วีดีโอ

Thank you for the comment. Yes, I made a video about exactly that, feel free to take a look. It is a little long but goes into it in detail. th-cam.com/video/4ZcgfOGrU10/w-d-xo.html

Thank you for the comment. The charger not recognizing the battery or recognizing it and refusing to charge it can be different things. If the charger does not recognize the battery it will do nothing when the battery is connected, no beeps, no attempt to charge, no indicators. If the charger does respond when the battery is connected, but refuses to charge it this will be associated with some beeping, error codes displayed on the indicators, or the such. If the battery around 15 volts that is on the discharged side of things it seems a little low. The protection circuits inside the battery pack should prevent battery discharge beyond the state of no return. at 15 volts it might be a little low for the charger to accept and the battery may have been locked out, no way to know for sure unless connecting it up to OBI and checking the state. If you can, and are able to do it safely, I would try to manually recharge the cells, or at least bring the cells up to about 3.5 volts each. I believe the charger does check for cell balance, so if the cells are unbalanced it will also refuse to charge the battery, but try to bring the cell voltage up a little and see if that helps. In this case, you can set the power supply to a voltage of about 3.5 or 3.7 volts and follow the procedure in the video to stop charge when the current drops below 10% of the starting charge current. This is merly to help speed up the manual charge as it does take quite some time to go through all 5 banks properly. I did perform a full discharge/recharge recently on a 4Ah battery, it took less than an hour, I want to say more like 30 minutes to recharge it with the official charger, so it is defiantly faster to charge it with the official charger. Hope this helps.

@ Thank you for explaining everything so well. I will get my variable power supply very soon and try to charge it manually. I still have one more question. I have another 5Ah pack that does get recognized by OBI, On the back of the battery on the little sticker, it says BL1850B. But when I connect it to OBI it says that it has a BL1850 chip. For this reason I cannot clear any fault codes, but it only let me read the chip.

@ And yes the charger does recognize the battery, but it detects a fault in the battery. I think this has to do with the fact that the battery is over-discharged I guess.

I think the BMS should still function since it only takes about 3.3v or so to run the microcontroller. It should at least be functioning and connectable with OBI. Does OBI connect up with any other battery pack? That would be a good test. Sometimes I have found the connection to be a little flakey so it may take a few attempts to connect up. It should not be necessary to charge the battery pack for OBI to be able to connect to the microcontroller in the battery pack.

Thanks for the comment. The PCB can be commonly found on Amazon or local electronics shops (if living near one). For example just found this www.amazon.com/dp/B01J1KM3RM The other components, including resistors and connectors, can be ordered off Digikey (or Amazon). The resistors are an absolute requirement as they act as a pull up resistor for the data signal lines. Yes, the components can be soldered directly to the wires and the PCB can be omitted but I feel it is much cleaner and more reliable to do it with a PCB. This opens up the possibility of reusing this PCB on other projects down the line (if it is a close enough match). Also, I went the extra mile of purchasing the mating connectors for the connectors found in the donor charger, but these could be omitted and directly soldered as well (cutting off the existing connectors).

@@allans-workshop Thanks for the reply. All the programming set-up went smoothly for me. I have followed the schematic and done the cheaper, less parts-intensive option of just soldering directly to the wires, but I have been getting a 'failed connection' error when trying to connect to the battery. I think it might be the resistors I've used - what tolerance and wattage are the resistors you've used?

Thanks for the comment. The software (firmware) in the battery has not been flashed (changed), what is being flashed is the Arduino Uno. The Arduino Uno is acting as a protocol converter to allow the Python program on the PC to interface to the battery (and reset the lockout flag). As far as the firmware files that I flashed to the Arduino Uno, please check out the original author's project website at github.com/mnh-jansson/open-battery-information and feel free to contact them through there. There is a more user friendly solution in development and might be available now (or soon).

@@allans-workshop i have managed to flash the arduino so it can comunicate with the battery , i aslo managed to run the puthon program but it doesn't work with bl1830 batterries , its says that i can only diagnos them. So i thought that you had an undated version that can clear the errors of the battery

Це означає що ця батарея підтримує тільки діагностику

Did you press the "connect" button first? At least for me it takes a couple seconds to connect after pressing the "connect" button. Then the the "Read static data" and "Read battery data" button should become available. I was using a slightly older version in the video, I will update to the newer version and double check things.

I have the same battery too, BL1850. The reset battery and Function test options are greyed out to. On the underside of the battery it says BL1850B but the bms is an older version, that being BL1850.

@@dmytro1323G Ну так то і не проблема, що підтримує тільки діагностику!

@@Angelokrto Yes, the same with me (and my older batteries), and it is more so that these older battery packs do not have as many maintenance commands built into them. The older batteries need a slightly different approach to resetting the lockout flag which is not as trivial as just sending a reset command to the battery (like the newer ones).

