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Hey, i downgraded from stage 11 i think to stage 9, run better, i dont think new injectirs made any big difference, its just keep me busy 😁, i left stage 9 in with new injectors

Don't know about that 🤔😁

Definitely good time to replace it 😁

Wunderlich

thank you!@@bikescarsdiyskydiveeveryth1507

Manual 10w40 , I use that just because wet clutch but could be different for different countries

@@bikescarsdiyskydiveeveryth1507 thanks

Yes that quite possible, it's up to individuals to do research.

Hi. I presume you talking about 2 bolts that hold shock on top? They 10mm head not sure about thread . Not to long just try what fit in about inch and half long 4 - 5cm ish just make sure put threadlock

Thanks mate I thought mine had come off but they are still there. I'm going to use this video to fix mine thanks for posting this 😊

1st i tighten bolt loose, put wheel back on , drop car of the jack, then torque bolts on the ground .

Thanks for your prompt reply,I shall go and do that now !!@@bikescarsdiyskydiveeveryth1507

Because its stuck in the hub and I don't have big enough puller so just left shaft in , makes no difference

Hey, ah that was years ago can't remember now , probably ebay , its cabtune 4 way , you can get 2 way too.

@@bikescarsdiyskydiveeveryth1507 I’m just about to buy upgrade chip from John, stage 15 one advised by him after details of my bike shared. Hope it all goes to plan, with upgraded injectors too

th-cam.com/video/FD4HRBgFE48/w-d-xo.htmlsi=0_1YRZhPu53cdtD1

Hey , yes there 1" risers

delphi tc2252

Many thanks for kind words. That point of this videos, not to teach how to do it but to show even amature could do it .

Hey, well if R1150 , then you need bleed 3 separate circuit , from handle bars to ABS module, and the 2 separet circuits from the wheels to ABS module, its bit more complicated , but on R1100 it's regular ABS .

@@bikescarsdiyskydiveeveryth1507 I didn't mean R1150 or even newer ones, only the oldest RT with ABS without fluid reservoir - if you look for tutorials on YT most of people take the tank off to bleed through the valves on pressure modulator. I inderstand it may be a more specific method if You want to make sure You got rid of any air in the system but if You just want to change the fluid I would di it your way. - that's what i wanted to say.

@@tomrider4003 yes I agree, unless it's airlock, but some people have OCD so for them that extra drop make them better sleep. I don't use videos as tutorials, I read manual 1st then use videos as cross reference and if there steps to bypass I probably will.

@@bikescarsdiyskydiveeveryth1507 manual.. yes but it is not answering all the questions.. f.e i' ve changed rear break pump recently so I was excepting full rear system bleed will be necessary because of some air that I believe must have infected the system when the hose was disconected from the old pump. I didn't bleed and brake seems to work fine. But I suppose meaby it's better to bleed throufh the valves under tank so the system will release out one or two bubbles..? What U think ? Hope It is not OCD ;)

@@tomrider4003 hi. Well if still air in the system then brakes be spongy, I never had to bleed 1100 at abs module. So if brake working OK then I guess it's ok.

Hi, ok for start I'm not mechanic, but do couple checks, turn wheel all the way left and do circle if under power her clicking noise then it's possible cv joint then try right, normally cv joints will have nois only when turning under power, if driving straight and having kind of hum or grinding noise possible wheel bearing , if jack up wheel of the ground and spin by hand you will hear and fill. On other hand hold tripod and drive shaft and feel fif play there.

@@bikescarsdiyskydiveeveryth1507 yes mate , have done u said .. shaft has some play .. and knocking.. have ordered the bearing ..

Thanks for message, about bolt holds handlebars, probably striped tread that why used longer bolt with nut, and hop you sort your seals too it's easy enough. Unless it's damaged but there is plenty and cheap second hand.

Hey. Ok for start find out its gear oil not engine, then you can have look under where driveshaft enter gearbox , if oil there , then more likely its output shaft seal on way out, any problem with clutch? If it is then possible input shaft leaking if engine oil then could be crank seal , check oil levels in the box , some seals fitted from inside box some from outside, can't remember which ones, not big issue but plenty to take apart 😬

@@bikescarsdiyskydiveeveryth1507 cheers, Thank you for quick reply. I’m almost 100% sure it’s gear oil. There’s also a leak at the smaller side of the drive boot gaiter, at the back of the shaft.

@@gerryomahony263 yeah no hassle, if leaking from around gaiter then it might be final drive inputs shaft seal , just take boot off and have look if any oil in final drive. Not biggy eather. But it would have to come off.

Oh aswell it could leak from thread and from collar

Thanks

Not sure , you mean bolt size? I presume it's same 21 or 22mm

18mm or 21mm, check which one before you buy. Also ratchet spanner makes the job a lot easier

Ah cheers 🍻, I wouldn't mind don't even have that bike 🤣

Hey, no , all 1100, 1150RT come in one tone colour, I design and got someone to paint for me , about 8 years back

Unfortunately I don't have torque settings.

Not sure what that means 🤔

Well it's hard to tell, all jobs done gradually and i don't have stock bike to compare with. I'm sure there is benefit but not extreme. Fuel consumption like I said in other video too, I only commute short city drive so bike still cold and moving true traffic, on full tank I do about 180mls ±, no motorway driving . If I get chance to compare with stock bike I defiantly make video, anyway for price of part I think it's worth of upgrade.

Hey David. Yes good question, this was temporary job, because I had couple different chips so I wona try wich is best for me, aswell when I open box old silicon was hard and stayed in one place attached to one side so it would act as gasket. But when done permanent job I sealed it.

Is that what the whirring noise is when you turn the key before firing it up? I'm having startup issues and when I crank it sometimes draws too much power and the bike does a factory reset on the display. Only sometimes though. But the whirring noise sometimes doesn't go away before I crank it. Is it the ABS pump or servo inside the exhaust getting stuck maybe?

Yes I read about that problem on ukgser , I checked and my wiring was OK, yeah another possibility..

Thanks for watching!

Definitely helps , love DeWalt quality

@@bikescarsdiyskydiveeveryth1507 about to do this job for 2nd time vid was a great reminder. 50quid arms I bought n fitted last time are being swapped out, tore ball joint boots swapping out suspension. Still perfect apart from torn boots. So cheap 55quid arms work great.