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The one in the video is sold bye Cascade German.

@@diorranyleite1913 I don’t know. We didn’t get the Amarok in my country. If it uses the same cp4 as the Cjaa engine then my guess would be yes.

@@davidsmithers3353 I’m not sure where you’re getting $500 from. The price on the kit was $320. We’ve since sold the design to Cascade German. I believe they are selling them for $375 now due to increased cost on materials lately.

@@IsaacFisher-vj6kc Ckra + $130

Must be nice now they’re going for $900

@@hgas9631 flashing back to stock would not have resolved the metal shavings in the fuel system caused by a bad cp4 pump. Stock tune or not the fuel system was bad when the car was brought to us. It was only after fixing the fuel system we were able to figure out the find the issue in the tune. We did not tune this car originally and the tune that was on it was one that is very popular and we’ve only recently been seeing issues with on this platform. The car in the video being the first.

@@IsaacFisher-vj6kc I understand what you’re saying and that very well could be true, but obviously we didn’t see the metal you speak of. Is it a small amount of fine material that’s “normal” to see or something significant? The fact is the fuel system was overhauled and same issue persisted, so had the car been flashed to stock before replacing these parts would the issue have disappeared. Obviously well never know All that money on the fuel system only to have the same issue vs being given options such as: let’s start with flashing the car back to stock and go from there. We did see metal contamination so we may have to go further but flashing back to stock will cost nothing In comparison to overhauling the fuel system.

@@hgas9631 we definitely saw enough contamination to justify replacing the fuel pump. Which is why we went down that road first.

If you put the stock file back on does the issue go away?

@@IsaacFisher-vj6kc I just flashed the car back to stock with deletes and the car runs perfect now. NO LIMP MODE at all. The stage 2 tune was bad.

@@dustinwillis7528 I hate to say this but we see that a lot with Malone tunes these days.

If you go to our Facebook page you can see our before and after results on a 335d. The car in this video is going to the dyno this week.

@@IsaacFisher-vj6kcwhat are the dyno results?

@@IsaacFisher-vj6kcdid you redyno with them installed

What tune are you using. We’ve found that Malone/ tunezilla and diesel dna tunes will throw that code.

@IsaacFisher-vj6kc Kermatdi, but I was getting this code prior to the tune. I searched out a tune, thinking it would correct the issue I'm having. I'm not sure, but I think the metering valve may be faulty.

I’m having the same exact issue, with a Stevenson Tune and an MRTuning Tune. Replaced the metering valve and every other sensor in the fuel system. Can’t figure this one out

@@IamMonsterMan Did you drive yours with the stock tune? Mine seemingly idles fine and short test drives up and down the street but when I drove about 2 miles the connection between the return line to the injectors and the hard line to the cp3 pushed itself off the barbed connection and started spraying fuel across the car. I feel like I'm missing one small thing and keep going back through the steps and trying to narrow this down.

Wish the video showed exactly how he installed the CP3 So folks could be more certain of what they are doing.

It takes about 5 seconds to google that instead of wasting time asking strangers on yt

We already got before numbers of this car. We just didn’t take a video. We will do one getting the after numbers and comparing them.

@@IsaacFisher-vj6kc thanks for the quick response, can't wait!

once every lifetime

About 1 million miles I guess? Maybe sooner if you ignore a bad injector for long enough.

Looks like full kit. More info on cascade German

47 nm seems pretty light for an M14 nut. Most applications in VW's catalog I can find say 60 nm for a nut that size. The original CP4, which is a much larger M18 nut, calls for 95 nm. We've seen a couple of the updated sprockets loosen up and start wobbling at only 47 nm.

​​@@dzelpwr I torqued mine to the spec listed above and it did indeed come loose. I will definitely be torquing it down to a spec closer to your recommendation. Did the wobbly updated sprockets do any damage to the shafts of the pump?

@@druiendowns2 on account of the aluminum being substantially softer than the steel on the shaft, I would say the only damage likely taken would be on the sprocket itself. The pump should be just fine.

I should also convert for us Yanks: 47 nm = 35 ft lbs 60 nm = 44 ft lbs 95 nm = 66 ft lbs If you have the old style hub adapter and are using your original outer sprocket with the M8 bolts to hold it on, those bolts should be torqued to 20 nm/15 ft-lbs.

We are still developing that. We hope to see it available in the next few weeks.

We’ve been developing this for a long time now. Our first test car has had its intake on for 3 years now with no sings of compromises. We use engineering grade abs carbon fiber composite for all our intakes. We also put a lot of time and effort into engineering to provide the best torque curve possible and an 11% increase in power. Because of the interior design 3D printing was the only affordable way we could produce this intake. Dyno graphs are posted on our website as well as Cascade German’s. If you have anymore questions please feel free to reach out.

