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hi / what type of sensor is it ?

Which transmission is this? My tr3650 i think it falls down over time or something then the cable saws itself into the housing

This is an update, sent out the unit and the handheld, Fitech replaced the ICU and updated with latest software, and returned it. Set up is much easier for me, starts and runs except for the fuel pump relay clicking and the pump cycling. If I press down on the relay, the one in side the small box, well the one on the right if I press on it the pump works for a while and I have press down on it again. But hold on, I noticed the harness that goes down to the 4l60e transmission has melted to header and I'm wondering if this is causing the issue with the relay shorting out, because the inline 10-amp fuse was popped. So, I had to cut the burnt wires and add new wiring. The wiring must have moved because I had rearranged them. Also, I figured out how to get the .5 ohm reading on the ground cables, and with I accidently got that when I loosened the negative cable, and decided to see if it made any difference and it id, wow, after replacing all the grounds and locations. Need to find another route for the trans harness and can't wait to start it.

thank you so much for this video!

Looking for one for a 4d56 engine. much appreciated if anyone can help.

Mine is melting the fuel pump in-line fuse? And the pump works if you change fuse……

Wish i could follow along better but hard to look a5 yours and figure out what and if i got that wire. I am going to take this video out to the truck.

Hello, Ray here and having a no ecu response, it's on offline always, and the sump tank it came with master lit does not turn on. I have the 12 volts at the white wire, and 11 volts. while cranking. The relay in small box and fuses have good voltage except for the voltage coming out of the ecu is less than 4v. key on. Installed it just over week ago, and drove it around while test driving and going through the handheld, and only got about 7 miles out of it. Was seating in the garage making adjustments and would start now then, then it gave up the ghost. I checked the grounds every place the engine and the system is grounded and relocate some, and the lowest reading on the resistance was 1.7 ohms, and the highest reading was 2.0 ohms. Tried resetting, re calibration, but no use it's offline. No ecu response. The fitech team tells me it's the data cable, another said it's the ecu, but they got me trouble shooting and nothing. How desperate do I need to sound to get a warranty ecu?

That gauge could be broken. Your pressure should be zero until you start the engine, why does it say 50 psi with key in engine on position?

Is that a skim coat? If so what product is it? Thanks

Stupid clip, only adjust the push rod make simple job.🤕

I like your car as it is; it has purpose and is well loved 👍

I had the same exact issue after installing a new clutch cable! lol I couldnt get the dust cover back on. Ended up pushing the fork up and you can feel/hear it "snap" back into place on the pivot ball. Now im paranoid it will come loose while driving for whatever reason lol but its been fine

only done it on air cooled small engines and never had a problem. run great over 800 hours. never had to do this to a honda they'll go 1k+ hours without even valve cover or intake manifold gaskets needing replaced.

you can pack the pilot bushing with grease and take a clutch alignment tool or a wooden dowel tight fitting, and hit the shaft tool or dowel with a hammer and the pilot bushing will come right out. The grease pressure will push it out easily.

god bless you, just saved me hours of time figuring it out myself

OMG!

Not sure why you posted this if you are determined that you do what you want, its your car, it is disappointing to see so little care has been put into a car that you built, which took a lot of concerted effort. lbut like you sayits your car and I don't want to see your car because you don't take care of it.

Has a great look 👀 I believe in driving as much as possible.

Love it.... Good for you. I myself live out in the country and have to drive 5 miles of gravel to the nearest paved road, and I drive my cars. My mustang is full of chips and rock chips.. My car, I painted it, and I drive it like I want. I dont baby it on the gravel I drive it.... Nice to know I'm not the only one.

Very cool nice to see you put that kind of mileage on it. Better than setting it in a garage as a trophy. Thanks for sharing. I’ve seen all your videos.

Absolutely no apologies necessary. Although I wouldn't drive around in primer for very long...everything else is cool w/ me! Your ride is a testimony to minimalistic functionality! Enjoy your next Power Tour! I may introduce myself at an event one day, w/ my guardsman blue CMC cobra tagging along. Cheers & Happy Motoring!

Eff the purists, it's your car, bring it to the London cobra show in Ohio, June 22nd to June 25th

How is this hooked up? Mine has the arrows on the motor plate but give me an IN and OUT on the filter plate. I don't know which line goes to which. And I can unscrew the plate on the motor for nothing. Any help boy I could use it.

