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Thanks. I've used the 550k WD for over a decade, along with others. They have a good taper and read as high as modern pots do (not high enough) but they are definitely much much stiffer than the vintage Centralabs and don't feel the same. They also don't last 60+ years! :) For just sound / taper, they are among the best of all the bad options we have today.

It it 60 cycle hum? ...when it's not connected to anything but an amp with an isolated power distribution system? If yes, perhaps the one power filter cap could be changed. If no, I wouldn't go shotgunning caps. It's going to be more noisy than the reissues. It should also sound richer and fuller and more interesting, though. Hard to say if its a problem or just how they are, without it in front of me in my own test rig.

@@ReWind-Electric i gotta dismantle the thing and clean it up, deoxit the pots etc. the foam on the cover still there but deteriorating and bits of foam all inside. visually i dont see any leakage on the caps

@ ya the hum was a ground loop no issues. My pots date this to a 1979 unit. I'm thinking of desoldering the blob on the trimpots to adjust them. what i have is a learjet instead of a 747. also engaged there is some volume drop not sure if that's normal

It's absolutely NOT a job for a beginner! These pedals are some of the most difficult to deal with. The traces lift, the legs are thin and brittle on components. The jumpers are stiff and have brittle connections. The parts are crammed together very tight. I'd leave it to an experienced tech. If you're a beginner, you're likely to cause some other problems, then just have no idea if you fixed one thing and broke another or not.

Glad it was helpful!

It was repaired poorly by Sam Li, who didn't know what he was doing or have the right materials / tools, and also re installed incorrectly, when Peter Green first owned the guitar.

Thank you, brother! Hope you had a great one, as well. Clearly, I’m slow to read my comments here. Haha!

@@ReWind-Electric Thanks brother! Had a great time. I've migrated to TGP, not sure if I've come across your account yet but hopefully we'll run into each other once again.

Thank you. That’s very kind of you. Glad you dig it!

I don't know. I just grabbed from stock whatever made sense at the time. Use calipers and measure, then check specs, if you are going to just order a single power cord online.

ok, but should I do a mix with every style of music from various eras and genres, with different gear in different rooms / studios / venues to cover what everyone might be using their guitar for? I mean, where would that end? Try to hear the dry / direct / room mic differences here, and interpret what those changes might be in your guitar / rig / hands / style / space / etc. If that's not enough for you to make a decision, you'll probably be best to just buy a vintage bridge and try for yourself in your own environment to really experience it. If you do, make a vid and you can link it here!

More control over intonation, you mean? Each string on a 3 saddle bridge still has independent height adjustment. Leo was a smart guy, though. He moved to 6 saddles on his Strat for good reasons. Still, I like an old Tele, flaws and all. Something special about the way it all comes together.

Yes, intonation is what I meant 👍🏽 Teles are my favorite guitar by far. The body shape fits me so well.

Open frame speaker on a massively loaded up workbench with metal toolboxes, etc. It was clean in person. What probably didn't come across in the video is just how loud that was. I had the PS-100 loud! ....just not for long to be safe.

I have a 250 also, and I do like it, but I prefer the Zoom Box. It's possible I just don't have the right 250, though. I know they can all be a little different.

Various calibration of clock, bias, levels, etc. Probably best to leave them be if you can't look at a schematic and have a good idea what they do and if you need it adjusted.

@@ReWind-Electric Oh, it's got a clock huh. Okay, ya, I kinda get that, and not really planning to touch them, but I guess my main curiosity was how does the average tech even figure it out etc if MXR doesn't even document anywhere what they are, or what they are for? Do you think other than the stuff you mentioned, that any of them actually affect the actual Chorus in any way, like depth, width, intensity, etc? Stuff like this just bugs me, because you can see on each pot there was marks where the pots were set, and they arent even in those positions. It's like a paint dab, and I think its so company's could maybe tell if they had been moved or something if they were repairing them, or maybe im wrong, but its just hard not to be curious, especially, because it makes you wonder if they have been messed with, and if the pedals sounding right, or as good as it could hah. I do know that there is some switches inside, and those are fine to change. One sort of changes the speed in a way, and makes it like a vibrato almost, and the other I cant fully remember, but it makes it either louder/quiter, or the effect more intense kind of.

Nah. I don't want to get into shipping explosives and who wants to buy a $500 gallon of lacquer. If you need some vintage refinishing work done, though, I'm open to discussing the job, time permitting.

That one is over my head. Send it off to an experienced tech. Other modulation pedals can have that problem when the chips fail. Best to have a pro look at it.

Tri tri again?

Very kind of you. Thank you.

I thought it was faux-Kyuss riffing? haha! Compliment, either way. :) Thank you.

It’s an Agile that I rear-routed for pickup swapping.

Nah, it was a pro install, and the we checked out the harness and connections, etc. He liked other pickups in the same guitar / rig. Just a guy who's not into the brighter sounds. These are basically T-Tops with PE wire and no Ts on the bobbins. Second vid after a magnet swap and swapping bridge / neck pickups uploading now!

I’m not sure what you mean by between the plate but, yes, PAFs always have one bar magnet.

@@ReWind-Electric like wherever you slipped in I always thought it was just posts with wire

Ha! Thanks, man. About an hour each evening for every magnet type to do the swapping, charging, recording, then some time editing. The Vs are definitely bright, but they also have a lot of bass.

Perhaps I will do another video focused specifically on taper comparisons. FWIW, closest modern taper is a basic 10% audio taper from CTS - and most modern players don’t actually want a real vintage taper, but something more even and gradual the whole way through the range. Vintage has a bump at the end. Some of us old guys like that jump as a boost at the end and more fine tuning of clean-to-crunch up front and in the middle.

@ReWind-Electric yeah I like the bump at the end. I'm a les paul straight into a bassman, plexi or trainwreck type of guy and like that little boost at the end .I haven't trued too many specialized pots but saw some info on the vipots and tried em.

They are a modified taper. More linear than audio. For some reason, all the pots sold today as, “vintage taper” are not. They are 20-40% curves. Real vintage is just a 10% audio taper. …but what most players prefer today is NOT a real vintage (audio) taper, because there’s a jump in volume at the end of the taper.

Do you mean so I can always place the magnet in the exact center of the shoes? …or to center the pole shoes on the coil cores?

@@ReWind-Electric Both. It just seems nice to be able to have a reference mark. Cheers Andrew

Good call. I had some marks on there but they came off when I started taking it apart. Hopefully, with the new power supply, I’ll be able to leave the pole shoes fixed and just do everything electrically, anyway.

Bourns definitely have a nice loose feel. Unfortunately, they seem to fail far more often and sooner than any others so I have a hard time using them for paying clients. For myself, I have some I use. The VIPots are Bourns and can be bought in specifically higher values, which is nice.

This video is just the short summary comparison of this one. It's all explained in this: th-cam.com/video/a1-p5L_PADI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=r2PDCXl2pDb7yNxG