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This is a very interesting video. Thanks for sharing. Seeing how it's designed helps a lot when trying to understand it. But there is something I don't understand. Let's talk in 2D which I think makes things simpler. A circle can contact two straight lines and roll between them without sliding. However, each circle (ball) is in contact with 4 lines in your bearing. Doesn't that imply sliding no matter what? For example, see cross sections at 4:35 explaining the auxiliary races.

Well done ... very interesting.... I liked the idea of attaching magnet to motor axis to detect rotation orientation.

Отличное видео! А где взять шарики для подшипников?

ты русский??

Thanks for this video. I like the troll face lol

"th" != "z"

I really like your visual diagrams made with Onshape. Clever use of the tool.

Why didn't you chamfer the contact surfaces?

Great design idea.

Good job! Thank you for sharing your experience!

Nice content!

You came up with a bench dog! Woodworkers have used that self-locking mechanism for centuries. Look up bench dogs, and you'll see all the different designs. Awesome that you came across it accidentally.

This is such a good design and such a good tutorial! Thank you for this!

Talent / work / luck the triumvirate of successful venture.

try watch pins

If you have a number of through holes arranged in a circle (one for each pin in the programming pin) and then make a holder that is springy radially. The radius of the hole placement on the board is slightly larger or smaller than the radius of the placement of the pins in the connector. This gives the locking force when mounting the connector. One could have either slip-ring locking even harder.

I kind of liked the first version more - if those pogo pins last and make good connection all the time - I would prefer the small version

dude you already achived the perfect tiny connector that nobody is possible. i definitely like the first one more

I'm guessing the drill bit has a rougher surface than the rod because it gives more surface area for the drill chuck to bite onto and keep it from slipping

from a technical point of view - quite well done. from a video publishing point of view - also well for the body - nice mix of presentation speech and intermixed object shots. i would just recommend to give a bit more sort of a teaser in a visual sort at the beginning. and maybe sort of a 5seconds logo and/or animation in form of a recognizeable opening scene for your channel to make regular watchers comfy... 🙂

cool current result. just 3 types parts to meachnically insert into the main 3D printed body.

Very nicely made! My compliments. The original one left the most usable area on the board. And I don't really see an issue with it. So I personally would use that. Btw... the use of the mounting holes as part of the connector is brilliant!

Why not just make the connectors on the board thru-holes then on the cable let the pins have a slight bent inward?, no spring, simple as a socket.

I really like the design, it gave me a place to start. The only issue I am working on now is that I need to press fit it in an axel through the hole, so will need to figure a different way to attach the parts. I will likely make the center part a single body instead of the outer ring and figure it out from there (as there is more room in the center of the ring

Уроки английского у Александра Невского брал? Произношение просто божественное.)))

It's not IPC conform. That's the reason why it's not used in professional use. That's a brilliant half assed idea though

How about using tiny nedimium magnet. It could hold the pins in place. You ca than move the connection to any part of board snd shoul also allow to better pin layot.

Problem I can see is the pads being so close to that grounded mounting hole opens your design up to shorts if the mounting fastener is the wrong size or shifts slightly or if a washer is used.

beautiful man. I like it much more than the large professional one, and your design doesn't take any space compared to the professional one!

Have you considered TPU? I assume it'll interact poorly with the jumper housing but would make the spring effect far easier and more compact, the less stable jumper housings could be mitigated by leaning further into the bent jumper ends, bending them into channels such that the metal jumper heads provide the stability that the PETG did previously while still working as a single print and being more compact whilst providing the same spring effect. This would provide more give in the alignment pin too so you'd likely need to have that at an angle to act kinda like a pair of tweezers with that and the screw under compression to hold it on.

If I were you I would go with a clips design. Think a small clips that sandwiches the corner of board both front and back. It can be slightly spring-ly or not at all. All you need is some notches aligning with the holes. Maybe one side of the clips can have positive cylinder and the corresponding side can have negative cylinder.

