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Hey do you know where I can find the black plastic thing that’s hold the big plastic Toyota sign if you do please let me know

That is awesome 👍👍👍

That’s awesome!!!

😂😂

damn nice catch, basically you have pwm signal which controls pump. if pump is not getting signal pwm it goes into ok lets go max speed so what heated part aka engine would not over heat. self primed no it doesnt know what it has no water, it simply has time delay it should start imediatly ussually, self primed means either it has bearing which alsready has lube, or it may be like in pc world magnetic levitation bearing, fluid bearing, or it using liquid to lubricate there is many options. but they are all physical, not invloved with electronics, also it may have temp sensor, rpm sensor inside. pwm controls it how much fast it must spin, if it heats too much it says go go go, by temp sensr outside lets say

Hey there, I'm wondering what speaker's you're using there in the dash! I'm looking for a set myself that will properly fit in the dash without having to modify the grille. I've read a lot of the speakers's tweeters on Crutchfield stick out too much for them to fit nicely.

do you have a diagram or photo on what cables on the foc controller B are connected to. Please?

your video helped me find out how to get to the steering column connector thank you so much!

I can hear an engine idling in the background. Hopefully not the MR2. 😃

Is that still the 4age?!

Thank you for demoing these: I was looking at the 1157s but wanted to make sure that there was enough of a brightness difference between the tail and brake light modes on the bulb (since 1157 is dual-filament) and it looks like there is !

God, thank you for seafoam.

Any info or part numbers?

I have it on my golf 7 gtd its an second water pump for intercooler i think i have problem with that but i’m not sure how its supposed to work becouse right now it is turning and shutting unregularly when its supposed to be under pressure its shuts it self i dont know if it is normal or no

After I cleaned out an old 460 my burning got worse till the ring’s reseated,then it was a slow improvement to get to 1 quart at a 3k mile oci.

Awesome Video ~ Just bought a Mishimoto 26x8x2 (ish) Heat Exchanger to custom bumper (under a ranchhand tube) to run to same Intercooler on HJ61 Land Cruiser 12HT Turbo Diesel upgrade ~ Great Idea ~ Look for an OEM pump that 24V ~ maybe EBTPapst 24v DC brushless fans Love to see your finished product

Nice I have an mr2 mines old

ya as that one guy said check the throttle cable. near the throttle body there should be a screw you can tighten. see if that fixes it or not. it looks to me like the throttle cable is loose

Nice bro I have a MR2 to I need a exhaust it’s hard to find one was that the original exhaust it came with

Seems like it might be worn out or bad engine/transmission mounts, not entirely sure though

Maybe your MAF sensor is bad try unpluging it and see if it works

Ok..Just FYI..Seafoam in the oil/ crankcase cleans the metal...But the rubber seals can be harmed..And those seals could be causing oil burning..Valve seals?...Hot Oil Changes/ Burning touch with proper gloves/ Extra oil filter changes...

Here's hoping you don't use that impact driver to put the oil drain plug back on 😂

Im guessing maybe your engine shakes so much during full accelerarion that its either interfering with your throttle cable (if you have one) or it is somehow fucking with the transmission

:) yay

Diesel in the oil will do the same. Also full synthetics have more stabilizers/ conditioners that keep deposits suspended in the oil, so the oil will carry them out when changed.

I'm not knocking Seafoam as I have some in my engine now. If the original oil was black when you changed it the new oil would have gone black almost immediately without the Seafoam. The engine would have lots of black sludge in it turning the new oil black straight away after first starting it up. You need to flush the engine with cheap oil until it comes out clean then add the good oil and Seafoam. When I do mine I put half of a 4 litre (approx. 4 quarts) bottle of oil in then run the engine for about 10 minutes with the occasional throttle blip. Drain, put the other half in and repeat. Change the filter and then add the good oil. Then if you want then add the Seafoam. Hope this helps.

After that I would also do some flushes with junky but new oil till it comes out clear.

Once you get it clean add a SMALL amount of Lucas engine oil stabilizer and the oil mileage will improve drastically....

Be sure to replace the oil filter as well.

You're very likeable Max!

What to do if i cant take the 10mm nut i mean it just wont get of its spinning but not coming of

Buy some tire weights put them directly across from the valve stem tape them to the inside of the rim with black duct tape fixes the unbalanced wheel no vibration at all now.

Replace the valve stem seals.

shit i might put kick start mode on

you could just use a 120mm m6 as well

Thx man i have the same problem with the scooter gonna fix it now

Peeding

The threads are wide on that type of bolt, did you use any Lock Tight??

Give it another seafoam treatment

Is there a calibration procedure ?

is this the 90w version? I'm thinking of something like this for my pond, the 180w 12v pump I normally use has gone up from $40 to $75 and the brushes wear out fairly quickly. (I am using it continuously submerged and operating everyday there is sun). I am also wondering how this would go with 20v from my solar panel and whether I would have to use a charge controller and battery?

Good job! Keep up the good work, my friend!

100 miles with fresh oil too? If so dang.

Progress is looking good! May want to double check clearances with the accessories (alt & AC) and the turbo outlet plumbing.

Mines cut 😂 off at around 56.5v -57v and motor stutters once im on gear 3 and it hits about 20mph it will cut off until mph drops below 20mph for like 2-3 secs then when u press throttle down it will accelerate and then cuts off again. I think its the controller doing this. My scooter motor turns off completely when it reaches 52v by default but maybe could change it to go lower but heard that is bad for the battery. Let me know guys what you think???

Wanted to let you know that if you delete the A/C you can use the compressor backets furthest in top bolt hole for a knock sensor. Got one from a B18 Honda/Acura engine and rethreaded the hole to install it. I imagine you are running a standalone ECU, it would be wise to, you'll have the option for a knock sensor. You're gonna want one with boost. Even if you lower compression like some people do. Amp EFI now makes Megasquirt ECUs. You can get a gen 2 plug and play ECU from DIY autotune. 900 bucks. Send them your ECU and they will swap your connectors to the new ECU. Super easy. Has an options port for a ton of other stuff too like a wideband etc. Our AW11s only have one clutch switch, which is all the way at the bottom. Do not use the clutch switch for launch control or other fun stuff. There is a green/white wire at the cruise control computer that is grounded when you pull the cruise stock back. The cruise module is up and to the elft of your ECU in the trunk. I am doing this as it is simple and a monetary switch and you can also still hold the wheel. Good luck with the build!

Bro, where did you find the manifold? I cant find anyone who makes them anymore. Got a guy that'll put a flange on my stock cast manufold but I'd rather make my own at that point. Had to fab one up for an 87 Prelude with the A20. Cool build!

I've been working on turbo cars for the past 20 years, and they're all like this some more than others. But if the turbo goes on without any problems, it's probably a turbo you don't want to use anyway.

Hey Max my ti30 that I got for $900 about 2 months ago doesn't completely turn off, but at about 56v it will not go over 30kmh (18mph) and the throttle will cutoff until you start going slower. They said this is built in to protect the battery, but it seems weird to just literally cut the throttle off and on what seems like out of nowhere when you are riding it. Is this normal, like does yours do this? And can it be changed? I lowered the voltage cutoff in the P settings, and that doesn't seem to make a difference.