@@IsaacFisher-vj6kc took me an hour to make it myself in fusion360. You suck stop selling garbage

Developing😂 11% increase 😂😂 without remap it worth nothing . And what happens in heavy rain it sucks water ?? Because as i see its under the grill qithout any protection.

It comes with the filter the intake and the silicone coupler. If you have question about it with your setup feel free to dm us on Facebook.

Was gunna order it Then saw the $ Reconsidered…

@@beradycavs same here I just build my own from eBay 👌🏽 a lot cheaper

I managed to get the factory installed fuel line removed after some forceful persuasion, but mangled up in the process. I was able to secure another fitting from Amazon to replace it. I'm not sure what the deal was with my pump , but it seemed like everything was way to tight from the factory. Had to hit the t50 torx plug and bottom fuel fitting with an impact driver just to get it loosened up. Might be easier to do so once it's mounted in the vehicle so you don't have to fight holding it still as you're trying to break them free. Either that or hold the pump in a vice. And I agree with another poster, spring clips for the fuel lines should be included, along with an actual instruction sheet with the kit, detailing torque specs for the pump to adapter bolts, torque specs for pump to engine bolts, fuel line fitting torque specs, and shaft nut torque spec. And I recommend applying loctite to all the fasteners. And there's no real good way to tighten the shaft nut without the spindle turning. I ended up tapping the adapter on with a mallet, threading in the old bolts into the adapter, and zipping the nut with a 1/4" impact driver while trying to hold the shaft in place. Hopefully it is locked down tight enough that it can't back off. But a full install video for us diy'er guys would be super useful. Bending the fuel line was tedious and took some time to perfect. Heating it up with a map torch made bending it a little easier. Hopefully no leaks. Haven't had the chance to prime the pump yet as I'm still wrapping up the timing belt install, so fingers crossed, but nothing's touching so we should be good there

All those things are in the works. We hope to have a custom fuel like for the kits very soon.

@@IsaacFisher-vj6kc also, the original pump gear that bolts onto the hub adapter has a slightly larger inner diameter than your hub that I received. So, I'm going to have to shim it, 360°, to keep it running concentric to the shaft. The hub adapter should be slightly larger in diameter. I'll get measurements tomorrow to figure up total amount of slack I need to take up. But it's probably, close to 3-4 thousandths, or 1/16th of an inch, maybe a little more.

On some of the earlier kits the hub adapter was .5mm smaller then it should have been. I have a shim available if you want one. Most people don’t use one as the 3 bolts center the hub and bore most of the pressure on the original setup. The shim I have is a tpu band that goes around the new hub almost like a dampener.

@@IsaacFisher-vj6kc yes I would like one, or preferably, a properly sized hub. I'm not sure how the bolts would center the sprocket on the hub as they also have play inside the slots they go into. I can have all three bolts in the sprocket holding it onto the hub, without any front and back(or in and out, however you look at it)movement, and the sprocket can move completely off center, up and down, side to side, unless I just get extremely lucky with alignment during install. Without the proper size hub or a shim, it definitely would not be concentric and I foresee that could cause issues down the road such as vibrations, irregular belt wear because the belt would get tighter and looser depending on where the sprocket was at during that moment due to it's off center axis, and possibly other issues.

Currently available at cascade German www.cascadegerman.com/product/fisher-motorworks-e70-bmw-x5d-cold-air-intake/

What ABS-CF material are you using? Most ABS-CF filaments I looked up don't have a heat deflection temperature above what you'd expect to see during summer under hood temps.

It’s the composite I’ve actually had the best results with on these intakes. They hold up really well and flow nicely. I recently switched to this and recently changed software and the result have been great. You won’t have any issues with heat for this part.

What do yog mean change software ?

This is a fisher motor works original. We are currently working on one for the f15 x5 also.

These are currently available on cascade Germans website. www.cascadegerman.com/product/vw-bmw-cp3-conversion-kit-cbea-cjaa-ckra/

Unfortunately due to rising costs all around the price is $399

What cp3 pump did you get? Best way to find one?

This one in the video is sold bye cascade German and is a reputable company.

Currently available at cascade German www.cascadegerman.com/product/fisher-motorworks-e70-bmw-x5d-cold-air-intake/

Any plans on developing a kit for the CVCA engines or will this kit work for them as well? I believe that part number 04L903143B for the bracket that fuel pump mounts to is the same for several years, just not sure if the kit would work the same for it. My car is a 2015 VW Jetta TDI engine code CVCA