วีดีโอ

It works just fine, no issues

I might need to do this on my ej20x going in place of my ej25. I'm doing the timing belt soon so might as well do this as well, did you have to plug the avcs oil ports on the exhaust cams or anything like that? Apparently a lot of people are saying you have to do that.

@@D310N12 if you keep the AVCS cam gears on the exhaust cams you only need to adjust the exhaust timing a tooth. You only need to plug those holes in the cams if you try to use your original non AVCs cam gears on the AVCS cams. If you already have the timing set, it’s easy to adjust back a tooth by putting a 1/4” hose in between the belt and the gear and barring the engine over. It’ll make the belt jump a tooth. Does all of that make clear sense?

@stvnswld @stvnswld yeah that makes sense. Im using the avcs cams and gears so i should be good then. I haven't installed the timing belt yet so when I go to install the new one I should just be able to move the exhaust one tooth before putting on the belt, correct?

@@D310N12 yes, make sure to retard the gear and not advance it. You got this. Let me know how it comes out!

@stvnswld sounds good man I appreciate the help and advice. I'll let you know how it all goes.

No codes - I can’t speak from experience on the exhaust cams, but you could adjust them as well. I believe if you have exhaust AVCS the natural state is advanced and they retard into additional overlap, you you likely need to retard the exhaust cams. You should check with a degree wheel though if you are going to use a non-avcs exhaust sprocket. On the intake cams it appears Subaru moved the dowel pin in the cam and not the location in the gear, but I would verify that the exhaust is the same case.

Yeah low and mid range off boost will be sluggish due to the lack of valve overlap

The stock senders are pretty wonky

Yes

Great to hear!

I wish it was a 4 bolt, but the valve covers were swapped because its got roller rockers and an LT4 hotcam and the stock covers didn’t clear the aftermarket rockers!

Right?!

www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/battery-terminal/p/duralast-zinc-side-battery-terminal-adapters-2-pack/709342_0_0?spps.s=3245&cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:BAC:19488533492&&CATARGETID=120054150001289256&CADevice=m&gclid=CjwKCAjwrranBhAEEiwAzbhNta2aZT_lVe8fRuIND1jq6JQlZ_5u0aNgjYXbIzwfkLnrNv5OQmISVBoCC8UQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

@@426440 doesn't work

Always!

Does it make a difference if you hold the gas down a little? It could be the pump/regulator but I would say probably not. Maybe IAC, but hard to say without more info.

If you’re going to use the AVCS no, time it normally. If you advance it a tooth you will be running cam timing thats too far advanced to make good power, and end up with piston to valve clearance issues using the avcs.

I would guess you might have a cam that has slipped teeth on the timing belt, or an avcs gear that isn’t working correctly

@@426440 Thanks for reply. The thing is that the car runs perfect one day and the next day runs like trash for a couple of days and than perfect again and so on… Could it be cloged banjo bolt filters?

The banjo bolt filters are usually in line to the turbo, I don’t think I’ve seen them on the banjo bolts supplying the OCVs but I could be wrong. It could be that though. It also may be your cam sensors themselves since its an intermittent issue. An intermittent problem tells me its electrical and not mechanical.

Hello bro, did you manage to solve this, I have the exact issue on the same engine

@@car_guy Unfortunately no🙁any help or ideas?

Ahh - do you have spark? Fuel?

Thanks 💯

Glad it was helpful!

To be honest I’m not sure about the timing on the EJ205 cams. Do you know if the PN for the cam gear is the same as the EJ255/7?

@@426440 13054AA070 is the part number for the drivers side intake cam and 13044AA061 part number for the passenger side intake cam for the EJ205

I'm doing this swap now, did you have to advance the timing? Also on avcs did you block the oil feed lines or leave them?

Yes - it will run either way but you will make a lot more mid range if you advance them a tooth.

Do you have to plug the AVCS cam? Or you just leave it as it and advance a tooth?

@quocle4614 It depends what you are doing with the swap really. I took out both AVCS by tapping and plugging with threaded steel plugs with red loctite. I put the stock WRX cam gears on. Leave the top oil feeds to the heads alone as it's the heads oil supply.

Did you have to advanced it by a tooth?@@areexsevenproject

I can’t remember the torque settings on the plates, but its right on the plates themselves, but I wound up torquing them to about 5 ft lbs less. As I was torquing one of the 10 MM bolts the threads on the nuts pulled. The spec is right at the line for a grade 10.9. I bought the plates second hand and I don’t think the supplied nuts were actually 10.9. Regardless I was worried about pulling the 10.9s I replaced them with and stayed a little lower than the limit. How did your second gear blow? 1-2 shift?

@@426440 It blew just going around a roundabout, not even on load. But I installed the blast plates after replacing 3rd gear. After that the 2nd gear always made a weird noise, and it only lasted 600km. I'm now running an my97 gearbox, with the blast plates, but the gearbox is weaker to start with. These are the torque specs I have: M8 - 40nm/29.50ft-lb M10 - 70nm/ 51.63ft-lb

As long as you’re good with it, my tank was empty. Its easy to drain the tank if the fuel pump is working, not so much if it already crapped out.

Can’t blame you, mine was already cut

Just saw this - did you figure it out yet?

On the pump? The hoses have different connectors

@@josephzamora2267 I got it ;)

@@xxsadlysoulzxx5010 cool. I've never dropped the tank because a previous owner cut a hatch, how did you connect and reconnect the lines with the tank in the way

It is wayyy easier don’t even need tools honestly

Thanks!

@arnoldsmind I agree I just solved my issue. Same engine 93 Camaro ​@@426440

Hey John, did you measure the angle/crush already? If its one port only are you sure its sucking it up from below the intake? It could also be a valve stem seal/guide, or maybe even your PCV setup since its probably hooked to the back of your carb (right near #8)

@@426440 just threw a victor jr intake on with 0 .125 felpros. Looked down runner #8 with light under intake. Big void. I guess model clay on all 4 sides? Then I could get an idea.

@@Supanova70 im not sure if im missing something, did you try it with the solder?

@@426440 not yet the machine shop said to use washers on all 4 corners that equal gasket I'd. Then model clay on all runners top and bottom. Slice in half and measure depth.going to try tommorow.

Yes 100%

Thank you for your video and for taking the time to reply to my question!

No problem, I hope it helps!

So just to clarify my understanding; currently my intake is perfectly parallel with the heads. To correct the angle, I would need 3 thousandths milled off of the top on both sides of my intake?

Correct - to be in spec you want to be .003-004 tighter at the bottom on both sides, so you would take .003 off the top. I would say though I wouldn’t really expect you to have an issue if you’re parallel. Most people don’t have an issue even if they are a little out of spec and tighter at the top like mine was. But stick shift cars are more prone to pull oil because of the vacuum generated by engine braking. Also, you mentioned you’re working on a small block Chevy. If you are having a problem make sure you have enough clearance at the end/China walls, sometimes these will hold the manifold up, especially if you’re using the thick cork gaskets that come in the gasket kits. I always just run a fat bead of RTV there.

GM should have for sure

They made access holes on the h bodies after 2000. My 02 bonneville had one

Combo, fuel pump AND stuck fuel injectors!