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Not sure who "his vets" are, but I don't think it was Dr. Hurley's. You are right to be cautious of flea meds - I had a horrible experience with a foster once. I use the natural cedar and lemongrass from Cedarcide.

Love you too! <3

Thank you for watching!

Be sure to follow the steps and don't rush the cats. It's very important to go at the cats' pace.

Love it!

Good question! Cats will tolerate the presence of others if there is a reliable food source. I don't say they CAN'T live together - they obviously do, but it is not their nature. They don't have the signals/cues/body language to communicate with one another like other, social/pack species naturally do. There are some observations being logged that tolerating living with other cats, is beginning to show in their evolutionary behaviors.

Handing kittens to UPS drivers! Omg! Love this! I do miss fostering!

@@margarethcastle6097 they were so much fun! And a bunch of naughty boys they were!

So glad you found the information useful. I have another webinar that is specifically about bonding with stressed cats: th-cam.com/video/iO_EfooH8_M/w-d-xo.htmlsi=NWOqwJr9hlStfEBN

Please watch the video and make notes of the steps - it's important to swap spaces and feed within view of the barrier door. Keep the door covered until there are no longer any defensive/aggressive reactions when they see one another. You could also have some unrecognition aggression if two go out but the other doesn't - because they come back no longer smelling like the home and are perceived as territory invaders. Feel free to email me molly@catbehaviorsolutions.org

Yes, they are. Churu is very common here in the U.S. but I have found Lick 'n' Lap to be more appreciated by cats! Both are good - anything the cat will go out of their comfort zone for, is what you're looking for. Thank you for watching!

One possibility is you haven't found a high enough value treat. Try Lick 'n Lap - works 98% of the time. It has to be something "worth" breaking the stare.

Unfortunately I speak from Italy. We still don't have a wide selection of treats here. Local stores started selling those kind of tubes only few weeks ago and they are all tuna based. And Milo hates tuna. I will try on the zooplus site. They sell pudding that he can't resist. Thank you so much for the reply. I was so frustrated I didn't think about it! 🙏

@@francescoiadicicco1266 also deli turkey (low sodium and no spices) is good, also single chicken ingredient baby food.

This is the issue I’m having! No distraction from the evil invader. It took me forever to actually find a treat my resident cat would even eat! Freeze dried raw chicken hearts. That’s literally the ONLY treat. I’ve tried so many treats it’s ridiculous…but my dogs are very happy with the rejects. Sadly, those hearts aren’t good enough right now. I don’t know what to do.

@@Sunshine_craycray it sounds like you might need to take a step back; less view of the new cat; go slower. Feel free to email me where you are in the process and exactly what each cat is doing. I'm happy to help! molly@catbehaviorsolutions.org

Take a step back - harness the reactive 9 month old so she can't swat at her but still have freedom to roam around and chase her. Eventually she will be less fearful of the new kitten. You'll know when that is when the tail no longer bushes out. Good luck! I'm sure they'll be best of friends in no time! And remember, even when they are fully integrated, they will continue to rough play - here is a good podcast to listen to to help you know if they are playing or fighting: www.catbehaviorsolutions.org/podcast/episode/465ef86f/playing-or-fighting

@@CatBehaviorSolutions thank you!

It absolutely works if you follow the steps and have patience. Thank you for taking another one in!

Wow, I didn't have this experience at all - I use mine frequently with both fosters and my own cat.

I didn't have a second cat who wanted to eat Pico's food to test it with. You don't want the feeder to close too quickly for cat safety reasons, but I understand the challenge you're facing.

@@CatBehaviorSolutions Okay, thank you for taking your time to answer :)

It's normal for cats to "prey" play with each other. That's what they do as kittens to learn how to hunt - they stalk, chase, pounce. Just watch close that the tiny kittens don't get hurt by overzealous bigger ones.