Use a clamp

I like your programmer idea. I think you over thought it. Your original idea would be fine if it were easy to make and no spring pins. So make it with normal pins soldered into a pcb. Then you have vias (through holes) instead of pads on your target board. Now your alignment pin turns into a spring. Each of the programming pins binds in its own hole providing better contact than spring pins and holds the connector in place.

Very neat video, has me thinking about all sorts of designs. I would imagine the greatest drawback of your current design would be contact forces of the ball bearings deforming/wearing down along their contact paths. I wonder about adding an internal raceway's, perhaps just an O.D. and I.D. to correspond with the balls rolling contact plane, or more to further constrain them. Perhaps with a strip of something with high hardness, and small tolerance, mechanical tubing for instance. Could cut out thin slivers (thick enough to minimally deform from contact stresses, and wide enough to help distribute the normal force along the plastic face) that fit into notches. Basically use 3D printed plastic everywhere except the balls themselves, and small metal or high hardness plastic rings positioned where the balls would contact.

Could you not just rotate the connecteor? With the pons facing to the outside of the board, it will move the hoel inward a smidge but it solves a complicated problem pretty simply :)

Z != T

Is it just me or does he look like Sheldon

Want about a small solid cube with a 90°slot like a miniaturized credit card reader that you slip onto the corner on the board

Why not use pogo-pins, and with the larger pad size it doesn't matter the exact diameter of the pin. Make a 3D model with a parameter for the hole size, or make the holes very small so they can be drilled out to the needed size based on the pins obtained. Or, use common connecting wires, but rather than 3D printing the spring mechanism, use the spring from a retractable ball-point pen and put it in-line.

this is GENIUS. the only downside i could think of is if a flanged bolt is used to mount the board, it could short the power to ground. but then you just don't use a flanged bolt lol

Say 'smash that like button' so youtube will highlight the like button too

привет Дим может сделать просто двухсторонний зажим из прищепки или заколки для волос такие бывают. А ещё проще торцевые падики в ряд и по дырочке в плате с каждой стороны ряда, а на коннекторе все пины в один ряд и ты прикладываешь пины к падикам сбоку а два "держательных" пина по краям отгибаешь чтобы впихнуть в дырочки и всё это держится за счёт натяжения примерно как в твоей первой итерации

4:40 going back to this, what if you used a two-piece core to mount the pogo pins instead? So you'd be able to just seat the pogo pins into the main body, clip in the rest of the body over them to lock them in-place, (with them half-exposed on the outside, like the Raspberry Pi Pico's exposed metal contacts) and then you can easily solder the wires onto the pogo pins from the outside. As for latching, I'm not sure if an FDM machine could do it, but what about two plastic-latches on extended stems? (alternatively, if you embedded a small magnet into the design then the "clip" could simply be placing another magnet on the opposite side of the board)

Think of a tiny, fancy, drink umbrella. Now, imagine the paper cover removed. You have a tiny umbrella skeleton. You will be 3D printing this. In the 3D print, print a thin (3mm) bolt for the umbrella's handle. Make pin holders on the ends of the bare clothe rib supports. I think this need not be anything other than a hole in the end of the ribs. The Dupont programming pins will go down, vertically, through these holder holes. Insert the bolt handle vertically through the PCB hole. On one of the holders, insert a non-electrical alignment pin. Align the pins to the pads. Align the alignment pin with its hole. Add a nylon nut to the bolt. Tighten down the nut, by hand (only,) to add pressure on the pins onto the pads. Now, the springy part sort of becomes the jig's body and the rest of the body is sort of eliminated. Hope that makes sense. If it works, please publicly post it (its print files) as open source, give me due credit and send me 10 copies. <grin> Hope it works. Hope it helps. Cheers.

Awesome work, the hobby wires you were talking about are called DuPont terminal connectors. It was really nice to see all the work and attention to detail, and looking forward to more!

Molodetc, Dima!

there are smd springloaded pins. you can just reflow solder them

By far the best explanation of quaternions Spent a month looking and learning about it on different TH-cam videos, even the 3blue1brown. No history lessons, no gimble lock. straight to the point. Keep up the SIMPLE and BEST video.

Nice video! Could you share source code and schematic, please?

Instead of springs, add a small drop of mercury to each contact.