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AirbrushArtistry
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 8 พ.ค. 2023
วีดีโอ
D&D Demon skull !!
มุมมอง 6094 หลายเดือนก่อน
slowly adding value and erasing to create shapes and form.
Airbrushed Demon skull
มุมมอง 2554 หลายเดือนก่อน
using Iwata hp-B , and createx illustration colors. Creating textures, shapes, and form with value changes.
DnD airbrushed goblin update
มุมมอง 1268 หลายเดือนก่อน
in this video I go over the progress on the goblin portrait
DnD Goblin portrait, getting the ear worked in.
มุมมอง 4089 หลายเดือนก่อน
in this video I go over my approach to working in the ear.
Goblin portrait update, establishing dark values.
มุมมอง 779 หลายเดือนก่อน
In this video I go over the importance of establishing your values.
How to create form with value changes. Godzilla part 2
มุมมอง 13910 หลายเดือนก่อน
How to create form with value changes. Godzilla part 2
Glad YT just suggested you. Subscribed. Did you get that Mosquito? Love the way you named your textures as cartoon characters lol. When you first started talking I thought "Well DAMN!!! Elvis quit singing & became a TH-camr"
I appreciate it, I've got to get off my butt and do more videos. I've got 4 different projects going on.
Amazing airbrush art... Thanks for your tips.
I really appreciate it, thanks for the comment
Really good, thanks
Thank you too!
The smaller the nozzle. The thinner the paint has to be. 1 to 1 with createx is nowhere near enough reduction. You need to reduce it around 8 (reducer) to 1(paint) minimum with these smaller nozzle sizes. I know it sounds like alot of reducer but its not. If you see how much trouble he is having controlling the airbrush. You cannot paint like that.. The iwata micron and eclipse's have a multi hole head design for better atomization, and for better control. All these other airbrushes do not. Needle size is not the only consideration. Paint reduction & correct air pressure are key. You can see when he reduced the paint more, how much more consistent and more controllable the gun was. My opinion. An iwata eclipse will give you 99% of the performance. And, believe it or not the larger nozzle needle will help make it easier. The H&S airbrushes are a well made airbrush but they are one hole head designs so there is no technology behind them and no air conversion within the gun. They are just like the old hp-c and others. So the pressure at the gun is what comes out the tip. Not that way with the microns. A much lower pressure comes out of the tip because the air is converted within the gun to provide the best atomization.
Yep which is why I reduce my paint more. When using the micron on a painting I premix my colors 1:1 ratio. I put 5 drops of reducer in the paint cup then add 10 drops of the 1:1 mix. Sprays perfectly.
I never even touched a Micron, but I own a Creos PS-771, and can't imagine anything performing any better. To bring up Creos, and follow up by talking about how much better a Micron is than a Master from China, is not really helping. Iwata and Creos are both made in Japan and are high end tools with awesome quality control policies.
Well....I never once said anything bad about Creos airbrushs. I know Creos makes excellent products, based off of reviews from people who also own microns. And I also didn't compare the micron to a master airbrush, simply because there is no comparison.
@@hartmansairbrushartistry Don't worry brother, I wasn't accusing you. I'm just saying for a newbie it can be taken as saying that in comparison to the Micron, Master and Creos are on the same level. Which is to say cheap junk.
Looks like you're getting that infamous H&S hesitation At the tip. I believe the new Evolution has addressed that issue. The same issue shelved my Infinity for years, until Rob a the Dredd FX channel came up with a mod to fix it. The brush is now the detail machine I expected when I bought it.
I paused to comment, and then you addressed that exact point as soon as I resumed watching. My bad. I jumped the gun.😊
No worries, I love my H&S airbrushs, my evolution was my 2nd airbrush. I prefer a drop in nozzle, and there built like a tank. Plus I also prefer a solid handle. I switched my micron handle out for a solid handle.
What surface ? Scratchboard ?
Arches 140lb hot pressed water color paper
Not sure if this helps it's from Dru's ad on his site I copied and pasted ..... Thanks to the tighter tolerances of these new triggers, some users have experienced fitment issues in the newly manufactured airbrushes. This is because the cradle of the Takumi varies quite a bit in size due to the manufacturing process currently being used by Iwata. This is easily solved by grinding away a little bit of the ends of the trigger pin.
