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thanks!! this is why I had problems probably, the previous guy was messing with it / but now I know what to look for because I wanted to replace the tube with a Capricorn tube which is rated up to 300C - have you printed PETG with this printer ?

YOU ARE AMAZING! THANKS! 🫡🫡🫡🫡🫡🫡🫡🫡🫡🫡🫡

@Just 3D Printing, hoffe mal habe alles korrekt verstanden! meine Muttersprache ist nämlich Schweizer Deutsch. Aus versehen hab ich auch den X-Y Riemen ausgebaut konnte Ihn dank deiner Hilfe wieder erfolgreich zusammen Bauen. Wollte aber eigentlich den Sensor der Z-Achse auf Funktionskontrolle kontrollieren, dafür musste ich aber erst mal das Gehäuse der Düse Heizschlange entfernen, wo sind auch der Sensor befindet. Weil die Düse fährt mit der Z-Achse beim Eichen einfach in die Platte, darum wurde Mir geraten ich soll den Sensor der Z-Achse erst mal kontrollieren. Du könnest nicht auch ein Video über das Gehäuse machen, wo Sich die Düse mit dem Heizelement, Sensor mit bestückten Platine machen wie man es auseinander Baut und wieder zusammen Baut?

Brilliantly explained! But I have a question. There is a strain gauge at the top. When I autolevel my Vyper, the first two autolevel probers work fine. But when it gets to the third probe, it smashes down on the bed. Many have told me that the strain gauge is bad, but if it were bad, why would it work for the first two and always quit on the third? I don't want to buy another gauge and just "maybe" have it work, when it might be something wrong with the hot end or even something else. Can anyone give me a clue what might be wrong, or is it the strain gauge for sure. And if so, please explain how it could work twice and always fail on the third?

thanks man

Great video One question When pushing the ptfe tube through to clean, is the hotend heated up or cold?

Hi, Just one may be small question . How can we know the normal calibration on the filament of the screw. Is there only by checking the filament if we remove the tube and extrude 100mm for example. And if the answer is yes. What could be the apparence of the filament to know if it is not to much or not to low. Thanks in advance for any info or picture about the correct aspect of the filament when it is weell done . All you video on maintenance on the Vyper are nice thanks

Hi, Just have some issue with me Vyper. Sometime my print feel ok for me sometime not. People says look at you calibrations (heat, filament size , length of 100mmm , Z offset , ETC... ) . I just change the tube by the blue one (call capricorn , everyone says It is the best I follow). But yesterday I print two parts at 220°c for Sunlu coffee PLA then nothing my printer was not able to push any filament even if I push with pronterface my heat to 240°C and I push manually on the filament. So this morning I decide to disassembly the hotend. The day pass I work on other bussiness to help my neighbor and now I check how to make this job. I find your video... I have only two words Thank a lot. I will try now tomorrow with more confidence on this job it is my first time to touch on hardaware of the printer. Really appreciate this video.

Thank you for this amazing video and the invaluable information ! Anycubic should cut you checks for this information which they do not provide . I'm hooked on your videos ...Thank you again !!

Hey. I had to clean my hotend. I did it but the PTFE tube was burned and stuck into it. So I heated up with lighter and cleaned it. But i somehow inhaled accidentally fumes from that. Should I be concerned about something?

Thanks for taking the time to film this. Helped me out a ton!

Very instructive !

I learned something new and the way he explained it was beautiful step by step

Cheers! This fixed the issue I was still having after cleaning and re-adjusting multiple times. Like another commenter, I didn’t have much if any gap after tightening. However the tube was down as far as I could get it (checking multiple times and marking estimated depth with a marker). It’s printing fine, but I’ll check after a few prints to confirm there’s no leakage.

I can't thank you enough for giving the best alternative method I've seen so far, not to mention, the only one that actually worked! I did have one small issue though. Although I was very impressed with how you couldn't even see any line where it had continued on yours, mine you could. Would you have any idea why that might be happening? If not, it's cool, I'll just deal with it.

Thanks! The printer comes with very little documentation. The problem with auto-load is that it doesn't know when it's finished, so you have to watch it to manually stop it. Might as well just shove it through by hand and be done.

Thank for the tip.

This is strange. I have a vyper and I took the belt tensioner apart and there was an extra black piece in there…so there was one with the tightening screw in it and one without. Did you have that as well? I left it out since you didn’t have it in your video and my belt feels like it moves more smoothly

My thermistor wires keep breaking away from the heatblock. I've gone through 3 or 4 hotends already. The wires seem to degrade with heat and motion. I was thinking of getting some heat resistant epoxy and sealing the thermistor wires in place, could that potentially work?

thanks a bunch for these ! Learned a lot

the hotend block moved about 45 degrees when I was changing the nozzle (first time). I used pliers to move it back. Not sure if I broke it?

i did exatly what you did but i have no gap

Big thank you, you helped me a lot

Too bad that none of the pause codes work on the Vyper. Beep is okay if you are going to be monitoring the printer for the whole print.

Hi, PLEASE DONT THROW YOUR TOOLS DOWN ON MICROPHONE ON YOUR NEXT VIDEO. thanks

Thank you good sir. As another one who shall not be named, this video helped tremendously. Cheers

First of all, thank you for the video. I didn't actually understand how to fix the radiator, which, in order to be aligned with the holes relative to the hot end, needs to be unscrewed by about ten degrees. Once the Teflon tube is inserted and the nozzle is closed, the missing part of the radiator is still soft and rotates, causing the plastic to come out from the top of the hot end.

I would like to graciously thank you for this my friend! Really amazing help!

I have been 3D printing for more than 3 years... I learn every day ;-) Thanks mate!

Thank you for taking the time to document this and upload.

Thanks!

So glad i found that video, thank you.

Thank you super easy

Thankyou Sir!

Thank you so much for your video. I think you have just saved me some money, and now I can fix the issue without purchasing a new motor. Happy New Year! :)

Many thanks. I was another of these individuals. I left it for 2 months and forgot how to assemble it.

Thank you so much for this video. I had the same problem happen and I was scared that I ruined the entire printer.

If the nozzle is slightly lower than the original will that affect bed levelling? Or will it compensate and adjust ?

With the G-code in the description, can I insert it into the custom G-code slot where it says pause at layer height? (Prusaslicer)

Thanks brother.🙏

Are you still impressed by it? I am looking for a big 3d printer. Is this still good?

Hey ho, thanks for the video. CUrrently I found different explanations about the bowden tube. Some telling, the nozzle and the Heatbreak should fit together, without the bowden tube between, you mention, that I should apply the hotend, then the nozzle and into the gap the bowden. Is both possible ? I am confused but very new to the 3d Printer topic. Thanks.

Nice Video!

Thank you very much for the video it helped me a lot. Greetings from Germany and stay healthy...

Do you have a video of the Y belt? these little black pieces came out and IDK where they came from.

Howdy. Just a thought can one change the heatbreak to a all metal one so there is no Bowden tube to deal with? Also, just wondering what after market hotend assembly that is better then the stock one can purchase? After watching other creative content, there seems to be a variety but few discuss this printer. I am not knowledgeable enough to figure this on my own. Thanks and regards

This video was a huge help. A million thank yous. I was confused on a few things you explained but as I made my way working on the printer, this helped me tremendously avoid miatakes and i only had to figire out a few things. Great video.

You made my day! Thanks

Might I inquire, what spool system are you using? Also great video and tip.

Lol.