Thanks for the comment. The battery will still not work in a tool (at least in my case) due to the lockout condition. However, the battery worked ok in the Makita light accessory, just not a power tool. There are three large terminal connections to the battery (positive, negative, and one other) and I believe the third connections lets the tool know if it is ok to draw power from the battery. However, it is up to the tool to obey or ignore that signal (at least on the tools that I have here). At least with the batteries that I have here, the battery will not shut off the power output when the battery should not be used, it simply provides a signal but allows the tool to handle that. Until the lockout condition can be cleared it is good to make sure the cells do not self discharge too much. If the cells are allowed to self discharge too much the cells may be irreparably damaged.

Thanks for the comment. It really is not that loud, I have it running right now. I think the video amplifies it slightly. The loudest part are the cheap fans that I have on the radiator, these can be replaced with quality fans of course. The pump is actually quite quiet and I am very happy with it. I started using the system for development and have not had any issues (or leaks) since assembling it for the video.

Thanks for the comment. Yes, this battery uses the dreaded F0513 microcontroller.

Can you share a solution to unlock this controller?​@@allans-workshop

@@АлексейГорбач-щ2е He has, with this series of videos.

uwazasz ,ze ten film to nie fake ? ja z komputerami to tak średnio ale generalnie bardzo interesuje mnie to czy ktoś w końcu odblokował tą elektronike

Це не фейк, це працює справді. OpenBatteryInformation можна встановити на windows 11

Thanks for the comment. Sorry, I do not have any personal experience with other batteries, but the author of OpenBatteryInformation I believe is planning to expand support to other batteries too. I would recommend contacting him and asking. Yes it is quite a shame that the manufactures do this to the end users. The batteries are quite expensive and such a waste when a lockout condition occurs. While it is done for safety it can be a false positive fault detection and the manufactures have chosen to error on the side of safety. It may be a money grab at the same time, if a battery is locked out it will just be thought of as damaged, tossed, and a new one bought. Such a waste of money and resources.

Thanks for the comment. Sorry but I will try to make a blog post about it later and provide some more clear details. The author of OpenBatteryInformation has an image up on his project website. The right side of the image is the top of the battery. The left side of the image is the Arduino Uno. There are two pullup resistors required (also on the schematic). github.com/mnh-jansson/open-battery-information/blob/main/docs/images/arduino-obi.png

Thanks for the comment. I think I can do a video about that, but, there is a lot of information out there that can be looked at in the mean time. Here is a simple temperature sensor example for Arduino I found. It uses a common DS18B20 sensor, and I have a few of these (and have used them). Don't recall any difficulty getting one working. randomnerdtutorials.com/guide-for-ds18b20-temperature-sensor-with-arduino/

I would like to add, the Makita interface uses something similar to OneWire, but has some differences. The example I am pointing to uses the common OneWire interface. This is a protocol developed by Dallas Semiconductor and is used in many things (including Macbook chargers).

Thanks for the comment. Basically all you would do (or I did) is pass the main.py to the python or python3 executable, assuming you have all the required libraries installed, it should open up the GUI. For me I ran it on Linux Gentoo. For example... run these commands after fetching the project from the below URL: github.com/mnh-jansson/open-battery-information/tree/main/OpenBatteryInformation cd OpenBatteryInformation python3 main.py

Thanks for the comment. The Python code is located under in the GitHub repository under the folder OpenBatteryInformation There is a link to the GitHub. github.com/mnh-jansson/open-battery-information/tree/main/OpenBatteryInformation

Thanks for the comment. This specific battery in the video is a BL1840, but I think the BL1860 may be similar (and uses same management board). Check out the Open Battery Information project for more details, but I think support is planned for as many types of batteries as possible. github.com/mnh-jansson/open-battery-information Specifically, look at the "issues" section as many people have posted information about different types of batteries. github.com/mnh-jansson/open-battery-information/issues

Yes, it is defiantly possible. The Arduino itself does not care Windows, MacOS, or Linux. The Arduino software is available for all three platforms, and once programmed the Arduino software is no longer required. However, the Python script/program is where difficulties might be encountered. By default Python is installed in Linux (since so many things rely on it) and to some extent MacOS. I thought of running it on MacOS but was not interested in "dirtying" up my MacBook with homebrew and other "stuff" so I went the Linux route. Windows does not come with Python installed by default, but it can be downloaded and installed. There are differences that will pop up including how the UART serial driver (pyserial) works between Windows and Linux, especially now ports are named. I have not personally tried it in Windows but it should mostly work (I think). Linux is installable on an external USB hard disk (or SSD) and I would recommend that if you have the time/patience to do so. I would recommend the latest stable release of Ubuntu (seems to be the most user friendly) and I think 24.04 LTS is current of this comment. You can even download a live boot USB and not install it, just boot off the live USB stick and use that (it is a fully functional OS), however, it is a read only filesystem so settings/downloads are lost on reboot. The live USB is also how installation is done, there is an install option presented on boot of the Ubuntu live USB.

