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The S might stand for socialist, it's a Chinese manufactured reel. The C3 and C4 reels are Swedish manufactured reels. Pure Fishing can slap the Abu Garcia label on anything manufactured with no quality control standards.

I have five C4 reels which all have clickers so it is not something lacking on all C4 reels.

I can agree on some issues you share. The internals are definitely the biggest area of concern as far as parts go. My sharing was to help people avoid the initial purchase without having to learn all those additional problems. The line guide of the China design may work initially, but I do perceive it to be an inferior design prone to more problems. I did try a Kast King in past and was not impressed, but the price is far better than a China labeled Abu reel that also failed to impress me.

The Magpul has it's place for sure, but for the bench and positional shooting I do it's not a great fit. Were I squirrel and rabbit hunting on foot for hours on end I'd reconsider my stock choice.

You definitely know how to reel fast. It can be done with enough speed by you, but that tool for the job can wear me out. I have put it to use doing those tasks, but prefer to use faster retrieve speeds and feel many would think poorly of the reel were they using it for those tasks.

There is more consistent quality in the Swedish made Abu reels as well as some of those made with pride in Japan. Parts are also available for these reels to replace worn out parts which will happen if you use them a great deal over time. Most designs expect you to just throw the entire product away when one part has worn out. Pure fishing owns the name of Abu now so most products with Abu name are Chinese manufactured and I did another video doing the comparison on the round reels made elsewhere with the Abu label on them.

@@allenbmooresharinginformation hey, do you know where to buy an upgraded rebuild kit to turn them into an ultra cast rocket?

The B14 does have a lot going for it, but massive weight difference and cost were factors leading me to the BMR.

My pleasure!

They finally got around to talking with me and provided return shipping and an eventual refund. I opted for just installing an after market cheek riser on the stock that came with the rifle after dealing with this failure and seeing how short that stock was with adjustments.

I bought the CV bipod in the past when it was far cheaper and I was less knowledgeable about bipods. This video is the first time I have "used" the CV bipod in years. The MDTs I enjoy now are clearly a better option.

@@allenbmooresharinginformation what are some cons you have found with it compared to more expensive bipods?

@@NittyGritty420 The CV is stable enough for less precise work so you could hunt with it inside traditional distances. Off a bench or a solid pad, the CV has more flex than the MDTs I now prefer and is less precise. The other thing I dislike about CV and all the traditional Harris bipods is the time it takes to attach and take them off of rifles compared to the MDTs I use now. th-cam.com/video/qVM_flUhuAY/w-d-xo.html

@@allenbmooresharinginformation oh I see. So it’s not necessarily the CV bipod that has cons but Harris style bipods in general. Thanks for replying

Actual name-brand Harris bipod and other higher dollar options will also have less flex and are probably more durable. I've compared side by side on the bench with others at range seeing the benefits. I hate sounding like a snob on bipods with my background being hunting and military, but you do get some benefit from the additional cost. For the shooting most of us do this benefit is not significant.

I think it can do the job, but I've got tons to learn as a shooter at those events. The first NRL 22 outing for me had me as the only newb and it was also my first time shooting past 100 at target with winds gusting into the 20s. I recently found an Arca plate at a reasonable price too which I'll be doing a video on in future you might be interested in learning about.

I’ll be interested in seeing the arcs update. The M-lok plates make sense to me, but I’m curious how sturdy they are on these traditional stocks with only a couple of attachment points. I’m in the exact same spot as you are. I’ve never gone to a match. I have zero experience shooting out to 100 yards in wind. The matches look like a ton of fun, and I like the idea of challenging myself to learn how to operate a scope and rifle under pressure. The rifles that are typically recommended are never in stock in my area (Tikka/CZ). There are zillions of Ruger precision rimfires in stores though. And my local Scheels has a few of these. I see that there are some chassis systems out there for this rifle, so if I love the sport, the gun can grow with me. Your experiences should help me decide. Keep up the good work!!!

We may end up learning together before it is all over with. The scope you and I paired this rifle with is a winner as well and the Arken line is the most common lower end offering I saw in the tournament I went to. I'll try to get the overview on the plate I found done this month and few install ideas based on my experience.

Heard its picky about ammo. Hope it likes CCI Velocitors, Stingers, or Uppercuts. Ive got some maxi mags and garden variety 40 grain Aquila’s as well. We will see how it likes any of those.

​@@CustomJeep ammo is limited to mostly standard velocity rounds. Owner manual discourages use of many high and hyper velocity rounds due to bentz chambering of this rifle. I highly recommend starting off with CCI SV.

