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Have you heard back from paclock yet

1:10 here is when i knew

Thanks for doing this review! I've been debating getting this book and now I think I'll get it for myself for Christmas! Great review!

Very nice

Nice lifting! Great job on making the tools and thanks for sharing.

Thank you for this review, hopefully many people will see it and pick up a copy for themselves.

Thanks a ton for the very kind shout-out. Super stoked you enjoyed the chapter on manipulation. Do hope all your dials spin smooth & fast. ~B

Great review! Thanks for sharing and take care.

Congratz! Nice picking and thanks for sharing. Take care and have a great weekend.

Nicely done

Very well done!😃🐈‍⬛🐾👍👏👏👏

In like Flynn! Fantastic picking and thanks for sharing.

Whats mcas??

Hey, i messaged you on discord im also dq there, have some questions that we better discuss not in a public comments 😂 great work with the s&g! Im amazed!!

Did you ever get the levers created?

Would a piezo noise generator on the door defeat this method?

Good video ,I'm 70 years old & starting to pick my padlock 90A tomorrow, I'm going to progressively pin mine 2,3, &4 pins while I learn the serrated pins look very interesting . Thanks ,moe

Nicely done 👍

Nice lifting and thanks for sharing.

I’ve not tackled them yet.

Furst 🕺

I need to replace two locks. I was given two GSA classified document safes. One had 6 holes drilled and the entire lock was removed. The door opens and closes with a turn of the handle. The other, had the dial removed and one hole drilled. A safe guy showed me how/ where to drill, to drive the deadbolt out. I got through the 3/8” door plate but could not drill the inner box around the lock. I was able to blow through that with my plasma torch. All holes will filled with welding. The safe I had to drill and torch, had what was left of a Mosler PRK-302? I have photos. What I need to know is the mounting hole dimensions of a S&G 6730. I’m having trouble finding that info by internet search. There are 4 threaded holes on the inside of the box holding the lock that were used to mount the Mosler. I would be a big help to find a lock that uses the same hole spacing dimensions! If you have that info or can direct me I would appreciate it tremendously. I can share photos of both doors if you need.

The 6730 has the adjustable tension (the allen-wrench driven gear), what if that is too loose will that allow the combination to drift/change? Just wondered if that's just a matter of preference how much turning torque you want or if it effects anything else. Thanks.

Thanks good video , informative & clear , beginner have sparrows progressive & cutaway locks , have trouble getting pick into schlage keyway sometimes ,am I the only one ? Thanks , moe

My 6730 failed after 1 1/2 years. Took 40+ try's before I got it to unlock. I replaced the lock body, and decided to up things to a Group 2M 6630. Haven't disassembled the 6730 yet to see what's up. But I could tell things weren't good as I couldn't feel the 2 wheel pickup when I dialed the combo.

Nice pick and gut. I was surprised to see a serrated key pin in 4 based on your narration. I thought that maybe 3 would be the most interesting pinstack. Take care.

Just what i needed to know. Thanks!

ITL, safe cracking is the only way to fly

Well done my friend Stay well

Fantastic picking and thanks for sharing. Take care and have fun!

If you were gonna test this, it has to be real world tested. A TL rated safe that is locked by someone with the known combination, and you would have to see if you can hear a difference through a thick door.

Hi there- question- have you worked with any locks that have a relocker that has a pin on the end that inserts into the side of the bolt instead sitting in a groove on the side of the bolt like in this video? Long story less long, I have a family member's old Remington Rand file cabinet/ safe with an S & G group 1 lock with an 'arrow knob' in the center of the dial. It was left unlocked [yay!] so I could cheat and take the back off the lock. I figured out the combination since I can see the wheels [genius that I am....] but I'm not sure what the trick is to the relocker. It wants to sit with the pin in the bolt- even when the back is on and putting pressure on the opposite end of the relocker. I'm not sure if it's missing a piece or what. Any insight would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.

This looks like a training lock, or at least repinnable lock - are those set screws that will allow repinning? Did Dusty make it?

A unique angle for picking. It kinda looks like you're picking it upside down. I've raked a few locks upside down, but don't think Ive SPPd like that.

Excelente video,excelente informacion

After the S&G which would be more educational, the Lagard 3300 or Big Red CDL3?

