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@@technicalvireshpatidar2750 Your data is very good. Your machine must run very easily without your finger. The flywheel must not be too heavy or too light. As I said, your description sounds very good. I'm desperate about the timing of the valve and I'm getting gray hairs. I recommend getting a blueprint from the internet or buying one and stick to the plan exactly. This saves a lot of trouble.

@@heinwonneby907 I load blue print but it won't work for me because lathe machine operator said he can't made piston with zero clearance ( good lapping ) than I deside to make by myself from scrap material thoday I updated my engine's video on my channel

@@technicalvireshpatidar2750 I'm happy that you discovered my channel. Unfortunately, I don't have enough time for model building and no talent for better explanatory videos. I can't explain why this machine runs because the flywheels are actually far too heavy.

@@technicalvireshpatidar2750 Glad you like it. If you need more information, take a look at the website www.w-haag.de and use Google translator. That always helps me. Have fun.

@@technicalvireshpatidar2750 Look up Jan Ridders on TH-cam, there are also plans for building it yourself

Moin dingdong ,klar gibts bei dem alten Rotz schwächen die kann man aber wegbasteln dann ist das Ding durchaus Alltagstauglich und macht richtig Spaß.

Yes you are right. It was total junk and has been completely rebuilt. Frame, gearbox and engine are still original. The engine has a WLA number.

@@heinwonneby907 Should start with 42WLA. There is one in New Zealand number 42WLA000001.

@@kieronoconnell2022 Wow, that would be the first model. Mine is 42 WLA58XXX. If you are interested. there is a club in England. forty fivers Motorcycle Club with members from all over the world.

@heinwonneby907 No, I d have mine anymore, but here's an interesting story. Back in about 1969-70 my brother enquired about buying an army surplus Jeep. They wrote back and replied, no he cannot buy one Jeep only. It's either 4 Jeeps, or 12 Harley Davidsons.

@@kieronoconnell2022 Very interesting. Unfortunately, those days are over and prices have exploded in recent years. A Willis from this era is my dream. There are many military vehicles from this period in Holland, France and England. There was a big meeting with the old vehicles here for D-Day.

Thanks Mate 🤟

Yesss, Thanks 🤟

Danke für das Feedback, leider spielt im Moment das Wetter nicht so mit . Aber bald.... Auch dir eine gute Saison 👍

do it. it's worth it and the fun is priceless.

Danke, liebe Grüße und schöne Feiertage 🎅

Danke dir !!! Für dich und deine Familie auch🎄🎀🎁!!!

Thanks a lot🙂

Thank you very much, here in Germany we see things differently with the volume.🫢😁

Thanks for the comment, yes the sound is great and the driving is indescribable.

Ja danke. Ne alte Technika unkaputtbar und sehr präzise.

Ciao Paolo, grazie per il bellissimo complimento. Sono abbonato a te da anni. Cordiali saluti Hein

What is that? Originally 1942😁 76 phon, no dba👍

@@heinwonneby907 i have a 41 wld with some sort of old school baffle that moves around in the muffler. Was going to cut the muffler to get it out. Then have it welded back together.

Ok, I have nothing in it. The only insulation is the narrowed exhaust, "fishtail". I don't know if it's worth opening. A silencer may have been added later.

there is actually a military version with a muffler. I didn't know that either. Maybe you installed it. the military exhaust is straight at the back. the civilian exhaust is slanted at the back.

@@heinwonneby907 im actuallly in the process of building the engine. Its going to be tricked out a little bit. Im hoping i can ger it to sound like your bike which sounds great and looks like it runs beutifly too. Parts are getting expensive and much harder to come by these days. Thanks.

The cylinder is made of honed brass and the piston is made of aluminum and ground to fit👍 Size: 15X 20mm

@@heinwonneby907 thanks

Look WhatsApp 😁

and the old lady is incontinent too😁

Thanks 😁

That's too bad. Cylinder 15mm diameter. 20mm long. 10mm stroke. Aperture 5mm diameter. Piston 15X 10mm. Those are the measurements. Compare your machine with the plans from www.w-haag.de. The piston must run very tightly in the cylinder. I hope it helps you.

