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I will see if my mate has one that I can fit to one of his engines in the near future.

Awesome. I made a video on adjusting hyd lifters running as well, somewhere on my website & on my U-tube channel.

Well some of my information will be about 20yrs old. Many moons ago I got them from Lunati in USA but the ones we actually fitted which were .040" shorter came from some speed shop down south. Just do a search for pushrods & see what results you get.

@@mbsoldschool Roger dodger.

Glad it helped!

Set the tappet clearance once for the life of the engine or cyl head. Thay are quieter as well.

possibly a failed lifter. Just check that the valve stem height is the same as another cylinder on the comp stroke. I have encountered destroyed valve seats which cause the valve to stick up higher which in turn pushes the pushrod deeper into the lifter until it locks. Another check is tighten the bolt after you get zero lash & see how far it pushes the rod into the lifter. 3mm max to be safe. But it may actually open the valve when doing that because the lifter will be full of oil. In saying that though the valve will slowly close indicating that the lifter is bleeding down. If it does not bleed down then you have a seized lifter.

Yes, suitable for all 4 stroke petrol engines. Diesel use a different product which I have not tested but use it in my 1HZ toyota from the back of testing the petrol product. I figure the diesel one probably works as well.

Said for petrol

Glad it was helpful!

It won't work. The only way to do it is to remove the spring and fit washers on that little ledge in the main body until the plunger has no downward movement. Getting the correct washer will be your next challenge, I have never seen them. When I convert hyd to solid for rocker geometry checks, I just add washers under the spring & allow about .050" plunger movement. You would need to add more washers to make the downward movement to zero. This way you will still get oil feed to the pushrods but adding all these washers in there would only be very temporary as I feel that the spring may break apart because you will never get it to zero movement, so the spring will be subject to shock load and eventually break & then you will get a ticking noise due to excess clearance & of course a ground up spring will put metal powder through your engine. Long story short, I would not try it.

@mbsoldschool thank you for your information, kinda where I was heading with my research too. Oh well I guess there's always next year lol

of course they bleed down. I have been adjusting empty lifters all my career just like in the vid. Even if you can't see the lifter & adjust by feel to remove the play, you can still be within 1/8 turn out usually in the tight direction, so no harm done there. Back in the day I always built up oil pressure first before firing the engine so all the lifters had oil in them. By the way the engine will still start when most of the lifters have bled down. They will pump up once they have oil pressure.

The spring in the lifter maintains light pressure against pushrod. 12,000 miles sounds crazy. Once adjusted correctly, the lifters should last the life of the engine, unless the cam or lifter fails.

He fitted a 4bbl holley of unknown condition. That was fun, will release that one next. Of all the Holden stuff he has he has not got a 2bbl set-up.

I not long ago uploaded a more recent video on an actual complete motor. In reality you would only perform a geometry correction on a new set-up or when the head has been reconditioned. No point in doing it on a worn engine and the wear you are talking about is minimal unless you have a chopped out lobe or lifter.

@@mbsoldschool Thanks I'm gonna watch that.

Yeah, I know where your coming from. There are a lot of experts out there that are better than the engineers, didn't you know that ha ha. Considering the age of the technology in 1995, there are some devices around that actually do improve fuel economy & power, however the ROI is not good, so why bother fitting them. The problem is the marketers of such products over inflate the numbers to make sales. The customers are generally dis-appointed after trying them out. In this case I want to see if the owner actually notices any difference in performance or driveability. As for fuel economy, who knows if there is a substantial increase or not, I say not much. Probably similar results as the undercarb ones I tested years back but only on the older vehicles pre 1985.

@@mbsoldschool Fair enough. Be interesting to see what happens. Thanks

Nah, you are short on advance. A stock VH has 23-27@4400rpm but a VK EFI has 16-20@5000. You may have the VK dist fitted or your secondary spring is just way to tight & not allowing the advance to peak out or your cam lobe shaft is seizing or it's been modified. If your running premium fuel, you set up the standard specs to start with & then play around with adding advance until it starts pinging then knock it back a few degrees from there.

@@mbsoldschool I have checked distributer , it is an EFI model and with a degree wheel it only has a groove slot that only allows the pin on top plate to move 14 degrees

I am running a 202 in a 3.5 tonne truck , do I need a slower curve ?

99% of Holdens the timing is set with the vacuum hose off.

No plans at this stage to do that but that is exactly how it is re-installed. I use a small block of hardwood placed up against the inner part of the pulley and bash it to force the pulley on. Hitting directly on the pulley may install it faster but the hammer marks deform the surface. Only one thing you have to be careful of & that is missing the mark with the hammer & accidently hitting the outer part part of the pulley which may very well move it on the rubber joiner & knock the alignment out between the two parts.

Seems like a brutal way to instal it, shame they didn't have a bolt like the chev 6. Was worried I may damage the crank bearings and thrust by beating it on.

Yeah, beating it up against the thrust face. You can get a machine shop to drill & cut a thread, then use bolt. However not sure if that will weaken the shaft. Engine re-balance may also be required.

about 2mins into the vid is the tool you use to remove the crank gear.

preload is not what it seems in this case. It is only setting the plunger depth into the lifter bore, there is no actual real preload, just a small tension against the internal spring. Did you not see that I went .040" shorter on the rods because the head & block were shaved. This will drive the pushrod deeper into the lifter the more that is shaved from the head & block so therefore to maintain an acceptable lifter adjustment you must fit shorter rods and all this depends on the valve stem height as well. If the builder pockets the valves then they stick up higher which will drop the rod deeper into the lifter. A bit to consider rather than just slapping everything in & torque the rocker bolt down & hope for the best.

@@mbsoldschool Yes I saw all that, I'm talking about a std head and rods. If I tension them to spec that pretty much pushes the rocker bridge to the studs they sit on, so I'm not seeing how that would allow zero lash if you get what I mean? It's either tightened solid or the threads would be exposed by loosening them.

I gather you mean valve opening distance variations. 20 yrs ago I did the geometry exercise using a degree wheel & dial gauge, using different rockers at different geometry angles. There was only a few thou difference when the bolt difference was a qtr to half turn. In a 202 the geometry is set by the valve stem height. In this engine the relationship of correct geometry is affected by the cam base circle, lobe lift, valve stem height & pedestal height. The pushrod length only determines how far the rod will end up down the lifter bore after torquing the bolt down, it does not affect geometry at all.

Pull it out & start again and just do exactly what I did, easy as.

Nothing seems to beat rubber grease. That is its purpose to fit rubber parts so they don't get pinched. I have used it my entire career. There may be other brands out there that may be called another name but make sure it is for installing rubber components.

XU-1 spec is 900rpm. I would not go below as it idles to rough & the CD's would have to be in perfect condition & set-up perfectly. Max would be 1000rpm but only if the engine does not run on when it is switched off. I like 900-950 most of the time.

I am not familiar with this engine but it sounds the same as our 202 Holden engine, Ford cleveland & the chrysler hemi 6 set-ups & maybe a few more. They all have bolt down rocker pivots that are not adjustable, well not easily anyway. I have a few vids on my channel on the 202 engine lifter adjustment & rocker geometry that may be of use to get an understanding of how these work. In a nutshell, if you shave the head .020" you need .020" shorter pushrods to maintain the same lifter compression or you don't bother & allow the pushrod to go that little bit deeper into the lifter, it will still work. The important factor is how much movement tolerence is built into the lifter plunger. Our 202 has a range of up to 4mm before the lifter locks up and becomes a solid tappet, so a safety measurement would be 3.5mm max. Check out what I already have up and look out for a couple more coming up in the next 3-4 weeks.

I think your right ha ha ha