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Glad I could help!

My only regret is I wish I would have bought the XL.

I don't have a spare for my trailer or my bike. I have a plug kit and compressor. But I know a lot of people who mount a spare underneath the trailer using a U-bolt.

You're welcome. If I had it to do again I would get the XL. I was worried if my old bike, 1100 V-Star would pull it alright. But I pulled this trailer thousands of miles over the Rockies and elsewhere with no problems.

I really like my 4P. It's a shame Nemo discontinued the Wagontop line.

I used Mid USA after market tensioners. But I couldn't find any available when I put links in the description.

@@briandavis8977 I would plan on changing them out at 30k. That’ll buy you another 30k. Or if you have the funds upgrade to hydraulics. I’ll probably upgrade in another 30k. Watch for my video in two years! lol

@@SteveOutdoors Maybe I will do the hydro upgrade and be done with it.

I was on a budget. This'll give me 30K-35K miles to save up for hydraulics upgrade.

@@SteveOutdoors I understand. I spent about 3/4 value of bike on part's! LOL

Absolutely

It was definitely harder than an oil change.

I hope this video helps you.

Isn't 33.3lbs what I came up with? Not sure of your point.

@@guswidener2854 🤣

The problem with a USB fan is it's not going to be very powerful. You're looking at 5V vs 110V. You can get a power inverter for you car to charge it.

Glad you liked it! That reminds me I need to make some more.

@@loganrossignol yes, I really don’t understand why they discontinued it. I still love using mine.

@@RafaelGuerreroThe4th I couldn’t tell you. I did this video two years ago so far it’s still working. But when I’m camping on my motorcycle, I usually take my Dewalt fan because it’s more portable.

You obviously don't live in Texas. Mr Toughguy.

@@SteveOutdoors Nooooooo I'm a French Canadian cummy.

i too work 57 hours a day at the ball crushing factory

You much have a really light trailer.

@@SteveOutdoors I have had pretty light trailers, and some God awfully heavy ones. Well... I guess not by the standards of some of the rigs I've seen being pulled these days. But, my 2nd trailer was home made, about 3 feet by 6 by 2.5 feet deep. I had two mountain bikes mounted to the sides and if it fit, it went inside. If it didn't fit, it got strapped on top. I'm just guessing that at it's heaviest the entire rig maxed out at about 500 Lbs. I did a LOT of load testing with that rig and the results were dead simple... 20 Lbs of hitch weight and it towed like it was on rails. Now, if I had a trailer with half the tongue length I'd up that to 30 Lbs. Under no circumstances would I ever put more than 30 on the hitch though, with any size or weight of trailer. I mean if it had to be then so be it, but I'd never pack for that goal. And, it didn't matter if I had a 80/20 weight distribution on the wheels or 50/50. Once it was inside, the only thing that mattered was hitch weight.

​@@DarrylBraun We'll have agree to disagree on this one. I never let my tongue weight get less than 10% of my trailer weight. I did once and as soon as I hit 50 mph I got a massive wobble back and fourth. I rearranged heavier items from behind the axle to in front of the axle, which in turn raised the tongue weight above 10% and it pulled like a dream.

@@DarrylBraun This video gives a good example of what happens when the front is too light. th-cam.com/video/6mW_gzdh6to/w-d-xo.htmlsi=tPnYW_qnQfE-dH3j

@@SteveOutdoors The problem with that video is they created a binary; it's either tongue heavy or bumper heavy. What they should also have done was moved that red weight half way between the hitch and the axel. The trailer would have behaved worse than the tongue heavy situation but the oscillations would still have dampened out. I mean, theoretically, even a zero tongue weight would dampen the oscillations just on the effect of rolling resistance wanting to keep the trailer behind the vehicle. In your situation I'm going to boldly suggest that either you misread it or there was something else at play. The onset of trailer fishtailing isn't speed related; something has to act on the trailer to get it to develop, a pothole, gust of wind or the action of the tow vehicle. Speed itself won't do it, period. When we were building our first trailer, back in the 80s, we'd heard that 60/40 was the rule. 60% of the trailer should be in front of the axel. Here's what we discovered: 60/40 was fine because it let you pack relatively mindlessly. You could be a LOT less careful about how you packed because you started out tongue heavy, even empty. 50/50 was just fine too, you just had to make more of an effort to pack heavy to the front. 40/60 was also just fine... as long as you made sure to pack front heavy. So, 60/40 wasn't actually related to axel placement, it was related to weight distribution; 60% of the weight should be in front of the axel. So we built our first trailer at 50/50 with respect to the actual cargo box and the next tailer to the 60/40 rule. At 50/50 the axel was still about 60/40 with respect to the hitch so if we put a cooler on the tongue, we were good to go. With the 2nd trailer built to 60/40 with respect to the cargo box we found that that meant packing carefully so as to not have too heavy a tongue weight. The problem was in corners. Straight and upright, pulled like a dream. But too much weight (and we're talking like 100 Lbs for example) and that weight was still acting straight downward even though the bike was now leaning at a 30 degree angle in a turn. I wouldn't call it dangerous, but it was certainly... uncomfortable having your bike pulled down into the lean. What we found was 20 Lbs was the magic number. More than 20 put more weight on the suspension of the bike and less than 20 simply took too long to dampen oscillations. As long as we were hitch positive the trailer would naturally dampen oscillations but the lighter you got, the longer it took. Only when we went hitch negative did the oscillations continue or increase and THAT'S the death wobble of trailers. Anything positive was good and anything over 20 was unnecessary. Now, to be fair and honest, I don't actually weigh my tongue at all. I just pick it up and if it feels right I hook'er up. So maybe I'm over the 20 Lb magic number. I have 2 trailers currently and the next time I load them up, I'll weigh them just to see. Interesting that my smaller trailer maxes out, I'm guessing again, at 250 Lbs, so I'm pretty close to the 10% rule. But the large one maxes out at around 350, maybe even 400 Lbs and there's no way I'd ever put 40 Lbs on the hitch. Maybe 30, I don't think so, but maybe and that's not far off the 10% rule if I'm not maxed out on total weight. I guess 10% is a pretty good rule of thumb since you're pretty unlikely to pull more than 500 Lbs, maybe 600. So 60 on the hitch wouldn't be a deal breaker, but it's just not required when 20 will get the job done just as well. Boy, this got long winded.