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@@klepp19 thanks for the comment…much appreciated. No, I won’t be selling these.

@@klepp19 nope.

That could be done, for sure. In fact, there is no need to enclose the top portion at all - many horn speakers are done that way. However, I was trying to maintain, and hopefully improve somewhat, on the original aesthetic. Thanks for looking!

@@hollowheadsrestorations You You did a hell of a job... I've rebuilt my media room that was destroyed in a storm.. Finishing electrical in kitchen, dreaming of a audiophile setup with secondary surround system ( which is in place now) for movies and gaming. Looking at Klipch La Scala, Cornwalls. Maybe Maggies and really getting interested in building a open baffle design. ABX really got me enthusiastic about the project. I have a friend who is doing my cabinets and I might design a baffle and have him cut the pieces. I would create channels for the wires so i could hide the routing.

Thanks for watching.. I beg to differ

Using hobbyist level tools, you would be correct. However, it is entirely possible to get this level of accuracy with the right equipment. That is why I farmed out the cutting for this project. I have since acquired a saw that can absolutely do this level of precision. Alternatively, the option is to sand the angle to fit, or mess about with fillers etc. to close any gaps. As discussed in the videos, the doghouse is the hardest part of this build due to the angle of the cuts, and the precision needed.

Thanks for the comments and good luck on your project!

Links to all the components and plans are in the video description. Thanks

It says nothing about the midrange horn, but i guess there the original ones?

@@AquaFreak all came from critesspeakers.com.

There really no way to make that comparison, in the sense that they are paying labor, have production overhead, advertising cost and whatnot. However, this cost me about 5k Canadian, with about 2/3 of that being the component cost. But there’s a lot of labor involved, which cost me 0. I know that mine outperform the similar factory models.. they sound better in every way, though there’s nothing wrong with the stock La Scala. I’ve not heard the newest models, so I can’t comment on those.

Hard to say with certainty.. and it’s been a while since I worked on one of these. It’s a fairly straightforward mechanism, so just check everything for free movement, nothing sticking, jamming etc. also check the springs. The other possibility is that you don’t have the drive shaft of the motor lined up properly with the idler. If I recall it’s a stepped shaft. Hope that helps!

Thanks for watching. It’s built exactly to the La Scala spec, and exactly as per the original pair I previously owned. While there may be other ways to approach this, I assure you it works as it should. The bottom section in its entirety is a folded horn - the woofer is in effect a compression driver attached at the throat of that horn. It is one unit, not a box within a horn enclosure

Thanks for the comments!.. I can relate. I paid $750 for my first pair of La Scalas and while I didn’t lose them in the same way you lost your k-horns, I did foolishly sell them. I didn’t have the foresight to hang onto them until I got a bigger place.. a lot more money and a whole lot of work just to get back to what I had 20 years ago!

Cost is going to vary wildly depending on how you approach this and will have changed since I built these. The drivers can be priced out by visiting Critesspeakers.com. You will need 3 sheets of 3/4 Birch Plywood, and whatever you are using for finishing. The crossovers I used are no longer available - they were the most expensive part at around 2k Canadian. Critesspeakers has their versions of the Klipsch designs at a much more reasonable cost.

Crites Speakers has these parts available, I believe.

Thanks for the comments.. much appreciated! No - there is no damping in the original design. This is not needed, and probably counter-productive in a horn design like this. Some people apply damping material to the outside of the squawker (particularly the metal ones) but I don’t feel this was necessarily for mine. There is damping material in the cabinet of the Cornwalls, but the Cornwall is port-reflex enclosure in the bass section, not a horn. Different design requirements altogether.

I am familiar with those horns, but have not had an opportunity to hear them. They could be useful in a modified design for something fun and interesting.

The whole thing cost me about 5k Canadian. Materials where I live (Newfoundland) are not strictly comparable to elsewhere, so not useful for comparison in other areas. Most of the components came from Crites Speakers, so their website can be referenced for current pricing. I am not sure if ALK engineering is still building crossovers. I think Al may have given up taking orders. If so, crossovers are available through Crites Speakers as well.

@@hollowheadsrestorations Arghh! I just lost my response... Well I'll try to re-post it, what of it I can remember... You are right that Canadian prices do not apply elsewhere, however, they are a good reference, even if of only relative value. The cost is very reasonable considering the ALK extreme slope crossovers cost 2360 USD on their own. That is a very high cost for crossovers which is reasonable if one considers the cost of high quality components used alone but still not justifiable in my mind for a mere set of crossovers. Still, the owner has a business interest to protect and selling them off for, say, a 500 USD a pair would be tantamount to inviting others to copy and clone the design. I just checked and these are no longer made to order - you are correct. They may be available as one-off sales however. That means only a lucky few will be able to get them in the future, if at all. Perhaps a more viable way for this business to continue would be to have them built-to-order in batches by a sub-contractor, having them tested by a sub-contractor or by the owner and then sell them as batches on a first come, first served basis. This might be a way to go forward. In any case we will see but it will be a shame if they are no longer offered. One point worth noting is that ALK eng. is the only high end manufacturer that I have ever seen selling low pass filters to curtail high frequency content for the comfort of pets! This is very commendable! At least that filter might be worth having on offer!

Hi Victor, no, I didn’t forget the seal but I may not have captured on video. In actual fact, the original has a putty type substance much like plumbers caulking. I actually used that product, sourced from Parts Express, but fount it to be too stiff to compress properly. I swapped that out for closed cell foam. Thanks for watching!

Hi Scott, thanks for watching. I used the squawker itself as a template, so can’t help you with this one. Good luck with your build!

that's my plan as well so far the build is going really well Thank you

Hi there, unfortunately I may not be much help with this question, as I have not worked on one of these with a changer. It is likely, however, that this is something that can be resolved by simply listening carefully to locate precisely the location of the clicking and work to eliminate possible causes. An educated guess would be that it is coming from the motor or the idler wheel mechanism. I suspect this, because there is more strain on that mechanism when the cam is in operation, which may make the clicking stop. Once the cam disengages, the only thing moving is the motor, idler wheel and platter. If the noise is not coming from the bearing, it must be coming from the motor or idler wheel mechanism. Check the inside edge of of the platter for imperfections, the idler wheel itself, or any of the associated parts that move. Hopefully you can locate the problem.. good luck!

Thanks for the comments.. much appreciated. Wood is birch veneer (the 1/8” edging on the front is solid maple, as I couldn’t get birch locally). Polyurethane is Minwax satin finish.

@@hollowheadsrestorations I am amazed at how much color you get with a polyurethane that has no stain color in it. Looks great.

@@jkjome4095 sorry.. I did use a stain .. varathane special walnut. Used a pre-stain treatment to prevent blotchiness and polyurethane topcoat

@Hollowhead's Restorations Ironic. I've been looking at Minwax's "Special Walnut".