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It's🙃 not a toaster....

@@raykd2ibp198 what do u mean?😭

@@shadowfountain Give it a shot. You might be on to something.

Not really. 6k gallons in NY isnt easy to keep temp.

I will help anyone, anytime, with anything. How can I help?

@@raykd2ibp198 thank you for that. Fortunately, though, I got it figured out. I was trying to figure out how to run two solenoids using two of these, linked together.

The system or the exchanger?

Show me what you have and explain what you're trying to achieve and I can try to help...

A lot of reason hum can be present. The amp hums with nothing plugged in?

I'm not sure I understand the question....Can you elaborate.

The tubes may not be happy. I have a few other issues with the amp. I need to bring it to the amp doctor. As hams we can all figure it out. However, I like short path. Someone who can pop the cover, takes a whiff, and knows the best direction to go in.

Allot of math in that question. Temp in, temp out, flow rate of the exchanger hot side. Temp in, temp out, flow rate, on the fluid flow side to be heated. The heat dissipation rate of the fluid you wish to heat. That is not a question can be answered without a lot of information, and a lot of calculating. 5,500 BTU exchange capacity is the start point. I hope that helps a little.

The shoot moves around without the aid of vice grips. Got bigger fish to fry at the moment. Everything looks good on paper. Balls in one hand, wrench in the other. Good luck my friend. I'm here if you get jammed up.

857D takes a lickin and keeps on ticken,

Ehh. I will chalk this one off as a fail....Everything looks good on paper.

Thank you! Cheers!

Bom dia senhor! Como você conseguiu que 4 unidades funcionassem mal? Tem certeza de que está tendo um problema de programação? É possível que sua fiação não esteja correta?

Not sure what you mean. J. You can run wires off the switches to other switches if that's what you mean.. Cheers and happy Easter!!

@@raykd2ibp198 Nice! Yeah, I was thinking about trying some momentary switches, but wasn't sure if they would trigger the same.

@J McGill The original momentary push button switches are normally open (no current can pass through). Closed on pressure. ( When physical force is applied to the switch, the circuit closes and allows current to pass through) If you need more help, feel free to contact me at any time.

Good day. Can you send me a pick of your board? See if you can get the numbers in it. (Version)

@@raykd2ibp198 Pic sent via your email, many thanks. Glen

@@Ezivnelg I'm sorry I didn't get the email.

Possible… However, not likely. I use dielectric grease an all my connections.

Pretty sure it's in the specs.

@@raykd2ibp198 it says, 15A or 400w that's a lot for this small module timer.

@Stephen Shop Be careful my brother. They are cheap boards for experiential, educational purposes. Fun to play with. Best to have them in fire proof enclosures.

@@raykd2ibp198 Thanks for the warning. However, can you recommend a fireproof enclosure for this? Even electrical enclosures used in the house are not fireproof like junction box.

Both have their merits, and shortcomings depending on what you’re using them for. Can you give me an idea regarding the application?

@@raykd2ibp198 just to turn off the 5v bulb from 5v powerbank?

@Stephen Shop Either one is fine for the application described. Be safe whenever you're playing with electricity. Pretend it will kill you if you make a mistake. Simply because it can.

@@raykd2ibp198 what is the minimum voltage for this module to operate ?

@Stephen Shop At the time of this posting.... I believe they were 5-30 vdc on the trigger side. Don't remember the switched side. Don't mess around with electronics if you're not sure regarding what you're doing. Even low voltage can start fires if you make a mistake. Don't be that guy ;)

If you close contact that's it. The programed sequence starts. Is it a momentary N.O. switch?

@@raykd2ibp198 Yes, using the N.O. connections of a micro switch with a roller arm that closes the circuit when lifted by a ramp on the withdrawing pin. When the trip wire is walked through, the pin pulls through the micro switch in milliseconds.

@@SuperRealityKid Not to read judgemental.. however, this reads like a contraption. You might want to simplify the trigger. Try circumventing the whole switch setup and see if the board goes through the programed sequence .

@@raykd2ibp198 🤣It's actually super simple in construction. The "pin" or 4" long 3/8" stainless rod is inserted into a lose fitting tube with a slot along its length on the top. The rod has a high spot that is guided by the slot and operates the micro switch when it's pulled out of the tube by the trip wire. Mechanically it works flawlessly every time but I will try operating the microswitch manually without using the pin.

@Super Reality Kid k. How's about a video? Get yourself out here brother!

Yes check the voltage requirements on your board. I believe the boards that I played with at the time of this posting was 5-30 VDC

Buen día, no estoy seguro de lo que quieres decir. ¿Puedes elaborar?

That is likely a possible sequence of operation. Check out the attached document. I'm not sure why you want to add a jumper... If you sketch out the circuit, I will look at it.

I don't think I fully understand the question. By jumping the terminals, you essentially take the board out of the circuit.

Good day, I’m not sure if the boards evolved to the point that you can dead short the trigger contacts to start the programmed sequence. However, I doubt it. You can try… I don’t think you can cause any damage. The boards I played with need to be triggered by 5-30 volts dc. Check the specs. this is not hard to do because, you have the voltage going to the board to power it up anyway. Please let me know if you need anything else.

Good day, I have found some things are not consistent with these boards. This is just an introduction to this board. You may need to play around a bit.

