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Hugh Bug
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 7 ธ.ค. 2011
T4, Passat, Mk4 golf brake switch teardown and rebuild
VW and Audi brake switch as found in in older M4 Golf, Passat, Jetta and T4 transporter.
Commonly a replace only part, it is possible to open it up and clean to the internals to get it working asap. This video goes into the details of how the self calibration mechanism inside this component works.
Commonly a replace only part, it is possible to open it up and clean to the internals to get it working asap. This video goes into the details of how the self calibration mechanism inside this component works.
มุมมอง: 211
วีดีโอ
VW Ignition Barrel / Steering lock / Ignition switch failure explained. Don't make my mistake!
มุมมอง 102K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Mk6 golf, Jetta, sciroc, Tiguan Ignition Barrel explained. Watch to get an in depth understanding of how the hidden deadlock system inside this component works and how it may be your problem!
DCD771 C2 DeWalt Drill kill, 4 year review! How has it held up?
มุมมอง 2.9K2 ปีที่แล้ว
DCD771 C2 DeWalt Drill kill, 4 year review! How has it held up?
DeWalt DCF787 impact driver, 4 year review! What's broken and is it a good buy?
มุมมอง 16K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Quick one take review of the the DeWalt DCF787 Impact driver and how it compares to similar models. 4 years of use and it's still a great tool. Money well spent!
What is grease and how does it work (lubricant)
มุมมอง 11K6 ปีที่แล้ว
In this video I will talk about the uses, history and composition of modern greases. I will also touch on the sustainability aspects of grease going into the future.
Друг можно не высверливать. Я так сделал. Загнуть отвёртку, а другой подпереть сверху.
Has anyone upgraded the light assembly from 1 led to the triple led light ? On a 787 model
@Gollammeister I think it would be a challenge to complete. The LEDs are built into the plastic mould underneath with no space to install another 2. Time and effortwise.... Best to just buy a new driver hahah
YOUR ARE THE BEST.
Thank you! The only video that i found and explained the "dead lock" mechanism! Helped me unlock a brand new part that locked by itself after i put the key component. Big Thanks!
Happy to help. Have a good one
Is there any way to reduce the spring force when turning the key ? Mk7 Golf ? My dad's golf is pretty stiff and it's difficult for him with arthritis. It also broke the actual key holder eventually.
Sooo, I worked it out and man…what are you talking about? There is no „deadlock“ or something like that, what you describe as deadlock is the LOCK, and no you don’t have to cut the housing (how do you even activate the „deadlock“ aka lock while the housing was on it?
I still don’t get it… how can a screwsdriver force the security pin to activate when the key would do the same thing(spinning it)?
Wow the motor sounds so different than the brushless atomic dewalt i have. Cool.
Does contact cleaner into the motor clean out the lube from the bushes?
Technically, yes. I wouldn't go too crazy with the contact cleaner for that exact reason. Even in the case of roller bearings you should go too crazy with it The proper way to do this is to take the tool apart, clean everything and re lube parts as required.
thanks
I had sent my car in to the dealership for AC cooling coil/evaporator change and now the key refuses to turn to start position after ignition position. Able to start only if i take the key out, lock the steering. Then insert the key unlock the steeting and start. This takes multiple tries. What could be the reason?
Yea definitely sounds like the ignition barrel has an internal issue. I recommend you replace it sooner rather than later incase it stops working and leaves you stranded.
@@hughbugger Thanks for the quick response. Will changing only the ignition switch solve the problem or the entire mechanism needs to be changed ?
@drivewithvg9412 Not a problem. The switches don't fail frequently as they are a very basic electronic switch. The barrels (whole mechanism shown in the vid) have a big reputation for failing as there are lots of mechanical moving parts which wear put with use. Hard to make a conclusion but it sounds like you've got a mechanical issue in the barrel.
NO, DON'T CUT THE HOUSING,,,,,,,,,, you can grab the ignition switch tang and pull that will disengage the pin that locks it up.
th-cam.com/video/FN10KAlsR6o/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared
I think this might have happened to me, i installed a new barrel it worked for a week and then one day it wouldn't let me pull the key out. Ive tried clicking the barrel release button but it doesn't work. The key appears to be stuck in the 1 and 2 position
Hely friend i need you help when i take out the key from the ignition sometimes the radio stays on and the interior lights dont come on,next i just slide the key inside and take it out and the radio turn of and the interior lights turn on is that the ignition lock or something else
Have a look at the ignition starter switch. It's the part which attaches to the locking barrel. It's basically the electronic sensor which tells the car the location of the key.
