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I just did this fix yesterday, removed the battery cable and that air cleaner top. I put the plastic part on the shift lever pin, then used a small socket and a foot long extension beside the hose, and tapped the fitting down with the extension till it was seated on the bushing. I used a good grease to make seating easier. The orange part looks better, but I got 85K from the original fitting.

I have the same transmission, I have all gears except reverse, could it be something simple or will it require a tear down?

I appreciate education.

You've convinced me not to make the attempt. My Patriot was less involved. I'll gladly pay someone.

@EMaF_DIY - Can I do the adjustment without removing the transmission?

Amazing, 6 year old car and no corrosion on brake and suspension components.

Thanks. The size was 10mm. I have a 2.7

When I went to take the backside screws out with the 7mm nothing caught. Am I missing something?

Where ur videos on vale body on 95 Ford ranger

Clearly the best

Thanks for taking the time to make a video. Very helpful, appreciate your efforts

According to a few other forums who have loaded up the Ford Manual page, it lists the torque at 10 LBS or 14 Newton something (metric). Thanks for the video!

Watching your video has been a serious help, keep them coming! A question, 1995 4r44e behind a 3.0 V6. It has a 5 clutch forward clutch drum. top 3 clutches were worn out not steel to steel cross hatch on a couple side was gone and friction base and adjacent steels were pretty much burnt Truck lost all forward gears. Is the 6 clutch forward clutch drum from the 4r55e a possible upgrade? Oh and in middle of taking forward clutch drum it rolled of table and cracked hub so I have to get a new hub anyway just wondering if 6 clutch hub is an option?

Just had this happen to me the other day. I had the car towed to the dealership for repair. My Fusion is a 2018.

Customer complained about vibrations and noice from a fairly new brake job. You only changed the pads and rotors. You did not clean the hub nor cleaned the caliper sliding pins? Customer will have the same problem in like 2-3 months….

This will be my last combustion engine car at this point

Excellent instruction and suitable for those individuals who already have basic mechanic's skills. Thank you

Thank you so much

Thank you made the job alot easier!!!!

Are you still planning on doing a rebuild of this transmission? Got one of my own and would like to see someone who knows what they are doing rebuild one.

Camera men did great job.thx men

I have a question about my 2011 Ford Ranger Transmission. (2WD Automatic) It was supposed have been replaced about 2 1/2 years ago and was working fine until last year when a problem started occurring. when leaving to go somewhere the transmission would go into drive fine, however after going a short distance of a few blocks and usually when coming to a stoplight, when I go to accelerate from the stop the transmission lose drive gear, after stopping and shifting into park, or reverse it eventually will engage again and go on shifting normally. A couple times it did continue to slip. However it typically would return to normal operation without further problems. I found the problem seemed to be less frequent during the hot Phoenix summer. I checked the fluid level and it was ok. I found more increasingly lately I would lose drive when entering the freeway during acceleration and have avoided driving on the freeway completely. The problem has became very frequent when leaving for the past few months but typically goes away after the initial loss of drive which will "Engage' after a few seconds or longer and no longer slip or act up and operate normally. Today while driving close by after and during rain and cooler temps that Drive completely failed after stopping a couple places a block away and then refueling. Reverse also would not engage completely and slipped, but D1 and D2 worked ok and I did make it home. I tried several time to go and try it in Drive and Reverse, and drove around the mobile home park to see if things would return to normal, but it continues to slip badly. It did flash the O/D light during these tests which from my research indicated slippage after 3 attempts. I tried adding additional fluid but the problem continued. Tonight I let it run idling in park for about 20 minutes. When I tried it again it seemed to work as normal without slippage, however I did not take it out on the street, only at slower speed around the park where it did shift from 1st to 2nd fine and had no apparent slippage. Last year I did remove the equivalent of a bottle of Lucus Transmission Treatment worth of transmission fluid drawn from the Dipstick Tube, and added the Lucus treatment hoping to resolve the issues, which did seem to help, but may have been due to operating at hotter temps during the summer. Do you have any suggestions? Would a fluid & filter change be advised? I would guess I have about 30K miles on the "Replaced Transmission" and everything operated normal for over a year until the problems stated occurring. The fluid I removed looked good, not dark or contaminated. Do these symptoms indicate a problem with transmission electronic controls/computer module or shift solenoids? Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated. I have tried finding videos on this ford automatic transmission with similar issues with no luck. It's odd that the transmission fails like this after just driving less than a block or a few blocks and stopping, not able to engage in drive when starting forward acceleration again, then within a few seconds or sometime after rolling to place to pull over then stopping, trying shifting to park, reverse etc.. then it will engage and operate normally with no slippage. I just found today that D1& D2 worked when Drive and Reverse would slip badly with almost no engagement, just slight forward and backward movement respectively. I did not rev the motor excessively as to not do damage, or have a "Hard Engagement" and break something.

Having this problem myself, going to check this part when I get home from work, wish me luck.

thinking of changing my own breaks. this helps alot. out where i am there is no service that can service my American Ford Fusion. the American standard for repair is crazy different that it is here in Europe. (in the EU theres a special document for all eu spec cards that has all the part codes for everything, without one a mechanic will not touch the vehicle. not even an official dealer.)

how can you just it when your transmission is on your car

first of all, when you put in a new rotor, you need to lubricate the hub assembly to prevent burning rotor to it. so this video is a little mess for me

Great explanation. I'm thinking of changing my brakes myself. It seems pretty straight forward. Ive done very light self maintenance on cars before, would you say this is something a novice can do without much fuss? Also, are there places that loan a tool? I dont have a piston presser or a torque bar.

Does front replacement need maintenance mode on?

Great video

Great video! It helped a lot, thanks!

Do you have to decompress?

Great video!

Great work! Best explanation I've seen yet!

Very good video ,, this is what im looking for i have kia sedona 2015 sxl

We share the road with these people and that’s terrifying

Ok I get that's terrible and all but the real question is, did they drive it in, or was it towed?

WILL THAT FIXTURE WORK WITH A C4 TRANSMISSION

Great Video! Very informative