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Happy to help

Oh nice one. That’s what I hoped would happen with the video. 👍🏻

@@JamesRichards-j9o oh good. It’s such a simple fix too. 👍🏻

@@Hammertime66 I found it to be really good. I’ll do a better review on it and the Erbauer multi tool.

@@GDB1987 ok, so some valves have pins that move to a greater extent than others. The head itself has an expanding phial inside that expands during high heat, summer, and contracts when it’s cold, winter. The phial presses the pin down depending on the degree of expansion to shut off water flow that’s not needed to heat the radiator when the room is warm. The numbers denote the temp of the room. So 1 is going to shut the valve down sooner than 5. You can usually spot a faulty valve head in that it won’t allow water through no matter how cold the room is or it never shuts the water off no matter how hot it is in the room. If you can see the phial you can try putting the head into the fridge and seeing if it contracts and then expands in a warmer area?

@@usedandreviewedrealworldre4184 thanks for the detailed response. I will have a go putting some in the fridge and seeing if any change. The heads all say 'acl Lifestyle' on them. Annoyingly no other code etc. I imagine they were fitted when the house was built circa 1997, so wouldn't be surprising if they were deteriorating. But even when I've looked at new heads, the inner spindle / slider seems to move up / down 5mm when turning the dial from 0 to 5. Where as the pins on the radiators only move up / down 1-2mm. I guess what I'm asking is should the pin movement up / down match the movement of the spindle in the valve head? In which case I may need different valve heads where the spindle has less travel? Or should expansion of the phial at higher temperatures accommodate for this? Apologies if this is unclear, it's quite hard to describe. Thanks again!

@@GDB1987 the pin doesn’t need to move a lot, but the phial needs to give decent pressure down onto the pin. Another way to see if the head is working is to dial down the TRV head to 0 and then turn on the heating. Wait for 15mins to see if the radiator heats up. Then open the TRV one number at a time checking to see if the radiator heats up. Leave a minute between each setting and feel the radiator. ACL Lifestyle are made by Drayton and are still available

@@usedandreviewedrealworldre4184 thanks! So yes essentially they all close the valve at 0 and no hot water comes through. But turn to 1 and the hot water flows seemingly regardless of the room temp. For example today it's 23°C in the upstairs bedrooms as it's sunny. I understand roughly the valves have number 1 = 10°C, 2 = 15°C, 3 = 20°C, 4 = 25°C and 5 = 30°C. So I would expect no hot water until I turn to between 3 and 4. Perhaps the phial isn't expanding enough anymore to apply the necessary pressure? I guess the easiest thing would be to try a few new heads. Then if no different it's likely an issue with the valve itself / the pin. Would you recommend to replace them with more ACL Lifestyle heads, or can any head work assuming the collar is the right diameter to screw down. Thank you again for taking the time to reply, I really appreciate it!

@@GDB1987 you could try a few heads. It’s difficult to explain without being there. If I was there I’d be able to tell if the head was faulty straight away from experience.

No, don’t order them if they’re that much, they’re comfortable but not worth £221! Check out the Uvex range, I’ve done a video on them earlier so check those out. They’re the most comfortable I’ve ever worn for the money.

@@usedandreviewedrealworldre4184 Thanks for that but they have been dispatched, I guess I can always return them for a refund. I'll take a look at the Uvex range you have done reviews on.

@@ostwelt wow! I’m gobsmacked at your very kind response. I started doing the videos because a lot of the others were sponsored and box openings and as such weren’t tested in a real world situation. I keep getting told I go into too much detail, but I’m always left with questions when I watch the other videos. I’ll do my best to keep the videos informative and of genuinely used tools. Thanks so much for the positive feedback. I appreciate it.

Yes I would. What line of work will you be using it for or is it DIY?

@@usedandreviewedrealworldre4184 thanks for the reply. My no name corded hammer drill has given up. So it's just for diy and is most likely overkill but with the adjustable chuck I can at least switch between masonary and wood. It's between this and the SDS Ryobi drill but I can get the Makita (+2x 5ha batteries+charger) for the same price as the Ryobi because of a local store doing a price match/beat. So I'm deciding what platform to buy into.

@@thatashguy well I’ve been using it pretty much every day. I’ve used it with an SDS wood chisel, chiselling out brickwork, 24mm core bits, mixed plaster with it etc. if you can get the deal then I’d go for it. Ryobi are ok for DIY, but I wouldn’t use it for anything else. So what will do a lot will do a little. I love it, but I’m a Makita fanboy! Hope that helps with your choice. 👍🏻

@@usedandreviewedrealworldre4184 awesome, thanks. I'll think I'll join the Makita club.

@@deepteshagrawal there’s nothing you can do about this other than replace the whole valve.

@@usedandreviewedrealworldre4184 Thanks a lot !!!

I bought two pairs from the same manufacturer, just different models. They both fit perfectly on me. I’m size nine and a fairly broad foot. I swap them over every two weeks to give them chance to air out. The actual outer sole, the patterned orange grip bit underneath, has worn unevenly right in the middle of the ball of my foot. Seems there’s possibly an unevenness in the manufacture. They’re very comfortable though. Great if you have aching feet.

Very comfortable and not too hot. I wear mine for at least 10 to 14 hours a day.

They aren’t too bad. The fancy trim across the shoes has started to come off where the shoe creases when kneeling down. The sole isn’t wearing evenly on the ball of the foot due to a raised section so there’s a circular area that’s going to wear through before the rest of the sole. These are feeling slightly more comfortable still than the other pair I bought and have a video on. The aching feet have stayed away. They do tend to stink a bit after a while, but it’s nothing different than any other pair of boots I’ve had. The soles are too thin to last any significant time, there’s not a lot to get through before they’ll be bald on the ball of the shoe. 8/10 so far.

