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What?

Yep

It will be a little stiff to pull but better than metal on metal

i started in 2013 and even back then sniper were using .36 and above, so i really doubt that

nope

Some time ye

For the scraping noise check your screw holding the trigger box in. It may be too long and is scraping the cylinder, if so then just take the screw out and sand it down. It is a very easy fix. 1- take off the body. 2- take off the trigger guard. 3- Take out the furthest screw to the back of the gun on the trigger box. 4- file or sand the screw down and reassemble.

Is it good for o Rings though??? I this PTFE grease would be the best

@@siliconesword1798 PTFE grease is good for metal on metal, silicon oil is best for compression parts

Which would be great except that anything petroleum based will damage the piston ring.

@@rogerborg Late to the party but, just use Lithium grease. Great for metal on metal and wont corrode the o-rings

Go on evike.com and try the matrix cylinder or airsoft gi and try the cheapest one there. I would recommend trying to get a used one on the app Hop Up though

xD spring

Hi mate, Watch from 2:00 and follow the steps closely, make sure there is no wiggle from the spring guide stopper and test how thick the shimmings are that you need between the handle of the sgs and trigger housing (that is important) at 7:15. this should solve your problem! hope it helps!

thx a lot

Hi mate, I have a PDI 6.05 barrel (One piece wax spacer and LRB mod), Quick-hop R-hop installed, Stock Hop chamber with Seal mods and TDC mod, Stock cylinder, upgrade cylinder head, some sort of upgrade piston and Spring guide, AA m150 spring (cut down to 495fps), Stock trigger unit with outdoor and tactical Sears and a hell of a lot of mods! And yes it should be! don't wrap too much on (just so it fits near perfect in the cylinder) you made need to super glue the end of tape to make sure it stays on! also lots of silicone oil! Hope it helps!

ik im late but can you do a video on the mod you did with the sears so it doesnt wobble ik you cut a square with a bottle cap but where do you place them?

Hi, Do you have a 45* trigger unit or 90*? If it is 90* you might have to loosen the front screw that holds the trigger unit to the receiver and losen the screws just a tiny bit on the unit. Make sure the trigger sear isn't too long, and make sure everything is compatible! If it is a 45* sear, make sure the piston is also 45*. Have a look down the cylinder when the trigger unit is on, take the barrel off and everything out of the cylinder, look down the cylinder and see if the spring guide stopper is centred, it may well not be... this could also be the case on the 90* set. if it is too high you will need to add small shimmings between the notch of the spring guide stopper and the trigger unit (like at 7:05) and repeat adding more shimmings (small cuts of paper folded up) between them until it is smooth! hope it helps my friend! Please get back to me and tell me how it goes!

Hi, It is 45 trigger unit.Cylinder is also 45. Spring guide stoper is centred if i am right. I found someone in my area who is repairing, upgrading airsoft guns.Maybe is something with cylinder . Thanks for fast respond.

I have done a couple things to make it quiet, first i made a perfect air seal through the whole setup, I made an impact pad for the piston in the cylinder which makes it a softer thud than the normal crack you get from the piston hitting the cylinder head. Lastly I made a suppressor out of an old bike pump, some foam tubing which is cut and placed evenly apart from each other inside the tube. and that is why it is so quiet! hope it helps!

Bucking and chamber*

Hi Fraser, I actually use the stock hop chamber, but i have done every single mod possible to it! the TDC was the most important to get more lift, but chasing the right setup is as well... In this video I have the PDI W-hold bucking in there, which is fairly consistent and can lift heavier bbs. I have chosen to R hop my barrel lately and it is much more consistent and accurate and can also lift heavier bbs! if you wish to know more about the r-hop give me a shout and i'll tell you something not many people know! hope it helps!

Unseensniper Hi, i would like to know your inner barrel used for those rhop. Mine is pdi, and I'm having a very hard time to make it work :(

@@unseensniper9452 Would be nice to see how you did it!

Everything in here is stock apart from the small upgrade kit and the sears, watch video and mainly focus on the spring guide stopper being centred and straight. Add shimmings between the sgs and the trigger mechanism housing between the latch (nub) and the socket in which it fits into! hope it helps!

I think the cylinder is the problem. As you metioned your piston has to move smoothly inside the cylinder with mine really doesnt... You suggested to bend the cylinder abit. Also I think the Mb03 cylinder is slightly smaller than any other VSR cylinder. Did you sand any of your inner cylinder upgrading parts?

the MBO3 cylinder does have a slightly smaller inner diameter to most others, but please don't sand the cylinder, unless you have some incredibly fine sand paper after sanding. I would sand the piston down a little, use a sharpie to colour the outside of the piston and sand it down until the colour is gone, and repeat until it slides smoothly without wobbling around! hope it helps!

Try like 2000grit sandpaper

please can you tell me your trigger setup and what piston it is?

it could be that your piston and 2nd trigger sear are catching, look for any signs of wear particularly deep scratches on either the piston (where it catches the piston sear) or the actual sear its self, try adding some silicone oil on the sear. also check that the top screws on the trigger unit are not done too tight (the ones that hold it together) and make sure the trigger sears can move freely. hop it helps!

Sure, so basically you are going to need 2 things, a normal/upgraded hi capa blowback unit and disconnector, if you drop these in it will change a full auto hi capa to a semi auto hi capa (if it came and was advertised full auto, if was not and should be automatic you need to bend the disconnector lever on the leaf spring to make it stronger). Hope it helps!

thank you !!! i will give that a try and see what happens :D

it worked :) thanks dude

no they are from pps, if you get the cheap ones they are usually ok, if you take care of them and don't use anything that isn't the piston or spring guide. I had to do a bit of sanding and did have to make the hole inside of the piston a bit bigger for it to be smooth. Hope it helps!

thx m8

yes it should be! please give feed back once you are done!