Got it
Uau tree “ eu comprei um não gostei muito limita gatilho melhor foi usar o original do cmsb mesmo
Sorry no hablo Español
@@hartmansairbrushartistry Google tradutor
I haven't run across many people who use the Iwata HP-B, most people opt for an Iwata Micron for detail work...although I gotta admit, the HP-B is a much less expensive option yet still quite capable for detail work--not in my hands, though. Some 15 or 20 years ago I owned a couple of HP-B airbrushes but found them very finicky to get a consistent spray with, much preferring either my HP-C+ or Micron C. then almost 10 years ago I got my first Olympos MP-200C Micron...immediately retired all my Iwata airbrushes and now only use Olympos guns, my best detail model being an SP-B w/ .18mm needle/nozzle--I just love that airbrush!
I do have the Dru Blair takumi micron. I just like to switch it up, I also have the hp-c+ that I mainly use for t shirt work. I've heard about those Olympus airbrush's, and in reading conversations on airbrush forums etc. That they have the same head design as a micron, don't quote me on it, but if I'm not mistaken they share or have very similar parts etc.
I enjoyed this video . Will try what you recommended with keep moving , don't stay in one spot to long etc. I use isopropyl alcohol to clean tip of brush maybe this causes my tip dry it might be making it past my nozzle being so thin? What kind of gesso you use I was going to get some liquidtex gesso. Thanks
Liquitex super heavy
I don't think using isopropyl to clean the tip of your needle contributes anything to causing tip dry--I think isopropyl evaporates too fast to do anything. Besides, I've been doing the same and I don't seem to have any issues w/ excessive tip dry. I've recently started messing around w/ Createx Illustration opaque white--what a super detail paint! Once my left eye heals (had surgery for detached retina in May) and I can SEE out of it again...I need to REALLY work w/ this paint! Too bad Createx's Illustration line can't be used on leather jackets--my favorite surface to airbrush on. For leather I have E'tac and/or Aqua Flow opaque white. What brand/model of airbrush(es) do you use primarily? That could possibly be part of your tip dry issue...the finer the needle and tip combo, the more you have to reduce your paint--and also lower the psi to lessen tip dry. Another thing you could try...Aqua Flow has something called "Flow Improver" item No. 301. I have no idea what's in it, but I use it sparingly when I seem to be having issues w/ tip dry or smooth paint flow. E'tac has a similar product called Condition Air--the main ingredient of which is glycerine....I've used this since I started using E'tac paint maybe 16 or 17 years ago. I hope this helps. Btw, I'm thoroughly enjoying this series of videos on the skull textures and have subscribed. I've been airbrushing for 44+ years but there are ALWAYS new techniques to learn! Thank you Airbrush Artistry!
Thank you 👍
You are welcome
Guessing my computer to old won't let me reply to my last comment to you. I'm using Iwata cm-c plus 1.8 or 2.3 needle set up with same spidering results. Also using same paint as you Createx illustration paynes grey cut 50/50. tried your 50/50 plus 5 drops yesterday. Still either spiders at first , some times works or tip dry even cut that much.I'm also at about 12-15 lbs pressure at regulator then I also dial it back at brush more if needed. frustrating . Thanks for the help I'm a novice.
Trigger control, less paint output and keep the airbrush moving
This helped a lot. I didn't know you can put H&S cups on the side feed adapter. This is awesome! Thank you!
Glad I could help!
Was trying to do same on a picture yesterday.Yours is turning out great.I keep having spidering and tip dry very frustrating . tried turning air down and then doesn't spray properly ? clean my tip as well.Thanks for taking time to do this video.
Remember to always keep the airbrush moving. That will help with spidering. Spidering is the result of to much paint and the airpressure moves the "wet" paint. What needle size are you using? Keep it up don't get discouraged. What kind of paint are you using??
Can't wait to see this beauty done. Looks amazing. Have you tried synthetic paper like yupo or terraslate? I've done the gesso route and was not much of a fan. Adding it to paper made it kind of rippley
Thanks again for everything. Going to use it on canvas and/or Masonite/hardboard.
I love how you're doing these videos. Got kind of a Bob Ross feel to it, haha. But you're very good at walking the viewer through your method. Explaining the technique. This is exactly the style of painting I'm doing myself. Your skill is much much higher though. Hahaha. My hat's off to you
I really do appreciate your comments. I started this you tube channel to help me be more productive with my artwork. Yet at the same time I just hope I'm able to help someone become a better artist themselves.
Sorry i missed it if you mentioned it, but what kind of paper are you painting this on? And im assuming this is on illustration paint?
Yes I'm using createx illustration colors. I'll get back with you on the paper. But please feel free to ask me anything.