It is definitely the best overall baitcasting reel ever from my vantage point. No reel can do everything, but this is close to it for the larger fish.

In that stock, yes you can even feel the 22 lr recoil. I am not saying that it is scary or painful. That little bit of recoil does make follow up shots take longer.

Thanks!

Happy to share and thanks for watching. One of the largest factors for me was the actual cost here in the States and the MSRP (low enough listed cost for base class). I'd be looking at other options at twice the price!

Happy to share and glad I could help you out. I didn't realize how perfect the weight of the Hogue stock was until I shot the MOE X22 and could actually feel a bit of recoil. The Magpul Hunter stock weighs significantly more and there are plenty of reviews on that.

I ended up transitioning to a Power Drive model by Minn Kota after lots of research and even prayer. Things are going well thus far, and I plan on doing a review on this in the future.

@@allenbmooresharinginformation That is great news! Glad you found something that is working. I just watched a whole mess of videos of guys saying the do/donts of trolling motors and describing their experiences. It seems that... way oversizing the trolling motor is key for longevity. One of the keys anyways. The other major one was getting simpler setups. The less to break the better. Another was... don't have the motor plugged in while charging the batteries.

@@great0789 the only reason I considered another model by Minn Kota were my experiences with smaller 12 volt powered motors I have used in ponds and lakes for decades with the only issue being the clamps needing replacement. It appears from my own experiences, observations, and discussions that this model by Minn Kota is a bad outlier. Hand tiller models are not the focus with larger powered trolling motors and did not get the love it should. With the remote control option now available I do not see myself ever getting a 24volt tiller trolling motor again.

@@allenbmooresharinginformation OK. Thank you. I did not know the Riptide also came in higher voltage versions than 12V. I am only interested in 12V myself! I have a little 1436 Jon and want to get the 12V Riptide tiller most likely. Trying to keep it light... but want enough power to be able to still move in ripping current in the inlets near me (1.5 to 2 knots). I really want one with spot lock... but hear anything other than a tiller model will spook fish on the salt flats that a heavily pressured like they are in my area.

@@great0789 The original and second I had was 80lb thrust and the third and final was 70lb. I believe you need 24 for anything more than 40lb which is needed for my fiberglass boat. Spot lock is not nearly as great as it is made out to be by the paid testimonials. In deeper water, I have used it with some success. The constant variation in speed likely spooks fish in shallower water.

I ended up just adding a cheek riser to the original stock which is working out pretty well for me.

@allenbmooresharinginformation mine is synthetic and I was looking at wood stocks. I would still like one but wouldn't buy this garbage Boyds after what I seen here. That is crazy. Still searching

SAP Outfitters site may be worth a look. EBay is an option for consideration too. With some dremel and bedding work this stock is OK now that I have the added riser.

EBay could be an option for you to look at. I'm happy with adding a cheek riser now on my rifle. Likely people will be selling wooden stock for after market like I tried to do.

​@allenbmooresharinginformation yeah I am going to look today. I will try both those places you mentioned. Thanks for the info!

Several other options to try out there that claim to help the health of bait. The container of Sure Life is not cheap, but you don't use a large portion of the container if you are using water for a dozen or two of minnows. I think it's the best investment for keeping bait alive.

@@allenbmooresharinginformation Yes, I thought about the fact that I would be using a very small amount. But I was considering that I only buy a few dozen minnows a year. So I guess I could save the bottle for 20 years so that I get my money's worth out of it. Lol

Kept in a cool dry place for most of that time and I'd imagine it would last that long. Left in my boat it has easily lasted over two years several times now.

Kept in a cool dry place for most of that time and I'd imagine it would last that long. Left in my boat it has easily lasted over two years several times now.

Kept in a cool dry place for most of that time and I'd imagine it would last that long. Left in my boat it has easily lasted over two years several times now.

Thanks for watching and glad you enjoyed it. Unless you feel a need for going under 2lbs for a trigger pull I can't see spending three or four times more money for the Kidd and Volquartsen options. Tac Sol option which costs 299 is promised to break at 2.5 which is a higher pull than the BX I run. I'll be doing another review on the Summit Precision carbon fiber barrel too which is an upgrade to consider as well as the lower cost Shaw which is the after production barreI have used for several years.

You can use and fully enjoy one of these without my recommendation. The concept, as I said, was great. I hope they modify the design to make it better for users in the future.

I retired this POS some time back now and after much debate and research I ended up going with Power Drive Minn Kota and almost two years in now and I've been happy. Hopefully my bad trolling motor streak is a thing of the past now.

Consider looking at the Arken scope lineup if you wish to get a MOA or Mil reticle for bullet drop. On a budget they are hard to beat for quality.

