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It's an "Industro-Lite" horizontal/vertical with a Dore-Westbbury head that I built from a kit about 20 years ago. The basic machine was made in Sheridan, Oregon, USA around 1970. Thanks for your interest. F.C.

Thank you and welcome aboard. Cheers, F.C.

sure: bnordgren.org/files/metchart2.pdf

Thank you for your encouraging comment. It's been difficult to figure out what viewers find interesting and useful. Cheers, F.C.

Not all viewers are the same. You do not have to try to figure out what is interesting or entertaining to them. I taught machine shop for 37 years. I still look at videos, or parts of videos in the hopes of picking up new ideas or methods of work to use in my home shop.

Hi Guy, Thank you for all of the great work you're doing to increase the threading versatility of these fine little lathes. Thanks too for the suggestion of using non-metallic gears in the tumbler reverse system. I'm curious about your solution to diametral pitch threads. Please forward a link If you have your solution out on the internet some place. On my 6" ATLAS lathe, I insert a 14/22 cluster to get a close approximation of Pi/2. To cut a 20 DP pitch thread, I set up a gear train for 10tpi, insert the 14/22 cluster and I get a close approximation. This also works for module pitch threads. I figured I'd do the same thing on the SBL 9A except set the QC to 10tpi. Again, I figured that setting up a metric gear train and QC for 2mm pitch and adding a 14/22 cluster would cut a reasonably accurate module 1 thread. Thoughts? Again, many many thanks for the work you're doing. Cheers, F.C.

ROFLMAO!

Regarding starting this kit at 59, ask yourself "how old will I be in 10 years if I make this kit? How old will I be in 10 years if I don't make this kit?" As a bonus, you too will have "a lot of balls". ;) Cheers, F.C.

@@FCleff I was actually thinking how old will I be in Forty years lol

Brilliant! May I ask the make and model of your 3D printer? Also, may I ask the material used to do the printing and the approximate printing time? Cheers, F.C.

@@FCleff I use a Prusa i3 MK3S+ . I was surprised that I could just use standard PLA. low density infill but solid at the teeth with extra thickness at the centre boss and inside the teeth. The Prusa slicer allows plenty of options. The 127 gear took 14 hours, the smaller ones much less.

@@philiphoeft6100 Thank you. Your printer's performance is impressive. My old Solidoodle, not so much. Cheers, F.C.

Thank you

Hi Gr eg, I'm sorry that it didn't come through more clearly on the video but the the shaft and end piece have mating, releasing tapers. There is a ~1/16" head space between the two parts and the cap screw holds it all together solidly and quite true. Thank you very much for the encouragement on speaking. Cheers, F.C.

Hi John DeBrular, Thanks for the constructive criticism. I'll see what I can do but the lathe is old (like me) and I'll grant you is a little on the noisy side. Cheers, F.C.

Hi, thank you for your comment. The threads on a 3C are 0.642-26. The body neck diameter is 0.649". I don't know the tolerance for the neck diameter but I imagine it's +-0.0005 . Cheers, F.C.

Good for you!! Technology has come a LONG way. I used hand stamps and a hammer. It's not beautiful and uniform but it is readable. Cheers, F.C.

Thank you! Yup, Vic is THE man!

Thanks for your interest, Jim.

Hi Sanjay, No, I can not supply this attachment. I suggest that you view recent videos on hobbing attachments created by "Andy's Machines" here on TH-cam. Cheers, F.C.

Hi Mikhail, Thank you for your interest in this project. Regarding your question #1, rotary encoders used in full quadrature mode produce pulses on two channels, A & B. Additionally, each channel can be detected on the voltage rise and voltage fall. So, in full quadrature mode, the resolution is 4X the simple resolution. Example: Set the resolution to 400 with the dip switches and you will get a resolution of 1600 ppr. Regarding question #2, the work spindle motor is set to "half step" mode so 400x2x4=3,200. Regarding question #3, I got that motor from Sparkfun, part number ROB-1046. Of note, I have changed the resolution, gear ratios, motors and drivers on the most recent version. I have done this in order to improve reliability, speed and precision. That said, the fundamental operation and design have not been altered. Please see my latest video Home Hobby Hobber Part IX for more information. Cheers, F.C.

