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Useless comparison. If you could adapt the Contax lens on the 645 you will get the same results just because both are basically the same: just light boxes.

One has af the other not.. big differemce!!

Today we will be comparing a BMW covered in, and also partly crafted with, poop, and a factory model Porsche.

you can't be serious !!! start with a real Mamiya lens and a Mamiay 645 Pro TL and a pro photog the sharpest point of most lens two stops down . and this new era of photo bugs are more interested in a word that never existe BOKEH !! who cares about out of focus backgrounds (focus on the subjest!)

How do you wash the prints in the field?

Had an issue with mine when it auto rewound on the 11th or 12th shot on a 24 exp film. Any idea why?

Good vid... always cock and test the shutter before pulling the darkslide ;)

yea

What a great edit and what a great video.

Had a great time meeting you all! And thank you Beatrice for having our back! What a fun summary of your trip ~Nora

800T

Nice 👍🏻

entertainment at its best😮‍💨

loool

This is super interesting. Not sure I understand why you are saying it's 'inconsistent', though - it seems to be consistently over-exposing when relying on the light meter. For manual it looks like it's ok if you're metering separately.

Great work mate! What time and dilution did you use for the developer? And did you use any filter?

which of these would you recommend to someone who has shot film but not large format: 4*5, 5*7, and 8*10?

1 Buy an SX-70 Sonar. 2 Have it overhauled and converted with an SX-70 R circuit board. You end up with an SLR(!) that gives you complete control, has BT connectivity, external flash sync, works with both 70 and 600 film and more features. All for around the same price or even cheaper than the I-2. I'd rather see Polaroid spend their time on improving their film instead of cameras.

promo sm

The London Cinestill walk was utter shit, truly disappointed

Got mine a few days ago, in manual mode pictures are okay, in automatic only at -2 acceptable. With flash its different, need more (costly) trial and error. It's set on I-type film, but gives better results with sx 70 film. After Polaroid wanted to know per mail, wether I'd recommend it to friends, and I answered zero "not at all", support contacted me, and I wrote about the situation. Let's see what they answer. At a price of 600 € this is very disappointing.

Instant cameras (not instant film) were originally invented for family snaps, not for camera and film experts. They should produce good results at the press of a button. No light shielding, minimum development time, true colours and longevity. Don't ya think?!

you should calculate the exposure and cock the shut before you do the movements because the subject will likely move

dirty holder man lol

Cool! Do you preflash the paper or shoot it straight out of the box?

Good times with this video, nice finish!

that dude really likes “how dark it is”😅

Hi! Do you ever take into consideration your bellows extension? (the "bellows extension factor" which we'd usually apply to increase exposure to compensate for light loss, as in this sort of case?) I believe the rule is: more exposure must be given if your subject is *closer than 8x the focal length of the lens* (in your case: 8 x 250mm = 2000mm (which is 2 meters, therefore about 6.5 feet). This would explain why - as you had mentioned in you video - your image was "a bit underexposed". I mean, because of some latitude, it looks pretty good as it is except for some detail lost in the shadow side of your girlfriend's hair. All-in-all, bravo, though!

❤

Thanks for a honest review. There's no need for all these control with Polaroid until they don't take the time to set these better. A simpler model just gets the job done.

Это видео отличное, господа, сделайте обзор или сравнение Rolleiflex 6000 серии.

Nice 😍👌

can I ask you what made you pick the newly made large format cameras and not some old Horseman or Toyo, on something else?

Muito bom. O 500t tem um tom mais frio. O 250d tem um tem mais quente e realça bem o vermelho.

Dope video.

Thanks. Where you buy this type of backdrop ?

I am over the moon to try this soon.

Thank you for showing us the mechanics and process.

You shoot 10x8 negative then make a digital scan??!!! Also it’s well underexposed.

Thank you for your honesty

Good video but an unfair comparison because you could have at least used a native Mamiya 80mm 2.8 lens instead of the soviet lens...Better yet compare it with the Mamiya 80mm F1.9., and a more even comparison would be with the Mamiya 645AF.

Is the camera set for the right film type? It could be in SX-70 mode causing the over exposure. Or maybe you just have to use a hand held meter.

I have the I 2. Outside a minus (-) correction of either 2/3 or 1 stop works well. If you think the overexposure was 3 stops then the correction dial is not calibrated the way you assume it is. -1 does not mean -1 stop. This gives great latitude in overall control. Anyway, my results are consistently good whether I use a correction outdoors or my sekonic 308S-U and meter on manual mode. I have done direct comparisons with my Instantkon rf 70 that uses instax wide film and the primary difference is in developing time, not the vibrance or accuracy of the colors. If that was not the case a few years ago, it means that Polaroid has done a good job of improving their film. You guys should listen to all the newer youtube videos and do a new round of testing. You’ll have a lot more fun when your results are much better. The experience of shooting instant film with a camera that can be manually controlled, is unsurpassed.

The perfect camera for people who hate money

way to expensive for a broken Mamiya with a soviet lens. For the price you can find a nice Mamiya with its original lens and for a few hundreds more a more recent high end model Mamiya super, pro or AF

Han disparado sin usar el flash? Tengo una cámara réflex y planeo usar el mismo rollo que ustedes para una fiesta pero quiero saber si afecta el hecho de que no podré disparar con flash

Why I use instax pro cameras. So much better. And consistent quality

i think you should not shoot kodak vision on pns because the motor on this camera too weak to pull this film overtime it will break the motor

I’m sorry your experience was such a failure - but this is NOT an in-depth review. An in-depth review involves far more than a handful of photographs shot over a couple of sessions. I’ve had my I-2 for a few weeks and can attest to much better and consistent results than these two gentlemen. My conclusion: this camera is not for the Polaroid dilettante or casual user. It is for a serious photographer who is willing to investigate the camera and films, both of which have quirks and features. (I shoot Leica, Mamiya, Toyo LF, and Canon dSLR.) I love the way this camera and film transform “reality” into something different - photographs that are beyond merely faithful reproduction. If you can accept serendipity and trust the results to be unique, you too may find this little camera to be all I have found it (and in comparison with other high end gear, $600 for all it offers is a modest price). Happy shooting always!

did you cuys check if the camera was set to sx70 film? if only automatic shots come out over exposed that would explain it