​@@allans-workshop thanks

Можна це зробити на Win через exe файл, який недавно вийшов

Thanks for the comment. I was not aware there were two speeds for chargers, and surprised the rapid charger charges at 9A. The information on the cells in the battery pack that I have (two cells per bank) at 2200mA/cell manufacturer recommended charging speed, but 4400mA with two in parallel. This is the speed I manually charged the cells in a pack that the charger rejected (to keep them charged for the day I can unlock it) is 4400mA. Interesting information and I will have to probe the official charger one day when it is rapid charging a battery.

Would like to know too

The .hex file is not generally required per say it was provided as a tool to give necessary information to the author of OpenBatteryInformation located at this link below to help add support for the battery I am trying to unlock. github.com/mnh-jansson/open-battery-information As of this writing the author is busy at work on a release that will include support for this battery that I am trying to unlock. The project (including downloads of the Arduino project) can be found at the link above. This Arduino project in combination with the Python script (GUI interface) should provide the necessary tools to see battery status information and unlock batteries that have been locked out. For more information please follow the above link to download or view the "issues" section of the referenced GitHub project.

Thanks, keeping bios up to date with the new microcode releases.

Thanks, just posted video, plus channel is new. Pump was eating some tiny air bubbles caused by the return line water splashing down, hence the noise, it is on full speed too. The reservoir was a little low, but was about to drain the system. Was only on for a few seconds, to show the gunk in the CPU water block. It is super quiet now, even full speed.

and voltage!

Or heck if hes still in the return window for the motherboard and cpu, return them and swap in a 7950x or x3d variant

Yes, thank you, you are correct, I have adjusted the settings from default and following Intel recommendations as outlined below. Default BIOS settings are scary, or used to be a couple months ago before BIOS updates. Quick note, I have switched to a D5 pump and resolved many water cooling issues, that video will be posted soon, temps are so much better. The motherboard will let the CPU have whatever power it wants and literally cook itself alive. You would think the CPU would have some fail safe logic built in. Motherboard these days are capable of supplying so much more power than the CPU actually should take, and will gladly let the CPU have it and cook itself unless default settings are changed. XMP I (mine is set to 5600MHz, matches the DDR5 specifications) MultiCore Enhancement: Disabled - Enforce All Limits SVID behavior: Typical Scenario Unlimited ICCMAX: Disabled (don't let the CPU ever exceed the setting) CPU Core/Cache Current Limit Max: 400A (Intel says never exceed 400A) Long duration package power limit (PL1): 320W Package Power Time Window: 56 seconds (I don't think this matters if PL1 = PL2) Short Duration Package Power Limit (PL2): 320W The above is for "extreme" settings. I could tone these down to "performance" settings which will be the following... I think I will switch to those actually and see the performance impact. CPU Core/Cache Current Limit Max: 307A Long duration package power limit (PL1): 253W Package Power Time Window: 56 seconds (I don't think this matters if PL1 = PL2) Short Duration Package Power Limit (PL2): 253W I am continuing to follow the voltage/current issues with the 13th and 14th generation CPUs and am adjusting settings as more recommendations become available. I have watched hours of TH-cam videos about it, and read many posts/articles about the issues. I have been trying to follow Intel recommendations and specifications, which can be hard to find, but found it in this article. www.xda-developers.com/intel-says-not-to-use-baseline-profile-specifications/ This is a great video that outlines that. th-cam.com/video/tcjkNSySzsg/w-d-xo.html

@@allans-workshop Ok bud, but you should lock your p-cores or you'll regret it 100%. Screenshot this and come back when it fails if you don't lock the p-cores.

Thanks, I found some information here as well while trying to find the settings in this Asus BIOS menu. community.intel.com/t5/Processors/The-reason-behind-the-fast-13-14th-gen-i9-degrade-and-how-to/m-p/1593145 I have changed the following according to how I understand the above post, and how to lock P cores. I think I can go 59x, but not sure what the max safe setting is, lower is better, but how low? I think I need adaptive boost technology disabled or it will override these below settings? I tried running intensive tasks and I do not see any cores above 5.8GHz, ever. I can't seem to find the HyperTreading setting, or maybe it is called something else now, not sure if I should disable that as well or not. I am mostly concerned about high currents and high voltages, if I can somehow set a safe limit on VCore I would feel better. It looks like, idling in BIOS, at 58x, is 1.341V. At a 48x setting VCore was down to 1.101V. Intel Adaptive Boost Technology: Disabled Specific Performance Core + Performance Core0 Specific Ratio Limit: 58 + Performance Core1 Specific Ratio Limit: 58 + Performance Core2 Specific Ratio Limit: 58 + Performance Core3 Specific Ratio Limit: 58 + Performance Core4 Specific Ratio Limit: 58 + Performance Core5 Specific Ratio Limit: 58 + Performance Core6 Specific Ratio Limit: 58 + Performance Core7 Specific Ratio Limit: 58