วีดีโอ

I bought the proper grease, followed instructions, made no difference. It was the rubber seals sticking to the frame. Clean with elbow grease & then put some WD 40 on a bit of kitchen paper & give everything a wipe round. That'll fix it 👍

Ajme

je l zna neko da l postoji cela ova emisija negde na internetu da se pogleda ?????

"ja cu otvorit javnu kucu sa kozama, pa ljudi nek jebu koze" hahahahhaha koja jebena legenda

Raos ima kvocijent dvaput jači od svih onih koji su zvali zajedno ...Jel ovo onaj sindikalist podguzna muha koji se kasnije uvukao u stranku pa se dočepao Sabora .....eeeee?!

Another important thing! To update the screen, you need to format a microSD with 4096 byte of size of alocation unit. It was impossible to do on a 32GB partition. You need to delete this partition using a partition software and create a 8GB partition or use a 8GB microSD.

It wasn't bricked. You was needed to update the screen. otherwise the screen will be freezed exactly as is. When the user have no success. The support team prefer to send another MoBo. Trust me. Your old motherboard is working fine in other S1 Pro. I know, the update process of S1 Pro is a littler confuse, but after update the MoBo fw, it's seens to be bricked, but not, you just need to update the screen.

I had same problem today. After many test I tried to print using USB and it worked, so printer FW was ok. Problem was the display. Even formating the SF card, it was not working. Finally I decided to remove SF card partition and creata new partition and format again. I could finally update display FW and everything is working now.

I have the same problem, did you manage to solve it?

I have a question, i just got an ender 3 s1 pro and my nozzel seems to be heigher than the level probe, if i put the paper under it, unlike yours the nozzel isnt the thing holding onto thw paper, mine is the level sensor, and its dragged the first layers off the bed, does anyone know how to fix this?

Man o Man guys come on!!! Preheat your bed to 80 degrees or so .... preheat your nozzle to 200 or so ... now shut the heat off both the nozzle and bed. While still everything is still hot it's time to level it PROPERLY!!! go to your aux level. Put a piece of paper under the nozzle but not the probe! and press on Zero "0" now manual adjust your Z steps so that your nozzle is barely scratching your paper. Once you have the center "0" set then go to each corner "1,2,3,4" and set your nozzle to paper height with the wheels ... don't worry about the center of the bed just yet ... check all four "4 " corners multiple times till all four "4"corners feel the same always using your paper as a feeler gauge! Now send the nozzle back to the center of your bed "0" and check the nozzle to paper again. If the paper is to loose or too tight then adjust the nozzle height with the "Z" step switch on your screen. Once you have done these steps you go back to Auto Lvl and let auto go through its process. Once Auto Level is done ... exit Level menu and Print! is not that complicated!! I've been printing with this printer for a year now with absolutely no issues. I do find that the springs are a little too light and I need to relevel the printer after about one roll of filament or so ... but it only takes maybe 10 minutes to do and your good to go for another roll! If you end up lifting the PEI Magnetic Build Plate off the bed then I suggest you do a re level!

na S1 složiti retraction od 0,8-1mm i zeleni print izgleda ko da fillament ima puno vlage u sebi...

Pozdrav, bed leveling je dosta jednostavan na S1 PRO: 1. manualni leveling po rubovima (koristiti papir i ne raditi level po sredini) 2. kad su rubovi slozeni napraviti auto level 3. kad je auto level gotov treba ponovno uci u aux. lvl i sloziti z offset (isto koristeci papir) to je to!

Throw the spirit level away as that's not going to help. Make sure you save your settings after carrying out the tramming procedure.

Open the screen. There is an sd card slot. Flash the screen.

Genijalno

I manually level the bed with paper first using Aux, starting at position 1 and adjust the wheels to get all corners as close to the same as possible, then position 1 should be the same as the corners. If there is a bigger space in the middle the bed is possibly warped as I have just found mine is. Anyway I do the manual levelling forst then when it is as good as I can get it then do an auto level, that way it is already very close and the auto levelling can fine tune it to be supposedly perfect. If you start with auto levelling and the bed is a little too far out the auto level will fail and my printer when it fails I have to turn it off and then back on to be able to do anything again, it gets stuck on the fail screen. After two fails I checked the bed with a steel ruler and it is bent like a banana. There are a few options now and I will look at them today and see where I go from here. You don't need a spirit level. Check your bed is flat with a steel ruler or something you know is 100% straight. If your bench or table is not perfectly level the spirit level will only complicate things for you. The bed needs to be level with the print heads travel not level by a bubble.

6:25 Raos dragi kako si dobro zamislio sve ali nazaolost nista od bonova! hahahhahaha Raos Legenda!

Just Vlad has the best setup TH-cam video I’ve seen and does just what you explained. I followed him exactly and made flawless prints right out of the box on me S1 Pro.

I had that problem, had to loosen the wheel to get a dip just enough to make the sensor work. If this is the case, just put something like 20mm just under the sensor when it's homing to see if it stops then. If it does, it's time for some acme. (dip)

looks like your layer height, travel and retraction speeds are for non direct drive . I have same machine printing the ultra fine layer height of 0.1

I fucking solved the issue 1. Manually level the bed 2. Run auto leveling 3. Level only the center (z off set ) with baby steps and ignore the rest of the four points of the bed bacause of number 2. 4.print

You must flash both main firmware and screen firmware for it to work

same problem here

Update to the last firmware for the board and the screen

Jesi li S1 Pro kupio u VoxelLab-u u BGu?