When it worked it did the job fairly well. The frequent part failures have me warning others that this seems to be a terrible defective model where you can expect problems soon after purchase. I think you should keep that Maxxum even in salt water and just hose off after use and steer clear the rip off model. I've used other Minn Kota models and I've been happy, but that particular line is a constant loser.

No end on this one, just cheap easy solution with electrical/grey PVC which is a bit more robust than plumbing grade. You can get true stake out pole for around 100 dollars that can do the job better in more firm bottoms.

Thanks for watching and I'm glad I could give you some information to consider. I wish it was more a video on how it works than it how it doesn't in this case. I was looking forward to putting that stock to work at the range before doing a review.

@@allenbmooresharinginformation yeah it's a shame the stock don't fit it was 700$ right?

@user-nh4zm6xj5d With an additional sling, shipping, and the American tax theft the total cost was over 300 US. I did get an email response to the voice mail I left them yesterday. Boyd initially said they just needed the reason and when I responded they wanted me to do photos side by side and never bothered to respond to my second email. It looks like I'll likely have to dispute this charge since they are being passive-aggressive about this return process now.

My video did not really do justice for you to see how poor the attempt to seat it in the stock was. Were it just a bit of dremel work then I'd have done it, as I had to do for the original stock still in use. The screw could have been replaced as I mentioned too. This was short of getting seated into place by around an inch and I don't trust myself to be that accurate at modifying something without damaging it. A bit of refinement I'd have been fine with, but sadly it looked like this just got tossed in the crate and shipped off without anyone caring about the end user.

Had it on, past tense now. F19 Sundance, which is a semi v fiberglass skiff around 1500 lbs before adding 90 HP Suzuki and gear. When it worked, the thrust power was decent so long as you were not dealing with a stronger current on rivers or discharge from a dam.

I agree, it isn't cheap and definitely not for everyone. A complete setup for a small Jon Boat or another traditional plastic small pontoon could be bought multiple times for the cost of this boat with motors in the hull. This boat is unique and can do many things no other at present can do for maneuverability and control while actively fishing. No one that is not very passionate about fishing and using a boat frequently should consider investing in this.

Still a 10/22, but definitely not as reasonably priced when you get into upgrades. It is still reliable, but more accurate with basic marksmanship skills.

Glad you got lucky since I'd say three strikes in a row is not the standard for lemons. I do fish more than most, but I've never been mean to equipment.

Glad I could help you out.

That is one of the reasons I chose this rifle. It is similar in handling to the Browning A Bolt .270 I hunt with.

I would have considered a CZ but the safety configuration on those is just not something I want to learn and transition back and forth with when using other firearms. The tang safety on the American is the same way the Browning rifles are which is one of the things that convinced me to go this route. My dream solution would be an no longer produced Browning A-Bolt made in .22, but those used can cost three times the cost of this rifle.

@@allenbmooresharinginformation I own a CZ 527 varmint in .223 Rem, so no probs with the safety.

@@geordiegeorge9041 makes total sense. Keeping it simple for muscle memory that way.

I'm happy to share the information and I am sure it will help you out a great deal. It has never gone bad on me and when working a full time job I don't get to catch and fish with shad as much as I'd like so I have had a 6oz bottle last me well over a year. After shaking the bottle up I just squirt a small stream of probably a tablespoon worth into the water and stir with my net. That's all it will usually take to destroy tons of ammonia bubbles. Unless I was a guide and had large bait tanks of shad kept at home I'd never consider buying a 3lb container with the concern that this stuff may go bad over multiple years.

I hope you enjoy it. Mine has the same functionality of my deer rifle which I think is intelligent to do. In addition to being a fun plinker it helps me to train up at low cost.

@@allenbmooresharinginformation I bought it as an understudy for my Mossberg 'Thunder Ranch' MVP LR in.5.56NATO.

I agree that for your use I think the kydex on pontoons only makes sense as well. I run mine aground on banks so I actually had more visible damage on the center point. I rarely fish this boat where I have an actual ramp or pier I can make use of. The price for adhesive and kydex is definitely more appealing than the manufactured option and gives a bit more coverage as well. It has been in the water about 30 hours thus far and appears very solid with the intermediate in place I used. The yak guys appear to be in love with this solution on their plastic hulls using less robust adhesive and silicone.

Thanks for sharing with those that doubt my experiences. The power issue may be the connection. The last port for connection wore out after surviving a couple of these. I've transitioned to the power drive so if you want a free slightly used rip off I can let you have my old one no one else will take :)

That is a great additional point to share and I'm sure you are correct.