Ha! Second time in over 5k views I had that complaint. Never even noticed till you mentioned it. Now I'm ticking too. Click click click click.

Hello Dana. What exactly are you trying to do with this set up, so I can better answer your question.

Cheep enough to get a new one.

Yes you can.

Good afternoon Eugene, The system is not primarily designed as a "heat pump" to heat the pool. The primary goal was to cool off three bedrooms in my house. The unit was sized out for that purpose. Rather then transferring the heat load out to the atmosphere with an air cooled condenser, I felt the btu energy would be better used in the pool. I did monitor the heat differential of the system (Delta T) on a hand written ledger. As well as energy consumption. The ledger contained data as follows. Date, outdoor temp, indoor temp, heat return and supply on the water, heat return and supply on the air side, Amps drawn from the unit including the pump that circulates water, energy consumption in kWh etc. I was also concerned about water temp increase adding a significant strain to the compressor. I found the losses were negligible. Remember I'm using a 6400+ gallon pool in the north eastern USA. A 300 gal pool will heat way faster, and you might need to have a secondary heat exchanger to dissipate the heat. You want to maintain +/- 80 deg F condenser water return temp. I hope this answered your questions.

What's up Gabe. What is the sequence of operation?

@@raykd2ibp198 inverter senses battery bank is at say 12v... at this time is connects the dry contacts in the inverter which need to send "start" signal to the generator. I want the timer relay(between inverter and start wire) to send the signal for .5-1 seconds and then stop. That way the inverter contacts don't stay connected to the start button continuously while the generator is running... after all this... the gen runs until the batteries charge to set point say 14.6v and the contacts in the inverter disconnect and the generator shuts off...

I would look for a module that will trigger your starter at a preset setpoint, say 10 Volts. The timer may not be the trick.

@@gabegaming558 Ok got ya. the inverter voltage to the dry contacts is 12 VDC?

@@gabegaming558 Disclaimer: This and all my posts are for experimental and educational purposes only. If you blow something up, or burn something down, kill yourself, or anyone else it’s on you. I don’t make, or sell the boards. I don’t vouch for the safety of using cheap modules for practical applications. Hire a pro if you have any doubts. I don’t like this module for this application. The risk of the board reapplying voltage to the starter as the engine is running exists. Also there is nothing “telling” the module that the engine successfully started. Gasoline and applied voltages is a volatile combination. It’s the foundation of how internal combustion engines work. Any circuitry and or wiring should be housed in an explosion proof housing. If any of the circuitry should fail it cannot introduce a source of ignition to flammable gasses, or substances. I will introduce a quick sketch after agreeing. Do you understand and agree with this?

Thank you..

Hey Chris. Yes that's the trigger. It's all in the programing. If you get stuck give me an idea regarding proposed sequence of operation. You don't need to get detailed. whatever is being turned on or of we can just call the load.

@@raykd2ibp198 Thanks. The project I'm trying to build is fairly simple. Power source 9v. 1. Trigger is a momentary switch that tells the module to close the circuit to the load and provide it power. 2a. If the momentary switch is released, delay off timer ends immediately and the circuit opens with no more power to the load. 2b. If the momentary switch remains depressed, the circuit stays closed until the delay off timer ends and opens the circuit. The issue I keep finding is that the modules all respond to the trigger, start the timer, but I can't interrupt the process if a momentary switch is released. Do you know anyway to program them to make the above happen? Thanks again for your channel.

I may not be using Delay On and Delay Off correctly. The ultimate goal of the module is to prevent continuous load beyond a set number of seconds, but have the user have the ability to stop the load the moment they release the momentary switch.

OK, What if you have a NC momentary switch to kill power to the board as a reset?

@@raykd2ibp198 Thanks for the suggestion. I’ll look at options.

Not sure what unit you have, but that's a recipe to destroy the RP7. The RP7 has closed momentary switches that have no exposed contacts. The fix is to replace the worn switches period. Do you have a video demonstrating your technique? I would love to see it.

Hi Joshua, What's going on?

Thank you, I am the worst Peter. You can occasionally observe me running down the hallway with scissors as well...

Peter... I use the air often. Your text haunts me every time I do after your comment. Don't know if I appreciate the advice, should I heed to it? You did change the way I pick up the gun. Well played my friend, well played.

I don't understand

I never had that much out of it. I replaced the tubes once. However, I have not hat too much time replacing the other components that should probably be replaced. Caps resisters etc. I'm leaning towards going solid state? Not sure yet.

BTW 240VAC..

@@raykd2ibp198 I run an Icom PW-1 most of the time. Solid state and set once and forget is very nice for sure.

@@raykd2ibp198 On 226v measured line coming in, my SB-200 does around 620w with 100w in, on 40m. I only get around 300 on 10m. That's on the original Centron tubes.

@@TheTreegodfather 100W in gets those tubes glowing. I think its to much. I go in @ about 50-60 W

Good morning Michael, You are correct with everything you stated. The machine was built, and it is a beast. I'm leaving the backwards drive alone. Gives the machine character... Be well.

@@raykd2ibp198 Im still trying to figure out what to do with mine. I have a three speed transmission and one speed reverse. It is an actual transmission and not a friction one. I still have the manual for it and it dont look like a simple fix as a friction plate one is. Unless I can figure out how to overcome the two shaft design with one, I am probably just screwed.

@@michaelfisher7835 The only time you're screwed is when you give up. How can I help?