😂😂😂too late for me
Late for me to need to buy another one😂😂
Hi, Is this safety pin causing key to not turn past ON position towards START position?
You would not believe i got the deadlock back without any drilling!!
Thanks for teaching me I had dead locked my new ignition barrel
👍👍👍👍
Cheers for the heads up! Just about to buy a replacement and the temptation is always to turn it for fun! Now I know 😂😅😅
I had buyed a new one and turned when un-installed....
I'm sorry for your loss. Easy mistake to make and blatantly stupid they don't have it labelled on the packaging.
Im still working on it.. I need some direction, i drill the little hole and now its ok but when i put the ignition on and turn it off and wont back on when ignition in??? Im gettin crazy
@@realcon5086 hmmm yea not sure what could be causing that without seeing it.
Hi, great job!! In my case, the key doesn’t even get into the slot. It seems it is blocked by the that security pin 😒
Hmm. This could be a failure in the key lock which is a separate part to the actual ignition barrel. Very hard to diagnose this one without seeing it in person.
@@hughbugger thanks for answering so quick! I’ll post here as soon as we know what the problem is. Cheers
@@chriscorkas Not a problem, happy to help. Good luck with getting it sorted
@@chriscorkashaving the same problem , i think the steering lock is blocking my key to even insert it . Have you figured out? Thanks
Hi, In my case I just replaced the whole housing, I used the old locking mechanism since it was working fine then I realized that the steering lock is always down inside the housing...any hint on this?? 😢 The key moves well from on to off and off to on but steering lock does not moves (stays inside) when I take the key off the housing....
The steering lock should stay engaged when the key is removed. The steering lock should dis engage when the ignition is turned on. If your steering lock is engaged the whole time that could mean your ignition barrel is faulty.
hello, thanks for this valuable video, could you send me your email or anything else so i can contact you, i have a question about greases and wanna send you some data sheets.
Thank you - I get my ignition Barrel again in function. Thank you for explaining the mecanism . Good luck for your life - thank you a lot Bye
Happy to help my friend. Best of luck also
They got a kit with 2 batteries at the depot for 99. Ive already got my 4th gen m12 milwaukee for home but thibking about grabbing the yellow guy for work since all the snap on impacts are WEAK
Thanks, now I can understand the workings of that security mechanism on the steering lock thanks to unfortunately your misfortune. I have just removed those components (plus the broken piece of the cast body that locked it all up origionally) and hope it will all work for a while longer. Great description and diagrams too.
Thanks, glad to hear the video helped out.
Sorry for your troubles. Thanks for sharing. My in-laws have a 2007 EOS that is currently stuck in a store parking lot 😬 The steering wheel is not locking, and the key does not turn past the first position which I'm guessing is "accessory". Radio comes on and windows move but that's it. Is it worth trying to drill out this safety pin before I buy a new part?
Btw when I say windows move, I don't mean the power switch works. The windows drop down a half inch so they can close without slamming against the weatherstripping. Thanks for any advice!
@@michaeltaylor3559 Hey, Sounds like the ignition barrel is definitely your issue. If its failed in that way, I suspect an internal part has probably broken off which inturn is stopping its usual operation. Due to it being such a critical part of the cars security I would replace the whole ignition barrel, sounds like it may be your only option now anyways. Try and take the unit out as per a normal replacement. You may not need to drill anything as it depends on how the part has failed internally. Regardless just remember not to cycle the new part prior to installing. Another safe bet is to just get it done at a local dealership. It should only be an hour's labor at most.
@@michaeltaylor3559 Interms of getting your car driving again; the only way to "hotwire" the car is to take out the ignition barrel. This means you have to go through the process of punching out the shear bolts which hold in the ignition barrel unit. This isn't really a carpark job. Definitely try get the car towed if your insurance will cover it.
