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Got one myself

Great info

I have a slow start sbc this didn't fix it.

Lol just saw your car in fort Smith and looked up your yt name

I've found AT-205 reseal is superior to anything else

If you are doing valve guides on a valve job mixing the valves in a non problem. Lifters on the other hand must go back on the cam lobe it is worn to.

Hello. What kept the steering shaft from sliding up and down the column while you worked it on a bench? I am rebuilding a 82’ that is still attached in the truck but the shaft slides up/down about an inch making it where I don’t need compression tool when installing the plate and ring. Any help/ advice would be greatly appreciated!!

I had to do that on my 63 Ford.

You could label the other head with 5,5 6,6 so you could do both at the same time.

I always considered myself a decent mechanic. I appreciate videos like yours that can make us better. Ty

How to extend current fan shroud

Not exactly true. Grease or lithium will hold the valve in place even with worn guides. Especially will be inaccurate in the cold

Sbc all day, too many aftermarket parts to be had for cheap

Good Video! Putting 71 Monte Carlo Steering Assembly together basically the SAME..

Thank you kindly🙏

Where did you buy the pig tail ( red wire connector)?

Can you use a flux welder ?

You probably did it but forgot to mention oiling the front seal before installing the balancer.

That doesn't prove nothen lmao

Think it's going to run good

I was watching your video on taking the column apart. got to the part of taking the key mechanism out and then the gear on the inside. trying to slide theupper column off and it seems to be getting hung up on the steering lock. (it is a 1089 k 2500 4x4 manual trans). what am i doing wrong?

All my stuff is old too🙁. Thanks for posting this! I have a power steering leak on my 2005 Dodge diesel and I have to remove the fender liner to just check the fluid level but it will be worth the trouble. No repair is easy on a Dodge diesel!

LS can run a carb just like the sbc.....intake 250.00........msd coil control 500.00... Bang for buck , the carbed ls will make more power in an easier to drive package . The valve angles are more efficient , so you can run a milder cam and make more power . Here is my experience and it really opened my eyes on ls potential . I have 2 cars , a 68.camaro and a 72 camaro. The 68 was built to run hard and go low 11s . The 72 was built to be an all around cruiser , but with good power. The 68 had a built 406, 220cc aftermarket heads, 11.4 comp, big solid cam , etc . At 2900lbs , it ran 11.30 at 120 . The 72 had an ls3 w a simple conversion to carb like I described above , a set of headers, and a very streetable , small cam . At 3400lbs the 72 ran 11.60 and 120mph . The 68.was setup for hooking at the track w 4.10 gears and had no accessories on the engine. The 72 had ac and ps w 3.42 gears and was designed to be a multipurpose car. With limited traction , the 72 ran within 3/10ths of the 68 that hooked solid. The ls setup was a mild street build and the 68 was set up for the 1/4mile. The 72 was 400 lbs heavier and anyone could get in it and drive it like a new car . The ls costs about the same if you build a gen 1 to make power and carb a performance ls engine w a street cam. The ls makes power very easily and in a much milder package, will run with the sbc that is difficult to street drive by your average person . I like both, but the potential of the carbed ls is hard to.ignore . Just because the ls comes w an ecu and plastic intake doesn't mean it needs that to outperform a similar carbed sbc.

I miss uncle bucks advice, did you ever think of making life and wisdom tips? You have had plenty of rides around the sun. Love you brother you saved me

Brother, I just can't wrap my head around why you're doing this. I'm pretty sure you can't bypass the solenoid on those type starters because that's what pushes the starter gear to the flywheel. If you have a heat soak problem you should wrap the headers with a quality wrap and install a small heatshield in the target area. Also, they sell quality starter wraps at just about any auto parts store. It could also be a combination of things that slow down your starter, loose connections, corroded wires, or even a weak battery. But if you're running a wire from the cool solenoid to the hot one, smh, I suppose it would work..... hmm

Thats not a tip. It's bullshit. We use grease to keep parts stuck together all day when we assemble them as well as push out pilot bearings. Not kind of shade tree full blown 300 year old live oak.

How they gonna know? They’ll never know! 😂

Sweet tip

Nice!

Daaaamn right that's how it is lol

I rather have the sbc . If I was going to swap a motor. I am going and find a doner car/ truck with a big block and a trans. Hell I have a 95 4x4 that I thinking of doing a 350 and th350 swap on.

Thanks my Man, wish I had an Uncle Buck growing up, but hey, I have your videos now lol! Thanks for the help!

Anti-sieze those bolt threads before assembling.

see if you can open up the pushrod pinch next that is the biggest flow restriction

And if I'm not mistaken, the LS requires engine management non-sense, but not so with a SBC! Bolt it in, let it rip. No shortage of parts during pandemics either. My little smart car died during the pandemic, good luck getting parts. My 42 year old Chevy C30 with a 350 SBC cranked right up and away I went.

I have a quick question... When putting the beginning part of rear driveshaft... Where do u put lube, on outside or inside and is there A specific way or position too feed it in?

I appreciate the video im 21 slowly upgrading my 86 el camino good to have an idea of what to upgrade first. Learning a lot on the way with my friends, youtube sure does help though.

Be aware early sbc engines 265, 283, and early 327 don’t use a bolt to hold the harmonic balancer on. Those you have to hammer them on. They don’t have any threads on the crankshaft end.

Great info

6.59

Love the tips! Thankyou

You need to retitle your channel UNCLE HACK GARAGE! HAVE A GREAT WEEK! 😂

I hope you don’t need a fan because you won’t find one on that one

I like both. I favor the LS though because stock the internals can handle over 600 horsepower and you can hit over 400 horsepower with just a cam and tune that cost under $1,500 but what I love most is the ls can handle the thrashing . I would love to see somebody pull one of these old graveyard engines with 200,000 mi on them and throw some turbo at it and see if it holds up like the ls does. I come from a mud truck family and it's really hard to beat the thrashing of a 5.3 or 6.0 bouncing off the rev limiter day after day. We've never been that lucky with the older engines. If anything it's actually harder to find parts for these older engines now vs 20 years ago at least up in my area

good vid.

F / that I just cut a door in the truck bed to access the fuel pump.😂

Useless video, something about a horse is the reason behind chevy orange

Building a 1965 .030 over 327 now that's gonna make over 550hp with a pair of 50yr old GM cylinder heads and a single 4-barrel 830cfm carb. A huge solid roller & 13-1+ compression. Also using an intake from the late 70s. It'll turn 8500+rpm. BRC aluminum rods, BRC pistons and a Moldex/ Reath 4340 crank that weighs 42lbs. It's an old school racing engine from the 70s. Modified Production class build. Take one hell of a 5.3 LS to run with it NA.

Bigblock Chevy best. But the old SBC is still hard to beat when properly built. I have a few that will make ya a believer.

I am debating this now. Have core 350, and 5.3 sitting here. 5.3 would be carbed in my application... but the msd box is +/- $500. Headers, 400 for less expensive deals. Those are biggest hits, in my opinion. Cams are same $ either way. But 5.3 lifters are less $. AFR heads a +/- 1000 everywhere. A sbc victor jr is over 400 now. In the long run its almost a wash. Core sbcs are getting harder to find as well....