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You are correct. We attempted to clarify this in the description, but I'm not sure anyone reads the description on TH-cam Shorts. Step 1: Open a window (so you don't get locked out) Step 2: Make sure key is out of the ignition (in your pocket) Step 3: Disconnect the Negative terminal Step 4: Disconnect the Positive terminal on your battery Step 5: When reconnecting battery, reconnect positive terminal first Step 6: Lastly, reconnect the negative terminal.

@@kwikperformanceI knew what you meant just found it funny. Anyway I would probably take what you replied and make it a pinned comment if possible because not everyone reads the description for YT shorts and some may not even know about it.

Give us a call and we can give you a quote. We are very competitive on price. 417-955-1467. 8-5 M-F CST

Hello, give us a call at 417-955-1467. We can get you the measurements you need.

What motor mounts are you running? What balancer spacing?

Thank you for your very technical response! From the internet: "Latent heat - Energy Education The latent heat of vaporization is the thermal energy required for a liquid to vaporize to a gas or the amount that is released when a gas condenses to a liquid. The latent heat of vaporization is also referred to as the enthalpy of vaporization."

This is a very good question. What vehicle are you working on? Which compressor do you have, I assume you have the Sanden Mini SD7B10 7176? The instructions you are referencing, did they come with the evaporator/condenser? If you are retrofitting a Sanden compressor into a GM system with all new parts, yes add oil to get the recommended amount. Also verify the oil being specified for the GM system. If are installing it as a part of a new Vintage Air system, then no, they do not recommend adding more oil. I am not sure if that is because the other components come with oil in them as well. I am going to reach out and reverify based on your question.

@@kwikperformance its for an 89GMC g2500 and is the OE new compressor replacement

In this case, going with the instructions recommended 7-10 oz is what I would do. What I am not sure of is if the evaporator and condenser should have oil poured into them or if it is ok to pour the extra oil in the compressor. Are you having the system charged at a local shop or are you doing it yourself?

@@kwikperformance the compressor says that it has 3 oz of oil but at the same time it says that it needs oil added and im having it charged at the shop I work at

I did some poking around on the internet. Lots of opinions. There were several guys advocating for adding the extra oil into the condenser and evaporator. This is one of those procedural questions I do not have an answer to. The best bet is to take the advice of the AC shop doing the work.

Hello, the normal way is to take the crank pulley off the donor small block (along with the water pump pulley and accessory brackets). The small block crank pulley will then be attached to the big block harmonic balancer using one of our adapters. If your BBC is a 1966-93, you would use crank pulley adapter K10259. If your BBC is a 1994-2000, you would use crank pulley adapter K10540. The spacing is identical to BBC serpentines out of the 1990s, so a GM factory 454 serpentine crank pulley works as well.

@@kwikperformance it is a first gen tbi it came out of a 88 squarebody I do have everything from the 350 that's what the 454 is replacing seems like with your kit I can just bolt everything up I just need to reuse water pump and crank pulley along with harmonic balancer

You are in the crossover years for both of these things. Are the brackets on the 350 aluminum or steel? The steel brackets will not work with our conversion brackets (without cutting and welding). The Big Block harmonic balancer can be reused, but inspect the rubber for dry rot. If the 454 was an all serpentine system, which some were but most were not in 1988, you can reuse the crank pulley. You will need a new water pump so that it is big block spacing and reverse rotation. This is Gates part# 44030. Give us a call at 417-955-1467 and we will make sure you get what you need.

The Sanden Mini is my favorite compressor. Limited capacity for a Suburban or Wagon, but works great for everything else.

Hello, if you have a 1993 5.7 with the R4 compressor and want to upgrade to an Sanden compressor, this bracket does that. You keep all your original serpentine system. This bracket goes in place of the R4 compressor to allow you to mount a Sanden Mini compressor in it's place. Give us a call at 417-955-1467 and we can answer any further questions you have.

@@kwikperformance Thanks so much for your quick response.

Hello, we are in the process of updating these kits to come with a high pressure switch. Some R4 compressors come with a high pressure switch at the AC manifold block. Give us a call at 417-955-1467 and we should be able to get you the right set up.

One hundred thousand US dollars

That is a family heirloom from Powell Implement Co. in Stockton MO. The sign is from 1936 when they became an Allis Chalmers dealer.

People in this hobby do enjoy being different. One place I do see an opportunity is if the vehicle you are swapping the LS into has a good working carbureted fuel system. Having the option to keep that system may be desirable and more cost effective.

Does this eliminate the need for let’s say an msd ignition box?

@@vern0312 still need something to do the job of firing the coils and injectors. The setup we are running on this engine is from Daytona Sensors.

We can help! Send us your contact information to info@kwikperf.com or call us at 417-955-1467 and we will work with you to get ac lines on your C10!

Thanks for the input. We will pass your belt length info along to the engineering team. Glad you like the Sanden Mini!

We strive to be educational and semi-entertaining.

Now you know! Tell your friends! What is your project vehicle?

Thanks!

Hello and thanks for reaching out. Please contact us at 417-955-1467 and we can talk with you about your project.

Did you ever figure this out? Will it not work with the 5 inch? Did you try?

We are curious to know more about this question is about as well. Our bracket works with the R4 compressor that came on '88-'95 Chevy trucks. Nowhere in our literature do we reference the pulley size. @user-nu1ml9re2e are you using a Kwik Performance bracket or is it from a different manufacturer? The best way to get ahold of tech support is emailing info@kwikperf.com or calling 417-955-1467

Thanks for reaching out. You can email us at info@kwikperf.com or call us at 417-955-1467.

I’m in the same boat!

We have AC line made up and ready to go. Give us a call.

Thanks 👍

Thanks for your interest. You can call our main line and speak to Wayne or David, 417-955-1467. Or you can go directly to our website, www.kwikperf.com/k10472.html

Same for me, got a dayco poly belt and helped some. My belt also jumped over the front of the compressor. Got the ict billet bracket and problem solved.

Sameeeeee been chasing it for months! Probably switch brands

@@Jay-wn6uf To make the whole thing really sting, I had ordered the kit directly through vintage air, paid MSRP and got boned on shipping to the tune of $150 and had to have a second condenser sent because someone clearly stepped on the box. All because I was concerned that I would end up with the wrong bracket kit or compressor if I ordered through summit or jegs. The truck is my driver and the defrost function of the vintage air kit fukking suuuuucked below 35 degrees in the winter. I ran it for two summers and swapped my stock heater back in before the next winter. I found a company who used to offer a similar setup to the dealer installed add-on AC kits, but apparently the company who was supplying the evaporator assemblies closed up shop during the Plandemic. Still haven’t bothered to put ac back in even though I have all the OEM stuff…