Great project. I love stuff like this. I love the detail. I'm currently between projects so I'd like to attempt something like this for my son who plays D&D
Sorry for the late response I'm out of town. I'll get back to you in a couple of days 👍
Your blurs are so good I thought you actually blurred the actual video.
Not sure I'm understanding. Blurs ??
distracted by sound in back ground
If I'm not mistaken it was the dryer
I have the Dru Blair Takumi. Speaking of Dru Blair, I'm going to the School of Realism for two weeks this fall.
That's awesome!!!!!
Thank you! Liam loves his shirt!!
Yer welcome, always happy to do a Zilla shirt !!
25:07 hahahaha also i love the little characters you find in the texture, i cant unsee nemo
Yea.....I'm a Marine, so I'm a frequent dropper of the F bomb 💣. It is kinda funny all the little things you can find. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment.
Looking good mate, and yes all your tips do help us beginners
Thanks for the comment, I'm trying. Remember feel free to ask me anything.
super cool!!
Thanks I really appreciate it.
Looking good 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks 👍, took awhile but finally got him finished up.
Nice to see you back mate...thought you'd dropped off end of the world...thanks for mixing tips didn't realise you thin that much 👍
Thanks, yea just life happened. Good to be back!!!! But yes when I first started airbrushing I didn't reduce my paints enough and had all kinds of issues.
When I've compared brushes I've found that the line test can be a great indicator of a good brush. It's true that how fine a line you can get doesn't matter but how easy and consistent it is to achieve those lines is a good comparison point. Testing my HP-B+, Sotar and H&S giraldez infinity, the iwata was just more consistent and sprayed finer. The sotar was close but the lines were inconsistent compared to the iwata.
Thanks for the comment, the trigger response on the Iwata airbrush's is just spot on. I'm using my hp-b+ for my current project.
I get extremely consistent lines with my sotar. Extremely consistant.
Hello, please tell me how you clean the 0.18 nozzle? It’s also a very interesting point where people say that not every paint and varnish will suit this airbrush, is that true? Do you think water-based acrylic and varnish from Vallejo will be ok for this airbrush?
Thanks for the comment. Probably the most important consideration with this airbrush is proper paint reduction. I use createx illustration and wicked paint with this airbrush. Which is paint specifically made for airbrush, the pigments are finely ground. My ratio is approximately 70% reducer and 30% paint. And because of that my nozzle doesn't get clogged. And after every use I spray ammonia free glass cleaner through it to flush it out. I personally would not spray varnish through it.
@@hartmansairbrushartistry Thank you very much for the precise, detailed answer to the question. It's nice to get an answer from an expert in his field. You are absolutely right about the varnish, there are more budget models for this, I will definitely listen to your advice and take them into service. Thank you very much🤌👍👍
Take care of yourself first, I'm 56 and I wish I got into D n D when I was in high school back in the day I'm not sure why I didn't because that kind of stuff is right in my wheelhouse.
I appreciate it. I got into dnd....late elementary early Jr. High. My first set was the light blue box set. I still have my 1st edition adnd hardback books. Got back into it 2-3 years ago, my step son loves fantasy stuff. So at first it was just teaching him, then I got on a dnd Facebook group in my area to find other players.
Thought you'd given up mate 😂 good to see you back, look forward to your work
Glad you're still there.....patiently waiting 🥱
Have you tried the grafo T1 by harder and steenbeck or the sidefeed grafo t2 or the grafo t3 the glassbottle edition the t1 comes with 0.15mm. What I like about the Grafo series is that you don't have to push down the trigger for air then pull the trigger back for more paint that's what you call the dual action I think right but the way the grafo series works is that when you pull the trigger back both air and paint are released at the same consistency which I like it better then the dual action where you push the trigger down for air then pull the trigger back for paint and I don't think the grafo series is considered single action is where the air is pushed down by the trigger and you can control the needle by screwing it in or out for more or less paint. I just love the Grafo trigger style.
I've actually never tried the grafo, I just prefer a dual action trigger.
awesome brush
It really is unbelievable.
You are very inspirational thank you
Thank you, sorry for the late reply. I really appreciate your comment.
beautiful brush , i am looking at gettng same.I do hear the Creos P771 has the same nozzle out of the same factory owned by the same company and sprays the same (by all accounts) as the Iwata micron. would love if you were able to try a comparison to see whats what. am also torn between getting the Blair custom Micron CM-SB for less than the Takumi. have you tried the CM-SB ? more or less same as Takumi , just bit longer nose
Sorry for the late reply. I have no intentions on getting a creos. As for the cm-sb, my only concern would be parts availability.