Use putty is quickest way to sort

This was one of the reasons I didn't go with Factory Five. I thought their fit and finish is pretty poor. For someone who is a good body man I'm sure it's not a big deal but I'm not that experienced at body work. I'm not knocking their cars, every maker has some issues but this was an issue for me. Good luck on the build, can't wait to see what it looks like completed.

This was very helpful for me. Thank you!

Just found out the blue wire is the hot wire coming from the battery source.

Do you know if the blue wire on your fan connection is the hot wire? I’m having trouble finding this out

ayo its dr.phil

Aluminum head?

Looks like an AC Cobbra. Spelled the way Croc Hunter would have said it.

Where did you purchase the kit?

My man! You just made me a happy man. Long story short I replaced pilot, rear main flywheel, clutch, fork, stud and throw out due to a bad throw out bearing finally giving up and causing nasty noises. I finish the entire job (took three days... 🤬 transmission) and after getting it all back together my dust cover didn't fit and my throw out was squealing when pedal depressed. Instantly thought AM sent the wrong part as the flywheel they sent was wrong bolt pattern. Feeling defeated I gave up for a day and then started researching this morning and happened upon this vid. 🙌🏾 Welp, I can make it to work tomorrow. The simplest things that get overlooked... Problem solved, problem staying solved.

Hi sir, do you think 302 is enough power? I am planning to build one and just wounding how sounds different between 302 and 427? really want to hear some from you.

I converted my 76 cj7 jeep manual drum brakes to power disc brakes (brake conversion kit off ebay) and a YJ booster and mc with proportion valve off a YJ wrangler. I had to lower the brake pedal as the piston rod was too long and didn't match up with the brake pedal. Problem is, I have soft brakes. If I pump the brakes, it gets harder and I eventually stop. Brakes are always the same. Soft until I pump. Then hardens up and I stop.. Scary.. Any idea what is wrong? Also~~Can I adjust the piston rod to shorten it so the pedal won't be so low and would that fix the soft pedal issue? Thanks for the video... Not only educational but also funny...

Congratulations 🎊 you got it running

Sounded like the distributor was 180 out

Thank you for sharing the progress of your car. Very informative presentation, and a lot of useful information 👍

What wire did you use to power the running lights (bottom bulb)? Are you using a hot wire from your headlight switch? Got the top working just like the video…having trouble with the bottom bulb…

I've enjoyed watching your videos! I have a older, unbuilt CMC kit that is similar to the early FF mark I or II. Was wondering if you ever found the reasons for the front end turning noise, and the rattle near the back of the driver seat? I've been studying videos that have used, or unbuilt kits to see what "real world" problems arise. I like the fact that you are using the car, and shaking-out the rattles...so to speak! That's brave! I have everything to build mine except the side pipes & fancy wheels & tires. I actually have a nice, coated set of Doug Headers, I may use, that go under the cobra. Also, I'm building the car w/ a C4 automatic & 347 ford stroker I had built. I understand, Carroll Shelby's personal car was a small block, w/ a C4, and underside headers and exhaust! So much for everyone saying "it's not a real cobra, w/ an auto"! I hope to see your car finished.... mine will be at my "life-events" discretion! And probably get the same treatment as yours. Thanks for the informative videos! Ron

What brake booster system did you use? How did you solve the soft pedal? My pedal goes to the floor?

Quick Question: How did you prep the underside? Water and Soap, then allow to dry? Or did you do a quick sand? If yes, what grit? I grabbed the same bedliner you used -- lot of folks were talking about that brand.

What taillight housing did you use? What were the product numbers on the bulbs you were using?

How’s she running now?

Fitech is known for defective ecu's , even right out of the box ( I don't understand why they don't pretest every single unit for at least a day before there shipped out and to their retailers ) as well the ecm , tend to heat up , cuz of where they located it .. It's A Fact intake manifolds get HOT, therefore transferring its heat to the ecm ....Every One Knows ECM's Don't Like Heat!!..Apparently Fitech has their own perspective!!

Pinholes but why?

See these are the reasons why I've decided to keep my not quite as efficient carb setup. All I need is to be out in the middle of who knows where when all this new technology decides not to cooperate. They cost too much money anyway.

Factory Five are good people. My dad built an A/C Shelby from them in the late 90s.

This guy is stupid.