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I always use klein. Never had an issue with their products.

What is up with all the jump cuts? Annoying. Thank god you don’t work in metrology. Horrid terminology.

Can you make a video on basics of how to use a multimeter. I’m a plumber, and I want to know more, but I don’t have access to a school with my schedule.

Well explained :-)

We're about to move into a new house, so I've been absorbing great videos like this. One thing I can tell you is that the spirit level on the mounting box trick ... whoever did the sockets in this house DID NOT DO THAT! OMG, every one is crooked and it's so visually annoying. TY for the great informative video!

K. L. E. I. N.

Fluke= long term reliability

I learned of another measurement not typically seen on many meters. "Inrush" amp draw. Some Klein's have it and some do not.

When it comes to something you will essentially bet your life and career on, don’t cheap out and just buy Fluke. The durability and reliability of a fluke is unmatched.

Love the wagos

Can you fix the link for the Fluke 323, as this link goes to the KLEIN CL800 - I wish you also included in your comparison the UEi multimeters

He talks in question marks.

Not a head to head. 1) Fluke is an industrial meter with credential and 3rd party testing to prove it. Klein is a jobber made meter mass produced cheap and has Klein's name on it. Comparing Klein to Fluke is like comparing a Ford Ranger to a Peterbuilt. They are not even in the same universe. I suggest you define the scope of who where and how the meter will be used first. For example this would be a relevant video if Klein and Greenlee, or Klein and Ideal were head to head. Klein and Fluke??? Apples vs Canelopes or whatever. DIY/home use 120/240 single phase home or home shop the Klein is probably OK. ANYTHING Klein on 3 phase particularly 480V forget it. Fluke is made by Fluke in their factory anywhere in the world they make it. They supervise quality and safety compliance. Check Klein out they DO NOT make this meter. They go to jobbers that build these things by the 10's of thousands for people like Klein every day. This meter states ETL for safety but Fluke has their meters tested to UL61010-1 which for the meter in question is a minimum of 6000V DC pulse test. Klein DOES NOT state tested. Look at the manual! Please there is so much dangerous misinformation out there about the right meter. Cost wise is the LAST possible way to evaluate a meter. Kinda like that cheap minimum auto insurance it's a deal TILL YOU NEED IT! I want you to research meter categories, meter testing, meter impedance, test leads and meter safety BEFORE you do one more review. The categories are critical. Meters like Fluke in the industrial models have the safety and testing to back up the cost and value. You need to know WHY if you plan to suggest or recommend any test device to anybody. Trust me 40 years in the trade, 20 of teaching meter safety and ESWP industrial safe work practices I can speak to this.

A few months ago I got an Amprobe (a Fluke brand) ACDC-52NAV from Amazon for $240. It has WAY more features than either of these. Like for example it can measure both the voltage and amps at the same time, so can report the active power (watts) and power factor. It can also report the total THD (current or voltage, and each of the first 25 harmonics individually). It can measure inrush current and phase rotation (for connecting 3-phases correctly). It measures both AC and DC current, resistance, capacitance, beeper, and a few other functions.

When it come to electricity I only trust fluke nothing else, it's cheap because of a reason.

.....so I ended up getting an AstroAI (4000 count TRMS AC/DC voltage & current 400a) for a grand total of $28.61.

Are both made in CHINA ??

You didn't do a resolution demo. Fluke is always the best. Klein, OK, if you want to wait for it to display a final reading. Cheaper does not mean better. Ideal brand are crap.

This is not apples for apples. The fluke 324 has all the features of the Klein. The 325 also does DC amps. For me the 324 has done well for me in hvac/r work.

I came to the comments for all the butt hurt Fluke users…and I was not disappointed 😂 I have nothing against Fluke and it is the best IF you can afford it. But in the same price range you get more with the Klein. I have a CL390 and I use it more for amp readings including DC which a fluke in that price range, so it’s not inline as often. That said if working in a commercial setting with higher voltages, the fluke would definitely be the way to go. I would suggest an actual shoot out than a feature list and also a discussion of who each meter would be best suited for. I think Klein makes a good range of meters, while maybe not Fluke level, but are closer in quality than your Harbor Freight or Amazon specials.