So much info I don't know - challenging for me to comment intelligently. It's important you go slow enough that hissing and charging doesn't happen. If it's been going on a while, you'll have to drop back and go slower. But a sheet over the screen door - feed them on either side. After about a week of that, tack up the sheet about an inch. If either hisses, put it back down and do more feeding/treating/playing on both sides of the door. Raise the sheet in very small increments only if no hissing or charging from either. This will take a while now that it's gotten out of hand. Good luck - I hope you don't have to rehome her.

I am in the same boat, my newcomer is somehow aggressive towards my 4 year old and now he is become aggressive, no progress at all. Will try more, hope something will change.

@@victoriagy3845nothing has changed for me. I’ve tried everything. Diffusers feliway garbage waste of money. Slow introduction for a year now, treats, calming music and calming treats, screens doors everywhere, scent swapping, spray cat hormones etc. They said put a screen and a sheet over it and raise it little by little. lol they lift it up and go under to fight. I live in prison in my own house. One of them has to be locked up, while the other one roams around and vice versa. I feel like all this recommendations are for people that are rich and don’t work, have mansions and have 10 extra rooms in their house, and have cats that they can program to react in the perfect manner to every approach. Good luck I really wish your cats can get along soon.

Good timing! We are having a free webinar on Zoom on Saturday, June 8th at 10am MST, 11am CST, Noon EST - Here is a link to the event on Facebook: facebook.com/share/BbULGwfSZuZpGyFB/ and if you email me at molly@catbehaviorsolutions.org I'll email you the zoom link directly.

@@CatBehaviorSolutions Thank you Molly! 🙏

Through positive reinforcement, or clicker training, teach your staring cat "look" (to look at you on the cue "look"). This way you can break the stare - I think I cover this in the webinar.

Ideally it's meals because that produces a prolonged time at the barrier door - more time to acclimate and counter condition. Can you try moving their bowls from where they will eat, just a couple inches a day closer to the door?

Did you watch this webinar? In the beginning, I explain the hurdles to cat introductions...they are highly territorial creatures, thus it must be done slow and methodically. One week isn't nearly enough time. I suggest you make the time to watch this webinar fully and follow the steps to success. Best of luck and thank you for providing a home to cats!

This is my situation exactly, right down to the sexes and ages except resident kitty is not an outdoor cat so now she hides under my bed. We are now 3 weeks in, still separated by a door and swapping them out throughout the day, but my 6 year old momma kitty still runs and hides the second she knows I’m putting the kitten in the mesh carrier to check her out. I never let them roam freely in the same room together. Kitten is always in a carrier and my resident momma kitty is still so aggressive and then runs and hides under my bed. I know it’s only been 3 weeks, and I’m prepared to go the long haul with this but I am very afraid my resident kitty may hurt the baby.

@@KJ_88 I'm so sorry 😢 I hope the situation improves for you. I know how stressful and heartbreaking it is. We've made a little progress over here, my cat is comfortable hanging out with the kitten if we're all outside. She still wasn't coming in ever and I felt terrible but I realized if I leave the door open then she'll come in and hang out for a little. But I still don't know if she'll ever accept her, I just want them to play together and be friends so badly. But the slow progress is still giving me hope. Maybe you could try getting a gate to put in the door instead of bringing the kitten in the room. That way your cat can have time to get used to her being there safely without the kitten getting too close. She might still hide at first and then realize after a bit that the kitten can't get it and come out and be comfortable being out in the open. If she could be out comfortably while seeing and smelling the kitten on the other side of the gate that would be some good first progress. I hope it works out 🙏💜

RIP

I'd say a few seconds - it wasn't quick enough to make me feel like it might close on him, but at the same time, fast enough to keep another cat from moving in. Also if the microchip tagged cat removes his head and another moves in, it will close to keep him out.

I counted 4 seconds. My chonker is too fast for this product. The Sureflap feeder closes faster so I think we need to return the MiBowl, unfortunately.

@@kristenjunker1632 I'm sorry it didn't work out for you. I encourage you to contact Closer Pets.

Not yet but that's a good idea!

Thank you for tuning in!

Thank you!