I own this fabulous yet piece of garbage... First 2 prints were fine. Then the Direct drive got jammed - had to take the entire thing apart just to get inside the part that jammed. Bed adhesion has been an ongoing struggle and now I have the 203 probe fail error. Re-levelled the bed manually at least 5 times in hopes to fix it. Have tightened/lossened everything. Always the same corner fails regardless. Hours later...Know how I solved it? Stop using Auto Bed levelling. Makes no difference from what I can tell so far. A good manual levelling procedure and slicer settings should do the trick and you can soldier on.

Mine did the same and the problem was the SD card. Try a new 8GB SD card formatted to FAT32. My printer is now working perfectly!!!

any updates on this?

Quelqu'un parle français j'ai exactement le même problème. Avec ma S1 pro...

The way it works for me is to run auto leveling and, after it is done, then put a paper on position 1 (center point), hit the previous button, which takes you into manual leveling, press 1 to go to the center, and then adjust the Z height on screen for that center position with the paper. I consider the autoleveling measurements RELATIVE to this last manual adjustment. However, the first time I ran the machine, and every so often, maybe once a week, I would do a full manual leveling, using the paper. Level the corners with the wheels under the bed plate, and the center point with the machine Z level. Do that at least 3 times until it seems balanced all around. Also, I perform any type of leveling with the tip and bed hot. Hope that helps.

How did you solve? I'm going through the exact same hell just now

It's not bricked, just update the screen

Use the baby step command to set the centre home Z offset position and then Aux level from there.

the prove is purple so that means printer is working fine, connect the printer to pronterface , make sure the COM port is the one ur printer is using and then click connect and send a g28 code if printer response then that means something is happening with the screen firmware , drive.google.com/drive/folders/1dCl-9O7Sz4ZR31Rmukfx8ZpWjROT2yTq?usp=sharing here there's the stock firmware , if u haven updated the firmware it means u have the stock one so you might have to change ".bin" files name to something else (ex. "Ender 3 s1 pro.bin") .... if ur printer is 32F4 create a "STM32F4_UPDATE" folder and put the bin file there and outside the folder so u will end up having to copies of the bin file .. flash the printer without the screen and then turn it of and flash the screen , u have to copy and paste the private folder into a micro sd and open the screen module so u can insert the sd card , test the firmware with pronterface before and after so u can get an idea if the printer is updating correctly just send "M115" g Code

i want to mention that i had a problem where i though i was updating the printer firmware but in reality doesn't matter how many times i tried i couldnt make it work , the screen waas just frozen , but the printer did respond when connected to pronterface so i ran a m115 g code to test the firmware and for some reason the printer wasnt even updating when putting the sd card , so i was kind of desperate cause i tough the sd card slot was dead since i was using the sd that came with the printer, and the sd was okay because windows did read the memory turns out that when i finally decided to try with other memory card it just worked and the printer updated no problem , so i thing it had to do something with the format of the sd that has to be w95 fat32 and somehow it lost the format , so far i haven't been able to make the 8gb sd card that came to the printer to work so that one is dead right know and since i just insatlled klipper that doesnt matter anymore , if u dont have a PI but have a old pc i recommend u to install klipper insted since it is more reliable than the shitty custom marlin that creallity forced us to use

Is there a screen Dwin FW that came with the board FW?

I thought I was the only one! I’ve been trying to send my printer back ever since I got it. The air difuser came broken, the power supply was defective and the printer shut down when attempting to pre-heat. The so called Auto Calibration has to get calibrated Manually?! And they dare charge $550 for this crap? Customer service has made it impossible to return the machine. I was stupid enough to buy directly from Creality in China so they make it impossible for you to rerun the machine and get your money back. I have a bunch of videos but I don’t have the platform to make them public. I really hope they recall this model.

This happened tp me when I tried to update my S1 to the latest firmware. I had to put back the firmware version to came with. The instruction where not clear. It said to put the firmware in a folder call STM32F4_UPDATE, but it did not work so I just put the firmware in the card root and it booted.

Marko, commenter W Nedcargo is right. In the same situation, I was hesitant to open up the screen to update the firmware there, but once I did, I found out that the mainboard update had in fact worked, and now everything's running great. I used the July 11th update from the main site.

RAOS KRALJ A ZELJKO LEGENDA

Raos se gubio i gušio u samom svom Raosu, utapanje Raosa u Raosu. Njega bi neka udruga žena pribila na križ kad bi ga se dočepali. Sve je to humor i zabava ali i seksizam koji nije simpatičan u društvu. Ali, takva je emisija.

Ok, I've seen enough mine is going back tomorrow.

I'm having lots of problems with my ender 3 s1 pro as well. Have you done the firmware upgrade and did it help?

RAOS IZDOMINIRAO MOZAK COVEK GLUPI HRVARI NEZNAJU STA IMAJU OVOG DE GOD DA POSTAVIS URADICE NAJ POSO

work this out ?

Check creality after-sales here on youtube. There is a video teaching how to bed level s1 pro

This is what I did after multipel trial and error : 1. Change the spring to silicon solid mount 2. Go to aux levelling, and set the Z offset by using the paper gauge from creality 3. Proceed with auto bed levelling 4. In your slicer (cura), add this code below "G28" code : "M420 S1" 5. Before every printing, perform auto bed levelling

I see that it seems like the nozzle might have scratched through your rear left corner while moving the centre... the exact same thing is happening on my side.. I think they should just do the right thing and refund every faulty machine

Having the same issues as you, already sending back the machine to the local reseller