Fluke all day! Safer option.

This definitely is not an Apples To Apples comparison. A bare bones Fluke clamp meter. Maybe compare it to a Fluke 902FC or similar. Accuracy, speed, protection.

Take them apart and you will see the difference, the fluke is a much safer device when it comes to overloads, you will blow your fingers off if you make a mistake with the Klein. You get what you pay for.

Is that your idea of a unbiased comparison? Accuracy is less important than a lot of gadgets… But again who needs accuracy, you apparently don't…

"Fluke" Multimeter is 1000 times more accurate than the Klein Multimeter. Professional Licensed Journeyman Electrician use "Fluke". Non license Electricians use Klein, because they don't no better. Klein Multimeters are not accurate at all, they are +/- 25%. Fluke Multimeters are +/- 2% Now that you know the facts, which one would you buy?

Really depends what you need a clamp meter for, but if you're dealing with DC you'd want to lean toward the CL800 feature set. Where DC is concerned, it's nice to be able to monitor amperage and figure overall power use under various circumstances - helpful data for planning/designing a power system. LoZ (low impedance) DC voltage testing is helpful for checking batteries, too.

Rather than just listing specifications that anyone can read on their websites, you should actually test these against each other for accuracy, etc.

Fluke

ours at our complex are ancient - 50 years old. housing halfassed nailed to rafters/joists with drywall nails and/or bent over framing nail. swapping the housing requires cutting either the mounting tabs off with sawzall/multitool or cutting open the ceiling. or my least favorite - crawling through the attic. touching the exhaust duct is guarantee it will disintegrate or break off the hardpipe it's tied into

OR use a volt meter, never trust someone else's installation.

Great info God continue to bless you

👍

Fun fact for the viewers: it’s actually a 20 second job, so even better!

I changed 2 3-way switches the controls one plug of a duplex outlet. After changing the switches the plug doesn't turn off. Thought I made the connections the same. I did remove the tab on the outlet. Both switches have white red and black wires with the white and red as the travelers. Not sure what's wrong.

keep posting the videos sir

Nice explanation sir

What a beautiful explanation

Just use the wire stretcher

I installed these about 4-5 years ago and already one USB port is lose. They don't last plugging in and leaving a wire in there. I got rid of these outlets and went to the multi plug off amazon has 5 outlets and 4 USB ports. You just remove the wall plate screw and plug it into any outlet and screw the center in so it locks to the wall. I can easily replace it if gets worn out without having to cut the power.

USB receptacles are convenient in the golden age of unified 5V2A USB charging about 10 years before until all sorts of f*cking fast-charge protocols come out, ruining all the efforts paid to create a standardized way of charging phones. BTW they use up a little amount of energy even if there's nothing plugged in. Nice for public spaces, but not an eco-friendly and economic choice for homes

Occasionally I like to challenge myself and leave it plugged in then split the wires..

Using a receptacle as a wire junction is incorrect and unacceptable you need to pigtail it to do it properly.

I killed many multimeters while trying to test AC voltage when the selector knob was set in resistance/amps mode by mistake!

Good video, thnx! I didn't see the tie until 4:20-love it!📍

There is still a RadioShack in Columbiana, Ohio. Problem solved lol.

Very informative video, thank you!

Wrap tape around at least 3times safety measures ❤😊

Does a solution like this support the USB Power Delivery (PD) specification? More specifically, 5V, 12V/15V, 20V, 28V, 36V, and 48V at 2A, 3A, and 5A? What about Programmable Power Supply (PPS)?

USB power will be transient. I wouldn't bother if I were you with such wall sockets, unless you plan swapping again for whatever power delivery standard emerges in the next decade. You have a switched mode power supply permanently powered, wasting energy and creating RF smog. Like all electronic devices, they will fail eventually and are unlikely to last as long as the sockets which can last for many decades.