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Rtech Lab
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 2 พ.ย. 2012
Electronics Hints, Tips, Teardowns and Projects.
วีดีโอ
Boaties... lining the cabin, cleared off and installing insulation
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Boaties... lining the cabin, cleared off and installing insulation
Boat Update... we need legs!
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This was a half day really but it feels like I might be winning... The boat wishlist is at... www.amazon.co.uk/hz/wishlist/ls/3KVV44T8Y3MF3?ref_=wl_share
More engine running. turn up the sound.
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So that's both engines now run. I really can't wait to get both running at once.
Non existent equipment and splodey fuel lines
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Non existent equipment and splodey fuel lines
End of Loxwood Joust for the year and long overdue update and catch up
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End of Loxwood Joust for the year and long overdue update and catch up
Time to tackle power distribution and green crusties
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Time to tackle power distribution and green crusties
First weekend at Loxwood at The Wake Festival
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First weekend at Loxwood at The Wake Festival
Update, new digs, and why I've been away
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Update, new digs, and why I've been away
A wander around under Ft Gillkicker @IKS-Exploration @SubExploration
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A wander around under Ft Gillkicker @IKS-Exploration @SubExploration
What's up, err Thursday, Wednesday, Friday? I have no clue at this point
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What's up, err Thursday, Wednesday, Friday? I have no clue at this point
Sir Can you Know the External CT Ratio and what's it secondary Current of that CT which comes with pzem
Heyy today in front of my home light striked and after that my wifi isn't working
Was more downwards than sideways
Hope you’re ok!!!!
@@Ryuryumi fractured T12, L1 and L2. Not badly and probably bed rest
Damn!:( get some rest and get well soon
Can epoxy fill any rotten spots then just white paint.
Lenna Mountain
Hi, I have a simple question: I'd like to buy a refurbished OLT instead of a DSLAM for a good price. From which seller did you get your DSLAM if you purchased it online? Great video, many thanks! Cheers!
Sounds great, congrats!
Sounding good! Congrats
they certainly sound good , you've got them up and running quick
when do you reckon that clipper gps thingy was made ? looks fairly old
@@FNIX_Productions They are still on sale
Loving the progress , would certainly like to see boaty teardowns , good luck with the build
I envy people who can leave relatively expensive items outside unattended without unduly worrying about theft. Nice weather for it.
@@Fester_ There are people on site till Sun and its not technically unsupervised even then.
Glad to hear you’re okay, thanks for showing us around, can’t wait to see what you do with it! Keep safe
nice boat , cant wait to see what u do with it
Hi mine just started to leak oil and has soot around the 3rd injector, what did you end up doing to rectify it? Thanks
In my case the seal on no 4 had gone and it then erroded the upper plasticseal and o-ring then torched the rocker cover. First thing is to pull the injector, retreive the copper washer and then clean the seat, fit new seals and pop it back in. There seem to be a few variants with the hold down clamps. My original engine had nuts, which were a pain. The new one has a mix of nuts and these long cap style nuts which I beleive are newer and address issues with the nuts. The seals are available as a kit as are the newer bolts I beleive. There also seems to be different sized copper washers, but for the price of them, get them from your main dealer. Then its air box off, crack the injector pipe loose, slowly with something over it. loosen at the rail, swing the pipe out of the way. Slip the spill pipe clip free and gently move it out of the way, its fragile and may be safter to take them all off. Remove the electrical connector and undo the hold down clamp, then a little wriggle and pull up. If its been leaking a while you may require a slide hammer style injector puller. If its a mess on the end you'll want a seat cleaning tool and possible a seal removal tool to get the copper washer. Keep all deisel lines spotlessly clean.
can you find the output wire from this module to trigger relay
That shouldnt be hard as its just driving a solenoid.
That looks pretty neat, and the clicking is nice and old-timey, too.
yes it's cheap;y made. does it work? does it erase eproms?
It does, and as other posters have mentioned, it's fixable. Mine doesn't anymore though... I've lost it
Is there any information available where to get these refurb sets?
Drop our channel email address a note
I cannot find any email address in the channel info.
Cheap show, who's only real passion was taking your money. The owners zero personal interest other than that. Pickering Traction Engine Rally, was by far the very best.
With all due respect, utter garbage. One of the reasons it's gone is the management team wouldn't put the prices up!
Wonder if I can use a third party pen for this thing? Which pen will work with it?
Not sure. You''d have to experiment. It didnt see my Yoga or Note Stylus though
nice, look slike the grass valley video controller boards. glenakins played with those and made custom hardware for it to interface it.
th-cam.com/users/GlenAkinsvideos
It wouldnt surise me if there was some common ground. i've stopped for now. I have the LED displays working fine, just the buttons were driving me to distraction.
That's an interesting video, and the tips sound solid. Right now, I'm going all-in on dual-wipe sockets because $$$ but I appreciate the reasons to use turned-pin sockets.
Dual wipe are a pretty good choice too. the biggest issue is the single wipe junk a lot of manufacturers used.
Stop using Chinese telecom spyware 🇨🇳
You do your job, I'll do mine. If you can point to a single, solid shred of evidence that this DSLAM is a risk then I'm happy to hear it. Only, as network security professional, I know there isnt any.
Yea so lets risk national security because you want to use cheap Chinese made telecom equipment with spyware 🇨🇳
I have a Clarion PU-2610A replacement unit and need to eject the cassette (the unit is out of car). Do you know which connections for + and -? There are 4 on the back.