@@heinwonneby907 your piston seems longer the 10mm

مترجم جوجل. الصوف الصلب. الحجم 00 الطول 3 سم. أنبوب اختبار البورسليكات. تحية من ألمانيا

Thanks a lot

Thanks for the nice comment. If I have time, I will rebuild the engine in detail with all dimensions👍

​@@heinwonneby907Hello sir, can we use metal pipe instead of glass tube? Show it in a practical way.

@technicalvireshpatidar2750 I tried. Aluminum and steel didn't work and brass and regular test tube melted. The best result was a borosilicate test tube. It's probably due to the heat distribution. When the machine runs for a few minutes, the tip of the test tube becomes ice cold. The part behind the flame in the direction of the crankshaft, however, becomes very hot.

@@heinwonneby907 ok thank you so much sir for feedback 🙏🙏🙏

@heinwonneby907 sir can we use glass perfume long bottle , or glass bottle 🍼 🍼 instead of test tube

Von Bernd. Egal, hat mich nicht überzeugt. Bin wieder bei den original Kontakten.

Nachtrag: Wenn es läuft ist es richtig gut, nur das Ankicken war die Hölle. Vielleicht war ich auch nur zu Blöd die Zündung richtig einzustellen.

@@heinwonneby907 Magneto wäre auch eine Alternative, der Nachteil: Schweine teuer! Habe aber auch gelesen, dass die original Zündspule nicht zur elektronischen Zündung passt. Da war etwas mit Widerstand der Spule. Entweder zu groß oder zu klein.

@@lutsifer5847 Danke für die Info, das mit der Spule wusste ich nicht. Mit Magneto habe ich mich auch beschäftigt, zumal die Batterie ihren Geist aufgegeben hat. Scheiterte auch an den Talern. Und wenn dann Joe Hunt, der ist nochmal 500 Schleifen günstiger als der Morris. Vielleicht ist der im nächsten Jahr drin.

Danke😁

Ja den Mann kenne ich auch sehr gut 😉👍🏻

😁

@@heinwonneby907 😉👍🏻

pretty but bitchy the old diva. Thanks mate✌️

Yes, the steel wool generates the acoustic wave in the resonator (test tube). I took the fine steel wool from a hardware store and rolled it very loosely and cut it to 3 cm with scissors.

@@heinwonneby907 alright thanks for the information. Gonna build this engine soon

@@chrismots6479 have fun✌️

Thanks for the compliment and comment. Unfortunately, I am not an inventor and not a millionaire. It was first described by Bryan Higgins in 1777. The Singing Flame. Or the Rijke tube 1859. That is the basis of this machine. A sound wave is generated on the steel wool and the acoustic wave is refracted on a pinhole and converted into kinetic energy. So thermoacoustics after all.

It is also used as a chiller. From the steel wool to the flywheel, everything gets hot. It gets freezing cold at the top of the pipe. You can find information on the web. You can find the blueprint at www.w-haag.de

Stirling engines always have 2 cylinders. 1 working cylinder and 1 displacement cylinder. th-cam.com/video/pSKL0tdWRjo/w-d-xo.html The marbles are the displacer. The working cylinder is the piece with the cooling fins

@@heinwonneby907 I agree, it's thermoacoustic indeed.

@@Afra_Lenz I'm not denying that it's producing a thermoaccoustic wave which helps push the piston however without the differential between the hot and cold sides of the engine it will not work. Maybe it should be called a thermo-accoustic stirling engine. I admit I'm merely arguing semantics. Either way it's frikking cool.

Hallo Jürgen, die Rückführ Pumpe (unten) ist kein Problem. 2 Dichtungen austauschen und fertig. Bei der Zuführpume ( Seite) musst du aufpassen, die muss richtig eingestellt werden. Und ganz wichtig ist die Dichtung am Motor , wenn die zu dünn ist , reißt du dir die Antriebszapfen ab. Lass dich da vom Fachhändler beraten.