Thank you for your reply, I am on my feet most days as a caretaker averaging 18000 steps a day. I am really looking for something like these for comfort but will last longer than 12 months.

@paulparry4734 im a self employed plumbing and heating engineer so crawling on my knees a lot and dragging my feet when I’m lying on my sides on floors. I think they’ll do 12 months easily. My only real gripe is the sole is thin, but they are very comfortable.

If you bought a Novopress 103 for that much with an angled jaw set you’ve had an amazing bargain!

Oh I haven’t completely swapped. I bought it for some contract work that ended sooner than I’d have liked. It’s come in handy for repairing piping that’s full of water or still live even.

The TRV head is faulty and the whole valve needs replacing, unless you can find a head that’s the same and fits the valve?

You took the pin right out of the valve??

I originally bought the tool because I was promised a lot of work needing no hot work permit, that never materialised. I’ve used the angled jaws quite a few times lately, but I don’t think the cost is justified to be honest. Until I’m using it at very regular intervals I’d say no. My mate bought his recently and he’s used his continuously and is raving about it. Swings and roundabouts. I would still say the small size of the angled jaws is still too big in a lot of situations. Price definitely needs to come down. 👍🏻

@@usedandreviewedrealworldre4184 Yes I agree by looking at the video, the gap you need is still quite considerable, more than a pipe clip anyway. Thanks so much for taking the time to reply and make the video, its really appreciated.

No problem. I’ve tried to make something that’s not influenced by the manufacturer or seller so people get a real world perspective.

Lol probably!

Thank you for the feedback. I’ve got some more reviews on other boots I’ve bought and worn for a year. Unfortunately the Uvex boots are becoming harder to buy, the Vi-bram soled ones are the best.

Depends on level of leaking and your budget or how easy it is to drain down? If you’re a confident DIY’er then change it. If not you could try Leak Sealer, it’s a chemical additive that stops small leaks within 24 hrs usually. It’s not a permanent solution, but would help until summer.

Glad it’s helped. Add a little oil and it shouldn’t get stuck again. 👍🏻

No problem. We all like a saving! 👍🏻

Glad it helped 👍🏻

It would take a while to see the radiator cool down. Usually the radiators thermostatic head fails in the closed position and stops the radiator getting hot. Sometimes you can buy a new TRV and the new head might fit the old valve.

Many thanks for the (instant!) reply - much appreciated.

There’s a higher spec Makita that is fully covered vibration wise. I find the Makita more Robust.

Thanks. Hope it helped. 👍🏻

You might not be pushing it down hard enough or yes it’s possibly faulty and the whole valve requires replacing.

@@usedandreviewedrealworldre4184 Thanks for the reply. I asked because even though I turned the knob to the frost setting the radiator was still very warm. I then proceeded to remove the the TRV in order to check the pin. And that's when I found that even after it was pushed down water still continued to flow.

I would suggest that maybe the TRV head or whole valve needs replacing. The TRV head has a wax phial inside that can fail, the head then needs replacing.

Thank you for your reply! We'll try to swap it with one of our other rad's TVR heads and hope that will do the trick.

If it’s pushed through the expanding phial inside then you’ll have to replace the head

@@usedandreviewedrealworldre4184 Noted.

Glad to help 👍🏻

Good question. The TRV is kaput! I’d replace the whole valve for a new one. If you think you can manage it then give it a go? If you’re not sure then pop back and ask and I’ll give you some pointers? 👍🏻

@@usedandreviewedrealworldre4184 Thanks, that's what I thought.. I think I'll call a plumber. I'm sure I could do it myself... but why risk it?

@@Kodemaestro make sure you get your inhibitor checked and topped up at the same time. 👍🏻

Glad it helped

Sorry I’m a little confused. Are you saying the video is a joke or that the hammer function of the drill is a joke?

Sorry, english isn't my mother language. I meant the hammering function.

@@musikus7092 no apology needed. The hammer/chisel action on this model rotary drill is quite good. I’ve compared it to a Dewalt, Milwaukee and hikoki and it was an easy winner, in my opinion. I haven’t used a Hilti for a long time, so can’t comment on its performance. I haven’t regretted purchasing this Makita, not once. Hope this helps? 👍🏻

@@musikus7092 also, the hammer action depends on the hardness of the brickwork and the quality of the drill bits. The brickwork in this video was older brickwork.

Thanks​@usedandreviewedrealworldre4184

Spray some WD40 onto the pin and let it sit for a while. There’s always a chance that it’s broken, but try that first. Give it some more gentle tapping once it’s had time to soak.

Pleasure

No problem

Glad it helped 👍🏻

Aww thanks. Glad it helped 👍🏻

You might be lucky and find a different manufacturer’s head to fit, but were the pins free moving and not stuck up or down? If they’re free and not stuck then it’s the TRV heads that are faulty. They have an expanding wax phial inside that maybe faulty.

@@usedandreviewedrealworldre4184 all free moving, just seems odd they were all broken

I’m a plumbing and heating engineer, I don’t need anymore tools or I’ll need a bigger van!

Dry the pin with some paper. Add a small amount of white vinegar or scale remover. Allow it to sit for a short while. Dry it up again and then add release agent (WD40) and then some oil.

This doesn’t have a magnetic charger. Nebo sell replacement battery for this torch and there are numerous other manufacturers selling this battery.

I apologise, I have the Nebo Torchy 2k which has a magnetic charger on the base, but the batteries are the same and the torch can only charge batteries through the proprietary central posi on the negi end of the battery, and spare Nebo batteries cant be bought separately.

Glad to help