I don't, sorry :(
Oh, wow, it actually has a manta-shaped board inside. Had one of these two decades ago and I remember somehow, miraculously, managing to make it run under Mandrake Linux, even compiling the drivers myself at a time when I barely knew how to navigate the terminal. I'd have bet money that the casing had a funky shape but the internals were a normal rectangular board. Good thing nobody ever challenged that assumption!
There's a severe lack of forward planning on our roads nowadays!
Do you know where to find the schematic and pinout for that board ?
There isnt one :( Its a really nice board but lack of support for the PHY and no documentation make it all but useless.
HOW can I change ssh port from 22 to another number for MA5616 DSLAM
I'm not sure. The documentation is freely available and I would imagine its under the management setup.
the struggles I had with this as a kid with Bell Sympatico lol
What part needs to be replace ? From the fuel filter housing ? Please
The fuel primer bulb, its a rubber squeeze pump
@@rtechlab6254 I did change that part but still have bubbles in line
I don’t have a remote key. How do I fix the “engine disabled”? Do I need a new alternator?
You need your EKA code and follow this procedure. Sometimes the code is under the brake pedal rubber. Should also be in your manual. Failing that the main dealer can normally help.
Oh my God IS GLaDOS REAL?!?
Another cause of cutting out under load (that I've experienced on my Master Mk II 2.5 dCI 100 is worn injectors. (You may have encountered this already) Symptoms are: Initially loss of power around 3k rpm, you can feel that it's gone limp, no EML/MIL/Check Engine light. As it worsens over time - the ECU will shutdown engine without warning; you can't roll start the engine, and have to turn the ignition off then on to restart. You may also see code P0089 in this situation. Eventually it gets so bad that you daren't press the accelerator pedal on even the slightest incline. Leak-off test will show the injector(s) at fault. Injector codes need entering into the ECU via Clip.
Also choked EGR will do the exact same. They arent the best engines but I've had worse *cough* Ford TDCI *cough*
@@rtechlab6254 I've had a choked EGR on my Master, it didn't cause cutting out, but increasingly reduced power until the van could barely move under it's own power. It was a nightmare to clean out!
😪
Just had an issue similar to this. No EKA code on display, but security alarm on door opening and engine disabled code when trying to start. Disconnected battery and reconnected. Put key in ignition and set to #2, before cranking and let sit for about 10 minutes. No issues now.
The button at 20:48 is about the location of the manual mode button on Forerunner model EM01
Good catch! Thats almost certainly what it is.
Thank you very much Video help me to put eka code in my p38 Please keep up good work 👌👌👌👏👏👏👍👍
Glad it helped
How did you get the code
"PromoSM"
is this a recent vid?
Shot on day of upload.
@@rtechlab6254 excellent, i remember watching the iks vids of the fort a few years back
I've camped at this fort epic place 😊
Subbed to your channel 👍
Thanks for the sub!
@@rtechlab6254 welcome
This looks great , would love to explore
I've had an explore of this site a few times the two channels linked in the description did really good walk arounds. I've spent a while this morning working out fibre routing around the site.
Interesting but everything is switching to FTTP or Satellite Broadband from OneWeb and Starlink both the space based broadband will cost considerably more but might be worth the outlay if you want that.
"I'm possibly going to revise the heat sink...." (05:30) I think this is a very common problem, and possibly growing (see last paragraph). I've also added or improved cooling on quite a few home devices...even added additional ventilation holes and fans a few times (first making sure my mods won't contribute to cooling problems in other places in the device), and sometimes changed out the heatsink(s) entirely. In particular, almost every router that I've bought seems to be underdesigned w/r cooling and components get VERY hot. A number of them have fake ventilation "holes" that don't go through the case. I can't see why they even bother with making and using such complex (and much more expensive) moulding processes in the first place. I've seen devices in room temperature conditions where the original heatsinks are running over 200F when they are in active use, and the PCBs become locally discolored over time. Definitely not good for anything inside the cases, with early life component failures being the most common result, I expect (common with routers and LED lighting). Some devices don't even use thermal compound. DESIGNED TO FAIL for repeat sales??? *_I even bought one (China sourced) buck/boost converter/adapter that used a strip of ordinary wood pulp paper as an electrical insulator instead of the commonly used plastic thermally conductive insulator (TCI) between the MOSFETs and their heatsinks_* A failure just waiting to happen.
I think it goes hand in hand with expected design life. Where as I design for the longest life, use overly cautious aproaches to things like heat management, trace widths and component ratings, most consumer stuff takes a more "minimilist" approach.
"Someone has been here before" (05:05) That can easily happen during the process of manufacturing of the PCB. It can be a problem with the initial part sourcing, or even the cleaning process after populating the board (a similar thing with missing parts), and so on. Sometimes an entire part (like a capacitor) can be knocked off the board by careless handling. Such things happen when a board is manually "reworked" by a person during manufacturing for (as an example) poor automated soldering result or component misplacement on another part, which happens fairly easily with surface mount devices. Boards are also sometimes damaged when a person on the line is manually re-testing it after having reworked the originally automatically detected failure. The extra handling increases the chance of causing such damage. edit to add: Many businesses have permanent "rework" teams on or near the the manufacturing line whose only job is to manually fix errors found on automatically assembled PCBs. The degree of training such people receive does vary by company, but they usually require the workers attend and pass classes regarding ESD mediation, physical handling of boards and components, and part removal and soldering techniques before they are allowed on these teams. Cheaper manufacturers may skimp a bit on these classes as they can require weeks of training.
I'm aware of this and know where to look for it. But thank you
Hello, can I use your video for a music video of the same song made using a sega genesis? I will fully credit you and link your channel.
if you contact me via the link on my profle I'll see what we can do. If you have a device to use as a serial display such as the Wyse terminal used here I can possibly send you the Arduino code.