Hi Alan Wood, I confess that I have not seen that post. Could you reply with a link? I'm always interested in saving "a lot of frustration." Cheers, F.C. PS I just found the posting you mentioned. It's a very good solution to a very real problem on the QUORN. Thank you very much for giving me a heads-up.

@@FCleff Good morning F.C. I have written up my bracket and hopefully you can find it on my woody's workshop pages at altrish. If I put a link I think YT will block it.

You're most welcome, Alan. Cheers, F.C.

Hi Hellboy, Yes, the relationship changes with the number of gear teeth created. The spindle/hob rotates once for every tooth being created. For example, if you are cutting a 20 tooth gear, the spindle will make 20 revolutions while the gear blank (what you call the "divider") will make 1 revolution. The rotation ratio is always number of teeth over 1 or T/1. I hope that helps? Cheers, F.C.

@@FCleff Thanks

Thank you!

Hi cavlevel, Yes, there is plenty of room to close the gear cover with the metric conversion cluster in place. Cheers, F.C.

Hi Hellboy, Yes, they are coupled electronically via a rotary encoder, microprocessor and stepper motor. I'm sorry but I don't know what a "manual cutter" is.

@@FCleff Ok, e potresti indicarmi con quale rapporto sono accoppiati ? Non riesco a capire se il numero di denti influisce sul rapporto. Ho solo capito che l'avanzamento è arbitrario.

Hi Kenneth Berkley, The thread for the mating parting is an M32x1.50. The MAX O.D. would be 32mm. I don't know the specification for the pitch diameter but I'm sure there is a formula in Machinery's Handbook, etc. Once you know the PD you can measure it "over wires" and be sure of a good functional fit regardless of O.D. If you use a good quality, full form threading insert, the PD should be quite close at O.D.Max. If you are using HSS tool blanks that are ground "offhand," well, that may be more of a "cut and fit" exercise and the O.D.Max may vary quite a bit. Hope that helps? Cheers, F.C.

@@FCleff yes thanks im building a mill and this shaft is the way to go and im incorporated the er style tool holder in the shaft..and didnt want to have to press another one into a hole..i have an older 1550 Enterprise lathe and when i got it none of the numbers for threads or the control handles existed..many thanks

Thanks a bunch, John! Stay funky, bro.

@@FCleff You too, you've got some good design going, on a great platform.

Hi Miguel, It all depends on how much time you have and how soon you want to finish it. The construction notes that were printed in Model Engineer required only a lathe, a drill press., hand tools and precision measuring tools. I used a lathe, drill press, horizontal-Vertical milling machine w helix milling attachment, small surface plate and basic precision measuring tools. I hope that helps. Cheers, F.C.

Hi Alan Wood, Congratulations on your recent acquisition. The ER25 collets and replacing the ball handles are, I think, good ideas. I'm happy to provide more "details" on my drill alignment gig but I'm wondering what kind of detail (theory of operation, fabrication sketches, more operational videos.....etc,) Please advise. Cheers, F.C.

@@FCleff I tried to give you a link to send me details to and YT blocked it. I would just like to see how you fastened using the magnets. Not sure how you can send it to me though.

@@alanwood3597 I agree, YT can be frustrating that way. The rare earth (Neo, I think) magnet is 0.070" thick by ~0.40" in diameter and has plenty of attractive force to firmly hold the jig to the underside of the QUORN's "tilting bracket". The magnet is located in a .437 dia. x 0.0750" deep (No deeper!) c'bore in the rectangular base or foot of the jig. Nothing other than the magnets force is required to hold it in place. The "foot" is made from a piece of 3/4"x 1/8" HRS ~3" long. Please feel free to ask if you need more info. cheers, F.C.

Hi Moto Wizard, The entire source code for this version of the Home Hobby Hobber is standard Arduino(eze). However, I no longer have access to it due to a computer crash. :-( Cheers, F.C.

Thank you for the kind words and encouragement. Cheers, F. C.

Hi Albeerto, Thank you for your interest in this project. The "servo" (hybrid stepper) on the work spindle is synchronized with the main spindle via an encoder sending pulses to an Arduino Due. The Due sends appropriate pulses to control the motors. Cheers, F.C.

@@FCleff Thank you very much for the help

@@albeertozamora7397 You're most welcome.