@@heinwonneby907 Hallo Hein, vielen Dank für Deine Antwort. Es geht leider um die Zuführpumpe. Die Kugel in der Zulaufleitung hält nicht mehr ganz dicht und so spuckt mein Moped nach etwas Standzeit Öl durch die Kurbelgehäuseentlüfung. 2 dieser Kugeln lassen sich ja relativ leicht austauschen, die dritte aber muss eingestellt werden. Da gibt es ein Maß wie tief die Schraube im Gehäuse sitzen muss. Kennst Du das zufällig? Das mit der Dicke der Dichtung ist ein wichtiger Zusatzpunkt, vielen Dank. Die Teile hab ich bei w&w bestellt da dürfte die Dichtung dann passen..

@@jurgenh.86743/8" = 0,375zoll = 9,52 mm pass auf das der Schraubenzieher passt sonst beschädigst du das Gewinde.

@@heinwonneby907 Super Hein, ich danke Dir. Mach weiter solche Tutorials. Sehr sehr hilfreich 👍

@@jurgenh.8674 Vielen Dank, so nach und nach kommt noch was...

that is a good question and not an easy one for me to answer. Usually not . The test tube made of borosilicate has proven itself in this type of model construction because it can withstand extreme heat and fluctuations in pressure. It gets extremely hot from the flame to the Piston and cold to the tip of the tube. My attempts with brass and copper pipe have failed. Its melted. the tubes were 1mm thick. that's why I stayed with glass.

​@@heinwonneby907do you have an email so I can ask you questions? I am planning to follow your steps and produce this for my final year project.

Hello Tamil, remote diagnosis is very difficult. The machines look simple. It's complicated to build. All moving parts must run without friction. The piston and cylinder must be very tight. In Germany, steel wool has the number 000. That is very fine. It is loosely rolled and 3cm long. Take a look at the page: www.w-haag.de. You can translate the page with Google. Make a film and post it on TH-cam. Then you see the problem.👍

Here are a few more measures. Brass cylinder. Hole 15X20mm. Aperture 5mm. Piston aluminum. 10x15mm. Stroke 20mm. Connecting rod 60mm flywheel approx 70x5mm. Glass tube 16x 160mm. Steel wool fine 30mm. The length of the glass tube is decisive for the speed. Long = slow. Short = fast. It never works the first time.

Thank you hein I am on a school project that's why I asked you here in India I don't get steel wool that much fine enough I will follow the measurements you gave me... For the piston I don't have aluminium do you know how to make it or how to get it ....please help me bro my project just has a week of time to submit...

oh, a week is very short. I hope you can do it. It's a shame India is so far away. Please film it with your smartphone. Then you know what the machine looks like and where it is stuck. Take a look at the site of Leandro Wagner from Brazil. he builds great machines with simple material. it may help. The material of the piston does not matter. the main thing is that it runs easily and is tight. Send me a link from your film.

@@heinwonneby907 yeah sure I will try it and send you my film link soon thanks you for your idea👍

ขอบคุณ. ขอแสดงความนับถือประเทศไทย✌😎

Ja hallo, das hat sich voll gelohnt. Ich habe letztes Wochenende kotrolliert (2500km) alle Schrauben fest und Belt ok. In der selben Zeit hätte ich die Kette 3mal spannen müssen . Der Kettenkasten ist schön sauber und kein Öl unterm Moped. Kann ich also empfehlen. Also, bisher keine Wartung und auch keinen Fahrunterschied zur Kette. Ich bilde mir ein, das der Lauf ruhiger ist, auch bei hohen Geschwindigkeiten . Grüße Hein ✌

@@heinwonneby907 Wo hast du den Satz bestellt, gekauft? Hast du dazu einen Link?

@@lutsifer5847Bei Bernd, 45 Store, kannst du Googeln. Es gibt 2 verschiedene, einmal Standart, den hab ich, und einmal etwas schneller. Gut im Flachland schlecht in den Bergen. Das Ding ist jetzt 4000km gefahren . Nur noch ab und zu die Kette spannen und sonst nix. Hat sich echt gelohnt.✌