I have the Sparrows cutaway locks (schlage) with the replacement cores for the other 3 major brands. All can be rekeyed and I have the rekey kit. So I am set for quite a while. Unfortunately as a beginner Sparrow sets on the order page Left Handed as the default choice which caused me to buy the wrong side of the cutaway. So it is just a little harder not seeing the pins easily. But it forces me to improve picking blind. And I am starting with a vice. As you pointed out, picking in your hand gives you a lot of feedback, feedback you would not have in an installed lock situation.

The people who are looking at audio as a possible way to achieve a manipulation defeat of S&G's 8500 series locks are on the right track (sort of) but the answer/solution is not as high tech as all might think. If you're interested in learning more, reply here. As far as detecting anything of use just by turning the dial and moving the wheels, no. All you'll get is wheel pickups and wheel count. The lock part known as the "Z" spring works to hold the fence out of contact with the wheels after the fence is actuated by pushing the dial inward at 0. The wheel material is called "Celcon," a Delrin-like low mass material used to impart radiographic resistance.

I’m a beginner and I just ordered the revolver less then a week ago, it’s the first practice lock I bought.

Nice video i have a question is it possible to get a copy or photo of your graphing sheet ..i have just started learning to manupilate ..and your sheet was so informative

I just received my revolver two days ago, between the reload pins, amo pinc, chess pins, key chang kit and the 3 cylinder replacement kit, it's the most versatile training tool imaginable. If you get all the kits and specialty pins plus the revolver, you might have spent $110. You just can't get a better bargain in such a versatile training tool!

I was about to oder a Sparrows vault. Although I wouldn't want to do the modifications. Do you consider the vault worth buying as a training aid the way it is, i.e., with the cheap Chinese lock? Is there another training vault that you know of? Thanks for the video, too.

Just came across this video while doing rando research of the older styled S&G 6720. That spring loaded fence actuator lever seems like definitely an added feat that’d step up security measures quite a bit ‘but’, with the inclusion of that mechanism, doesn’t that more or less defeat the point of including them non-metallic wheels, if fence is no longer riding pressure along their faces continuously? Just a thought that over time, that new mechanism allowing the fence’s engaging face to “snap down” against them plastic wheel faces of INCORRECT combo, would eventually leave mares or divots along them plastic faces that could then be heard as dial is turned, at least during the rotational span of that arms’ resetting lobe? Edit: just read that other comment left 9 months ago. Granted such wear patterns would likely take a number of years & obvi, of many releases of that lever allowing the fence to potentially cause such wheel face wear, my original thought of them even being plastic still, seems pointless, since fence is NOT in contact with the wheels, until released.

I would assume that microphone (e.g. piezo contact mic) or high frequency acceleration sensor attached to the dial should be able to feel the vibrations which are probably more accurate than soundwaves through to safe door. If you can detect the sound of lever spring going over the edge accurately enough, you can just count the number of samples until the fence hits the wheel pack. As the lever is always moving by the same spring force, it should move at identical speed every time and the time needed until hitting the wheel pack should be enough to graph the pack. For example, even if you use basic 44.1 kHz sampling in the sound card, you can still detect 1/21k second time differences even in worst case. The idea of also checking the sound / ringing is pretty neat. Combining both could result in knowledge how far the gate is from the wheel (assuming the wheel makes a bit different sound depending on the hit point vs distance to the gate). Recording the ringing of plastic wheel through the door may be really really hard, though.

Great video again, thanks for showing ;o))

Great video Grain, I will definitely buy a 6730 to practice manipulation. Cheers!

My _only_ gripe about this is the lack of instructions for noobs like me that have never pinned a lock. Do you just remove the plugs, insert a key, put pins in, and then replace the plugs?

I'm excited about this video! I got my revolver today and haven't put it down for long for the last few hours. I've been back into the hobby for a few weeks now and this is the perfect practice tool. I'm going to ship it to my father to get him to sandblast Roman numerals and some filigree around the keyhole for some added flair.

Thank you.

I love it when folks make their own cut away lock. No special tools required and it is still more than good enough. I too loved the idea that Sparrows' tried for, but too bad the Vault comes up so short we need to just go to a real safe lock. Folks would be better off just doing that from the start.