@@michaeltaylor3559 Another thought is to jam around the steering wheel incase the steering wheel shaft is biting down onto the steering lock. This lock is part of the ignition barrel and if caught up it will stop the cars ignition cycling. Hopefully this is the case!
Excellent, thanks! I will try to tap gently on the mechanism exterior to free up the key to get the car home and go from there. I might consider just removing the broken bits inside and reassembling the part to save money but I'm concerned the steering lock may engage while driving.. although I'm not sure how that could happen 🤔 A new part might be cheap insurance. Thanks for a quick reply!
Hat off to you. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. This video save me from spending another $400 for the new keylock
Lol. 😂 Who ever watch this video. I know u F it up just like the rest of us.
Dude this is exactly why I made the video hahaha. We can all be in this boat together
Hi! Thank you for sharing your user experience with this tool! At 2:15 it's amazing how the trigger can control the rotation speed in 2nd gear.
Thanks for the review! My DCF787 shows "20v max" weird. Must be because it's newer or something. 2020 model. I used mine to bust 15/16 bolts off mower decks. Had to hammer on it for a good 20 seconds. Also busted a 32mm flywheel bolt with it. Got it as a chirstmas gift, came with drill, impact, two batteries and bag for $150 USD.
20v version is american
Yea as others have said US markets have slightly different stickers regarding the voltages. 787s are solid units though, glad to hear you've had good success with yours. Goes to show you don't have to get a massive 1/2" drive impact to get work done
@@hughbugger I'm a new owner of a DCF921.
I think it non US markets the nominal voltage is what is displayed on the tool. So 3.65v x 5 They show 20 volts in the US as fully charged the batteries hold 4 ISH volts.
Really good content. I've been searching the Internet for more information on the make up of greases. This hit the sweet spot for introducing the basic ingredients without overloading with information on specific ingredients and uses. Thank you for making this content. Now I won't be as confused when a greases says it has lithium soaps.
No worries, glad you could learn from this!
I got really caught up on the copper additive. You said it increases conductivity which is important in a dielectric. My understanding was dielectrics mainly serve to insulate. Could you elaborate a bit?
Hi, Copper additives are used to create a electrically conductive grease. This is used on actual contacts/connections. Dielectric is not strictly conductive although some do conduct slightly. Dielectric is commonly used in and around electronics mainly to protect the contacts/connections from moisture and other environmental factors. You wouldn't use thermally conductive grease for protection as you don't want electrically conductive grease squishing out all over the place!
Bonsoir c'est possible pour traduire en français s'il vous plaît parce que je comprends pas l'anglais
Four years, it looks new. i got one 20v a few days ago.
It had a very heavy degrease prior to the video :P The scratches fortunately also don't show up very well :P
Nice tutorial - thanks. Do you know if this applies to the Mk4 steering lock barrel? It is similar but a different part and design. I got my replacement one and the key barrel comes separately. To install it they both need to be on the first key turn position ("on", before the spring loaded "crank"). My steering lock is not in that position and I'm afraid to rotate it with a screwdriver in case this issue happens. Do I need to worry about this on a Mk4?
Not sure about the mk4 platform sorry, but I think your hesitation to not touch it is justified. Try to see if you can find a guide online or even better the OEM service procedure. Definitely try and clock the key barrel not the ignition barrel if possible!
So basically I'm fucked
Thank you for this review. So, what would be the charger for its battery and is it 220v?
Any DeWalt 18V or flexvolt battery and charger system will work with this tool. Dewalt stuff is very standardised internationally so any 220v or 110v charger will work for the batteries. Providing you have the correct one for your country. Thanks
@@hughbugger Hey thanks very much for the help. Been thinking of either getting the kit for this or buy the tool, battery and charger separately. All the best!
@@srgmag1971 I think you'll find the kits are normally the cheapest option. No worries
@@hughbugger I just bought the 787 kit, but with a 20V Max and not 18V XR. How is this compared to 18V XR? Sadly, the charger that comes along with it is 110, and we have 220 here. Good thing though I had one electrical outlet configured to 110V in the place where we're transferring. Have you tried the 20VMax and you think this might be as durable as your 18V? Thanks a lot for any help.