Hi Floyd, I designed the box for the controller with TurboCAD and 3-D printed it on my old, reengineered Solidoodle 3-D printer. Unfortunately, I lost all the files when my hard drive died..........no backups. DANG IT!! Hope that helps? Cheers, F.C,

Hi Mike, Thanks for the kind words. Those ball collets are a George H. Thomas design and they really work GREAT. Cheers, F.C.

You're most welcome and..............THANK YOU!

You're most welcome.

Hi John Prosser, I bought the kit of rough, unmachined castings, springs, round bars and diamond nib from Model Engineering Supply (I think) in England in 1979. M.E.S. is long out of business now I imagine. I put a 1/7 HP Bodine Electric motor on mine. As long as you keep the the feed low (<.0005") and keep the wheel well-dressed and sharp, this is a reasonable amount of power. I see this machine as a "sharpener", not a "shaper". I'm planning on using diamond and or CBN wheels because they're cleaner and faster cutting. Cheers, F.C.

Hi D K, You're most welcome. I'll make more. Cheers, F.C.

The last I heard you could get the complete kit from Hemingway Kits in England for about 700 pounds. They have drawings and construction notes available tool. Cheers F.C.

@@FCleff Cheers! 🤘

Martin model carries castings for about $400.

@@arloames4517 Good to know. Thanks!

You're quite welcome. Oh, how I envy you! Thanks for your kind words. Cheers, F.C.

Hi Gerrit, Thank you for your interest in this LONG project. The new hybrid motors have been working a lot better (much faster, way more torque, finer resolution, etc.) than the 1st generation , The down side is rewriting some code and a total redo on the Arduino shield. Progress? I think so but I agree, it's been a bit frustrating. Cheers, F.C.

@@FCleff What a pity. I hoped you could release the source code for us to tinker with on our own machines. Saw it in one of your videos and wrote it down bit by bit. Actually don't know if it is the full code as I did this a year ago. I wrote down it's "version 3.0". May I contact you to send you the text file? Is that any helpful?

@@EMMX39 Well, I'm afraid it won't do you any good unless you have the I-phone app too. I have no clue how to make that available in either a source code form or an executable/installable app. Also, the hardware layout and pinout have changed a bunch because of these new motors. I'll think about it. Cheers, F.C.

Hi Mike, Thank you for your kind words and interest in these videos. There will be more. Good luck on your QUORN. It's a REALLY GREAT learning experience. Cheers, F.C.

Hi PWCT, Thanks. I do what I can with the stuff I have. Cheers, F.C.

Hi Gyro, Thank you for your interest in this project. When I started it I had NO, ZERO, ZILCH...experience with stepper motor hardware or control software. So, I kept everything REALLY simple. Synchronization only involves counting small numbers (~ 300 is as big a number as will ever be encountered) of pulses, addition and subtraction of unsigned integers. That said, I will certainly keep your suggestions in mind should I ever try more complicated control in other projects. Cheers, F.C.

Hi SanJay, The hob rotates one revolution multiplied by the desired number of teeth for every rotation of the gear blank. This ratio is maintained REGARDLESS of the hob spindle speed. Example: If one wishes to make a 17 tooth gear, the hob/hob spindle must rotate 17 full turns for each rotation of the gear blank. Therefore for every rotation of the hob, the gear blank rotates 1/17 of a turn. Again, this regardless of RPM. I hope this is helpful. Cheers, F.C.

Hi John, I don't have a scanner/copier that works right now. Faxing at the "local" office store is EXPENSIVE and a bit out of the way for me. I'll try to get something worked out with a neighbor but it might be a while. By the way, what model/serial number is your Industro-Lite? Cheers, F.C.

@@FCleff F.C. You don't seem to have an email listed in your youtube 'about' page which I understand. So we might communicate less publicly I have placed my email address in a dropbox file that you should be able to access by going to: www.dropbox.com/s/1ke8yrpwnnga1uw/email.txt?dl=0 I'm of a certain age where I'm a bit more guarded than younger folk so If you have any difficulties getting my email let me know here and I will figure something else out. Happy to cover any (reasonable) expenses you might incur and time is not a big concern. My machine is a very complete M500, serial number 348. It was purchased at a SF Bay area auction. I was told it was previously owned by a San Jose State engineering professor who unfortunately passed away. Also picked up his 10" Logan lathe. I treat both with a certain reverence in respect for their previous owner. john