@hartmansairbrushartistry is same brush as Takumi.. all parts are interchangeable.. is just the physical length of the trigger to nose is different... unfortunately I don't have access to try both so am trying to see of anyone out there has tried both and what difference that dimension actually makes..
does the older -custom-micron-sb-airbrush side cup fit on the Takumi a well ? (the non gravity feed one)
Sorry for the late reply. I'm not sure if it does or not.
@@hartmansairbrushartistry apparently it does. i wonder why if the Blar trigger and soft spring makes such an improvement, why doesnt Iwata use a shorter trigger and softer spring ?... but then again...why did they put an expresso cup on the side of the gun, only they know that...
@ShorrockPaul I know, it makes no sense. Hmmmm we have a great detail airbrush lets slap on a humungo cup....🤔🤔🤔
Brilliant mate Yea you like your snakes 😊 Maybe you could show us the process of doing something like a skull or similar in the future?
Thanks man I really appreciate it. Yes definitely doing a type of skull something next.
Awesome art work…
@@martinsprayart thank you
Thanks for the tips as a beginer really appreciate it, would love to see you do a skull on gesso
Thanks for the comment, feel free to ask any questions you might have.
Looking amazing. I am enjoying this video’s. Learning differently techniques. Thanks. Keep them coming.
Thank you so very much. I'm glad I can help.
Nice work man
Thanks, I appreciate it.
I own a Microm CM-C Plus and its amazing. Also just recieved the Micron Takumi and have ordered Blairs trigger and soft spring as well, along with a 2 ml cup and lid. Good to see Im not the only one wondering why they put that 7 ml cup on the Takumi.
There really is no rhyme or reason for it. The only thing I can think of is that they have seen people use microns on larger projects, and thought they would want a larger cup. But if that's the case why not offer that as a separate piece. Makes no sense to me whatsoever. Anyway, you will love the trigger and spring.
@@hartmansairbrushartistry It is strange. Lol. You're right about that.
Which 2ml cup did you order ?
@@ShorrockPaul H & S , cups screw right on.
Your Takumi setup is nearly identical to mine. I also have the Dru Blair trigger. I do not have the spring though. I wonder if I really needed it.
ive found that a 70\30 reduction is near perfect for extreme fine detail with nozzles .23 and smaller.
That's about what I've been using lately with my Takumi. Alot less tip dry, and the paint just flows better.
@hartmansairbrushartistry which paints do you use 70/30..I use createx wicked Opaque . I haven't tried 70/30 yet..
@@ShorrockPaul I use createx illustration on paper/canvas, and wicked transparent and wicked detail on t shirts.
Hey man awesome work so far! Such a great texture going on within this one. Keep it up!!
Coming from you, this is a huge compliment. I really appreciate it, you are one of the reasons I got back into airbrushing. You are a huge inspiration!!!!!!
Very happy to hear that. This showed up as a recommended video and I thought it looked so cool that I had to leave a comment. Awesome work- you've got a new sub. Best of luck with YT!@@hartmansairbrushartistry
@@hartmansairbrushartistry That's crazy man.
Tolles Video
Thank you very much 👍
Looking great mate, thanks for tips on reducing didn't realise you had to thin down that much . Would love to see your artwork on a t shirt 👍
Thanks 👍, I'll have to pull up some photos of T shirts I've done. My personal opinion is that paint reduction is soooooo...important for proper paint flow, and less frustration.
Awesome videos. Keep them coming.
Thank you, I know it's a long slow process. So thank you for the compliment.
The H&S Evo 2024 looks very promising. The solved a lot of quirks of the old evo.
Yep they fixed the trigger issue.
Thanks for the video
I hope it helps
Thanks for the video. I really want that takumi with the Drew mod. I build scale models and dioramas. So after spending days weeks and months building a model i want a paint tool to just work. I have a H&S infinity CR Plus I just don’t like it. I always have to fiddle with it. My trusty Iwata eclipse HP-CS just works. I may give a Gaahleri airbrush a try just do to the price. So many good reviews out there. But reviews like the recent Gaahleri seems to be shills that promote their product line. I bought the harder based on reviews. I know reviews are subjective but I know iwata performance so I know it’s a brand I can trust.
I love my H&S evolutions, but I've had to modify the trigger because of the delayed response. I know they fixed this issue with the 2024 version. I have 2 iwatas and the trigger response is instant. The Takumi is just....beautiful.
@@hartmansairbrushartistry how do you modify the trigger
@redtuscani check out my video on my H&S evolutions. In the very beginning I show you and go over how to do it.
@@hartmansairbrushartistry thanks for the info