How do u remove key if it won't turn? Which part would be stopping key turn
If it's in deadlock you have to drill out the pin as discussed in the video. If it's not in deadlock a lot of shimmying it around and penetrating fluid would be worth a shot. The componentry stopping it spin will be inside the ignition barrel. At all costs do not damage the key (as in break the key). Or damage the lock mechanism. Both if these are bloody expensive to replace.
Hi. I have situation where key would not turn to ignition on. So cannot line up dots to remove the key receiving part. Upon removal, the steering lock was stuck down. Now free to move up and down. If I drill out the locking pin on side will I be able to remove and reuse the key receiving part (so keep original keys), or has it gone anti-theft do you think ? Thanks.
@@Bill_9797 There are multiple ways the unit can fail but drilling out the safety pin is probably you're best option to free things up and retrieve the locking barrel. Once you drill out the pin, alll going well you can get the locking barrel out using the factory method. If not you will have to carefully cut it out around the flange. Regardless you will probably need a new ignition barrel component, top priority is not damaging the locking barrel!
Thank you. Yes. It’s worth a shot then to drill it out. Have ordered new ignition barrel with locking barrel. Would just like to be able to swap over to my original locking barrel and keep the keys that match the door. Hopefully drilling out the locking pin will allow me to remove the locking barrel. Fingers crossed ! 👍🏻
@@Bill_9797 once assembly is removed don't drill until u try the following: It worked for me and many others. While trying to turn key tap unit onto hard ground several times and in many angles or directions. Some people have success tapping unit while its upside down or on the end. The jammed part stopping key turning becomes dislodged momentarily.
Thanks for your review! Do you think DCF787 is enough for daily home DIYer compared to the more powerful one DCF887?
Yea for sure. 787 is plenty enough for most DIY even loosening car wheels lug nuts. If you need any more power than the 787 you're obviously doing something you shouldn't. The only reason to upgrade to the 887 in my opinion, is if you're driving in huge lag bolts without pilot holes on the regular.
@@hughbugger Thanks for your reply ! Appreciate it.
I've used mine heavily since 2018 but it's a bit weak for pickup truck lug nuts which didn't bother me since breaking torque with a long breaker bar and a cheater pipe is so easy. You can never have too much power for a given size impact and I've never cried myself to sleep over buying capable tools.
Yeah I learned the hard way too. Now I'm trying to figure out how to remove the housing. Steering is locked so no turning 90 degrees to unlock the airbag. Once I reached the point of considering of lighting a match I walked away. New morning after acceptance of the mistake.
Good luck with it! I wouldn't even know how to tackle your situation but I'm sure you're not the first!
@@hughbugger cars running again. Ignition housing is missing some parts now though.
1/8th allan key and cut so it's 1/8inch and you can get to them without moving the steering wheel, and you can do it all with the wheel still on, I just did it today
Good content, poor voice over
Thanks for the feedback big man
I have 10 formulas for making lubricants, an excellent method, the least expensive
interesting video but i still dont know how grease works, i mean why does grease makes it slippery and for example honey doesnt?
Grease is slippery due to the oil inside it. Oil reduces the friction coefficient between 2 surfaces by acting as an intermediate contact. Something sticky like honey has a very high surface tension and in turn increases the frictional coefficient. Have a read on wikipedia about surface tension and sheer thinning
Thank you for the video. I've been trying to figure applications for each grease and also applications you shouldn't use certain greases for.
book please
I have 10 formulas for making lubricants, an excellent method, the least expensive
@@mohamedbouhadef3818 I have 10 formulas for making lubricants, an excellent method, the least expensive
Thank you for this video my question can u help me where I can found informations about grease production I try to make small plant thank u even if u have books name
I have 10 formulas for making lubricants, an excellent method, the least expensive
@@صناعةشحومتكرارزيوت can you provide some formulaes for us
Sir tell grease hom made indutrial plz
I have 10 formulas for making lubricants, an excellent method, the least expensive
@@صناعةشحومتكرارزيوتانا اريد منك تعلم صناعت الكريز
I had to increase the volume to full. It's hardly audible.
Sorry to hear it. I will work on a better audio experience for my next video. Thanks for watching.
I have 10 formulas for making lubricants, an excellent method, the least expensive