shipping the wood and downgrading it so there is a huge motivation to not make it a D, but they have to. Nobody sneaks in any good shakes in the D, they would be fired or bankrupt.

The wall wasn’t load bearing, so no concern. If it were you could simply add a header and two cripple studs (from header to floor plate).

You can route it but you’ll still need to caulk it driving rain/ snowing will still get into the rabbet you created. So since it still needs to be caulked it will look exactly the same and it’s more work and time.

Haha I couldn’t agree more. Surprisingly though it’s holding up nicely and works as it should just definitely not stopping anyone with a bit of ambition.

Standard shakes are not meant to have more than a 5” reveal. If you wanted a 14” reveal you’d need to buy custom shakes. With the ones you get from the store you end up with the issue you’re having plus you can’t adequately secure them to the house. A few strong wind storms and you’ll start to lose some. If you really wanted to use the standard ones with a 14” reveal I would put a layer of roofing (tar paper) behind them. This will help with moisture but the black will also make any seems less visible. You can always use lower grade shakes on starter courses, behind your good shakes. However, besides the starter course you usually don’t have more than a single layer of shakes. Hope this helps.

You have to take care to cover the keyways appropriately. Start with your undercoursing on the first row, 3?4" above your flashing, then double it with a second course of undercoursing making sure to offset the shakes to cover the keyways by at least 1 1/2". Then put your grade A shakes 1/2" lower to form a drip edge, again making sure to cover the keyways by 1.5". Move up 14 inches to start your next course, this time just one layer of undercoursing, again covering keyways. Drop your Grade A half inch, making sure again to cover keyways. Repeat. You should never see any nails in the previous course ( they are located 3/4" from the edges of the shakes, and the shakes are cover by at least 1 1/2") and you should never be able to see through to the underlayment or sheathing. For double coursing shakes or shingles you need to select appropriate products and grades. For 14" exposure a few acceptable products are 18" #1 or A perfections, resawn or hand split shakes. the undercoursing can be any grade.

@@joebuilds custom shakes are not required, knowledgeable installation is all that is needed. This 14" exposure is an approved method and covered by a limited lifetime warranty by the cedar shake and shingle bureau.

Really good. I did go back and put those foam squares under the free weights.

@@joebuilds awesome! Thanks for the response!

7/16 crown, 1.5 in. long

It’s a center hole punch usually used on metal for starting a drill bit. You can get on Amazon for under $10.

I bought mine from Home Depot, but Lowes carries them to. At least where I live. Most lumber yards carry them too but generally then only have the higher more expensive grades.

I have better grade shakes on my house that have lasted 27 years now with small repairs here and there, but I’d say it’s highly dependent on the environment. The singles under the porch will likely last twice as long as the ones directly exposed to weather and direct sunlight. Personally I like the natural look but if I were going to use a sealer I really like Benjamin Moore and would use their Arborcoat products.

With a good installation a minimum of 25 years. In good conditions up to 100 years. With this particular install, 5.

It doesn’t unless you make sure you already have one right angle. In my case I made sure when I glued the door up I had one perfect corner. The other option is to make the first cut with a miter square or sled so you know the blade is at a perfect 90 degree angle to the door for the first cut.